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THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 



THE BIG GAME OF 
AFRICA 



BY 
RICHARD TJADER 




WITH MANT ILLUSTRATIONS FROM 
PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR 



D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 

NEW YORK AND LONDON 

1910 



<b'^\^ 



Copyright, 1910, by 
D. APPLETON AND COMPANY 



Published November, 1910 



Printed in the United States of America 



©CLA^yg^ia 



TO 

MY DEVOTED WIFE 

THIS VOLUME IS 
DEDICATED 



INTRODUCTION 



Good books on hunting trips and adventures in the Dark Con- 
tinent are plentiful. My only apology for offering to the public 
The Big Game of Africa is my desire to comply with the wishes of 
many friends, who, having heard my lectures on Africa, have 
repeatedly asked me to issue something like them in book form. 

This volume is not only a narrative of my own wanderings and 
experiences in that continent, but is also intended to be a guide book 
to those many who are interested in the life and habits of the African 
game animals as well as in the best way of stalking these with either 
camera or gun. For in the many good books on hunting in the Dark 
Continent, little or nothing has been said that may help the would-be 
African big game hunter in the selection of the proper outfit, guns, 
cameras, curing materials, etc., nor do they give him any definite 
information as to where, when and how to secure the game he wants, 
and none of them contains the most necessary introduction to the 
Ki-Swahili language, even a slight knowledge of which will prove 
of immense help to the sportsman when hunting in British East 
Africa, German East Africa and Uganda. 

This book is the result of my own experiences and observations 
during three different expeditions to British East Africa, and con- 
tains the most reliable information I was able to obtain from other 
sportsmen and professional hunters, as well as from the wild sons 
of that wonderful game country who, themselves, spend most of 
their lives roaming around among the Big Game of Africa. 

vii 



INTRODUCTION 

If, therefore, through the following pages the reader will be 
benefited to some extent, as well as derive pleasure from the photo- 
graphs and simple accounts of big game hunting, which are related 
without exaggeration or " stretching," my labor has indeed not been 
in vain. 

R. T. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 
BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

PAGES 

General topography and climate — An enormous zoo — Bother- 
some insects — The best shooting grounds — Different game 
districts — The best hunting seasons — Present game laws — 
The big-game reserves — Different shooting licenses . 1-19 

CHAPTER H 

THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

The Safari — The Swahili language — Fitting out the caravan — 
Average expenses of a hunting trip — The useful " as- 
kari " — Human beasts of burden — The advantage of using 
porters of different tribes — The all-important headman — 
Gun-bearers — The men's " posho " — A word about horses, 
mules and donkeys — Dangers of night marching . 20-29 

CHAPTER HI 

THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

The mane of the lion — Its favorite hunting grounds — Its chief 
prey — Fight between a lion and a buffalo — How the lion 
kills its prey — Chasing the big feline on a pony — A beauti- 
ful trophy — A glorious charge — Are there different species 
of lions — The terror of the " man-eater " — Overestimated 
danger — Lion hunting on horseback — Whole " herds " of 



CONTENTS 

PAGES 

the dangerous cats — Its much-discussed roaring — A nar- 
row escape — A man-eater entering a railroad car — My first 
lion — How the savages kill the king of beasts — The uncer- 
tainty of lion-hunting 30-51 

CHAPTER IV 

THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

Different species of elephants — A real king of beasts — Won- 
derful road-makers — Their favorite resorts — The difficul- 
ties of elephant-tracking — How to single out the path of 
a " tusker " — A serious charge — Wary monsters — Bad 
cartridges — Following a wounded giant into the bush — 
A lucky elephant hunt — A terrific charge — My finest 
trophy — The eyesight of the elephant — A serious mo- 
ment — Gored by the monarch — A miraculous escape — 
Mr. Selous's tailless elephant — The native as elephant 
hunter — Fight between an elephant and a rhino — Does the 
big pachyderm lie down when sleeping? — A large herd 52-74 

CHAPTER V 

THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

The tallest living animal — The giraffe as mischief maker — An 
inhabitant of the desert — A silent sufferer — A grand old 
bull — A smitten conscience — Do lions dare to attack 
giraffes? — A " mother " defending her " baby " — Catching 
and taming the animals — Do they ever charge ? — Stalking 
the giraffe with the camera — Different species — Why the 
natives kill them — Whole herds of giraffes . . . 75-86 

CHAPTER VI 

THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HOG 

Different species — River horse or river hog? — An ugly-look- 
ing creature — The cunning of the hippo — How to secure 



CONTENTS 

PAGES 

the beast — The watchfulness of the clumsy pachyderm — 
Sometimes a dangerous enemy — Killed by a river hippo — 
The animal a menace to shipping — Declared a " vermin " 
in Uganda — Basking hippos — Stalking the river-horse 
with the camera — Watching for the carcass — A foolhardy 
swim — A trophy lost — The destructiveness of the hippo — 
Its large tusks 87-102 

CHAPTER VII 

THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

A very useful family — Different species — A grand beast — One 
of the most dangerous animals — The buffalo a very wary 
beast — A great disappointment — A successful hunt — Why 
the natives fear the buffalo — His great vitality — Recently 
declared a " vermin " in Uganda — The courage ot the 
buffalo — A lucky shot — The buffaloes increasing . 103-113 

CHAPTER VIII 

LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

Are there different species of leopards ? — The black leopard — 
Powerful and destructive beasts — Much feared by the 
natives — The leopard as man-eater and undertaker — A 
plague to the natives — More cunning than the lion — 
Native leopard traps — Catching the big cat — A long shot — 
Using the Maxim gun-silencer — A dangerous antagonist 
— Trained cheetahs for sport — The doglike animal not 
destructive — Courageous when wounded or cornered — A 
very keen-sighted animal — Asgar's cheetah chase — The 
animal partially protected 1 14-129 

CHAPTER IX 

THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

Five different species of rhino — The white and the black Afri- 
can rhino — Two different types of the black variety — 

3d 



CONTENTS 

PAGES 

Strangely shaped horns — A treacherous brute — The rhino 
bird — Interfering with railroad building — Its remarkably 
" fine nose " — Stalking rhinos with the camera — Their 
much-discussed poor eyesight — A terrible antagonist — 
On rhino trail in dense brush — An ugly charge — A lucky 
shot — The rhino's " investigations " — Its different be- 
havior — A curious charge — A successful hunt — Killed 
by a female rhino — The destructiveness of the animal — 
Nightly visits — A narrow escape — The protective " bo- 
ma " — The rhino a most dangerous beast . . . 130-151 

CHAPTER X 

THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

The characteristics of antelopes — Vast herds on the plains — 
The stately eland — Its favorite grazing grounds — A very 
wary animal, difficult to stalk — Combined meekness and 
strength of the eland — A prey unconscious of its power — 
Eland meat a delicacy — The beautiful roan — A courageous 
beast — The sable antelope, a much-coveted trophy — Rare 
in British East Africa — Fierce and dangerous when cor- 
nered — The curious gnu — Herds of countless wildebeests 
— A long shot — The gnu possesses great vitality — A 
tremendous surprise — The intelligence of the wildebeests 

152-172 

CHAPTER XI 

THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES (Continued) 

The magnificent greater kudu — Hard to secure in British East 
Africa — Stalking the kudu with camera — The water 
buck — A new subspecies, the " Cobus defassa tjaderi " — 
The beautiful impalla — Its marvelous leaps and great 
vitality — Impalla meat not fit for the table — The lovely 
oryx — An interesting hunt — The oryx one of the most 
courageous antelopes — The beautiful Grant's gazelle — Its 
meat very palatable — The splendid little antelopes too 
much pursued 173-191 

xii 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XII 
THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

PAGES 

The hartebeest a very ugly-looking animal — Different species — 
A fine Jackson's hartebeest — The inquisitive kongoni — • 
A nuisance to the hunter — Common lion food — A very 
keen-sighted and wary animal — Caravan lost and found 
— The beautiful zebra — Three varieties existing — The 
Grevy's and Burchell's zebra — The latter the most com- 
mon wild animal in British East Africa — Enormous zebra 
herds — They are stupid and forgetful — Very fond of 
water — Stampeding zebras — The animal's commercial 
value — Is now purposely being exterminated for its de- 
structiveness 192-210 

CHAPTER XIII 

HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

The repulsive hyena — Spotted and striped varieties — Hyenas 
not exclusively scavengers — The beasts as man-eaters — 
They often hunt in broad daylight — Hyenas as under- 
takers — Their hideous howl — A cornered hyena — The 
monkey family — Their destructiveness to crops and gar- 
dens — The beautiful colobus — Performing monkeys — An 
all-white colobus — This species never seen in menageries — 
The ugly baboons — Easily tamed — The giant pig — The 
hideous wart hog — The mischievous bush pig . . 211-226 

CHAPTER XIV 

AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

The deadly puflf adder — Curious way of attacking its enemies 
or prey — Puff-adder poison for savages' arrow points — 
The powerful python — A monarch among snakes — Step- 
ping on a python — The big reptile a good tree climber — 

xiii 



CONTENTS 

PAGES 

Other poisonous snakes — The dangerous crocodile — ^A 
crocodile killing a rhino — ^When they turn man-eaters — 
The monster fond of birds — The danger of crossing rivers 
where there are many crocodiles — How to cross in safety 
• — The giant bustard — The now protected ostrich — Mil- 
lions of guinea fowl — Great numbers of geese, ducks, 
flamingoes and other birds 227-244 

CHAPTER XV 

THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

The Bantu negro — The Swahili tribe — How they build their 
houses — The coast people's dress — " Lazy, lying thieves " 
— The intoxicating palm wine — Buying wives on the 
installment plan — The Wanika — The Wateita — Scaring 
away the " rain gods " — Wonderful deliverance — The 
Wakamba — Their deadly arrow poison — The promising 
Kikuju tribe — Extremely fond of all kinds of ornaments — 
A Kikuju romance — The powerful Masai — Their uncer- 
tain origin — Their strange houses — The El-Moran — The 
wild Wanderobo — The best native animal trackers — The 
industrious Kavirondo — Their nude but chaste women — 
People with " tails " — ^A superstitious people in a rich 
country . ' 245-261 

CHAPTER XVI 

MISSIONARIES, SETTLERS, AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

Characteristics of the natives — Cruel customs — Degraded 
womanhood — Africa's need of mission work — Globe trot- 
ters' criticism of foreign missions — The settlers' attitude — 
Unscrupulous whites — Mission work as seen by rulers 
and statesmen — Inefficient missionaries — Sir Harry John- 
ston's testimony about Uganda — Offensive settlers — High- 
class officials — The truth about " mission boys " — The 
hope of Africa 262-274 

xiv 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER XVII 

HINTS ON AFRICAN PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE PRESERVING 

OF TROPHIES 

PAGES 

The importance and pleasure of wild-animal photography — 
Great patience and skill required — A rather dangerous 
undertaking — What cameras to take — The telephoto ap- 
paratus — American or foreign makes? — Underexposing 
general in the beginning — The advisability of taking films 
or plates — The developing machines — How to skin an 
animal properly — The most necessary measurements — 
Different ways of curing the skins — Various kinds of 
trophies — Our obligations to science and coming genera- 
tions 275-286 

CHAPTER XVIII 

GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

A sufficient yet not too bulky outfit — The all-important tent — 
Necessary provisions — Practical hunting clothes — Boots 
and leggings — Underclothes and stockings — Camp furni- 
ture — Cooking utensils — The emergency tent — The best 
armament — Small or big bore guns? — The telescope and 
the gun silencer — The shotgun — Ways of reaching 
Mombasa . 287-298 

CHAPTER XIX 

RETROSPECT AND CONCLUSION 

Ex-President Roosevelt on big game hunting in British East 
Africa — Is the big game threatened with extermination? — 
The native as big game hunter — Firearms and natives — 
Many hunting parties — Three good rules for sportsmen — 
The characteristic game of plains, bush, and forest — The 
probable future of East Africa as a big game country — 
The charm of the chase 299-305 

XV 



CONTENTS 



APPENDIX 



PAGES 

I The Ki-Swahili Language 307-333 

II Key to the Exercises 334-342 

III SwahiH-English Vocabulary 343-356 

INDEX . 357-364 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 

Richard Tjader Frontispiece ^ 

Map of the hunting district, drawn by the author ... i 

Camp of the Tjader East African expedition, 1906, at Solai, 

B. E. A 24 ^' 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

The advance guard of a caravan crossing a river on the way to 

Sotik 24 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Young lion walking toward the camera . . , . . 32 •' 

Courtesy of Mrs. Caveth. 

Lioness killed on the Athi Plains 32 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Large, black-maned lion killed on the Sotik Plain, May, 1909 38 ^' 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Large, black-maned lion killed on the Sotik Plain, May, 1909 38 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

The lioness which almost killed the author . . . . 46 - 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

A fine specimen 46 

Elephants coming through high bush and elephant grass . 64 • 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

A splendid trophy: a big bull elephant killed near the Gojito 

Mountains, 1906 64 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Large bull giraffe, shot through the heart near Maungu R.R. 

station 78 *^ 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

2 xvii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



FACING 
PAGE 



Bull giraffe in the Mimosa Jungle on Laikipia .... 78 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Hippo heads showing above the surface of the water in the 

Sondo River 94 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Sleeping hippos in the Tana River not far from Fort Hall . 94 

Sleeping hippo photographed close to the Sondo River, 1909 . 96^ 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 
Hunting leopard killed by a shotgun with No. B. B. . . 96 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

A magnificent bull buffalo killed in the Kedong Valley . . 106'' 

Courtesy of Mrs. N. Carveth. 
Large head of the ordinary water buck, Cobus defassa . . 106 

Photograph by H. Lang. 
Wounded leopard on the Sotik Plains 120 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 
Young male leopard 120 

Courtesy of W. P. Ingall, 
Two rhinos asleep on the plains to the northwest of Guaso 

Narok, distance about forty yards 132 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

The same animals. Note the tick birds on the backs of the 

beasts 132 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

The same animals. The one facing the camera is about to 

charge at full speed 134 

At about ten yards he fell, killed instantly by a bullet from the 

big -577 Express rifle 134 

Two different types of rhinos; the upper one represents the 

bush rhino, the lower one the rhino of the plains . . 146 
Photograph by H. Lang. 
Another splendid trophy 146 

Ordinary bush buck, shot on Aberdare Mountains . . .154 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Head of new variety of bush buck called " Tragelaphus 

tjaderi" 154 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

xviii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 
PAGE 

Head of a large bull eland i6o 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

Wounded roan antelope just before the last charge. Shot 

near Muhoroni R.R. station i6o 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Wounded sable antelope i66. 

Courtesy of IV. P. Ingall. 

Small herd of wildebeests, the white-bearded gnu, Sotik, 1909 166 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Male water buck, killed on Laikipia. Found to be a new sub- 
species of the defassa . family and subsequently called 

" Cobus defassa tjaderi " 178 

Camera snapped by the author's gun bearer. 

3emi-tame female water buck near the Sotik Plains . . 178 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Splendid impalla from Laikipia 182 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Head of large bull oryx 182 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

Fine head of the graceful Grant's gazelle 188 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

iVounded Grant's gazelle fighting Mabruki, the gun bearer . 188 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Beautiful head of the Grant's gazelle 194 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

\n exceptionally fine head of Jackson's hartebeest, shot near 

Lake Hannington 194 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

^erd of zebra, just entering a forest on Kenia . . . 204 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Wounded zebra 204 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Hyena at bay 216 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Flead of large wart hog shot in the Kedong Valley . . . 216 
Courtesy of Mrs. Caveth. 

xix 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING 
PAGE 

Ordinary colobus monkeys 220 

Two white colobus monkeys. Both secured on Kenia . . 220 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

The deadly puff adder 230 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Iguana, the largest of African lizards 230 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

Chameleon, which certainly possesses protective coloration . 234 
Photograph by H. Lang. 

A three-horned, small, tree lizard 234 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

Crocodile shot at Lake Hannington 238 

Photograph by H. Lang. 

Buzzards in the act of getting on the remains of a hartebeest . 238 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Five ostriches running away at high speed at some three hun- 
dred yards 240 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Huge marabou stork 240 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

A pair of flamingoes 242 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Photographing a charging animal 242 

Photograph snapped by the gun bearer. 

Typical SwahiH house on the coast 248 

Hut of the Njamus-Masai near Baringo 248 

A young Wanderobo ready to shoot his poisoned arrow . . 258 
Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Masai El-Moran warriors 258 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

Some of the author's trophies at Kijabi R.R. station in 1906 282 
Photograph by H. Lang. 

Author's " lion camp " on the Sotik 282 

Photograph by R. Tjader. 

XX 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 



CHAPTER I 

BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

British East Africa being not only the best country 
in the world for big game hunting, the size of the animals, 
and the multitude of the different species considered, but 
also of all big game countries by far the healthiest and 
most easily reached, I shall in the following chapters deal 
exclusively with that country, its climate, topography, sea- 
sons, game, and natives. 

Barring the low and unhealthy coast belt on the Indian 
Ocean, where no game worth shooting exists (with the 
exception of elephants, having small tusks of comparatively 
poor quality, buffaloes, with not nearly as fine heads as 
their upland kinsfolk, and the beautiful sable antelope), the 
greater part of the Protectorate has a healthful climate. 
But the sable antelope, which many hunters class as the 
finest of the antelopes, exists in British East Africa, alas! 
only on and around the Shimba Hills, not very far from 
Mombasa. Yet even this stately antelope develops here 
horns that cannot be compared with those from other 
inland places, as, for instance, German East Africa and 
farther south. 

From the narrow coast belt the Uganda Railroad be- 
gins to climb the inland plateaus and soon reaches an alti- 
tude of 1,830 feet at Voi, 5,250 feet at Matchakos, and 

I 



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?.^ .^z£^^ ^s ,u*^ 



anda Railros 
r^and soon reaches ai 
5,250 feet at Matchako; 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

5,450 feet above the level of the sea at Nairobi, the gov- 
ernment headquarters, and now, in spite of its youth, the 
most important town in the Protectorate. From Nairobi 
the climb continues, and at beautiful Lake Naivasha the 
station lies at an altitude of 6,230 feet, while at a place 
on top of the Mau escarpment the railroad reaches its high- 
est point. A large signboard is placed here on the north 
side of the railway with the inscription : " Summit ; alti- 
tude 8,320 feet." From here the country gradually falls 
away toward the great Victoria Nyanza, where the 
Kisumu railway station lies at an altitude of only 3,650 
feet. 

The rainfall of British East Africa naturally varies 
considerably, as the country differs so widely in altitude 
and general aspect. The latest statistics show an average 
rainfall of 14.78 inches at Kismayu, on the coast, 73.93 
inches at Molo railroad station, from over 80 inches at 
Kericho down to 38.86 at Nairobi; but on the big moun- 
tains, like the Aberdare range. Mount Elgon, and the 
magnificent, snowclad Kenia, the rainfall sometimes even 
exceeds 100 inches a year. j 

The best and most popular hunting grounds lie to the 
northeast, north, northwest, and southwest of Nairobi at 
altitudes varying from 4,500 to 7,000 feet, and can, there- 
fore, with ordinary precautions, be said to be perfectly 
healthy. Take, for instance, the great Athi plains, north- 
east of Nairobi. There large herds of zebra, hartebeest, 
Grant's and Thomson's gazelles may still be seen even 
from the railroad, with occasional glimpses of the lion, 
rhino, eland, and giraffe. Here the hunter seldom sees a 
mosquito, and if he always has the water boiled before 

2 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

drinking it, and is careful not to sit around in wet clothes 
in the evening, he has no reason to fear any attack of 
malarial fever. 

The only insects that are bothersome on these plains 
are the ticks, with which the sportsman becomes literally 
covered from morning to night. Fortunately these ticks, 
although extremely disagreeable, do not seem to cause 
any " tick fever," as the dangerous Uganda ticks do. 
Another very unpleasant experience that many have had 
on these plains is to be attacked by the hardly noticeable 
little sand fly, or " funza," the special trick of which is to 
work its way in under some toe nail, and there, without 
the knowledge of the toe's owner, deposit a great number 
of eggs. As soon as this is done, itching generally sets in, 
and a slight inflammation becomes noticeable, which in- 
stantly should be followed by an " operation," generally 
performed to perfection by the Swahili " boys," who, with 
a needle, dig out the flea and scoop out the eggs, which 
otherwise, if hatched, would cause serious trouble, and 
sometimes even loss of the toe. 

By being careful to wash my feet every evening, never 
to walk around, even on the tent's ground cloth, with bare 
feet, and using pajamas with " stocking extensions," I 
fortunately escaped this unpleasant experience. But some 
people I met, who had been hunting on these plains, had 
tales of misery to tell about their contact with the " funza." 
An American hunter, whom I saw in Nairobi, late in 1909, 
told me that he had not been able to walk properly for 
several weeks after such an " attack," as the " opera- 
tion " had been performed rather late, and perhaps not as 
thoroughly as necessary. 

3 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

As there is nothing in the way of game on these plains 
that the hunter may not secure more easily, and that with 
better horns and finer manes in other, much healthier 
places, there is no necessity to hunt here, where the ani- 
mals are much more shy than almost anywhere else in 
the Protectorate, because so often molested by people from 
near-by Nairobi. Besides this, there is very little genuine 
" sport " in such hunting, or, let me say, killing of game 
on the Athi plains, for hunting in its true sense includes 
skillful and difficult tracking and stalking, of which there 
can be ho question here. Let me explain without exagger- 
ation how most men " hunt " on these plains. 

With a couple of gun bearers and a few porters to carry 
the meat and trophies back to camp, the newcomer starts 
out from his camp generally not very early in the morning. 
Soon he sees in front of him a herd of zebra and harte- 
beest, often feeding together. They are calmly grazing 
at a distance of six to seven hundred yards. As there are 
no trees for cover, not even an ant-hill to stalk behind, he 
simply marches on, making straight for the animals. Sud- 
denly, one of the more watchful hartebeests notices him 
and, as at a word of command, the whole herd swings 
around and faces him for a moment, the zebra looking par- 
ticularly pretty, as their shining black and white stripes 
alternately appear in the sunlight or the shadow. 

There are still over five hundred yards to the herd, 
and carefully the hunter pushes on. The next moment, 
however, the herd turns with jumps and all kinds of queer 
antics, and off they go at a gallop for a couple of hundred 
yards or more. Then they stop, some begin to graze again, 
while one or two seem to be keeping a sharp lookout for 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

the queer-looking, two-legged intruders. After this ma- 
neuver has been repeated a few times, the " sportsman " 
may succeed in getting up to within two or three hundred 
yards and, being disgusted with the chase, begin to empty 
his magazine at the herd in the attempt to bring down some 
of the animals. A young German lieutenant with whom 
I traveled back from Africa in 19 lo told me unblushingly 
that he in such a way, and by firing not less than one hun- 
dred and ten shots, had one day on the Athi plains killed 
only three animals — one zebra, one hartebeest, and one 
Grant's gazelle ! But he did not tell me how many unfor- 
tunate animals he may have wounded more or less se- 
verely ! This he was naive enough to call " great sport." 

One of the most interesting hunting trips is the Kenia- 
Laikipia tour. Laikipia is a high plateau at about 7,000 
feet altitude, mostly well watered from lovely streams, run- 
ning down from Kenia and the Aberdare Mountains, and 
having a climate as nearly perfect for a hunting trip as 
it is possible to imagine. Only during the noon hours, 
from eleven to two, the sun is rather hot, the plateau 
lying exactly on the line of the equator, but the heat is not 
strong enough to prevent a healthy man from enjoying the 
following up of his prey even during that time. The rest 
of the day, both mornings and afternoons, is ideal. 

The tour to this plateau can from Nairobi be com- 
fortably made in from four to six weeks, but there is game 
enough, as to quantity as well as to the value of the tro- 
phies, to warrant the spending of two months or more in 
these beautiful regions. The mosquito is practically un- 
known, there are no ticks of any kind, the " funza " is 
nonexistent, and the water of the very best. 

5 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

If the hunter starts out from Nairobi, going by way of 
the government station Fort Hall, he can begin his shoot- 
ing within an hour after he has left the hotel in Nairobi 
with his " safari," for all along the route are seen the 
zebra, Coke's hartebeest. Grant's and Thomson's gazelles, 
many of the smaller antelopes, and sometimes even wilde- 
beests. Then when, near Fort Hall, the Tana River is 
reached, the safari may follow that stream down for an 
hour or two to some fine camping grounds among large 
mimosa trees, and here the sportsman will be able to shoot 
hippos and crocodiles to his heart's content. 

Then continuing the northward march, the caravan 
passes the fort, or " boma," the native name for all mili- 
tary and government stations, where the hunter generally 
pays his respects to the Provincial Commissioner, who 
may require him to show his game license and the special 
permit to proceed farther, as the Kenia-Laikipia is one of 
the " closed " districts, for which such a permit is a neces- 
sity. From the boma the safari proceeds along a fairly 
good native path, which in a few days' time leads up among 
the foothills of the magnificent, snowclad Kenia, which 
rears its domelike peak over eighteen thousand feet high. 
Now the sportsman may at any time come across fresh ele- 
phant tracks, or meet with buffalos, eland, bush buck, with 
luck, even the coveted bongo, impalla, water buck, and in a 
day or two more with the beautiful oryx beisa, wild dogs, 
possibly giraffes, plenty of rhinos, lions, and leopards, while 
higher up on the foothills the hunter may bag with ease his 
allowed number of the beautiful colobus and other fur 
monkeys, if monkey killing does not seem to him too much 
like " murder.'* So day after day the party may go on, 

6 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

finding big game everywhere, including the Grevey's zebra 
in the country northwest of Kenia and near the lovely river 
Guaso Narok at its junction with the Guaso Nyiro, to the 
north of which junction the northern game reserve begins. 
Turning thence upstream on the right bank of the Guaso 
Narok, the path takes the safari back again toward civili- 
zation, returning to the railroad by another also very inter- 
esting route. 

On this beautiful Laikipia plateau there are scattered 
a good many Masai villages, or " manyata," where it is 
possible to obtain fresh, fine milk for trade goods, such 
as "Americano" (a kind of unbleached muslin), brass 
wire, glass beads, or, nowadays, also for money. All along 
the river to the north, at a distance varying from half a 
mile to two miles from the river bed, there are large 
plains, extending from rather abrupt bluflfs from the river 
valley for miles and miles inland, dotted here and there 
with single good-sized trees, or clumps of the thorny 
mimosa. 

These highlands seem to be the favorite play and feed- 
ing grounds of countless rhinos, which, if one is carefully 
observing the wind, and using some cover, can be ap- 
proached to within thirty yards and less before they either 
run away or else, like the Chinese, take exception to 
being photographed and stared at, and with " pufifs " and 
" snorts," with lowered horns and uplifted tails, charge 
down on the intruders. On these plains, where often also 
eland, oryx, and girafifes are seen, I once met not less than 
eleven rhinos within one hour, mostly in pairs of male and 
female or female and young. I was fortunate enough to 
secure some good photographs of them, but although not 

7 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

intending to shoot any at that time, I finally had to kill a 
charging bull, whom I had given a chance to save his life 
by " changing his mind," mitil he was within ten yards of 
my camera. What happened then will be later described 
in the chapter on rhinos. 

Following the Guaso Narok farther up, the path leads 
to a very large swamp, formed by the river and all over- 
grown with papyrus. Toward the northwest end of this 
swamp is a Protestant American mission station, where in 
1909 Mr. and Mrs. Barnett and two fellow-laborers were 
doing a splendid work among the Masai people. They 
were highly commended by the British Commissioner of 
that district for their untiring efforts for the betterment of 
the natives. 

At the extreme western end of this large and, strange 
enough, not unhealthy swamp, lies the government 
boma Rumuruti, where Mr. Collyer, a most able and 
kind-hearted official, in 1909-10 represented the British 
Government in the Laikipia Masai reserve. By the time 
this appears in print, the Masai of this reservation may 
have been already shifted away to join the rest of their 
tribe in the southern Kedong Valley and the Sotik and 
Loita plains, and the Laikipia plateau opened up for 
white settlements. This would mean, as everywhere else 
where the white man settles, the diminishing, and finally 
the complete disappearance, of the big game from the 
district. 

' From Rumuruti there are three paths to take. One 
goes in a north-northwest direction down toward Baringo, 
a lake swarming with crocodiles and hippos, but as this is 
one of the most unhealthy parts of British East Africa, 

8 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

and as there are no special animals to hunt, except the 
magnificent greater kudu, which at present is wholly pro- 
tected by the law, it is hardly worth while to take the risk 
of hunting in this district, where, besides, the water is 
poor and the heat great, for the land lies more than fif- 
teen hundred feet lower than the surrounding plateaus. 

Another path follows the lovely Guaso Narok up- 
stream for a couple of days more. It afterwards descends 
into the upper Rift Valley, leading thence into the Nakuru 
railroad station, from which the hunter in from seven to 
eight hours may return to Nairobi by train which runs 
three times a week. 

The third path, along which there is shooting all the 
way, runs in a more southwesterly direction along the 
northern slopes of the Aberdare Mountains. From here 
it suddenly drops down to the swamplike lake Ol-Bolos- 
sat, around which lions are often found. Thence the path 
goes over the extreme northern part of the Naivasha pla- 
teau, full of zebra and Jackson's hartebeest, and finally 
ends at the Gilgil station, one hour and a half nearer by 
railroad to Nairobi than Nakuru. 

The animals which the sportsman with ordinary luck 
may bag on such a Kenia-Laikipia tour during four to 
eight weeks are the following: Coke's hartebeest, zebra 
(Burchell's and Grevey's), crocodile, hippo, buffalo, ele- 
phant, eland, oryx (beisa), rhino, water buck, bush buck, 
bongo, impalla, giraffe. Grant's and Thomson's gazelles, 
wart hog, bush pig, lion, leopard, hyena, serval, jackal, colo- 
bus monkey, baboon, Jackson's hartebeest, and a good 
many smaller antelopes, as well as any amount of guinea 
fowl, wild geese, partridges, and quail. This, together 

9 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

with the fine climate and splendid water, makes the Kenia- 
Laikipia trip one of the most enjoyable and profitable hunt- 
ing excursions in the world. 

Another interesting tour can be made by going to the 
Guas Ngishu plateau. This trip takes longer time and 
costs a great deal more, and as these regions have lately 
been partly settled with hundreds of South African Boers, 
and much shot over by hunting parties, the game there is 
becoming extremely wary and shy. One of the last hunt- 
ers to return from this part of British East Africa in 1909 
told me that he was greatly disappointed with the results 
of his long and expensive safari. He had seen compara- 
tively little game, and the elephants he encountered near 
Mount Elgon were mostly cows and young bulls, not worth 
shooting at. 

It was to this part of Africa that the famous hunter 
Mr. F. C. Selous went on his last trip for the main pur- 
pose of securing a large, black-maned lion. Unfortunately, 
the great hunter did not even see a single lion during all 
the weeks spent on the plateau, although he was able to 
enrich his wonderful museum at Worpleston, not far from 
London, with a few new species of antelopes. The climate 
of the Guas Ngishu is delightful, the altitude ranging from 
seven thousand to eight thousand feet, and the water is 
plentiful and good. 

Another " Eldorado " for the big-game hunter in Brit- 
ish East Africa are the Sotik and Loita plains, southwest 
of Nairobi. They seemed to have been actually infested 
by lions, which here feed leisurely on the countless herds 
of zebra, hartebeest, and gnu that cover the plains and 
the near-by hills, for during the last fifteen months over 

10 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

one hundred and sixty lions have been shot there. One 
sportsman was lucky enough to kill twenty-one in two 
weeks, and not less than six in one single day, including 
three half-grown cubs ! 

These healthy, game-filled plains, lying at an altitude 
of over five thousand feet, are most easily reached by 
taking the train to Kijabe station, about three hours north- 
west of Nairobi, and either marching from there through 
the Rift Valley over the Mau escarpment, here more than 
eight thousand feet high, then across the Guaso Nyiro 
South on to the plains, or using hired South African ox 
wagons from Kijabe, which must be arranged for in 
advance through one of the Nairobi firms. 

If the start is made from Kijabe during or right after 
the big rainy season, or, say, about the end of April or 
beginning of May, it is easy to reach these wonderful 
plains by regular marches with the caravan. But during 
the dry season this is impossible, as then all the little 
streams and water holes between Kijabe and the next large 
stream, on the western slopes of the Mau escarpment, are 
dry, and for from two to three days no water can be 
found. On one of my safaris the whole caravan of one 
hundred and seventeen men almost perished from thirst, 
when we were trying to penetrate to the Guaso Nyiro 
South during the dry season. But if ox wagons are se- 
cured, they are loaded up with enough water for men and 
beasts, until the last-named river is reached. On the plains 
themselves there are, fortunately, a few springs and water 
holes that never dry up, and it is often around these that 
the hunter secures a great deal of game of various kinds. 
He may bag lion, wildebeest, hartebeest, zebra, rhino, 

II 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

leopard, eland, giraffe, the beautiful topi, impalla, Grant's 
gazelle, and a number of small antelopes, wart hogs, and 
hyenas. 

By going a few days in a west-northwest direction the 
safari reaches the Kisii country, where elephants, buffa- 
loes, and even roan antelopes, as well as hippos, bush and 
reed bucks can be had. From there the caravan generally 
emerges out of the jungle either by marching to Kisumu, 
on the Victoria Nyanza, or by returning via the Kericho 
boma to the Lumbwa railroad station. Such a tour of 
both Sotik and Kisii can be easily made in from six weeks 
to three months, and is among the very finest hunting 
trips imaginable. The climate is good and healthy until 
the party reaches the country near the great lake, where 
special care has to be taken in regard to malaria mos- 
quitoes and the deadly sleeping-sickness fly. But by re- 
turning from the Kisii forest by way of Kericho and 
Lumbwa one escapes these latter two evils entirely. 

Great care should also be taken in providing for 
enough food, or " posho," for the men during this trip, 
as it is very hard to secure any new supply after leaving 
the railroad until the Kisii boma is reached, which may 
take from three to five weeks, according to the time spent 
on and around the Sotik and Loita plains. 

Many other good hunting grounds may be mentioned 
here, such as, for instance, the partly waterless Seringetti 
Plains, between Voi station and the big snow mountain 
Kilimanjaro. Then the half-opened bush country near the 
stations Simba, Sultan Hamud, and Muhuroni, near which 
last-named place the beautiful roan antelope may be easily 
bagged. But none of these places begin to compare with 

12 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

the before-named districts either in regard to healthfulness 
of climate or variety and abmidance of game. 

British East Africa is supposed to have four different 
seasons: December, January, and February, the dry, hot 
season, the East African summer; March, April, and the 
half of May, the heavy rainy season ; end of May to Septem- 
ber, the long dry, or " winter " season, and then again Oc- 
tober and November the " small rains." But the seasons 
have for the last years been most irregular. The only 
really unpleasant months to be out on safari in British East 
Africa are March and April, when there is pouring rain 
everywhere and almost every day. 

The height of the nowadays quite fashionable shooting 
season is from October to February, when it is safe to 
say that dozens of hunting parties are out in the field ; but 
the pleasantest time for shooting tfrips is, without ques- 
tion, from May to October, when comparatively few hunt- 
ers are in the land, owing to the social summer seasons 
in Europe and America. During that time it is much 
cooler, and the sportsman is not so likely to run across 
another safari when in the field. It is then also much 
easier to secure good porters, guides, and horses than 
at the height of the season, when *' everybody " comes. 
I myself have tried both seasons, and should I go back 
again would certainly choose our summer for the sojourn 
in British East Africa. 

The game laws of British East Africa have recently 
been materially changed, and are now not as liberal to the 
hunter as in the years gone by. For thorough information 
I have copied below the exact rendering of the new law 
of December, 1909, as recorded in the Official Gazette. 
3 13 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Only such paragraphs as deal directly with the sports- 
man who visits the country for shooting are included; 
all other matter is omitted : 

GAME LICENSES 

1 6. (a) The following licenses may be granted by a 
Provincial Commissioner or a District Commissioner or 
by such other person as may be authorized by the Governor 
on the behalf, that is to say: 

A Sportsman's License. 
A Resident's License. 
A Traveler's License. 
A Landholder's License. 

(b) The following fees shall be paid for licenses: For 
a Sportsman's License, 750 rupees ; ^ for a Resident's Li- 
cense, 150 rupees; for a Traveler's License, 15 rupees; and 
for a Landholder's License, 45 rupees. 

(c) A Sportsman's License, a Resident's License, and 
a Landholder's License shall be in force for one year from 
the date of issue. A Traveler's License shall be in force 
for one month from the date of issue. 

18. A Sportsman's License and a Resident's License, 
respectively, shall authorize the holder to hunt, kill, or 
capture animals of any of the species mentioned in the 
Third Schedule, but not more than the number of each 
species fixed by the second column of that schedule. 

24. {a) A Provincial or District Commissioner may, 
on the application of the holder of a Sportsman's or Resi- 
dent's License, grant a Special License authorizing such 
person to hunt, kill, or capture either one or two elephants 
as the application shall require and as shall be specified 



' There are exactly three rupees to one dollar of United States currency. 

14 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

therein. Such Special License shall not authorize the 
holder to hunt, kill, or capture any elephant having tusks 
weighing less than thirty pounds each. 

(b) There shall be paid for such Special License the 
fees following : 

For a license to hunt, kill, or capture 

one elephant 150 rupees. 

For a license to hunt, kill, or capture 

two elephants 450 rupees.^ 

33. No license granted under this ordinance shall en- 
title the holder to hunt, kill, or capture any animal or to 
trespass on private land without the consent of the owner 
or occupier. 

First Schedule 

Animals not to be hunted, killed, or captured by any 
person except under Special License : 

Elephant, girafife, greater kudu bull (in the District 
of Baringo), greater kudu (female), buffalo (cow), Neu- 
mann's hartebeest in the area (2) of this schedule; eland 
in the following areas : 

(i) An area bounded on the south by a line drawn 
from Kiu Station due east to the western boundary of 
Machakos Native Reserve to a point where the Athi River 
enters the said reserve, thence by the Athi River to a point 
due north of Donyo-Sabuk, thence by a line drawn direct 
to Fort Hall, on the north by the Nairobi-Fort Hall main 
road, on the west by the Uganda Railway. 

(2) The Rift Valley south of Lake Baringo. 

(3) Guas Ngishu plateau south of the Nzoia River. 

* It is also provided for that if the sportsman takes out this Special License to 
kill two elephants, but fails to do so, the government refunds him three hundred 
rupees, but not more. 

15 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Roan (female), roan (male), in areas (i) and (2) of 
this schedule, sable (female), rhinoceros (on the northeast 
side of the Uganda Railway and within ten miles thereof 
between Sultan Hamud and Machakos Road Station), 
vulture (any species), owl (any species), hippopotamus 
(in lakes Naivasha, Elmenteita, and Nakuru), fish eagle. 

Second Schedule 

Animals, the females of ivliich are not to be hunted, 
killed, or captured when accompanying their young, and 
the young of which are not to be hunted, killed, or captured 
except under Special License: 

Rhinoceros, hippopotamus, all antelopes and gazelles 
mentioned in any schedule. 

Third Schedule 

Animals, a limited number of which may be killed or 
captured under a Sportsman's or Resident's License: 

Buffalo (bull), 2; rhinoceros, except as provided in the 
First Schedule, 2 ; hippopotamus, except as provided in the 
First Schedule, 2; eland, except as provided in the First 
Schedule, i ; zebra (Grevey's), 2; zebra (common), 20; 
oryx (callotis), 2; oryx (beisa), 4; water buck (of each 
species), 2 ; sable antelope (male), i ; roan antelope (male), 
except as provided in the First Schedule, i ; greater kudu 
(male), except as provided in the First Schedule, i ; lesser 
kudu, 4; topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland, and Loita Plains), 
8; Coke's hartebeest, 20; Neumann's hartebeest, except as 
provided in the First Schedule, 2; Jackson's hartebeest, 4; 
Hunter's antelope, 6; Thomas's kob, 4; bongo, 2; palla, 
4; sitatunga, 2; wildebeest, 3; Grant's gazelle, four vari- 
eties, typicus, notata, Bright's, and Robertsi, of each, 3; 
Waller's gazelle (generuk), 4; Harvey's duiker, 10; 

16 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

Isaac's duiker, lo; blue duiker, lo; Kirk's dikdik, lo; 
Guenther's dikdik, lo; Hinde's dikdik, lo; Cavendish's 
dikdik, lo; Abyssinian oribi, lo; Haggard's oribi, lo; 
kenya oribi, lo; " suni " (Nesotragus moschatus), lo; 
klipspringer, lo; Ward's reed buck, lo; " Chanler's reed 
buck, lo; Thomson's gazelle, lo; Peter's gazelle, lo; 
Soemmerring's gazelle, lo; bush buck, lo; bush buck 
(Haywood's), lo; colobi monkeys, of each species, 6; mar- 
about, 4 ; egret, of each species, 4. 

Fourth Schedule 

Animals, a limited number of which may be killed or 
captured on a Traveler's License : 

Zebra, 4. The following antelopes and gazelles only: 
Grant's gazelle, Thomson's gazelle, Jackson's and Coke's 
hartebeest, palla, reed buck, klipspringer, steinbuck, wilde- 
beest, paa (Medoqua and Nesotragus), oryx beisa, bush 
buck. Waller's gazelle, topi (in Jubaland, Tanaland, and 
Loita Plains). 

Five animals in all, made up of a single species or of 
several; provided, however, that not more than one of 
each of the following may be shot on one license : 

Grant's gazelle, palla, wildebeest, oryx beisa, bush buck. 
Waller's gazelle, topi, Jackson's hartebeest. 

Fifth Schedule 
(game reserves) 

(Caravans with guns are not even allowed to pass 
through these. — Ed.) 

I. The Southern Reserve. 

An area bounded by a line following the right bank of 
the Ngong River from the railway line to the edge of the 

17 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Kikuyu Forest, along the edge of the forest to a beacon at 
the point where the M'bagathi River leaves the forest by 
a line of beacons to the Survey beacon on the Ngong hills 
(Donyo Lamuyu), thence to Mt. Suswa by a line of bea- 
cons and from Suswa due west to the Mau escarpment, 
which it follows south to the Guaso Nyiro and by the left 
bank of that river to the German frontier. 

Thence following the German frontier to the Tsavo 
(Useri) River. 

By the left bank of the Tsavo River to a beacon at the 
point where the Ngulia and Kyulu hills approach the 
river. Thence following the foot of the eastern slopes of 
Kyulu hills to the Makindu River, which it follows to the 
Uganda Railway. 

From the Makindu River the line follows the railway to 
the Ngong River. 

2. The Northern Reserve. 

Eastern Boundary 

Starting from the ford at " Campi ya Nyama Yangu " 
on the Northern Guaso Nyiro River, the boundary follows 
the eastern slopes of the following hills : 

Mt. Koiseku, Mt. Kalama, Mt. Lololugi, Mt. Wargies 
(Table Mountains), Mt. Leo, Mt. Endata, Mt. Kulal. 

From Mt. Kulal by a line northeast to Mt. Moille, 
thence following the eastern slopes of this mount and 
Mount Seramba, Mt. Loder Moretu, and Mt. Kul. 

From Mount Kul to a beacon on the western side of 
Mt. Marsabit. 

Northern Boundary 

From the beacon on the western side of the Mt. Marsa- 
bit by a straight line west to Mt. Nyiro. 

i8 



BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

Western Boundary 

From Mt. Nyiro following the foot of the Laikipia 
escarpment to the Mugatan River. 

Thence in a direct line to the junction of the Guaso 
Nyiro and Guaso Narok. 

Southern Boundary 

Thence following the left bank of Guaso Nyiro to the 
ford at " Campi ya Nyama Yangu." 
(See map.) 



CHAPTER II 

THE CARAVAN OR " SAFARI " 

Safari is a Ki-Swahili word, which is commonly used 
not only for designating the caravan itself, meaning 
thereby all the people who serve as headmen, gun bearers, 
porters, etc., but it also means traveling by any other 
means than by railroad or steamer. If it is said, for in- 
stance, that anyone is " out on safari," it conveys the idea 
that the person in question is out on a trip with porters, 
oxen, mules, horses, or donkeys; in one word, moving 
about the country living in his tent. " Safari," therefore, 
is one of the first words the traveler learns of the useful 
Ki-Swahili language, the lingua franca of the whole East 
and Central Africa. In fact, I have heard hunters say that 
they were surprised to find this language so serviceable 
to them even far in the interior of the Congo Free State. 
On account of this great usefulness of the Ki-Swahili lan- 
guage, there will be a chapter at the end of the book de- 
voted to the rudiments of grammar, words, and phrases 
most necessary for the hunter, who would be independent 
of irresponsible and often inefficient interpreters, and who 
also wishes to get his information about the game and 
paths at ^rst hand from the natives of the different 
tribes. This is often of the greatest importance to the 
sportsman. 

20 



THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

As soon as the hunter arrives at Nairobi he will at once 
set about getting his safari ready, unless he has made his 
arrangements beforehand through some of the Nairobi 
agents or, as they call themselves, " safari outfitters." 
This is, of course, the most convenient way, saving quite 
a little personal work, trouble, and a few days of time, but 
costing considerably more than when the sportsman fits 
out his caravan himself. One of the largest safari out- 
fitters in Nairobi advertises that people in employing 
them " save trouble and expense." Once I tried this firm, 
being in a great hurry to get off to the jungle, but found 
that, although I saved some " trouble," the " expense " 
was much larger than if I had arranged for everything 
myself. 

Of course, the hunter going into the country for the 
first time without some knowledge of the Ki-Swahili lan- 
guage, and with little time at his disposal, but plenty of 
" cash on hand," does best in letting some firm fit him out 
with everything, making the agreement that the firm in 
question shall supply everything at the lowest local retail 
cost, and then charge five per cent commission on the total 
expenditure. Another, but more expensive, way of doing 
the same thing is to agree on a certain fixed sum per month 
for so many men, horses, or mules, as the case may be, in- 
cluding all expenses, but the reader may be absolutely sure 
that the " certain fixed sum " in this case is so " fixed " 
that the safari outfitters, at all events, profit largely 
thereby. 

To give the intending sportsman an idea of what an 
ordinary, average safari in British East Africa may cost 
him per month, I shall here give a few extracts from my 

21 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

own carefully kept accounts during three different expe- 
ditions into the interior. A single sportsman needs, to be 
perfectly comfortable and for a three- or four-months' 
shooting trip, about forty men in all, although he may get 
along with less. This will cost him about as follows: 

1 headman wages per month, $14.00 

2 gun bearers (for both) " " " 25.00 

4 askaris (for all) " " " 16.00 

I cook " " " 10.00 

I personal "boy," or butler " " " 9.00 

I syce, or horse boy " " " 5.00 

30 porters at $3.34 each " " " 100.00 

Food for all 40 men " " 30.00 

Extra expenses for occasional guides, etc 21.00 

Total for all men, wages and food $230.00 

Besides this monthly expense there is an initial outlay, 
according to the government regulation, requiring for each 
man one blanket, a jersey, and a water bottle, amounting 
to about $1 to $1.50 per man according to quality, or, say, 
in all about $60 for the forty men. Then, in most cases 
the hunter has to supply the headman, gun bearers, cook, 
and " boy " with a suit of khaki clothes, coat and trousers, 
which cost about $3 the suit. This would add to the initial 
expense another $15. A good horse costs about $200, more 
or less, and a fair, strong riding mule from $100 to $150, 
while good donkeys can be had from $14 to $18. These 
animals are sold again at the end of the safari, realizing, if 
in good condition, about sixty to eighty per cent of their 
original cost. 

The " askaris " are a kind of native soldier, whose duty 
it is to look after and help the men during the march, to 

22 



THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

pitch the owner's tent, as well as to watch at night in turns 
around the camp fire, and they are, therefore, really indis- 
pensable for his comfort and safety in the jungle. 

Adding all these expenses up, and allowing for " addi- 
tional extras," such as railway trips, and the hunter's own 
food supply, a four months' safari, during which time the 
sportsman, with ordinary luck, will be able to secure most 
of the big game of East Africa, will cost approximately : 

40 men's regulation outfit once for all, $60.00 

5 men's khaki suits " " " 15.00 

40 men's wages and food " " " 960.00 

A good riding horse " " " 200.00 

Possible extras " " " 215.00 

Total expense for four months $1,450.00 

Possible return from sale of horse 150.00 

Total expense $1,300.00 

The price of the hunting license must be added to this 
expense, and from the beginning of 19 10 this will cost the 
sportsman $250, giving him, as we have already seen, a 
certain amount of different kinds of animals, with the ex- 
ception of elephants. If he wants to kill one elephant he 
has to pay an additional $50, and if he desires a license to 
shoot a second elephant he has to pay a further additional 
fee of $100, so that the total price of the general license, 
including the right of killing or capturing two elephants, 
amounts to $4CX). 

Therefore, if the safari is carefully looked after, a four 
months' trip, including the above-mentioned licenses and 
all expenses, would not need to cost more than about 
$1,700, and may be run for even much less than that. 

23 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

The reason why one man for a long jungle trip needs as 
many as forty men, which would give him about thirty 
porters for carrying loads, and possibly only twenty of 
these would carry food, is that in most of the outlying dis- 
tricts, where the best game is to be had, no food or 
" posho," as the porters' food is generally called, can be 
obtained locally, and forty men will eat just about one load 
of posho of sixty pounds each day. This again would 
only carry the safari along for less than a month, but 
within that time the hunter probably passes by some East 
Indian's store, or a native village, where it is possible to 
buy the needed loads of posho. And besides this, at the 
start each man may carry his own food for six to eight 
days in a small muslin bag, which is added to his load. 
Then, if much game is secured, it is possible to feed the 
men on smaller rations of posho, so that twenty loads 
of posho, for instance, would in such a way be sufficient 
for four or five weeks, within which time the sportsman 
is now reasonably certain of being able to buy food locally 
in almost any place in British East Africa. 

If, however, the hunter desires to go very far off from 
inhabited country, he can arrange for the posho in an- 
other way — by taking, say, only twenty men in all, just 
enough to have them carry the camp outfit, guns, and a 
few loads of food, and then use twelve donkeys to carry 
the rest of the men's posho. As each donkey carries 
from one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty 
pounds, and only feeds on the grass, it is possible, in such 
a way, to be out from fifty days to two months without 
buying fresh supplies. If rations are cut down, when 
meat is very plentiful, it may be possible to be away 

24 





Camp of the Tjadf.r East African Expedition, 1906, at Solai, B. E. A. 




The Advance Guard of the Caravan Crossing a River ux the Way to 

SOTIK. 



THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

even for two months and a half or more with such an 
outfit. 

On my first expedition to East Africa I engaged a great 
many more men than most hunters need. At times I had 
over one hundred porters in my caravan, and on one of our 
trips the number rose to one hundred and seventeen. The 
reason for this was that I was collecting specimens for the 
American Museum of Natural History in New York City. 
When I informed the director of the museum of my in- 
tention to go out to Africa on a hunting trip, and that I 
was also willing to use the opportunity to enrich the col- 
lection of the museum, he volunteered to give me letters 
of introduction to British officials to secure special permits 
for me in the field. He also gave me one of the best pre- 
parators of the institution, Mr. Herbert Lang, who acted 
as our official photographer and taxidermist, and to whose 
faithfulness, skill, and untiring efiforts much of the success 
of the expedition was due. The museum further supplied 
most of the curing materials, special skinning knives and 
other things needed for the work in the field. When a 
scientific expedition goes out into the jungle to collect 
specimens for preservation in museums, it needs a great 
deal more curing material, special drying boxes for bird 
skins, traps for smaller mammals, etc. 

Then, again, the scientist, when he secures an animal, 
not only takes ofif the head and the skin of head and neck 
for trophies, as the mere sportsman generally does, but 
has to conserve the whole skin of the beast. But not only 
that, in a great many cases he also desires to bring home the 
leg bones, as well as the ribs and sometimes the whole 
chest, without cutting the ribs apart, and all the rest of the 

25 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

skeleton. This again necessitates a great many more por- 
ters than the ordinary hunter needs. Thus, for instance, 
it required forty men to carry the skin and skeleton of 
my largest rhino from the place where he fell to the camp, 
where the skin was cut thin and prepared, whereas if this 
rhino had only been taken as a trophy two men could easily 
have carried anything that the sportsman would have liked 
to take home with him. My first trip to East Africa has 
several times been mentioned in the annals of the museum 
as the " Tjader East African Expedition." About one 
third of its actual expenses were afterwards contributed 
by the American Museum of Natural History, which re- 
ceived the greater part of the collection, or somewhat over 
four hundred specimens of mammals, reptiles, and birds. 
The rest of the '' spoil," besides a couple of dozen trophies 
which I kept for myself, was presented to the Royal Swed- 
ish Academy of Science in Stockholm. 

In getting the safari together it is often of great im- 
portance to take porters of different tribes, such as the 
Wa-Swahili, the Wa-Nyamwezi, the Wa-Kamba, and the 
Wa-Kikuju, as they are then not so apt to try any con- 
spiracy or mutiny of any sort, wliich hunters have some- 
times had to contend with; and it is also possible to get 
more work out of the men by playing one tribe off against 
another, for they all want to show that their tribe is better 
than any other. This worked very well indeed when I 
sometimes had to make exceptionally long and hard 
marches over difficult territory and waterless tracts of the 
country. 

The porters generally like to start out very early in the 
morning, long before the svm rises, so as to be able to 

26 



THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

cover the clay's march of some fifteen to twenty-five miles 
before the heat of the noon hours. In such a case, as soon 
as camp is made, and firewood and water brouglit in, 
most of the men have the whole afternoon for rest and 
play, if they are so bent, and the hunter a fine chance to 
bring some additional game to bag, after the greatest heat 
of the day is over. To gain this point, I have often started 
the safari as early as 3.30 and 4 a.m., particularly if we 
had moonlight, or else a few minutes after five, when the 
eastern sky begins to show signs of the morning light. 
If one can use a well-defined path, the early morning march 
is very pleasant, but it may otherwise be dangerous, and 
particularly so in dense bush country, where a lion or rhino 
may be lurking around, and suddenly take exception to 
having his own territory invaded. 

I remember one early morning on the beautiful Laikipia 
plateau, when we had left camp before 4 a.m., and the 
whole caravan of some hundred and fifteen men was slowly 
moving along the northern banks of the beautiful Guaso 
Narok River, going downstream through rather thick 
bush, how suddenly one of the men right behind me half 
whispering said: 

"Bwana, naona vifaru viwili mbele karibu," or, in Eng- 
lish, '' Sir, I see two rhinos near by in front." 

As I tried to peer through the bush in the half dark, 
the bright moon having disappeared for a moment behind 
some rather thick clouds, I saw one large and one half- 
grown rhino, only some twenty yards off, standing in a 
little open space, at the edge of which our path wound 
its way. They were evidently a mother with her young, 
and therefore very " unsafe " indeed. Having already had 

27 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

to shoot more rhinos than allowed on m)'- license only to 
protect our lives, and it being too dark anyway to take 
careful aim, I stopped, with one of the gun bearers, to 
stand guard while the caravan passed by on the other side 
of some bush. The men had been told to walk as quietly 
as they could. As the porters marched very closely to- 
gether, it did not take them perhaps more than two minutes 
to pass the little opening on which the rhinos stood. Dur- 
ing this time the old female *' sniffed " and " puffed " and 
tossed her head, evidently scenting the men, but unable 
to make up her mind whether to charge or not, while the 
youngster continually changed his position from one side 
of his mother to the other. Finally, as the last man had 
passed, I retreated carefully, " covering " the mother with 
my gun, until she was out of sight. The caravan porters 
seem, as a rule, to have very little personal courage, for 
twice afterwards, when a rhino charged down on us in 
front, a great many of the men far behind, and out of 
immediate danger, threw down their loads and stampeded 
for the nearest cover like so many frightened cattle ! 

It is of great importance for a successful safari to have 
an experienced and efficient headman, who understands 
how to handle his people, for if he does not know how to 
make himself respected and instantly obeyed, the whole 
caravan is soon demoralized. The best thing to do then 
is to " degrade " the headman and select the best askari 
to take his place. I was once forced to take this measure. 
It worked very well, indeed, as the askari whom I made 
headman turned out to be a splendid " captain," and every- 
thing went on beautifully after the change. 

When a hard day's march is done, and the hunter has 

28 



THE CARAVAN OR "SAFARI" 

succeeded in bagging some coveted trophies, it is a great 
pleasure to sit down near the big camp fire, after a good 
but simple dinner, and let the men perform their war 
dances, sing and chant, and tell their very often interesting 
stories, until the oncoming darkness reminds the sports- 
man that it is time to " turn in " to gather new strength 
for the morrow's adventures and possible hardships. 



CHAPTER III 

THE LION KING OF BEASTS 

Almost since time immemorial the lion has been called 
the " King of beasts." Most writers of natural history 
still bestow this high title upon the big feline, largely on 
account of its generally majestic appearance, courage, and 
fierceness of its character. Yet a good many prominent 
African hunters do not share this opinion, and have from 
experience learned that the lion is not so " noble " and 
" fearless," except when wounded or cornered, as it is 
cowardly and mean. From my own limited experience in 
lion hunting, I side with the latter, and think that for many 
reasons the elephant is much more worthy of the exalted 
title. 

The lion is the only representative of the large cat fam- 
ily which grows a mane, covering often not only head, 
neck, and shoulders, but sometimes also fully half of the 
back and chest. The mane of the African lion diflfers a 
great deal in size and color. Contrary to the general opin- 
ion, the lion of the Old World also carries a mane, al- 
though perhaps not of the average size of that of the 
African lion. Another and rather queer characteristic 
of the big feline is a large, strange-looking tuft of hair at 
the end of its tail, which very often at the extreme point 
carries a small horny appendage, surrounded by a brush of 

30 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

coarse hair. Much has been said and written about the 
reason for this kind of " horn " on the Hon's tail, and some 
have thought that it served as a goad, v^^ith w^hich the hon 
provokes itself to fury, when it lashes its flanks with the 
tail, as it often does when angry. With the exception 
of the smaller or larger mane of the male, the hair of 
both lion and lioness is very short and close. Its color 
varies from light yellowish brown or tawny to dark brown, 
turning, in the manes of some old males, into an almost 
perfect black. The skins of young cubs are almost in- 
variably plainly spotted, which is often the case in full- 
grown young lionesses. The manes begin to make their 
appearance first during the third year, and a lion's age is 
estimated anywhere from thirty to fifty years. 

Lions vary a great deal in size and weight. Measured, 
as a rule, from the tip of the nose to the very end of the 
tail, Indian lions have been found as long as eight feet 
ten inches, whereas the famous lion and elephant hunter, 
Mr. F. C. Selous, gives records of specimens of lions he 
had shot in South Africa which measured respectively ten 
feet six inches, ten feet nine inches, and eleven feet one 
inch. The largest lion I have ever shot measured ten 
feet two inches from the tip of the nose to the end of the 
tail, the tape line being laid along the curve of the body 
before skinning. The height at the shoulders of full-grown 
specimens also varies from three feet to three feet six 
inches, and I have heard of a lion shot in German East 
Africa which stood fully three feet nine inches high, but 
this is probably rather extraordinary. Still more does the 
weight of full-grown lions vary, and not only the size 
of the beast, but its general condition makes a great dif- 

31 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

ference in this respect. Lionesses have been found weigh- 
ing from three hundred pounds to four hundred and 
twenty-five pounds, and full-grown males tip the scales at 
four hundred and fifty pounds and more, one of the larg- 
est on record having weighed five hundred and eighty- 
three poimds. This was an unusually large male lion, in 
the prime of life, killed in the Orange Free State, in 
1865, i" ^ locality where game was very abundant. That 
specimen, therefore, was in splendid condition. 

The lion inhabits at present not only the greater part 
of Africa, from the Cape Colony in the south to Abyssinia 
and the northern parts of the Sahara Desert in the north, 
but it is also found in many places in southwestern Asia, 
where it still occurs in certain parts of Mesopotamia and 
Arabia, as well as in northwestern India. It is now more 
and more rarely seen in the latter locality, and it is only 
a question of a few years when the beautiful beast will 
have been completely exterminated within the limits of 
India. In ages past, and even within historic times, the 
lion was found in southeastern Europe, in such countries 
as Roumania and Greece, and bones and skulls of pre- 
historic lions, of unquestionably the same species, have 
been found as far north as Germany, the British Isles, and 
France. 

In South Africa lions are now very scarce in the dis- 
tricts south of the Orange River, where the white man 
with his modern firearms has almost exterminated the big 
cat. In other parts of Africa, however, it is almost ab- 
solutely certain that where large herds of game are still 
to be found, there the lion also abounds. On the othef 
hand, in places where there is a scarcity of game, one 

32 




Young Lion Walking Toward the Camera. 




Lioness Killed on the Athi Plains. 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

rarely finds the great feline, the appetite of which seems 
tremendous. It is said by prominent African hunters, and 
corroborated by the natives themselves, that, where game 
is plentiful, an adult lion kills a good-sized animal almost 
every night. In places where it has not been much shot at, 
the lion sometimes hunts even in the daytime, if it, for 
some reason, failed to secure its prey the night before. 
This I myself firmly believe, for the first lion I ever killed 
had just slain a zebra, which it was devouring, when a 
good Winchester bullet, at close quarters, intercepted the 
meal ; and this happened about ten o'clock in the morning 
of a perfectly bright day and right on the Athi plains, only 
a few miles from Nairobi. 

As a rule the lion hunts just after sunset, when it can 
more easily stalk its prey unobserved. Its favorite food 
seems to be zebra meat, but any good-sized antelope will 
do just as well if, for any reason, a zebra cannot be secured. 
There have been instances, although they are probably 
very rare, where a lion has stalked even a full-grown buf- 
falo, but only extreme lack of other food would make 
the lion bold enough to attack such a powerful animal, 
which certainly has many times over the strength of the 
lion. 

On the foothills of Kenia I was once told by some 
Wandorobo, the wildest and most primeval natives of 
British East Africa, who also are, as a rule, the best 
trackers and pathfinders in the jungle, that they had once 
witnessed a fight between a lion and a full-grown buffalo 
cow. The lion had just sprung upon its calf and killed it, 
when the infuriated mother suddenly appeared on the 
scene, and, with lowered horns, rushed at the murderer 

33 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

of its " baby " with such speed that, before the lion could 
jump up, it was caught on the horns of the buffalo and 
tossed many feet into the air. No sooner had the lion 
touched the ground than the angry mother was at it again, 
and although the big cat succeeded in cutting some terrible 
gashes on the neck of its assailant with its claws, and 
actually bit off half its nose, yet it was finally crushed to 
death by the horns of the buffalo. As soon as the lion 
was dead the cow stood bleeding and trembling over the 
dead body of its offspring, until the cruel but delighted 
Wandorobos shot it with their poisoned arrows, and so 
put an end to its sufferings. 

When the lion kills big game single-handed it does it 
generally in the following way: It first stalks its prey, 
until it is so close that a few mighty leaps will bring it up 
alongside the same. Then it suddenly seizes the victim's 
nose with one of its mighty paws, while with the other 
it catches hold of the back of the animal, and so in an 
instant pulls the head sideways and downward with such 
force as almost invariably to break its neck at once, or 
else gives the beast a tremendous bite at the back of the 
head, which instantly kills it. Sometimes the lion begins 
its meal by tearing its prey open, first drinking the blood 
and eating heart and lungs, before it begins on the rest 
of the body, but it often prefers starting with the hind- 
quarters. 

Very often the lion simply lies in hiding near some 
water hole or drinking place in a stream, near enough to 
reach its prey with a single mighty swoop. It seems very 
strange that herds of zebra, for instance, will night after 
ii^ght go down to the very same watering place to drink, 

34 



t ^ 




,^y. 







Large, Black-maned Liox Killed ox the Sotik Plains, May, 1909. 




Same as Above. 
Note the enormous size of the mane, the longest hairs of which measure 

seventeen inches. 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

where they frequently have had the excitement of losing 
one of their " comrades." Someone has said that the ani- 
mals seem to understand that, as soon as one of them 
has been killed, the others are safe for that night at least, 
and so they often continue to drink and feed as if nothing 
at all had happened. I have also noticed that in the early 
morning the animals seem to have no dread whatsoever of 
the lions. 

Once on a march over the Sotik plains with the whole 
caravan, the second gun bearer stopped me and, pointing 
a little to the left, said: " Bwana, tasama simba wawili 
huko " (" Sir, look out, there are two lions over there.") 
Turning in that direction, I first only saw a number of 
Coke's hartebeest and some smaller gazelles quietly feed- 
ing, and did not believe that the gun bearer could be right. 
As he insisted that the lions were there, I took the strong 
field glasses and saw, to my amazement and joy, three full- 
grown lions, stretched out on the ground, not fifty yards 
away from the nearest antelopes, which must have passed 
even much closer to the lions, judging from the way they 
were feeding ! 

Were the antelopes perhaps intelligent enough to know 
that the lions, having had their " fill " during the night, 
would not attack them in the daytime ? Or could they have 
known that lions after a hearty meal are unable to run 
fast enough to catch an antelope? This is indeed a fact, 
for I had soon bagged the largest of the trio, a splendid, 
black-maned lion, which was too full to run very fast and 
long, its stomach being filled with zebra meat, bones, and 
pieces of striped skin. It may be remarked here that 
neither lion, leopard, nor cheetah seems to be able to run 

35 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

very fast for any length of time. For a few dozen paces 
they go with great speed and in long leaps, but then their 
wind seems suddenly to give out, and they fall into a heavy 
gallop, or canter, when an ordinary riding pony will soon 
outdistance them. 

One of the most interesting and at the same time sure 
ways of hunting lions is to have a man gallop after them 
on horseback until the lion, unable to escape any longer, 
suddenly stops and turns on its pursuer, giving the sports- 
man an excellent chance to shoot his trophy at close quar- 
ters. On one of the first days of my sojourn on the Sotik 
and Loita plains I had two very interesting lion hunts 
in this way, the account of which I here copy from my 
diary : 

". . . After marching with the whole caravan for about 
five hours this morning, we came up to a rather high point 
in the plains, where we rested for a few moments, and 
where I looked around with my field glasses to see if I 
could detect something that looked like a watering place, 
for it was now evident that our Masai guide had not told us 
the truth about the distance to the nearest water. With 
the glasses I now plainly saw three lions a little to our left 
and about a thousand yards off. One looked unusually 
large and had a very black mane, while the two others 
seemed to be either young males or possibly a maneless 
male and a female. I was very anxious to bag one of these 
lions, particularly as they lay right in the line of our 
march, so I dispatched my brave * lion chaser,' Asgar, to 
gallop away with the hunting pony to hinder the biggest 
lion from running away, until we could come up. 

" Now followed the most exciting and interesting chase 

36 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

that I have ever witnessed ! As soon as the three lions saw 
the horse, they all ran off in different directions, Asgar 
following the big black-maned one, and evidently gaining 
on him with every second. My gun bearers and I fol- 
lowed on the run, as fast as we could possibly go. When 
Asgar came within about fifty yards of the lion, it sud- 
denly stopped, viewed him for a few seconds, and then 
turned with a roar and rushed at him. Asgar instantly 
whirled his horse around, and galloped off toward us, with 
the lion close behind him. After a few leaps the lion saw 
that it was impossible to catch the horse, so it gave up 
the chase and turned around to run away. At the very 
same moment Asgar also turned and galloped after the 
lion, and these scenes were repeated again and again, until 
finally the lion was completely tired out, and was brought 
to bay near a half-dried-out stream. 

" As we approached the place, Asgar pointed toward 
the lion with his whip, but I could only hear loud grunting 
from the other side of the little stream. Against the advice 
of my gun bearers, but bound on getting the lion at any 
cost, I crossed the river bed through the dense bush, to be 
faced the next second, to my unspeakable joy, by this mag- 
nificent ' king of beasts,' which showed its beautiful head 
above a little bush, only some thirty yards away from where 
I emerged from the stream. As it caught sight of me, 
it advanced up into the bush, exposing entirely its head 
and shoulders. Here it stood, majestically, switching its 
tail and giving a tremendous roar as a warning signal 
for me not to come any nearer. 

" Just one look around assured me that my camera 
bearer had unfortunately again failed to follow me closely^ 

37 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

and, seeing this, I fired with my excellent 11.2 millimeter 
Mauser rifle, hitting the lion square in the chest. It took 
three or four big leaps into the dense bush lining the 
little stream, and from there we now heard his loud grunt- 
ing for a few seconds. My men wanted me to shoot into 
the bush at random, thinking I might hit the lion some- 
where, but this seemed to me perfectly useless and cow- 
ardly, so I advanced cautiously, with the gun ready. Part- 
ing the bushes with my left arm, to be able to peer into the 
dense thicket, I finally caught sight of the ' fallen mon- 
arch,' breathing his last and stretched out on the ground. 
Now it was my turn to shout, and in a few seconds the 
rest of the men came around congratulating and saying 
that they had never before seen a lion with such a big 
mane. After having pulled it out from the bush, we found 
that it measured nine feet eight inches from the tip of 
the nose to the end of the tail, and so proved to be a 
large specimen with an unusually long and thick black 
mane. . . ." 

On the following Tuesday morning we left camp long 
before daylight to see if we could find some more lions, 
and this day proved to be one of the most successful hunt- 
ing days that I have ever had. Having arrived just after 
sunrise on a rather high elevation on the plains, from 
where we had an excellent view in all directions, I sat 
down on a big rock to examine the plains with the field 
glasses. To the east I saw six giraffes — three large ones, 
evidently a male and two females, and three young ones, 
the smallest of which was not much larger than an ordi- 
nary calf, except for the length of its neck. Between us 
and the giraflfes was a herd of about thirty eland ante- 

38 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

lopes, calmly grazing. Farther to the north we saw count- 
less numbers of zebra and antelopes of different kinds, 
and toward the south and west, big herds of wildebeests 
and other game. . . . 

On the way back to the rock, whither we decided to re- 
turn for another survey of the land, after I had bagged a 
cheetah and a topi, I saw an unusually large white-bearded 
gnu which I also secured, and when we finally arrived on 
top of the hill again, I discovered two lions, due south from 
us, both resting, and fully stretched out on the ground. 
Now followed a still more interesting chase than the one a 
couple of days before, as this lion was even more " gamey " 
than the other. 

'' Repeatedly it turned and charged so suddenly and 
quickly at the horse, that it looked as if it would catch 
up with Asgar; but a few moments later the tables were 
turned and we found Asgar chasing the lion. So it went 
on for half a dozen times at least, until we succeeded in 
coming so close to the lion that it caught sight of us. 

'' Instantly the beast made for me in a bee line. Before 
the lion had come even within one hundred yards the 
gun bearers begged me to shoot. But, enjoying the looks 
of the beautiful oncoming beast with its enormous flut- 
tering mane, I let it come, calling out to * his majesty ' in 
Ki-Swahili : ' Karibu mzee, karibu,' which means, * Come 
on, old man, come on.' And on it came! Oh, had my 
camera bearer only been up beside me now, what a mag- 
nificent picture I should have obtained! 

" Again the men begged me to shoot, but as I was sure 
of my aim and my gun, I let the lion come on until within 
thirty yards or less, when I fired, the bullet hitting squarely 

39 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

between its shoulders, and down the Hon went in an in- 
stant. I sprang forward, shouting for joy, when, to my 
utter surprise, the Hon got up and, with a never-to-be- 
forgotten roar, rushed for me, now less than twenty 
yards off! Then the second bullet sent it to the ground 
again, never more to move ! An examination of the trophy 
revealed to our great delight that this lion was even 
larger than the one killed before, measuring ten feet 
two inches from the tip of the nose to the end of the tail, 
and having a much larger and almost black mane. Every- 
body that saw this skin, including a government official 
who has examined over two hundred lion skins, seemed 
to think it one of the largest and rriost beautiful lions ever 
killed in British East Africa. . . ." 

When big plains are traversed by rivers, or even dried- 
out water courses, where always a great many large trees 
and high grasses grow, one may be reasonably sure of 
finding lions or leopards, unless they have often been dis- 
turbed by hunters. In such places it is a good scheme to 
go in among the trees, up wind, to some point where one 
can see across the whole belt of bush, then screen one's 
self as well as possible, and send the men to beat the 
bush for a mile or so above. The lion will then generally 
run away from the beaters, down wind, but, fearing to 
be detected on the open plains, it will, as a rule, keep 
running between the trees and the bushes along the river 
or in the dry river bed. Then it is easily shot, as it passes 
the place where the hunter stands. If the lion, under 
such circumstances, is only wounded, it will almost in- 
variably charge, and woe to the hunter who then fails to 
receive it with steady nerve and ready gun ! 

40 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

The lion seems to hate the heat of the noonday sun, 
for it loves then to lie down in the thick bush, or in a 
cool swamp among the high papyrus, even often partly 
down in the water itself. It also loves to retreat into 
caves, well protected from the rays of the sun. In the 
hot lowlands and lower plateaus of East Africa the manes 
of the lions are exceedingly poor, a good many having 
practically no manes at all, while others have a short, 
tawny-colored mane — a poor trophy indeed. In the cooler 
regions, however, the manes are sometimes perfectly mag- 
nificent, covering the neck, more than half of the back, 
away down over the shoulders, and are dark brown to al- 
most black in shade. Tne " black-maned " lion is regarded 
as the finest trophy, and comparatively few sportsmen are 
lucky enough to shoot such a one. People have even 
suggested that there are dififerent species of lions accord- 
ing to their manes, but as lions with all sorts of manes, 
but otherwise perfectly alike, inhabit the same localities, 
this is entirely untenable. 

It is when the lion gets too old to be able to catch game 
that it takes to " man-eating " and so becomes the terror 
of the natives in its district. In January, 1910, I met a 
government official, whom I had visited on my previous trip 
to Kenia, and who told me of some terrible experiences 
he had had with a man-eater since then. But before re- 
lating these, I must tell of an incident which happened on 
the way to this official's house. 

We had just crossed a river, where we saw fresh 
lion tracks. As we emerged from the bank of the river, 
we found a great many Kikuyu beads, often worn by the 
men of the tribe, strewn on the ground. Not thinking of 

41 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

the fresh Hon tracks, that we had seen below, my gun 
bearer jokingly remarked to me that perhaps two Kikuyu 
men had been fighting here, having torn off each other's 
beads. When I suggested that a lion might have killed 
a man here, he stoically said: " Labda, Bwana " ("Per- 
haps, sir) ? " No sooner had we reached the little govern- 
ment forestry station, than we heard that the very even- 
ing before a man-eating lion had killed a Kikuyu on this 
very spot. But owing to heavy rains during the night, 
the blood marks and other possible signs of the struggle 
had been washed away. 

This government official told me that it very probably 
was the same man-eater, an old lioness, which had killed 
a number of people in the district, finally growing so bold 
that it would come up to within a few yards of his own 
house to try to slay some of his workmen. One dark even- 
ing four of his men wanted to go to a spring about a 
hundred yards from his house to get some additional water. 
They were warned not to go by their employer, but said 
they would all take spears and torches, so that there would 
be no danger. They subsequently went, but none of them 
ever returned! The ferocious lioness succeeded in killing 
all of them, and dragged the bodies of two away into the 
dense bush, where a few days later their crushed skulls 
and a few bones were all that was left! In vain the of- 
ficial tried to shoot or trap the lioness, for fear of which 
his wife and baby for days never dared to leave the house. 
But finally one moonlight night, when a goat was tied 
close to the house and the bloodthirsty brute was in the 
very act of springing on its easy prey, it was killed by 
two well-aimed shots, fired from the open window, and 

42 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

so the district was ridded of a man-eater, which had slain 
over twenty people in a few weeks ! 

In spite of such not infrequent occurrences, and nu- 
merous accidents to Hon hunters, it seems to me that the 
dangers of Hon hunting are generally overestimated, for 
few African beasts are as easily killed as the lion, if hit 
either in head, neck, or chest. But, of course, the follow- 
ing up of a wounded lion or lioness in dense bush, or high 
grass, is a very dangerous undertaking, just as it would 
be to pursue wounded buffaloes, rhinos, leopards, and par- 
ticularly elephants. With ordinary precautions, however, 
a man with a good magazine gun and steady nerve, and 
perhaps with a reserve gun of some bigger bore close at 
hand, runs very little risk of being killed or wounded by 
lions, unless he should attack a large number at the 
same time, or else lose his head and fail to make his shots 
tell. 

A good many have been mauled or killed when hunting 
lions on horseback, as the movements of the more or less 
frightened horse make a steady aim and a good shot almost 
impossible. It was in this way a young settler, a Mr. 
Smith, in the Sotik country was very nearly killed, while 
I was out there in 1909. He had gone lion shooting on 
horseback with a friend of his, both being good shots and 
fearless men. They had succeeded in bagging a couple 
of lions, and as they were returning to Mr. Smith's farm 
in the evening, they came upon a lioness, which they 
wounded, but which they did not want to follow into the 
dense jungle, as the sun was just about setting. 

The next morning, however, they rode out again to 
secure the wounded lioness, but before they anticipated 

43 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

any charge at all, she sprang upon Mr. Smith's friend, 
trying to tear him down from his saddle. Young Smith 
then fired at the lion, wounding it in the back. Instantly 
the lion let go his comrade, and made for Mr. Smith in 
mighty leaps. From his saddle he fired five times at the 
oncoming beast, yet without hitting any of its vital spots, 
and before his comrade had a chance to come to his res- 
cue, the lioness tore him down from his saddle and horri- 
bly mauled him. Just as he had given up all hope, and the 
lioness was burying its terrible fangs in his leg, his badly 
wounded comrade succeeded in killing it by a well-aimed 
shot through the head at a few yards' distance. ] 

As lions often go in pairs and groups of from eight to 
twelve, or sometimes even more, it may be very dangerous 
for a single man to attack such a large number of these 
powerful beasts. But, on the other hand, if the hunter 
is not far ofif and able to make every shot tell, and first 
kills the grown females, he will probably be able to master 
the situation. The well-known German traveler and ex- 
plorer. Dr. Carl Peters, the founder of German East Af- 
rica, told me that he once, on one of his trips there, came 
upon a group of twenty-two lions, most of which were 
full-grown males and females. Being an absolutely fear- 
less man and a good shot, he was able to kill five, the others 
running for cover in the bushes. Another sportsman, an 
American, killed six lions in less than two hours during 
the fall of 1909. An Australian hunter and settler told 
me last December that he went out in the fall of 1909 to 
shoot a lion which the night before had killed one of his 
oxen. But being confronted with eleven of these big fe- 
lines, he quickly retreated without molesting the lions, 

44 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

some of which had already observed him, although they 
did not seem to mind him in the least. 

According to my own limited experience with lions, 
having in all killed but six, and perhaps only seen seven 
or eight more, I must say that I do not admire their 
courage, unless they are both wounded and cornered. Five 
full-grown lions, which I once saw lying on some flat 
rocks, unfortunately jumped down and disappeared into 
the high grass before it was possible for me to fire. I then 
shot a few times into the moving grass in the hope that by 
possibly wounding one of them it might charge down on 
me, and so give me the chance of a shot at close quarters, 
but, alas ! nothing of the kind happened. 

Much has been said and written about the roaring of 
the lion, some holding the view that the lion only roars 
after it has killed its prey, and when wounded or cornered, 
and when prepared to charge. Others again affirm that 
the lion also often roars before it kills its prey. In locali- 
ties where it has not been much disturbed by hunters 
the lion's roar may be heard at all times of the day. Per- 
sonally, I am inclined to join the latter's opinion, for I 
have at least twice heard lions roar just after sunset, 
and in both cases I was in the position of knowing that 
they had not yet killed their prey. Lions often hunt in 
company with each other, and are then evidently roaring 
to confuse the game, and thus drive it in a certain desired 
direction, where other " quiet " lions lie in wait. 

Once I was hunting on the Loita plains, and seeing a 
donga " — i. e., a great many trees strung out along some 
water course — I decided to go through the same for some 
distance with the view of possibly putting up a lion or 
5 45 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

leopard among the bush. Going up wind, with some eight 
or ten of my men spread out in chainlike fashion behind 
me, I walked slowly and without making any unnecessary 
noise, so as not to scare away any beast, before I should 
have a chance of shooting. We thus walked along for 
about half an hour, only putting up a small cheetah, which 
I did not care to fire at for fear of frightening away some 
bigger game. 

The little, partly dried-out stream was winding its way 
in constant turns, so that we often had to cross and recross 
the same. I was again just crossing one of these turns, 
with one of the gun bearers behind me, and at a place where 
all that remained of the stream, so formidable during 
the rainy season, was a big, stagnant pool, which, to judge 
from the maze of lion, antelope, and zebra tracks, was a 
favorite drinking place for all kinds of game. Suddenly, 
as I went down into the bottom of the river, and without 
a moment's warning, a big lioness, which was hiding in 
the bush on an islandlike projection in the bottom of 
the river, jumped out. With an angry grunt, and pass- 
ing my right shoulder within a yard or two, she tried to 
make good her escape into a clump of thick bush which 
we had just passed. 

Had the lioness jumped right upon me instead, her 
sheer weight would have almost crushed me against the 
hard river bottom; but as it was, I turned quickly, and 
with great rapidity fired at the running feline, the bullet 
crushing her pelvis. Before I had time to fire again, she 
had disappeared into the dark bush, from where she now 
ejected the most awe-inspiring roars. With gun cocked 
and ready, I advanced to within six or seven yards of the 

46 




The Lioness Which Almost Killed the Author. 
Shot on the Sotik, 1909. 




A Fine Specimen. 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

thicket in spite of my men's trying to keep me back. Yet 
I could see nothing, so dense was the bush, and so fired 
in the direction of the roar. The shot was followed by 
still louder roaring, after which I heard a noise that made 
me think that the lioness in her fury was crushing the 
bush with her teeth. Again I fired into the bush, but this 
time the wounded lioness answered with a few short 
grunts, at the same time making a desperate effort to get 
out of the bush and charge. Now she exposed her chest 
and neck, and instantly another bullet silenced her forever. 

We all went into the bush to drag the trophy out, and 
found, to our amazement, that the lioness in her anger and 
pain had crushed one of her own hind legs almost to pieces, 
having bitten twelve big holes in it, above and below the 
knee ! This lioness was in her prime, with very large and 
beautiful teeth. The contents of her stomach showed that 
her last meal had consisted of zebra meat. 

One of the most remarkable lion stories which I have 
ever heard, and which I know to be perfectly true, runs 
as follows: Some years ago a man-eating lion had killed 
a number of people near one of the stations of the Uganda 
Railroad. One day, as the Hindu station master, assisted 
by the switchman, was labeling packages on the station 
platform, this man-eater charge^ down upon them. The 
station master rushed headlong through the window into 
his office, but the switchman, whose retreat was cut off 
by the lion, climbed up on a telegraph pole. The station 
master, in his despair, now sent on the following telegram 
to headquarters at Nairobi : " Big lion patrolling platform. 
Switchman on telegraph pole. Send soldiers. My life al- 
most gone." 

47 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Instantly three sportsmen made themselves ready to 
go down by the next train to the station to kill the man- 
eater. They arrived there in the evening, and the private 
car in which they traveled was switched off at the station. 
They all now agreed that during the night they should 
take turns, so that one should always be watching, while 
the other two slept until the morning broke, when they 
expected to go out and look for the lion. That evening 
they probably had taken a little too much whisky, for 
they all went to sleep, including the unfortunate hunter, 
who with his loaded gun had sat down in the open door 
of the carriage to keep watch. The one, however, who 
did not sleep was the lion. For a little after sunset it 
bounded right into the car, snatched the sleeping watch- 
man, and jumped out with him through one of the windows 
of the car, quickly disappearing with its unfortunate prey 
into the jungle. 

It is a fact, although almost incredible, that the ill- 
fated hunters' comrades were either too frightened or too 
drunk, or both, to make any attempt at rescuing their 
friend, for they both shut themselves up in the car, and 
when they went out the next morning to look for the lion, 
they found only the skull and a few bones of their un- 
fortunate comrade. This lion was subsequently killed, 
a good many glass pieces in its mane and back proving 
beyond a question that it had been the guilty one. 

I heard this story for the first time while I was trav- 
eling on the Uganda Railroad between Mombasa and 
Nairobi on my hunting trip in 1906. A German officer 
who shared the same compartment had told me this story 
most dramatically, and, full of excitement and anticipated 

.48 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

adventures, I shouted: "If I saw a lion here, I think I 
would jump out of the train to get it." Imagine my sur- 
prise when the German lieutenant, pointing with his hand 
to the left of the track, answered : " There is one right 
here." Looking in that direction, I actually saw a large 
lion lying upon a zebra which he had killed, and whose 
hind quarter it was devouring, only some three hundred 
yards from the track! 

Quicker than I can describe, I picked up my 50 x no 
Winchester, which I had near at hand, took a handful of 
cartridges out of the bag, and rushed out of the train, 
v/hich had almost been brought to a standstill. In big 
bounds I made off for the lion, putting the cartridges into 
the magazine as I ran. Two English sportsmen thought- 
lessly opened fire on the lion right from their car, and I 
could plainly hear the bullets whiz by as I was running, 
but they, fortunately, hit neither the lion nor me. 

As one of their bullets hit the ground a few inches from 
the lion's nose, throwing sand and dust upon it, the big 
beast turned around as quick as a flash, and with a wild 
roar was ready to fling itself upon me. I had then come 
up within some twenty-five yards. Before the lion could 
spring, I fired at it, the bullet smashing the right shoulder 
and penetrating the heart, and with another roar it fell 
over. 

As this was the first day I ever spent in the interior 
of Africa and the first shot I fired on African soil, the 
reader can imagine how happy I felt at having secured 
such a beautiful trophy. Strange enough, I found out 
three months later that the train had not stopped to ac- 
commodate me in any way, but that something had gone 

49 



THE BIG GAME OE AFRICA 

wrong with the engine at the very moment we saw the 
Hon. The driver simply had to stop the train, and so gave 
me this exceptional chance of getting the lion. 

One often hears people praise the courage of the na- 
tives, hunting the " king of beasts " only with their spears 
or bow and arrow, as compared to the white man and his 
modern rifles. But it is then generally forgotten that 
whereas the white man, as a rule, meets his antagonist 
alone, the natives invariably turn out in great number for 
this sport. If, for instance, a certain lion has repeatedly 
killed cattle or donkeys from a native village or " many- 
ata," the warriors of that village will go out in a body to 
kill the marauder with their deadly spears, which they use 
with great skill and precision. The lion is located, sur- 
rounded and cornered, and then a rush is made for it en 
masse by the men, who spear it to death, but not often 
without a desperate fight, during which generally a few 
warriors are badly mauled, and sometimes killed, before 
the lion succumbs. An eyewitness of such a fray told me 
that when the fight was over, one warrior was dead and 
three or four badly wounded, while the body of the lion, 
with the spears sticking into it, resembled very much a 
huge yellow pin cushion. 

Of all big game, I believe the lion is the most uncertain 
to secure. A man may for weeks and even months be 
in a regular " lion district," where he may hear them roar 
every night and see their fresh " kills " time and again, 
and yet never be able to sight a single one of these very 
wary and cunning beasts. In fact, an English settler not 
far from Naivaska told me that he had lived folr over four 
years in British East Africa in a district much frequented 

50 



THE LION— KING OF BEASTS 

by lions. He had often had cattle killed by the big felines, 
but never yet had seen a single lion, although he had tried 
a good many times to get a shot at one. Finally he suc- 
ceeded with the unsportsmanlike method of poisoning some 
of them with strychnine. 

Some people have killed lions by, for instance, shooting 
a zebra or larger antelope, the body of which is then left 
as it falls without being touched in any way by human 
hands. They then wait on a moonlight night from a 
nearby tree, or a temporary shelter, made by thorn bush, 
until the lion comes along, or else they return to camp and 
revisit the place of the kill before sunrise the following 
morning, before the lions generally leave their prey. Many 
more hunters, myself included, have again and again tried 
this in vain, only to find the carcass undisturbed, or else 
eaten by hyenas or jackals. 

It is a well-known fact that the lion is just as fond of 
eating an already dead animal — even in a state of putre- 
faction — as it is of eating its own, fresh " kill." The old 
theory, although universally believed, that the lion only 
eats the meat of animals it kills itself, has by unmistakable 
evidence been proven to be entirely false. Another strange 
fact is that where lions abound in great numbers, large 
herds of game have existed for ages and still even in- 
creased, while the lion itself, although very seldom killed 
by another beast, never multiplies so much as to threaten 
the game with destruction, even in localities where the 
" king of beasts " has never been hunted by white men. 



CHAPTER IV 

THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

There are two different species of elephants — the 
African ; and the Asiatic, or, as he is more generally called, 
the Indian. This latter species appears to be more closely 
related to the mammoth of past ages than the African ele- 
phant, particularly in regard to the shape of the head and 
the structure of the molar teeth. These are in the Asiatic, 
or Indian, elephant of much finer construction than the 
coarse molar teeth of his African cousins, with their 
larger plates and thicker enamel, proving that the African 
elephant is accustomed to live upon harder and more " sub- 
stantial " food than the Indian, a fact that is borne out by 
all careful observers. 

The heads of the two species differ so much that any- 
one who knows their characteristics at once distinguishes 
the one from the other. In the African species the fore- 
head is much more convex, the base of the trunk wider, 
and the ears more than twice as large as those of the 
Indian elephant. The same is the case with the tusks, 
being in the latter much smaller in bulls, and practically 
nonexisting in females, while the African elephant of both 
sexes carries splendid tusks, weighing in the males some- 
times two hundred pounds apiece, and more. The females 
have much thinner tusks, which, although of considerable 

52 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

length, seldom weigh over thirty pounds apiece. Of the 
two species, the African is also considerably larger, aver- 
aging fully two feet more in height than the Indian ele- 
phant, the same proportions existing if girth and weight 
are considered. 

In regard to their different dispositions, the Asiatic 
species is much milder and more timid. He is therefore 
more easily tamed and used for work or " show " than the 
African elephant, which, if enraged and charging, is one 
of the most terrific foes to encounter. He will then come 
on with raised head, with trunk generally held up in a 
kind of " S " form, his enormous ears standing out in 
right angles against the massive head, forming an ex- 
panse of ten feet or more. At the same time he will 
often emit short, shrill trumpet screams, that seem to 
make the very ground vibrate with their sound, as he 
" shuffles " forward, breaking down everything in his 
way! 

No animal in the world is in reality more deserving to 
be called " King of Beasts " than the elephant, the giant 
of the forest. Not only is this mighty pachyderm by far 
the largest and strongest land animal, but probably also 
the most intelligent. It fears no beast. While the lion 
has to fear the elephant, the rhino, and sometimes even 
the buffalo, and these two latter probably each other, the 
elephant is absolutely without a rival. In fact, the native 
hunters say that as soon as elephants invade a certain 
locality, the rhinos invariably quit, evidently fearing for 
their safety. 

It is perfectly wonderful to see with what " engineer- 
ing skill " the many elephant paths are made, which as- 

53 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

cend and descend the steepest mountain sides of, for in- 
stance, Mt. Kenia, the Aberdares, Kinnangop, and other 
places. The beasts not only seem always to find the best 
places for their paths, but understand also how to make 
them zigzag up the steepest grades, carefully avoiding 
any stones and rocks that are not absolutely solid and safe 
to step on. In the same way they understand how to 
make fine paths through the dense forest, where it would 
be almost impossible for any human being to go forward 
at all. 

To cite only one example of how dense these forests 
sometimes are: A certain government forestry official, 
already referred to in Chapter III, saw my camp fires on 
one of the foothills of Mt. Kenia, just about three miles 
in a straight line from his house. He started out in the 
early morning, thinking that he could easily reach me 
before eight o'clock, and although doing his utmost to 
make as good headway as possible, he did not arrive until 
after twelve at noon, just in time to partake of my Sun- 
day dinner, having had to cut his way through the jungle 
almost inch by inch, as there were no animal paths leading 
in the desired direction. 

The elephant has a much more varied and luxuriant 
" table " than that of nearly all other wild animals, for his 
meals consist of branches and young shoots of certain 
trees, while of others he eats the bark only. He is very 
fond of bamboo leaves and twigs as well as of the young 
bamboo sprouts, before these open up. The forest giant 
probably also consumes a great deal of grass. In certain 
parts of the country, where he has been much hunted and 
where he spends the greater part of the time in the dense 

' 54 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

forest, or high up in the mountain, he makes nightly trips 
down to the plains. 

The favorite haunts of the elephant in British East 
Africa to-day are either among the foothills or higher 
slopes of the before-named mountains, where the bamboo 
often grows in mighty forests, intermingled with large, 
deciduous trees, and occasionally cedars. I have myself 
found elephant tracks on Mt. Kenia at elevations of over 
10,000 feet, far above the timber and bamboo line; and I 
have no doubt that natives tell the truth when they say 
they have known wounded elephants to go almost up to 
the very snow line, which here, under the equator, starts 
first at an altitude of some 15,000 feet. 

Nothing in the way of big-game shooting can be com- 
pared w^ith elephant hunting for the danger, excitement, 
and amount of real sport. No other hunting taxes to such 
an extent the best qualities of the sportsman. He has to 
use the greatest amount of precaution, judgment, strength, 
endurance, nerve and personal courage, strategy, and skill, 
if he desires to bring a fine trophy to bag, without wanting 
to bang indiscriminately at the first best elephant he sees 
hundreds of yards off without regard to its size or sex, 
as, alas ! so many " sportsmen " do to-day. Two Russian 
noblemen whom I met in East Africa told me without 
hesitancy that they were going to take out licenses enough 
to kill three elephants each, this being possible under the 
old game laws in force until December, 1909, and that they 
would fire at the first elephant they saw, whether big or 
small, whether male or female, and that even if the tusks 
would be afterwards confiscated by the government for 
weighing less than sixty pounds together, they would sim- 

55 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

ply buy back the ivory, and, as so many others have done, 
say that they had shot the elephants in " self-defense ! " 

As soon as an elephant track is found, three questions 
have to be satisfactorily answered before it is taken up 
and followed: 

( 1 ) Is the track fresh — i. e., made recently enough to 
be worth following? 

(2) Is the track large enough to justify being 
taken up? 

(3) Is the track made by a bull or a cow elephant? 
The first question is comparatively easy to answer, 

for even a novice will soon see whether or not the track 
is a day old or more. This can be easily determined by 
carefully observing the leaves, branches, and grass which 
have been broken off and trodden down. If these, for 
instance, are perfectly withered and dry, it is reasonably 
sure that the track is at least twenty-four hours old; but 
if they have not had time to wither, and it is evident that 
the grass was pressed down after the dew had fallen, the 
track has been made late the previous night and, if large 
enough, is certainly worth following. Then by going a 
few hundred yards farther along, the hunter may find 
branches, torn off the trees recently enough for the leaves 
to be still fresh, and with the sap perhaps dripping from 
the broken limbs. This is a sure sign that the elephant 
has passed by only some ten to twenty minutes ago. Then 
when also fresh, " steaming " droppings are found, there 
can be no doubt that the elephant is very close at hand. 
To look at the droppings alone would not be sufficient, for 
if the elephant is trekking from one place to another, he 
may just have passed the place in question only half an 

56 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

hour ago, and yet it may be absolutely impossible to follow 
him up, if he has not stopped to feed here and there, for 
these huge beasts walk very fast, and may go on for 
thirty or forty miles before they stop again, if they have 
been disturbed. 

Then, secondly, as to the size of the imprints of the 
feet, there is some difficulty in determining with absolute 
certainty if the animal is a large " tusker " or not. With 
elephants as with men, big feet are not always the signs 
of a very big and powerful " owner." Some elephants 
with very large feet have not had large tusks, and some- 
times, strange enough, may carry only one tusk or no tusk 
at all, even in Africa. In Ceylon and India this is very 
often the case. Again, some exceedingly big tuskers have 
had remarkably small feet. But, as a general rule, a real 
big foot means an old bull, and so the sportsman measures 
at once the imprints in the ground after having been satis- 
fied that the track is fresh enough to follow. If the diam- 
eter of the imprint of the forefoot, which is more of a 
circular form than the hind foot, is only twelve to fifteen 
inches, it is probably not made by a fine tusker ; but if the 
distance across the imprint from front to rear is anywhere 
from eighteen to twenty-four inches or more, it is reason- 
ably certain that the track has been made by some splendid 
old tusker, which very often goes by himself instead of 
mingling with the herd. 

Somewhat more difficult to answer is the third ques- 
tion, as to whether the track has been made by a bull or a 
cow elephant. If by careful measurements its diameter is 
found to be eighteen inches or over and the tracks of the 
hind feet fairly rounded, they have without much doubt 

57 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

been made by a bull elephant. If smaller, and with the 
marks of the hind feet very much of an oval, almost pointed 
shape, it is reasonably certain that they have been made 
by a female elephant. As elephants often walk one behind 
t^e other in each others' steps, particularly when trekking, 
the imprint of the feet must be very carefully examined, 
for several animals may have used exactly the same track 
for some distance. This is, however, not very difficult to 
determine, for it is readily seen by the careful observer that 
the different imprints do not cover each other altogether. 

Imagine that the fresh track of a good-sized bull ele- 
phant has been found! Before it is followed up, how- 
ever, the direction of the wind must be carefully consid- 
ered, for no animal seems to be able to scent a man as 
quickly and as far as the elephant. If the wind is " right " 
— i. e., blowing in the face of the one following the track — 
he may go on as fast as possible, yet taking good care not 
to break twigs or to make any other unnecessary noise. 
The accompanying gun bearers and others should be for- 
bidden to utter a word as the party hastens on, carefully 
observing the track. As, strange to say, only a very few 
natives of British East Africa are really good trackers, 
the hunter is often entirely dependent on his own wood- 
craft and skill in this respect. Suddenly another elephant 
spoor may join the first one at an angle, then another and 
another, until soon there is a whole maze of tracks, in 
which the sportsman can find no trace of his old bull! 

The new tracks may show that a whole herd of ele- 
phants, including a good many females and " babies," have 
trekked along, and from the unbroken trees along the 
broad " elephant road " it is easily understood that the 

58 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

herd has been disturbed, and is moving along quickly, 
without stopping to eat or rest. The hunter should now 
be looking around very carefully, as he hastens along on 
this " road," to find the track of the old tusker, hoping 
that he has left the herd again, as very often happens. 
But all in vain ! The pursuit may have to be given up, and 
the party returns to camp, downhearted and discouraged. 
The above had been my experience in 1909, when, on 
one dreary return march to the camp, having forgotten 
to take an emergency tent with us, one of the native track- 
ers suddenly stopped and whistled faintly. Looking in his 
direction, I saw him nod to us to come on quickly. Before 
we reached him, however, we heard the cracking of the 
trees all around, and now only about eighty or ninety yards 
off we saw a little herd of twelve to fifteen elephants, big 
and small, but mostly females with their " babies," without 
a single big tusker. As the wind was blowing steadily 
from them to us, we noticed their very strong, peculiar 
smell, while they themselves were unable to scent us. 
After all our men had gathered, we told them to lie down 
and be absolutely quiet while I, with one gun bearer and 
the man carrying the camera, sneaked forward to try to 
secure at least some photographs of the herd at close 
quarters. As yet, we were altogether unobserved by the 
herd. Some of the " youngsters " ran playfully about, 
while others were eating the leaves from a tree, which one 
of the adult elephants had broken down for that purpose. 
One very small calf stood between his mother's hind legs, 
probably getting his meal of fresh milk, although from 
where we stood it was impossible to see the little fellow's 
head. 

59 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Nearer and nearer I stole with still more caution, for 
the wind had entirely died away, and, as is very usual in 
thick forests, is liable to spring up again in another direc- 
tion. The forest was rather dense in this place, the big 
trees making the shadow so deep that a snapshot was 
almost impossible; but, trusting to good luck, I tried to 
approach the herd still nearer. Both my men began to 
feel uneasy at about forty yards from the elephants, but 
I simply ordered them to follow me as silently as possible. 
I must confess that my own heart beat a little faster than 
usual at the prospect of this wonderful opportunity of 
observing a herd of elephants from such close quarters, 
and I was fully aware of the danger of the undertaking. 

I had told the " camera man " to walk next to me, 
followed by the gun bearer, who was one of the most 
courageous natives I have ever employed. We were mak- 
ing for a small elevation some twenty yards away from 
the herd, from which point I wanted to take the picture. 
I was at the time carrying the big .577 express rifle myself, 
and was just considering what stop to use, and how 
long exposure to give, when all of a sudden there was a 
commotion among the elephant herd, the wind having evi- 
dently changed its direction. Up went all the trunks in a 
kind of " S " form, while with outspread ears the forest 
giants began to trumpet furiously, so that the whole region 
reechoed with their angry tones, a magnificent, never-to- 
be-forgotten spectacle! I turned around for my precious 
camera only to see the man, apparently without a thing 
in his hands, climbing a large cedar tree, a dozen or so 
yards away, while even my gun bearer, shouting, " Wana 
kuja " ("They are coming"), ran for another tree. 

60 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

On they came ! Two big, young bulls, both with small 
tusks but otherwise full-grown, led the charge, and when 
within some twenty-five yards of me I raised the gun and 
pulled the trigger. " Snap, snap ! " That was all that fol- 
lowed, both cartridges failing to explode ! As I broke open 
the gun as quickly as possible to put in two new shells, 
backing at the same time to gain a fraction of a second's 
time, I fell into a hole above my knees! Now the two 
charging bulls were perhaps within fifteen yards or so, 
and just as I raised the gun to fire again, a shot from the 
gun bearer rang out to my left. The nearest bull, hit in 
the shoulder by the powerful 1 1 millimeter Mauser, at once 
turned and ran away sideways to my right, followed by 
the others, all vanishing as quickly as they could, crush- 
ing through the bush in their wild stampede! 

Not wanting to feel that my life had depended upon 
my gun bearer's shot, I tried the big gun again, this time 
aiming far above the fleeing monsters. Both shots went 
off with a tremendous roar, which made the elephants 
increase their speed still more. This showed to my satis- 
faction that had my gun bearer not returned and shot 
when he saw my plight, I could easily have killed both my 
antagonists at a few yards' distance. Examining the un- 
exploded shells afterwards, I found that they had been 
carelessly loaded, although being bought from a reliable 
London firm, the percussion caps having been pushed in 
so far that the firing pin of the gun could not reach them. 

On the following day we found another very large 
track of a single bull, which we with few interruptions fol- 
lowed for five whole days under the most trying circum- 
stances. We had to cross over marshes, rushing mountain 
6 6i 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

streams, up among the bamboo at more than 9,000 feet 
altitude, only to have to come down again into the valley 
below, until on the fifth day we saw from the appearance 
of the tracks and the untouched trees along his path that 
we would have to abandon the pursuit, the elephant outdis- 
tancing us more and more. 

Another time we found fresh tracks of a very large 
single elephant on the western slopes of the Gojito Moun- 
tains, which we at once followed. From the amount of 
recently broken twigs and branches, and from the looks 
of the grass and flowers, trodden down by the big feet, 
we understood that the elephant had passed only about 
one hour ahead of us, and that he was moving along slowly. 
Therefore, after finding that the wind was " right," we 
pursued our prey as quickly as possible. The grass in the 
open places between the bushes and trees was fully twelve 
to fifteen feet high, so that it was impossible to see more 
than a few yards ahead, and I, therefore, sent a man up 
into a large tree along the track to reconnoiter. Quick as 
a squirrel he climbed up half the length of the tree and 
looked around. In another second he was down again, re- 
porting a large bull elephant with big tusks " very near," 
which in the native language may mean anything from 
fifty to five hundred yards ! 

I saw a few paces in front of me a small single rock, 
and, climbing upon the same, got a good view of the mon- 
strous pachyderm just as he swung around and began to 
return the same way he had come, at about two hundred 
yards* distance. As quickly as I could raise the big gun to 
my shoulder, I fired for his back, the only thing that showed 
above the grass. A few angry trumpetings announced that 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

he was wounded, and with a rapidity that the reader would 
think impossible by such a h'lg and clumsy beast as the ele- 
phant, he again whirled around and ran off toward the 
dense forest to our left. Before he had taken many strides, 
however, a second bullet crashed into his left side, fol- 
lowed by furious trumpeting for a moment, and then 
the giant disappeared, the high grass and bush hiding 
the beast completely from our view, as he ran toward the 
Gojito Mountain slopes, crashing down trees and bushes 
in his way. 

Now followed a most wearying chase for hours, up 
and down hill, over streams and through jungles, which 
would have been almost impenetrable if we had not been 
able to follow in the tracks of the forest giant, who was 
bleeding profusely from the two wounds. It seemed as if 
our pursuit was almost useless, and soon the men had be- 
come so tired out that they begged me to give up the chase. 
I almost felt like doing this myself, and when we had come 
down to another little stream, I decided to take a rest there 
for a moment, while I could discuss with the men what 
would be the wisest thing to do. 

As we sat down to rest, we heard the trumpeting of 
the elephant, and, looking up, saw on the mountain side, 
some five hundred yards away, the magnificent beast, his 
two large tusks glittering in the sunlight! This was the 
first time we had been able to see the whole size of the 
elephant, and not before that moment had I known that we 
had been tracking an unusually large " tusker." This sight 
gave us all new courage, and on we went, swifter than 
before, in his pursuit. After another half hour we had 
evidently come up a good deal closer to the elephant, and 

63 



THE BTG GAME OF AFRICA 

we all began to feel the earnestness of the situation, for 
nothing is more terrible to meet in " jungleland " than a 
wounded elephant. 

Fortunately for us, the wind had been in our favor so 
far, so that the elephant had not been able to get our scent, 
and, as he himself made a great deal more noise than we, 
he could not even have heard us. A few moments later 
the elephant suddenly turned completely around, and now 
we had to follow him down the wind. We understood that 
from this moment we had to be doubly careful, for the 
elephant was now able to scent us as we came along. 

We stopped for a moment to consult. I told all of the 
men to stay somewhat behind, and with only Mabruki, 
the gun bearer, and my Kikuju headman, Moeri, I took up 
the pursuit again, after once more having examined my 
elephant gun and seen that it was loaded with two steel- 
pointed bullets. So on we went again, slowly and carefully. 
We had not gone thus more than about five minutes before 
we suddenly were faced by the huge elephant, which had 
made a complete half circle. Turning back close to his 
own track, he had stood immovable for some time in the 
thick bushes, waiting for his pursuers to come along. 

One of the most glorious sights met us ! The elephant, 
larger in size than the well-known Jumbo, was almost upon 
us, when we caught sight of him ! With his enormous ears 
spread out, measuring fully ten feet from tip to tip, and 
with his trunk bent up almost in an *' S " form, he made 
a wild dash forward, charging down upon us most furi- 
ously. For a moment I thought of what I had often heard 
about the impossibility of killing an African elephant with 
a front head shot, but, as escape was impossible, I aimed 

64 




^m^ 




^wm 



#^*.:? 




Elephants Coming through High Bush and Elephant Grass, Kisili, 

1909. 




A Splendid Trophy : A Big Bull Elephant Killed near the 

GojiTO Mountains, 1906. 

The head is now in the New York Zoological Park. It is said to be the 

largest mounted elephant head on record and weighs 1,750 pounds. 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

quickly for the center of his head in a Hne a Httle above 
the eyes, and pulled the trigger ! Before the sound of the 
gun had died away, the forest giant lay dead at my very 
feet ! I was so surprised at the quick execution of the bul- 
let that I remained standing for a moment or two with the 
gun at my shoulder, ready to fire the second barrel if the 
elephant had moved again, but it was all over with him 
forever ! 

My two men had rushed right and left into the jungle, 
when the elephant charged. They and the other natives, 
previously left behind, now came up to congratulate me 
on having had so good luck. The reaction of the moment's 
nerve strain was tremendous. Just when the elephant 
charged down on us I was as calm as when writing these 
lines, and to that and my quick aim is due the fact that 
I live to tell the tale ; but after it was all over, sitting down 
on one of the tusks of the fallen monarch, I felt quite dizzy 
for a moment, and noticed a slight tremor of the hands. 

We soon had made a little clearing to enable me to make 
some good photographs of the dead elephant. Although 
my taxidermist, Mr. Lang, and a good many more men 
had been brought up from the camp, it was impossible for 
us to finish skinning the huge beast that day. We, there- 
fore, left a number of men at the place to sleep overnight 
by the carcass, and to make a big fire to keep away the 
lions and leopards, which otherwise would have spoiled 
the skin. 

The next day was the " glorious Fourth," and, as Mr. 
Lang volunteered to take the men up himself to the ele- 
phant and bring down the trophy, I decided to stay in camp 
and rest, as I had also a good deal of writing to do. The 

6s 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

reader will perhaps bear with nic if I here quote a few 
lines directly from my diary, written on this same Fourth 
of July, 1906: "Toward evening Mr. Lang and his men 
arrived with the elephant skin, head and feet, it looking 
very much like a big funeral procession as they all de- 
scended from the escarpment into the valley and slowly 
and carefully crossed the Meroroni River to the monot- 
onous and doleful tunes of their native songs ! 

" Yesterday, as I for the last time looked around where 
the fallen elephant lay, solemn thoughts came to my mind. 
There stood, dead and bare, an enormous cedar tree, and 
almost at its very * feet ' lay, slain by human hands in an 
instant, and with a comparatively small bullet, the largest 
of the remnant of the mightiest of beasts! Looking at 
both, a great sadness fell over me and I went away silently 
toward camp in the light of the shining moon. . . ." 

We found when measuring the elephant that his length 
was 24' y" ', height from the shoulders, 11' 4''; around the 
chest, 18' y" \ length of the trunk, 8' 6" \ circumference 
of one of the front legs, 5' 2" \ length of tusks, 7' 2''; and 
weight of same, 168 pounds. 

A few years later, when tracking elephants through 
high grass and partly dense bush in the Kisii country, we 
ran into a herd of about two hundred elephants of all sizes 
and ages, including two very large bulls. As we were 
trying to close in on them to get nearer to these splendid 
" tuskers," I noticed to my utter surprise that two of the 
young bulls actually sazv us at over two hundred yards' 
distance! It is generally believed that the elephant is 
very nearsighted, but in this case they must have seen 
us, as we walked along, for they could not possibly have 

66 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

scented us, for a fairly strong wind was blowing from the 
herd in our faces. Neither could they at this time have 
heard us, for, walking along in the wide elephant tracks, 
we went too silently for them to have detected us, even 
if at much closer quarters. 

These two bulls instantly gave the alarm, and the whole 
herd began to move down in our direction. I succeeded 
now in dropping one of the big tuskers, when, from the 
report of the gun, the whole herd suddenly stampeded, 
breaking down everything in front of them in their mad 
attempt to avenge themselves on their two-legged enemies. 
We could do absolutely nothing but remain where we stood, 
the elephant grass being so high, and the bush so dense 
that the big animals were now entirely hidden from view. 
Hearing how the herd came nearer and nearer, angrily 
trumpeting and making a terrific noise, as trees and bushes 
were crushed before them, some of my men broke away 
and ran. Suddenly a big elephant head shot out of the 
high grass right in front of us, but in the next instant the 
monster fell in a heap, with a bullet through its head 
from the small 6.5 millimeter Mannlicher rifle. I had 
exchanged the big .577 elephant gun for this excellent 
little weapon, the Mannlicher, having six shots to the oth- 
er's two, without reloading. Unfortunately this elephant 
proved to be a female, and although the tusks were fairly 
long, they were afterwards confiscated by the government, 
as they did not together weigh sixty pounds. A few sec- 
onds later I again had to shoot in self-defense. This time 
it was a full-grown young bull with a pair of fine, although 
small, tusks weighing only forty-eight pounds. He also 
fell in his tracks, hit by two little Mannlicher bullets, only 

67 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

at some seven yards' distance from where we stood, which, 
fired in quick succession, had entered the center of his 
head. 

Not quite so lucky was a German Heutenant, who in the 
fall of 1909 was out elephant shooting in the vicinity of 
the Kivu Lake, to the southwest of the Ruwenzori Moun- 
tains. He had, with a few black followers, run into a 
small herd of elephants, among which was one large bull, 
which he stalked for a few minutes. Suddenly the ele- 
phant got a whiff of his wind, and, without even being 
shot at, whirled around and charged down on his pursuer 
through the grass. Although the lieutenant fired not less 
than five shots into the big elephant's head, emptying his 
whole magazine, he failed to reach the deadly spot, the 
center of its brain. In the next instant the infuriated bull 
caught him up with his trunk and threw him high in the 
air. As soon as he fell to the ground the elephant rushed 
at him again, putting one of its big tusks right through 
the unfortunate hunter, who was subsequently crushed into 
an unrecognizable mass under its forefeet, while this whole 
tragedy was witnessed by his cowardly black trackers and 
hunters from nearby trees ! 

One of the most marvelous escapes ever recorded was 
experienced by the famous elephant hunter, F. C. Selous. 
It was in the early days, some thirty years ago, when Mr. 
Selous was elephant hunting south of the Zambezi River. 
He had shot several elephants one day, when on horseback, 
and was just returning toward camp, when he espied an- 
other big " tusker," which he wanted to bag. At this time 
Mr. Selous used a single-barreled breech-loading gun of 
very large bore. He jumped from his horse and fired at 

68 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

the big bull, aiming for his heart. The shot, having missed 
the deadly spot, made the elephant charge him at once. 
Mr. Selous had to fling himself upon his horse before he 
could put another cartridge in his rifle, and with the breech 
still open he tried to escape by galloping away, as he had 
done so often before. His horse was, however, so tired 
out after the hard work of the day that the elephant gained 
on him every second. 

The last he could remember, Mr. Selous relates, was a 
terrific scream right over his head. The next moment he 
was knocked unconscious. When he regained conscious- 
ness he found himself in a rather peculiar position. He 
was actually lying between the two tusks of the elephant, 
with the blood of the latter pouring down upon him from 
a wound in the chest. Mr. Selous was saved only by the 
strange fact that the elephant, when trying to gore him 
with his tusks, missed him by an inch or so, and from 
the great impetus of the charge these buried themselves 
so deep in the ground that he had not succeeded in extri- 
cating them. Mr. Selous lay for a second perfectly quiet, 
thinking over what would be the best thing to do under 
the circumstances. Finally, seeing an opening between the 
elephant's front legs, he made a desperate effort to regain 
his liberty, squeezed through this " gate " and escaped. 
Strange to say, before Mr. Selous could get hold of his 
gun, which had been dropped some distance away, the 
elephant managed to extricate its tusks and disappeared, 
never to be found again. 

It was my great privilege to be a fellow passenger with 
both Colonel Roosevelt and Mr. Selous when they, in 
April, 1909, went cut to Africa. Almost every evening 

69 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

after dinner Colonel Roosevelt, Mr. Selous, a few other 
fellow passengers and myself used to spend some time in 
telling our experiences as hunters in different parts of the 
world, and it was during these evening hours that we had 
the privilege of listening to the wonderful experiences of 
Mr. Selous, without a question the most successful lion 
and elephant hunter alive. Another of Mr. Selous's 
stories, of the truth of which we were all persuaded, ran 
about as follows: 

" One evening shortly before he returned to his camp 
he saw a good-sized ' tusker,' at which he fired. With a 
crash the elephant went down, and was lying motionless 
on the ground, when Mr. Selous arrived on the spot. Be- 
ing very much tired out, he sat down on the side of the 
elephant to take a much-needed rest, after which he decided 
to go home to camp for the night, it being too late to 
cut out the tusks that evening. Before leaving the fallen 
monarch, he cut ofif his tail to have something to show 
when he would arrive in camp. The next morning he sent 
some of his natives back to chop out the tusks, while he 
was going out in a different direction to look for other 
elephants. 

" Returning in the afternoon to camp, he was very 
much surprised and disgusted not to find the tusks of 
his elephant. He became still more surprised when the 
men told him that they had been at the spot where the 
elephant fell, but had failed to find any trace of him. Of 
course, Mr. Selous, therefore, at once started for the place 
and found, to his utter amazement, that the huge beast, 
which he had believed dead, and on which he had rested 
the evening before, had not been killed after all, but was 

70 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

still roaming around somewhere in the vicinity, now minus 
his tail." 

This and another incident which I will relate in the 
chapter on Antelopes, go to show how necessary it is to 
put an extra shot into the head of any big and dangerous 
beast that has been apparently killed, for there have been 
a good many instances where ferocious animals have only 
been stunned for the moment by the bullet just grazing 
the spine, and then been able to get up again and kill 
their assailants unawares, when suddenly awakened to 
consciousness. 

It is most interesting to watch a herd of elephants feed, 
play, or rest when they are undisturbed. The larger ones 
often help the " babies " by breaking down branches or 
whole trees to make it more easy for them to feed. On 
Kenia I once found that a perfectly sound tree, measuring 
thirty-three and a half inches in circumference, had been 
broken off by an elephant, about seven feet from the 
ground! This shows that a man has to climb a good- 
sized tree if he wants to be safe from elephants, whose 
destructiveness is appalling. Very often a few of these 
beasts may, for instance, in a single night spoil a whole 
plantation of sugar cane, of a dozen or more acres, tramp- 
ling down what they do not devour. Elephants have often 
even broken down native huts and killed their inhabitants 
in an effort to get at sugar cane and other coveted " deli- 
cacies," when they had suspected the presence of such in 
the huts. 

The wild Wandorobbo and other native hunters kill 
elephants in different ways. Sometimes they make big 
pits with or without sharp poles, stuck into the bottom, 

71 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

while the hole is carefully covered over with branches and 
grass. The pit is generally dug right in a regular ele- 
phant path, so that when the huge beast strolls along in 
his old track, suspecting no danger, he suddenly steps on 
the frail " roof " and falls headlong into the pit, where he 
is then killed by the natives with their long, sharp spears. 
Another and more " sporty " way is this : The hunter, 
armed only with a short, sharp steel spear, stuck into a very 
heavy, wooden shaft, climbs up a big tree, overhanging 
the elephant path, where he expects the animal to come 
along. When the unsuspecting elephant reaches the tree, 
the bushman throws his heavy, double spear with all his 
strength down into its back, the spear often penetrating 
to the heart. The iron or steel point of the spear, some- 
times also poisoned, remains in the body of the elephant, 
while the heavy wooden shaft falls off and can be used 
again. The elephant, thus wounded by the poisoned spear 
or arrow, will, if not hit through heart or lungs, go on for 
several hours before he falls, closely followed by his slayers. 
These, then, do not only take out the tusks, but feast on 
the flesh with relatives and friends, until there is not 
enough left of the carcass to attract even hyenas or jackals ! 
Some natives are courageous enough to track the for- 
est giant in an entirely different way. Armed with a 
heavy, sharp sword, they follow their intended victim care- 
fully, until he is within touching distance, which, for 
naked, light-footed savages, is not a difficult task if the 
wind is " right." Then with a couple of terrific cuts they 
sever the sinews of the elephant's hind legs above the feet, 
which make it impossible for the animal to take another 
step. The powerless beast is then killed, either by being 

72 



THE ELEPHANT, THE GIANT OF THE FOREST 

hit through its heart by a spear, or by being shot with poi- 
soned arrows. 

The Wandorobbo, who once acted as my guide in the 
Kenia Province, told me of how the rhinos feared the 
elephants, and how he had once been an eyewitness to a 
fight between a large rhino and a full-grown, young ele- 
phant bull. The rhino was a female, which was lying down 
together with her small calf. Suddenly hearing the noise 
of the elephant near its " baby," the rhino rushed up to 
defend its offspring, apparently not knowing what it did. 
The next moment the elephant had its trunk round the 
rhino's neck, threw it to the ground and gored it to death 
in an instant with its powerful tusks. Then he walked oflf, 
trumpeting as if triumphing over his victory. Needless 
to say, the Wandorobbo feasted upon the dead rhino, and 
even killed the young one, as it returned the next day to 
look for its mother. 

Most people, including even a good many African 
hunters, affirm that the elephant never lies down to sleep 
or rest. Although I had repeatedly heard natives say that 
they had seen elephants lie down, both on their sides and 
on their belly, I would not believe it, until so eminent a 
naturalist and explorer as Dr. Carl Peters himself told 
me that he had actually tzvice seen elephants, that were not 
wounded, lying down resting. Another German, the ele- 
phant hunter Mr. G. Ringler, tells how his own brother 
was crushed to death by an elephant, which he thought 
was already dead, when he found it lying motionless on 
its side, as he had just a moment before shot at a large 
bull. Mr. Ringler went up to the sleeping monster without 
hesitation, but as he touched the elephant it started up with 

73 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

lightninglike rapidity, caught hold of the unsuspecting 
hunter, and before his brother, who was only a few yards 
away, could kill the brute, the unfortunate sportsman was 
dashed against a rock and instantly killed. Mr. Ringler 
also confirmed the curious story of native hunters that 
the elephants in a certain district in German East Africa 
like to eat a kind of root, which makes them so intoxicated 
that they lie down and sleep hard enough for the natives 
to be able to kill them easily with swords or spears. 

Among hunting trophies none can be compared with 
a well mounted head of a big tusker. The writer was 
fortunate enough to get home a perfect head skin of one 
of his big elephants, with tusks over seven feet in length. 
The whole head, mounted, weighs over one thousand seven 
hundred pounds. The tip of the trunk projects almost 
fourteen feet from the wall, and the head measures over 
ten feet from tip to tip of the mighty ears! This mag- 
nificent and especially well-mounted trophy is at present 
on exhibition in the New York Zoological Park, Bronx, 
among the National Collection of Heads and Horns. 



CHAPTER V 

THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

The tallest of all living creatures is without doubt the 
giraffe. When seen in the open or even in thin bush coun- 
try, he reminds one very much of the curious creatures of 
prehistoric times, exhibited in the museums of natural 
history, so queer does he seem. Giraffes exist now only in 
Africa, although a good many discoveries of fossils show 
that they, like a good many other huge tropical animals 
of ages past, were formerly found also among the hills 
and valleys of southern Europe, Persia, and India. The 
giraffe is a kind of link between the deer family and the 
bovine animals, such as oxen and buffaloes, being, like 
the latter two, a cud-chewer. 

The hairy horns of the giraffe are in young calfs easily 
separable from the bone of the skull, but the inside core 
grows in time together with the head bones, like the horns 
of oxen or buffaloes. The giraffe's eyes are of a deep 
brown color, with large pupils and long bushy lashes, and 
they are wonderfully soft and beautiful. The tongue is 
extremely rough, a very necessary quality, as the animal 
feeds chiefly from the thorny desert trees, and it is un- 
usually long, measuring from fifteen to eighteen inches. 
The upper, prehensile lip is also very long, tough, and 
covered with thick, short hair, so as to enable the giraffe 

75 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

to feed more easily upon the mimosa tree without getting 
stung by the sharp thorns. 

One of the most curious-looking sights in Africa is a 
herd of giraffes trotting off with a sort of rocking-horse, 
single-foot motion, with their enormous necks carried a 
trifle lower than the line of their backs. The animals stand 
much higher over the shoulders than over the pelvis. Al- 
though absolutely harmless and mild-tempered, the giraffe 
is, on account of its unusual height, sometimes a " menace " 
to civilization in British East Africa, for it has repeatedly 
happened that a big bull-giraffe has forgotten to " duck " 
when crossing the telegraph line along the Uganda Rail- 
road, broken the wire with his lofty head, and thus dis- 
turbed communication. 

The great height of the giraffe enables him to eat the 
young shoots and leaves off the topmost branches of the 
mimosa and other trees, which constitute his chief 
*' menu " ; but it makes it, on the other hand, very awkward 
for him to partake of the " salt licks " on the ground, or 
drink from a shallow water hole or stream, for he has 
then to spread out his front legs so far, to be able to reach 
the water, or the ground, that it takes him a considerable 
time to get up and away again if disturbed. 

Fortunately for the giraffe, he seems to need but little 
water, and in this respect he is very much like the camel, 
which animal reminds one more of the giraffe than any 
other living creature. The natives of different districts 
in British East Africa have assured me that the giraffe 
can go for many weeks and even months without drink- 
ing, and this partly explains the fact that he is mostly 
found in dry and practically waterless countries. Such 

"6 



THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

favorite feeding grounds are, for instance, the Seringetti 
Plains, between Kilima-Njaro and Voi on the Uganda 
Railroad, and in the thorn and fiber plant deserts around 
the latter place. He is also found in the central parts of 
the Protectorate, to the northeast of the Athi Plains, which 
he occasionally crosses over to the big Southern Game 
Reserve. In the northern part of the Protectorate he is 
abundant both north of Mt. Kenia and the Guasco Narok 
river, in the partly waterless Samburu country, and on the 
Guas Ngishu Plateau, southeast of Mt. Elgon. As the 
dew is generally very heavy in these districts, he may get 
almost all the water he needs from the dew-covered leaves 
that he eats in the early morning. 

Almost every animal makes some kind of a sound when 
angry, wounded, or when wanting to " communicate " with 
other members of its family, but the giraffe seems to be 
absolutely mute. I have asked several hunters, who have 
had opportunity to observe a great many giraffes at close 
quarters, about the muteness of this animal, and they have 
all assured me that they never heard the giraffe utter a 
sound of any kind, neither when pursued, scattered, cor- 
nered, wounded, or dying. This native trackers and 
hunters all over East Africa have also repeatedly cor- 
roborated. 

In 1906, not far from the Maungu station on the 
Uganda Railroad, I shot my largest giraffe, which meas- 
ured over seventeen feet in height. We had started from 
our camp at Maungu long before daybreak in search of 
a big giraffe, which was reported as having been seen 
the previous day from the railroad. After having marched 
for over an hour, feeling our way in the dark, I suddenly 
7 yy 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

stopped in the twilight, seeing a small object falling down 
from the branches of a mimosa tree. In the twinkling of 
an eye I saw an animal run up in the tree, only to drop 
down again the next second like a ball into the high grass. 
My first thought was to take the shotgun and bring the 
animal down, but fearing that the giraffe might be in the 
vicinity and take alarm from the crack of the gun, I whis- 
pered to some of the natives to rush forward the next 
time the animal fell to the ground and throw themselves 
over it. They did so, far quicker than I could imagine, 
for the next moment one of the men rose from the grass 
holding between his hands a beautiful Civet cat, which 
had injured him considerably with its sharp claws and 
teeth. 

I was right in my supposition about the giraffe, for 
we had only gone forward some fifteen minutes more, 
when I saw a large giraffe head towering above a good- 
sized mimosa tree some five hundred yards away. By 
this time it was light enough both to shoot and to take 
photographs, and, as I was very anxious to have this mag- 
nificent animal " kodaked " before it should fall, I ordered 
my men to throw themselves flat on the ground, and with 
only Mr. Lang, the expedition's taxidermist and photog- 
rapher, and one gun bearer, I approached the girafife as 
carefully as possible. When within about one hundred and 
fifty yards, the giraffe had caught a glimpse of us from 
his exalted viewpoint and started to walk away with long 
strides before it was possible for Mr. Lang to snap him 
with his camera. I then raised my .405 Winchester and 
fired, aiming at his heart, but the girafife continued his 
walk as if nothing had happened. I fired a second and a 

78 







rW: 



k. ^id 



^"'ji#. 



^Hl^. 



Large Bull Giraffe; Shot through the Heart near Maungu 
R. R. Station. 




Bull Giraffe in the Mimosa Jungle on Laikipia. 
Note how his bright coloring blends perfectly with the sunlight and shadow 

in the landscape. 



THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

third time, but with the same result. I knew that I must 
have hit the animal, and said to the gun bearer : *' He must 
have a charmed life; give me the big gun." This was 
the powerful .577 Express rifle, by the natives called 
" msinga " (cannon). 

We had in the meantime kept pace with the giraffe, as 
he was still simply walking away, and at about the same 
distance I fired with the big gun, aiming again for his 
heart. Now the big bull instantly stopped and allowed us 
to come right up to him. This splendid opportunity was 
used by us to make some good pictures of the old giraffe, 
which tried in vain to walk away from the spot. He 
could evidently only lift one of his front legs a little. 
There he stood, without uttering a single sound, looking 
straight at us for a few minutes. Then his hind legs gave 
away, and suddenly he toppled over backwards and fell 
dead. 

The fact was disclosed, when we were skinning the 
animal, that all the three " soft-nose " bullets fired from 
the Winchester had only penetrated his skin, which is about 
an inch thick, and lodged in the ribs right over the heart, 
not more than a few inches apart from each other, whereas 
the one steel-capped bullet from the .577 Express had 
crashed through the side of the giraffe, penetrated its 
heart, broken two ribs on the opposite side and almost pro- 
truded through the skin! As the wounded giraffe looked 
up at me with his beautiful eyes, I felt that, had it not 
been for the sake of the American Museum of Natural His- 
tory in New York, for which I was collecting specimens 
of big game at the time, I would never have forgiven 
myself for killing this magnificent animal. I thought, 

79 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

however, that he was more worthy of being admired by 
thousands of intelHgent Americans in one of the finest 
museums of the world, than to continue to roam around, 
hidden in the jungles of Africa, and one day to die of old 
age, or fall an easy prey to a bloodthirsty lion! 

It probably very seldom happens that a full-grown, 
healthy girafife is attacked, or killed by a single lion, un- 
less suddenly overtaken, when, for instance, in a drinking 
position, when old and feeble, or sick. For with his power- 
ful front feet he could well beat back and even kill a lion. 
A cow giraffe was once seen attacking a lion which tried 
to kill its calf. The furious mother drove off the lion with 
its forefeet, but also unfortunately hit its own " baby " 
with one of the blows, instantly breaking its back and kill- 
ing it on the spot. A German settler from the country 
southwest of Kilimanjaro told me that he had succeeded 
in capturing a number of wild animals, which he subse- 
quently had sold to the well-known wild animal merchant, 
Mr. Hagenbeck, of Hamburg, who near that city has one 
of the finest private zoological gardens in the world, which 
is well worth a visit. The German settler also wanted to 
capture young giraffes, but had, according to his own 
almost incredible story, repeatedly been " driven off " by 
their desperate mothers, as he was not allowed to shoot 
them, according to the game laws of German East Africa. 
One day, however, he succeeded in separating a young 
giraffe from the herd, and with his black helpers he got 
hold of the " baby," which, although probably but a few 
months old, stood fully nine feet high. After a hard strug- 
gle, during which two of the negroes had been rather 
badly hurt by kicks, but during which ordeal, to use my 

80 



THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

spokesman's own expression, the " youngster never said 
a word," the young giraffe was finally overpowered and 
driven into the " shamba," or farm, where it, in a very few 
days, became so tame that it followed its capturers around 
like a dog, freely mingling with the cattle. 

But, alas ! a couple of days before it was to be shipped 
down to the coast, it quite suddenly developed some malig- 
nant disease, growing thinner and weaker every day. One 
evening it did not return home with the cattle, and when 
the people went out to look for the giraffe, it was found 
dead under a mimosa tree, with two leopards feasting upon 
its body. Whether slain by these cunning and powerful 
bush animals, before it had died from its disease, or 
whether it was found already dead by the leopards, could 
not be ascertained, as the big felines had already devoured 
too much of it. Later on I shall tell the circumstances 
under which these two leopards were subsequently killed. 

A British sportsman and settler who keeps a regular 
" shooting box " in the lower Kedong valley, only a day's 
march from the Kijabe Railroad station, a Mr. Barker, 
a great animal lover, succeeded also recently in capturing 
a young giraffe, which soon became very tame. Some- 
times, when " just playing," this beautiful animal hurt 
several of the men by " friendly kicks " from its powerful 
hoofs. Even this young giraffe developed some disease 
and soon died, in spite of the best of care. These cases 
show that, although it may be comparatively easy to cap- 
ture and tame a " baby " giraffe, it is very difficult to bring 
it up on ordinary cow's milk or artificial food until it is 
old enough to make its own '* living " from trees and 
shrubs. 

8i 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

There is little or no real sport or excitement in giraffe 
hunting, for, as already remarked, the animals are abso- 
lutely harmless and will never, even when wounded or 
cornered, really attack a man. On the other hand, as 
the giraffe is exceedingly wary and has doubtlessly good 
scenting qualities, like almost all wild animals, and very 
good eyesight, he is most interesting to stalk with a view 
of obtaining an insight into his habits and of " taking his 
pictures/' 

Tales about charging giraffes should not be taken very 
seriously, for no really authentic case can be found of 
giraffes actually charging a hunter. On my first trip to 
Africa I had shot a large bull giraffe near the little Koma 
Rock, on the northwestern part of the Athi Plains. As 
soon as the bullet hit the animal it went down, and when 
Mr. Lang and I ran up to the bull and had got up to 
within fifteen yards of him, he gathered all his last 
strength, got up and staggered toward us before he, hit 
by another bullet, went down, never to move again. We 
were both absolutely sure that the wounded giraffe never 
intended anything in the way of a charge, but that he was 
so bewildered from pain and excitement that he simply 
did not know what he did. Mr. Lang remarked to me that 
probably a good many " nervous " hunters, with vivid 
enough imagination, would be able to construct out of this 
occurrence a " terrific charge." 

When a fresh giraffe track is found, it is generally not 
so difficult to follow, for the great weight of the animal 
impresses his large hoofs in the soil deep enough to be 
readily seen by any man, even with a limited experience in 
tracking. The imprints of the giraffe's hoofs are very 

82 



THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

much like those made by the oxen, although considerably 
larger and more oval. Some of the giraffe countries are 
very " thick " — i. e., overgrown with thorn and mimosa 
trees and the strange-looking euphorbia, a cactus-like plant 
which grows up into large, often queer-shaped, trees, while 
the sharp-pointed seesal, or fiber plant — from which a 
superior kind of rope is made — mercilessly stings right 
through trousers, leggings, and even the thickest boots. 
If the track is quite fresh and the wind " right," one may 
soon catch up with a giraffe, if he thinks himself undis- 
turbed, and it is very interesting indeed to observe the 
huge animal feasting among the top branches of his fa- 
vorite trees. He may stroll from tree to tree of apparently 
not only the same kind, but also in the very same condi- 
tion, and yet some of them he will just only sniff at, while 
of the others he seems greatly to enjoy the leaves and 
young shoots. Great care has to be taken in the stalking 
of the giraffe, for from his exalted position he will very 
quickly notice anything that moves anywhere within a 
radius of several hundred yards or more, if the stalker is 
not well hidden behind some thick cover. 

The last giraffe I stalked I found on the beautiful 
Laikipia Plateau, not far from the upper part of the Gar- 
domurtu River, and southwest of that stream. When I 
first noticed his track across our path, it ran down in the 
very direction from which we had come. Concluding, 
therefore, that we already must have been noticed by the 
wary animal — for I was at the time trekking along with 
over sixty men — I did not intend to follow this track. 
I then told my men to wait a few seconds and then fol- 
low at some distance, as quietly as possible, in case there 

83 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

would be any other giraffes in the vicinity. Hardly had 
I given this order before I saw something queer-looking 
moving in the top of a mimosa tree, some one hundred and 
fifty yards away and right in front of us. At first we 
thought it was a marabout stork or some other big 
bird, but soon we discovered the two front horns and 
the ears of a girafTe. The caravan was now ordered 
to sit down on the ground behind trees and bushes 
and not to talk or move before I signaled to them to 
come on. 

With only one of the gun bearers to carry my Win- 
chester, I took my camera and began carefully to stalk the 
giraffe. It has often been remarked that if the coloring 
of animals is supposed to hide them from their enemies, 
or to make it easier for certain animals to catch their 
prey, the giraffe in that respect would be very unfortunate, 
with his bright and strangely checkered coat. I myself had 
thought so several times before, when seeing giraffes on 
the open prairies, where they are only found when trek- 
king between their regular feeding grounds. This time, 
however, I had to change my mind. It was just about 
eleven o'clock on a cloudless day when, in spite of the 
altitude of over 7,000 feet, the sun was very powerful, 
for this part of the country lies exactly on the equator. 
Now, as the strong, bright sunlight and the deep shadows 
of the branches and leaves interweaved into one wonder- 
ful " carpet," the big bull giraffe was, even at fifty yards, 
hard to make out, except when moving, so perfectly did 
his big dark and bright spots blend with the whole sun- 
flooded landscape! A passing look at the picture facing 
page 78 will prove how protective the giraffe's coat is under 

84 



THE HARMLESS GIRAFFE 

the above circumstances even at twenty-five yards, from 
which distance it was taken. 

The tall bull now saw me, stopped eating, and looked 
carefully around; but as my gun bearer lay prostrated on 
the ground behind a tree, and I remained perfectly im- 
movable in a kneeling position, from which I had taken 
the above picture, the giraffe seemed to think that he had 
made a mistake, and soon began to feed again from the 
top of the mimosa tree, every second or so looking in my 
direction to be on his guard. By being exceedingly care- 
ful to watch all his movements, I succeeded in creeping 
unnoticed still more forward, until I had taken two more 
photos, one at twenty and the other at fifteen yards, both of 
which pictures unfortunately became sunstruck in some in- 
explicable way, but which show how near it is possible to 
creep up even to a wary giraffe, if one uses but a little 
patience and cunning. As my roll of films was exhausted, 
and it being entirely out of the question to recharge the 
camera unnoticed then and there, I quietly rose and walked 
with empty hands up toward the giraffe. Still he did not 
notice me — a good wind blowing steadily from the animal 
to me — before I had got up to within six or seven yards 
of the magnificent old bull ! Then he made off at a heavy 
gallop, increasing his speed as I shouted my thanks for 
his " posing." 

There are in East Africa at least two distinctly dif- 
ferent species of giraffe, which, however, in reality differ 
very little from each other. The only marked difference 
between these two species is the shape of their heads, or 
rather, the number of horns. The ordinary giraffe found 
in the central and southeastern part of the Protectorate 

85 



THE BIG GAME. OF AFRICA 

has two horns with a rather pronounced bump in front 
below the horns. The other variety, the so-called five- 
horned giraffe, which is generally found on the Guaso 
Ngishu Plateau, has, behind the ordinary two horns, two 
smaller hornlike projections — hardly worth the name of 
horns — and the bump on the forehead grown out into a 
more hornlike projection than that of the ordinary giraffe. 
The height and color of the giraffes vary greatly. The 
younger the giraffe is, the lighter is his skin, and it is only 
the old bulls that have very dark, brown spots. The height 
of giraffes varies a good deal. Full-grown males have 
been shot in Africa measuring from sixteen to seventeen 
feet six inches. Record bulls of South Africa have been 
as tall as nineteen feet and over, but in that part of the 
country the Boers have now almost exterminated the 
stately animal. The reason for this was that the white 
settlers coveted both the giraffe's meat and the skin, which 
they use for harness, traces, and whips. The natives also 
kill the giraffe whenever they have a chance to, partly 
because they are very fond of its meat and the great 
amount of marrow in its big leg bones, and partly because 
they use the strong sinews of the animal for their bow- 
strings, instead of twine, and for the strings of a kind of 
rude musical instrument, on which they play their weary 
monotonous tunes. 



CHAPTER VI 

THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

But two species of hippopotamus exist, and both are 
now confined to Africa. The Httle Liberian, or pygmy 
hippo, Hves, as his name indicates, in West Africa, where 
he rarely attains a height over the shoulders of more than 
some two feet six inches, while the whole length of his 
body does not exceed six feet. The so-called common hip- 
popotamus is now only found in the central parts of Africa 
— i. e., not farther north than the upper Nile, south of 
Khartum, and not below the Orange River, although only 
a few decades ago he was very common all over South 
Africa. 

Van Riebeck, the Dutchman, reports having seen hip- 
pos in 1652 in a swamp, now occupied by Church Square, 
in the very center of the present Cape Town, and the 
last hippo in that district was killed in 1874. In prehis- 
toric times even these big pachyderms were distributed 
over a much larger area, well-preserved fossils giving evi- 
dence of their existence in lower Egypt and southern Eu- 
rope, where exactly the same species roamed around as 
far north as England, the river Thames being one of their 
favorite haunts. 

The hippopotamus, or " river horse," as the name is 
to be interpreted, forms a family all of his own. The 

87 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

early Dutch settlers called him " lake cow," the Arabs 
sometimes " lake buffalo." The ancient Egyptians, how- 
ever, used the name " river hog " for the huge mammal, 
which from a zoological point of view is the most befitting 
name of all, for in his habits and general appearance he 
is more like the pig than any other existing animal. The 
meat of the hippo, and the great amount of fat, which 
he generally carries under his thick skin, are also very 
much like that of the pig. 

The hippopotamus is next to the elephant the " bulki- 
est " land animal in existence. It is not unusual for a full- 
grown hippo to measure anywhere from twelve to thirteen 
feet in length, the line taken from the tip of the nose to the 
root of the short, stiff, and flattened tail. Sir Samuel 
Baker once killed an old bull which measured fourteen 
feet three inches, including a tail of nine inches in length. 
A large hippo, which died a few years ago in the London 
Zoological Garden, was over twelve feet in length, and 
weighed somewhat more than four tons. The color of the 
skin varies between almost black to dark brown, dark slate, 
pinkish brown on the belly, and sometimes almost light 
gray, which latter color has occasioned some naturalists 
to give him the name of " white hippo." 

Of all animals none is perhaps more hideous-looking 
than the clumsy hippo, with his enormous mouth, mam- 
moth lips, big tusks, disproportionately small eyes and ears, 
ponderous piglike body, and short legs ! His heavy, wob- 
bling gait, when on land, he can suddenly change into a 
similar trot when frightened, and I have heard hunters 
say, although it seems almost incredible, that a hippo is 
even able to gallop, when hotly pursued and is trying to 

88 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

rush into some nearby water. Once there, he feels safe 
again, and if the water is that of a good-sized lake or 
large river, he is soon practically out of harm's way, for 
although the hippo has to put his nose up over the sur- 
face of the water to breathe, at least every two or three 
minutes, he usually does this with such rapidity, when 
alarmed, that it is exceedingly difficult to get a shot 
at him. 

The only method of instantly killing a hippo is to shoot 
him through the brain and, as under ordinary circum- 
stances, the whole head of the hippo is exposed over the 
water ; this is very easy indeed, unless the wary river horse 
knows that he is in danger. Then he is so cunning that 
an accurate shot is almost impossible, for the hippo is 
able to place his body at such an angle to the surface that, 
when he is exhaling the foul air, or inhaling the fresh, he 
only shows the mere nostrils above the water, and the 
upper vulnerable part of the head is held sufficiently low 
so as to make a shot of no effect at all. Another trick that 
the wary monster plays is this: Instead of exhaling and 
inhaling in quick succession as he usually does, giving the 
hunter thus two or three seconds in which to turn in the 
right direction and shoot, he just barely brings the nos- 
trils to the surface of the water and " puffs " out the foul 
air, only to disappear instantly. Then he moves a few 
yards away in another direction, before he raises his nos- 
trils again, this time a trifle higher, to take a deep breath 
of fresh air, before he again sinks out of sight. 

It certainly is most remarkable how well the hippo is 
able to deceive his pursuers when in his favorable ele- 
ment, the water. After he has breathed in a place as 

89 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

above described, he will often swim a good distance in 
the water, until he suddenly " bobs up " where the hunter 
least expects him. Sometimes when the river or lake 
shores are overgrown with trees and bushes, overlapping 
the water's edge, the big pachyderm will try to hide under 
such cover, or in the deep shadow of overhanging rocks, 
where he lies absolutely motionless, with eyes, ears, and 
nostrils just above water, and is thus seldom detected. 

Once I came upon a hippo — in fact, the first I ever saw 
outside of a zoological garden — in the Athi River, which, 
at that particular place, is only about one hundred and 
fifty feet across, and where the length of the still flowing 
" hippo pool " could not have extended more than eight 
hundred to one thousand yards. The wary " river horse " 
saw me at the same moment that I discovered him. Our 
eyes met for a second, but as soon as I moved to lift the 
gun up to my shoulder, he instantly sank out of sight. 
With eager curiosity I waited with the gun ready to fire, 
expecting the hippo to come up somewhere near the place 
where he had disappeared. Instead of that, I suddenly 
heard his peculiar " snorting " and " puffing " at least 
some three hundred yards farther upstream, while I was 
looking in the opposite direction. 

I had sent some of my men to a place above the 
" hippo pool," where the river was very shallow, to watch 
so that the hippo should not be able to get up and disap- 
pear that way, and I also dispatched some men to go to 
a similar place below the pool, while a dozen or so of the 
rest of the porters were strung along on both sides of the 
pool, a few yards away from the water. There they could 
not be seen by the hippo, while they could watch him, so 

90 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

that he would not be able to disappear in the bush on 
either side. 

After almost an hour of impatient waiting, the big 
head suddenly appeared right in the middle of the pool. 
As I had been ready for an emergency of this kind, I fired 
instantly, but it seemed both to me and the gun bearer, 
who stood close behind, as if the hippo had sunk at the very 
moment I fired, so that the bullet had hit the water right 
over the head instead of the head itself. Still, we were 
not certain whether I had hit the hippo's head or not, so 
the only thing to do was to wait for another hour or two. 
If a hippo has only been wounded, he may swim a great 
distance away and then put up his nostrils under some 
kind of cover, where he lies immovable for hours, breath- 
ing as silently as he can. But when he has been instantly 
killed, he immediately sinks to the bottom, where the body 
remains for from half an hour to two or three hours or 
even more, according to the temperature of the water. 
The warmer the water is, the sooner the gases form in the 
intestines of the dead hippo, and these cause the body to 
rise to the surface, when it can be easily dragged ashore. 
In this case, however, we waited in vain for over four 
hours, from the moment I had shot. Although we scanned 
the pool and all the men watched as carefully as they could, 
none of us ever saw a sign of the hippo, nor heard any 
" snorting," after he had once disappeared. Finally, we 
had to give up our coveted trophy, for it certainly looked 
as if it had sunk out of existence. The cunning beast had 
probably foimd some safe cover, behind which he lay im- 
movable, until he was sure his enemies had vanished. 

Colonel Roosevelt, whom I had the pleasure of meet- 

91 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

ing several times in East Africa during 1909, and who 
most kindly invited me to join his shooting expedition, 
when near Lake Naivasha, told m^e of a most interesting 
experience he had had with a big hippo in that lake. As 
soon as the beast had been wounded, he charged down on 
Colonel Roosevelt, who, with his son Kermit and a few 
negro hunters, had gone out hippo shooting in a good- 
sized rowboat. With open jaws and terrible snorts, the 
big monster made for Colonel Roosevelt's boat as quickly 
as he could, only to receive two deadly shots from the 
colonel's heavy Express rifle right in his very mouth, ^yhile 
Kermit was lucky enough to secure a couple of fairly good 
photographs from the charging beast. This incident has 
since then been published at length. 

A German official, a Mr. C. E. Schmidt, was nearly 
killed by a hippo in the Rufiji River in German East 
Africa under most curious circumstances. With another 
white man and eight natives he was out hippo shooting in 
the above-named big stream, at a place where the river 
widens out considerably, and where the waters were lit- 
erally alive with the big pachyderms. 

The whole party had embarked in a good-sized rowboat 
to tow ashore the bodies of two large hippos that had been 
killed only about half an hour before, but which had 
already appeared on the surface. Mr. Schmidt had taken 
with him a very long and strong rope, to which they 
fastened both bodies. Hardly had the men begun to 
row the boat toward the nearby shore, having only about 
twenty to thirty yards more to cover, and before they 
reached a good landing place, an immense hippo suddenly 
rushed for the boat so quickly that before the sportsman 

92 



I 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

had a chance to fire he had upset the Httle craft with his 
big head. Fortunately, both the white men and the na- 
tives knew how to swim, so they all made for the shore as 
quickly as they could. Immediately one of the men gave 
a tremendous scream, and Mr. Schmidt, turning to see 
what was the trouble, was horrified to behold the big hippo 
just closing his enormous mouth over one of the unfortu- 
nate natives, whom he almost cut in two. All the shoot- 
ing paraphernalia of the two friends — their guns, cartridge 
bags, and hunting knives — were lost when the boat was 
upset, and as the river at that place was very deep and had 
a muddy bottom, they were never able to recover even the 
guns. The natives were so frightened that the two sports- 
men could not induce them to go out in another boat of 
larger size to righten the upset craft and tow ashore the 
two dead hippos. 

In Uganda these monsters are so ferocious and so dan- 
gerous both to native crops and '' shipping " that they had 
been declared a " vermin," the government encouraging 
the killing of them as widely as possible. It has repeatedly 
happened in the waters of Uganda, particularly in the Nile 
and in the Albert Nyanza, that native canoes of good size, 
and even small steam launches, have been upset by these 
powerful beasts. They seem to have found out that sugar 
canes and other " hippo delicacies " are often shipped in 
these crafts. Even if the natives, when their boats were 
thus capsized, have escaped from the hippos, they have 
often been killed and eaten by crocodiles, which are very 
numerous in these waters. In British East Africa, how- 
ever, the hippopotamus is not so numerous ; there is no lake 
or river shipping to be imperiled by them, and the ordi- 
8 93 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

nary sportsman is, therefore, restricted to only two on his 
license. 

Colonel Roosevelt was probably the last man who had 
a chance of shooting hippos in any of the beautiful lakes of 
Nakuru, Elmenteita, or Naivasha, in which latter water he 
shot several hippos during August of 1909, after which 
time, upon the issuance of the new game license, the three 
above-mentioned lakes were declared game preserves for 
hippos. 

In districts where the " river hog " is seldom or not at 
all disturbed, he is often seen resting or sleeping on the 
sand banks in the middle of the rivers, or even on the sandy 
shores of lakes and streams. He generally lies with his 
body half submerged in the water, so that if he scents dan- 
ger, he may be able instantly to disappear under the sur- 
face. Sometimes, however, he gets up entirely out of the 
water, even in broad daylight, to bask in the sun close to 
the water's edge. I once saw three big hippos, sleeping 
on the northern banks of the Sondo River, in the Kisii 
country. They were huddled up very close to one another, 
as they so often are seen when resting on dry land. The 
one nearest to the water was perhaps only three yards 
away from the edge, and all were lying parallel to the river, 
facing upstream, although, strangely enough, a strong 
wind was blowing the opposite way, much to my delight. 
Alone, with an eleven-millimeter Mauser rifle in a sling 
over the shoulder, and with camera in hand, I began to 
stalk the three sleeping hippos, with a view of doing my 
utmost to get a snapshot of them at close quarters before 
they should roll into the stream. 

When I first detected any hippos in this place we were 

94 




Hippo Heads Showini, aikivi: thi: Si kface of the Water in the 
SoNDo River. 



■«'"CSSSWHS|MW|pfi 




Sleeping Hippos in the Tana River not eak fkom Tort Hall. 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

all on the march and had stopped on the hills above the 
river, from which elevation I scanned the waters with my 
strong Zeiss No. 12 field glasses at a distance of about half 
a mile. I could plainly make out the big heads of about a 
dozen or more hippos, floating along in the mighty stream. 
Between where I stood and the river the country was 
dotted with bushes and trees, but within one hundred yards 
or so of the water it was entirely open and only covered 
with coarse grass, not high enough to afford any cover. 
Strung along the edge of the river were a good many trees, 
and upstream in front of the three sleeping hippos was 
a little hill, only about ten yards away from the animals, 
on the crest of which elevation were two or three good- 
sized bushes, which afforded excellent cover for anyone 
walking close to the river's edge. 

As the wind was " right " I made a large semicircle 
from where I stood down to the river in front of the trio. 
1 found that only by going through water and soft mud, 
sometimes over my knees, could I proceed in a line behind 
the little hill, if I wanted to approach the hippos unseen. 
As silently as possible I waded forward, being careful to 
keep camera and gun above water all the time. This was 
often not so easy, having once slid down almost to my 
hips in a muddy hole, only some twenty-five yards away 
from the hippos. I must then have made somewhat of a 
splash, which was instantly answered by a much louder 
splash, as, to my dismay, one of the hippos rolled into the 
river. 

With the utmost effort I succeeded in a few seconds in 
getting up on dry ground again, this time on the slope of 
the little hill, just in time to hear another big splash, as 

95 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

hippo No. 2 took to the water. With fast beating heart, 
1 finally ventured to peep over the top of the hill between 
the bushes, with the camera ready for a " snap," when, to 
my great delight, I found hippo No. 3 lying exactly where 
I first had seen him. In an instant I had focused and, 
just as I snapped, the wary monster awoke, so that in this 
picture he is seen with half-open eyes. As quickly as pos- 
sible I changed my film, but before I had a chance of using 
either camera or gun, the hippo had discovered me and 
quickly dived into the stream. 

All along the shore of this river we found well-trodden 
hippo tracks of their peculiar characteristic shape; the 
hippo is so thick and his legs so short in comparison that 
between the imprints of the fore and hind legs on one side 
and those of the other side there is a regular track, formed 
sometimes by the belly of the big pachyderm, as he waddles 
along. We were surprised to find that the hippo in these 
regions sometimes goes as far as a mile or more away 
from the river at night to feed on his favorite grass and 
leaves. 

After I had succeeded in photographing the sleeping 
monster, I signaled to the men to come on. I then sent 
one party half a mile upstream, while another went down 
about one thousand yards, to where the still flowing stream 
tumbled down in a long succession of rapids. Both parties 
were instructed to frighten the hippos away toward me. 
With a few men I remained in the shadow of a tree that 
overhung the little hill, from which I had taken the suc- 
cessful photograph. From this place we had an excellent 
view over the whole hippo pool. We quickly constructed 
a good cover of branches and high grass, behind which we 

96 




Sleeping Hippo, Photographed Close to the Sondo River, 1909. 




THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

sat down to await developments. Head after head popped 
up all over in front of us, just long enough to exhale and 
inhale, only to disappear again in the next moment. As we 
kept perfectly still behind our screen, more and more of the 
hippos began to show their whole foreheads above water, 
and did not dive as quickly as before. 

Presently my gun bearer, Mwalimu, gave me a slight 
nudge, and pointing to a big black hippo head on my left, 
whispered: " Huyu mmume mkubwa sana!" ("This one 
is a very big male "). Up went my gun, a flash, a sharp 
report, followed by a tremendous commotion in the river, 
and then the stillness of the grave seemed to reign for 
a while, until some distant snortings announced that all 
the hippos had scattered up and down stream. Both the 
gun bearer and I thought that we heard the bullet hit the 
hippo's head, but it was impossible to tell this with any 
certainty, for, as already remarked, if hippos are instantly 
killed, they sink at once to the bottom of the river to reap- 
pear in about an hour. As the waters of the Sondo in this 
still flowing pool were rather warm, I expected that the 
body would reappear in less than an hour. Looking at 
my watch, I saw that it was exactly ii a.m., and so get- 
ting the camera ready for any snapshots, if in the mean- 
time any head would appear in the vicinity, I dispatched 
some men to the bulk of the caravan to bring them down 
to a level place, within some five hundred yards of the river. 
There we made our camp for the night, as I knew it would 
take considerable time to skin the hippo, even if we got hold 
of him by twelve o'clock. 

To the surprise of us all, the body appeared above the 
surface of the water like a dark, shiny hulk, at exactly 

97 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

11.27 — or not quite half an hour from the moment the 
hippo had been killed. The stream formed in this place a 
fine, oblong pool, but only a very few hundred yards far- 
ther down the foaming rapids began. Halfway to the rap- 
ids there was a sharp bend in the river, and we thought 
that the body, which now floated just about in midstream, 
would surely land at our side of the bend. Much to our 
dismay, however, the body seemed to float over nearer and 
nearer to the opposite shore ; we had no boat available, and 
there was no bridge or ford for many miles to either side. 
Unless the hippo should be lost to us in a few more min- 
utes, by being dashed down the rapids, someone would 
have to swim out to the carcass to fasten it to the end of a 
long rope, which I always carried on safari, and by which 
it could then be easily hauled ashore. 

No promise of reward, nor anything else, could induce 
any of my men to make this venture. I was very much 
disturbed, thinking that, after all, this beautiful trophy 
should be lost, and so, for a moment forgetting my dear 
ones at home, I flung ofif my clothes, took the end of the 
rope between my teeth, and jumped into the river, having 
tied my big hunting knife to a string around my waist. I 
must say that this was one of the most foolhardy things 
I have ever done, for not only was the river filled with 
hippos, but was also said to contain crocodiles, although 
as yet we had not seen any. When within a few yards of 
the hippo I felt a sudden stinging pain in my left leg; I 
certainly thought I was done for then, imagining that a 
crocodile or a hippo was trying to chew me up ! However, 
I safely reached the carcass and, after having climbed up 
on his side, I found myself bleeding from a wound some 

98 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

three inches long, but not very deep, just above the knee. 
I then reaHzed that I must have knocked my leg against 
some pole or other sharp object, which had stuck in the 
bottom of the river. 

Having cut two holes in the skin of the hippo's neck, 
I tied the end of the rope through the loop, and called to 
the men to pull us ashore. Just as the line began to 
straighten I lost my balance for a moment, and rolled com- 
pletely over with the hippo, a rather unpleasant experi- 
ence that I repeated twice before we were landed on the 
opposite shore. But my trophy was saved, and no one 
in the world could have been more delighted than I when 
we began to cut up the big monster. 

Another hippo shot in the same river a few days later 
floated up in exactly thirty-two minutes, taking five minutes 
longer than the one just referred to. The second one was 
a very much larger bull hippo, and was shot in a smaller 
pool, above which was a rather deep ford, and below which 
there was another succession of foaming rapids. As soon 
as the body floated up, it was unfortunately carried by the 
current in among the bushes on the opposite shore, where 
it began to go slowly downstream. As the rapids were 
only about one hundred yards farther down, and as the 
swiftness of the current increased with every yard, I 
rushed some men across the stream to fasten a rope to the 
hippo, while we held on to the other end. They succeeded 
in reaching the carcass only after it had moved along an- 
other fifty yards and had come into rather swift-flowing 
water, but close to the opposite shore. As the two men had 
finished tying the rope to the big body, they swam ashore 
—a distance of only some four or five yards — and at the 

99 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

same time my men began to pull in the line. Just imagine 
our surprise when, in the middle of the stream, the line 
suddenly parted, and the big hippo shot downstream at a 
tremendous speed. It had not gone far, however, until 
it struck a rock, standing out just at the beginning of the 
rapids. Here the body was almost doubled from the force 
of the stream, which held it fast against the rock. 

Now, there was only one way of reaching our trophy 
and that was for some one with a rope to throw himself in 
the pool and let the stream take him down to the hippo. 
This was not quite so dangerous in a certain way, because 
there was no other hippo in the pool, and there were no 
crocodiles in this place; but the men, fearing the force of 
the water, again refused. Again I had to seize the rope 
myself and jump into the water, the next moment being 
hurled with great force against the side of the hippo, which 
was fortunately soft enough not to injure me, the carcass 
lying with the back down and the feet in the air. 

I realized now that it was impossible to save the whole 
hippo, for the current was too strong; so I fastened the 
rope around his under jaw, behind the big tusks, shouting 
to the men to tightly fasten the other end around a tree 
which stood at the water's edge. My gun bearer and two 
of the natives now volunteered to slide down the rope with 
an ax to help me cut off the head, so that we could, at 
least, save that for a trophy. One by one they shot down 
along the rope and reached me in safety. Mwalimu car- 
ried the big American ax. When everything was ready 
and only the vertebrae of the neck needed to be severed to 
separate the head from the body, I again went into the 
water and, with great efforts, succeeded in hauling myself 

100 



THE HIPPOPOTAMUS, OR RIVER HORSE 

up against the stream to the shore ; I shouted to MwaHmu 
to cut off the head, which he did with a couple of mighty 
strokes, and the men began to pull in the magnificent head. 
The reader cannot imagine how badly I felt, when, by the 
increased force of the water, the new, more than half-inch- 
thick line again parted, and the big head was swept down 
the rapids, never again to be seen by us: and thus ended 
my hippo hunting in East Africa. 

The hippo is a very destructive animal. On his long 
nightly wanderings, when he sometimes goes as far as one 
to two miles from the water, he seems to develop an enor- 
mous appetite. Very often he goes right into the gar- 
dens of the white settlers or natives, where in one night 
a single hippo is able to devour more vegetables than a 
settler and his whole family could eat in a month! This 
is nothing to wonder at, when the fact is known that the 
mighty pachyderm carries a monstrous stomach, unpro- 
portionately large, which by actual measurement has been 
found to exceed even eleven feet in length, and capable of 
containing four to five bushels of food ! 

The hippos vary in size quite a little, those of the 
istreams being considerably smaller, as a general rule, than 
the ones found in larger lakes. From three to four thou- 
sand pounds is a heavy weight for a river hippo, whereas 
animals have been shot in the lakes both of Uganda and 
German East Africa weighing more than twice as much. 
In the same proportion do their tusks vary from twelve 
to eighteen inches in length on the outside curve of a good- 
sized river hippo, while I recently saw a pair of tusks from 
a monstrous old bull, killed in a Nyassa Land lake, whose 
tusks measured twenty-eight and a half inches. The 

lOI 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

largest hippo tusks on record reached the enormous size 
of thirty-one and a half inches in length, with a girth of 
nine inches at the base. The hide of an old bull hippo is 
exceedingly thick and weighs, just after having been taken 
off the animal, from four hundred to five hundred pounds. 
In spite of all the persecutions to which the hippo is 
nowadays exposed, he will probably be the last of the big 
African game animals to become extinct, being still very 
numerous in most of the large lakes, streams, and swamps 
of the greater part of Africa. 



CHAPTER VII 

THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

The family of hollow-horned ruminants, including the 
ox, the bison, the buffalo, and the musk ox, is to mankind 
perhaps the most important of all animal groups. For what 
would the civilized American or European, or the naked 
savages of Africa, or the hundreds of millions of Hindoos, 
Chinese and Japanese do without the work of the ox and 
the milk of the cow ? Of the existing wild animals of this 
family, the American bison, now practically extinct as a 
wild animal, the Indian, and the African, or Cape buffalo 
are the most important. Of these species again the Cape 
buffalo is the largest and by far the " gamiest." 

The buffaloes are so far distinct from other wild cattle 
that they will not interbreed with them. Among the buf- 
faloes themselves, even in the one continent of Africa, quite 
a difference exists both in size and color. The Congo 
buffalo with shorter and more upturned horns is much 
smaller than the Cape buffalo, and of an almost yellow tint. 
The Abyssinian buffalo is brown and also somewhat 
smaller than the Cape buffalo, as are also the Senegambian 
and the " gray buffalo," supposed to exist in the regions 
around Lake Tchad. 

The Cape buffalo inhabits to-day all the central and 
eastern parts of Africa, from the Cape in the south to 

103 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Abyssinia in the north, although he is now rare in South 
Africa, having been practically exterminated there in mod- 
ern times, as the country became more and more settled 
with white people. In Portuguese, German, and British 
East Africa the once countless herds of buffalo were very 
materially reduced some eighteen years ago by the terrible 
** Rinderpest," which threatened them with total destruc- 
tion. But they have in the last years fortunately increased 
there again in great numbers. 

These buffaloes are most powerfully built animals. 
The body of a full-grown bull measures from tip of the 
nose to base of the tail from eight to nine feet in length, 
and he stands fully four and one half feet high at the 
shoulder. The buffaloes live in great herds, feeding to- 
gether like cattle, but old bulls often separate from the main 
body and live by themselves, as do the old males of ele- 
phants, rhinos, and giraffes. The color of the Cape buf- 
falo is black, with very little hair on the body, which on 
old bulls seems entirely to disappear except upon the head, 
where it then generally turns gray. The shape and size 
of the horns of buffaloes vary a great deal. The horns of 
the female are much thinner and flatter than those of the 
bull. They never meet at their base and are also much 
smoother on the surface than the horns of the male buffalo. 
Even among the bulls there is a great difference in the 
horns, which of even some very old ones never touch each 
other at the base, while those of others seem to be almost 
grown together. I have seen a pair of horns that were 
actually so close together at the base that it almost ap- 
peared as if they formed one solid mass ; but this, I believe, 
is very unusual. There is generally enough space between 

104 



THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

the horns, even of the bulls, to allow a little tuft of hair 
to grow. This hair, as well as the hair on most parts of 
the head, turns often, as already remarked, gray on very 
old animals. 

The appearance of the surface and also the shape of 
the horns vary greatly. On some, the horns are rather 
flat and smooth, while other bulls carry enormously thick 
and rugged horns, with such miniature canons and ridges 
at the base, that they appear, as someone has said, like 
" sides of a volcano, with its lava streams and rugged 
ridges." Then, again, on some old bulls the tips of the 
horns are rather close together — from twenty-four to thirty 
inches apart — turning inward and downward toward the 
base, much like fish hooks, while others have their horns 
less curved and with points turned more forward and up- 
ward and with as much spread as thirty-six to forty-five 
inches from tip to tip. 

The African bufifalo is without question one of the 
finest-looking beasts imaginable. With his massive but 
not clumsy body, his powerful neck, and magnificent horns, 
he is the very picture of beauty and strength. Indeed, a 
great many hunters class him as No. i in the list of danger- 
ous game. Even the lion is then often placed as No. 2, and 
the elephant, rhino, and leopard are generally considered 
the three next most dangerous beasts. It is, however, very 
difficult to say with any accuracy which of these animals 
is really the one most to be feared, for the same kind of 
animal will not only behave dififerently in varying circum- 
stances, but the same individual beast will also act entirely 
differently one day from what it will another, although 
under exactly the same conditions. 

105 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

The Cape bufifalo will hardly ever attack a human be- 
ing, unless hunted, wounded, or molested. in some way, 
or perhaps suddenly surprised in his own haunts. But 
all African hunters agree in this, that once wounded or 
cornered, the buffalo is one of the most dangerous beasts 
to approach. If he has been wounded but not instantly 
killed, he will either charge straight down on his assail- 
ant, if the latter is in plain view, or else he will make for 
some thick cover, which generally is not far away, as the 
bufifalo is seldom found on the open plains in the daytime. 
His favorite haunts are in the dense jungles of both the 
hot lowlands along the coast of the Indian Ocean, and 
of the higher inland plateaus, preferably in the vicinity 
of rivers, swamps, and lakes, where he sometimes stands 
for hours up to his belly in the water or resting in the 
thick papyrus or under overhanging trees. On the moun- 
tain ranges he is almost invariably found in large numbers 
on the foothills even up to an altitude of some seven to 
eight thousand feet. These forests ofifer the buffalo oc- 
casional larger and smaller open spaces, overgrown with 
luxuriant grass, which seems very attractive to the beau- 
tiful beast. 

The bufifalo is one of the most wary animals. He has 
so fine a sense of smell, that only the elephant and the 
rhino can be compared with him in this respect, the ele- 
phant alone being his superior in being able to scent his 
enemies at long distance. This fact makes it very dif- 
ficult to get a shot at the bufifalo at close range, particularly 
in localities where he has been much disturbed. Here 
he hides in the daytime in the thickest jungle, often sleep- 
ing for hours in the shadow of big trees. He is even then, 

1 06 




A Magnificent Bull Buffalo, KiLLt:D in the Kedong Valley. 




Large Head of the Ordinary Water Buck (Cobus defassa). 



THE AFRICAN OR CARE BUFFALO 

however, very difficult to approach, for he sleeps very 
lightly and hears exceedingly well, so that the slightest 
noise, the breaking of a twig or the rubbing of the branches 
against the hunter's hat, clothes, or shoes is enough to 
wake him up and arouse his suspicions. Instantly he is 
on his feet, and usually manages to get away so quickly 
and so cautiously that the hunter in most cases only hears 
him darting through the dense bush, without having a 
chance to photograph or shoot him. 

This has been my own experience time and again. Na- 
tive trackers have told me repeatedly that they were sure 
they could lead me up to bufifaloes, which they had seen 
at close quarters, for these naked savages can creep 
through the most dense bush apparently without the slight- 
est noise; and yet again and again I myself failed to find 
them, when we started out together. 

One day a Wandorobo came running into camp at 
about two o'clock in the afternoon, just as I was returning 
from a long and successful hunt for water bucks to get 
my lunch and rest a little. He told very excitedly that 
he had been tracking a small herd of buffaloes all day, 
until they finally had lain down to sleep under some big 
trees in a very dense forest, only about three miles to the 
south of our camp. He further said that there was one 
" very, very large old bull " with magnificent horns among 
the herd, and that he could easily take me up to within ten 
yards of the creature. 

After such a tale, of course, I could not take the time to 
sit down and eat, and so, picking up a piece of bread and 
half a roasted guinea fowl, I started off at once for the 
buffaloes, taking the gun bearers and about a dozen fresh 

107 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

men with me. After a little over thirty minutes of half- 
walking, half-running, the Wandorobo stopped and asked 
me to let the bulk of the men wait there, while he and I 
with only one gun bearer should sneak up to the buffaloes, 
which were now only some six to seven hundred yards 
away. An order to sit down and wait was always obeyed 
with much satisfaction, and as a fairly strong wind was 
blowing in our faces from the direction of the herd, we 
soon caught their wind, noticing more and more their 
peculiar strong odor. 

With the utmost caution, we followed the naked Wan- 
dorobo, who penetrated the dense bush like an eel through 
the water, without making the slightest noise, while my 
gun bearer and I were not quite so successful in avoiding 
dry twigs on the ground, and the noise of the scraping 
of branches against our clothes. To make it easier for me 
to move on quietly I had already left my big sun helmet 
behind with the men, and had donned a small, soft, green 
cap. I could do this with safety, for the jungle here was 
so dense that hardly a ray of equatorial sun could pene- 
trate to our heads. 

After a while my guide stopped again and, pointing 
forward, whispered in my ear : " Huko nyati mkubwa, 
chini ya miti mkubwa." (The big buffalo is there, under 
the big tree. ) The tree to which he pointed with his spear 
was only about fifty yards away, and right in front of us. 
I took up some dry, fine sand, which I always used to 
carry in my pocket, lifted it up and let it fall to the ground 
to see if the wind was still right. To my dismay, the 
sand fell down as straight as it could, showing that at the 
time there was no wind at all. Here I left even the gun 

io8 



THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

bearer behind, exchanging with him the .405 Winchester, 
which I had been carrying up to that time, for the big 
.577 Express. This evidently much pleased my Wando- 
robo, as the size and weight of this weapon, by the natives 
generally called " msinga " (cannon), had greatly im- 
pressed him. 

On we went, nearer and nearer to the big tree. Sud- 
denly there was a loud snort, followed by angry grunts, 
only some twelve to fifteen yards away! In another in- 
stant the whole buffalo herd rushed up and crashed 
through the bush in a mad rush for safety ! So dense was 
the jungle, that although the nearest animal could not 
have been more than twelve yards away from us, and we 
could even see the tops of the bushes and trees move as 
the beasts pressed by — it was absolutely impossible to 
get a glimpse of a single animal, notwithstanding the 
fact that I flung myself after them as fast as I knew how, 
receiving cuts and bruises from thorns and larger branches 
in my path, as I ran blindly through the thickets in a vain 
attempt to be able to sight one of the fleeing beasts. The 
wind must have changed to another direction at the last 
moment, or we made some noise, unnoticed by ourselves, 
which frightened the herd. However this may be, the 
buffaloes had vanished, and we, sad and weary, had to give 
up the chase, reaching camp just as the sun went down. 

On another occasion I was more fortunate. We had 
found fresh buffalo tracks on one of the foothills of 
Mt. Kenia, at an altitude of somewhat over eight thousand 
feet. Magnificent cedars, with their straight trunks, in- 
termingling with enormous deciduous trees of different 
kinds, composed this forest, the undergrowth of which 
9 109 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

contained a great many dense bushes, and here and there 
an occasional rubber vine of the Landolphia family. After 
more than two hours of difficult tracking we finally sighted 
some buffaloes about one hundred yards distant, standing 
across a small open grass patch in the midst of the forest. 
From where we stood we singled out the one that seemed 
the largest bull, as it was impossible to get any nearer to 
the herd, there being not the slightest cover to stalk be- 
hind, and the grass too short to conceal a man, even if 
creeping. 

I fired with the big Express gun, aiming for the buf- 
falo's heart. At the crack of the gun the herd made off 
in a wild stampede, disappearing in the thicket. My gun 
bearer said in a sad tone in his pidgin swahili : " Hapana 
piga bwana." (You did not hit, sir.) Indeed, I thought 
the same, for the big buffalo, at which I had aimed, 
bounded off with the rest of the herd with mighty leaps, as 
he vanished in the bush. I decided to cross the open grass 
patch to see if there would not at least be some blood 
marks that we could follow, feeling certain that the buffalo 
must have been hit somewhere, even if not in a deadly 
spot. It now became evident how much the natives them- 
selves fear the buffalo, for they followed me most unwil- 
lingly, saying that if a buffalo is wounded and followed 
in the dense jungle, he is much more ferocious and cun- 
ning than even the lion ; that he often doubles in his tracks 
and hides in the dense bush close by, until his pursuer is 
almost upon him. Then he makes a wild dash at him, and 
either tosses him to death, or gores him with his powerful 
horns. 

With the greatest caution, therefore, we crossed the 

no 



THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

open space and entered the dense forest, where the buffa- 
loes had been standing only a few seconds before. With 
the safety catch of the big gun pushed forward, and strain- 
ing my eyes and ears to the utmost to be fully on my 
guard, and ready for any emergency, we went into the 
bush. We had gone but a few paces, when we suddenly 
heard a loud groan and, expecting a charge at any mo- 
ment, we held our breath and stopped to listen and look 
around. Another drawn-out, bellowing-like groan fol- 
lowed close to our right, and turning in that direction, I 
had only gone a few steps, when I saw that the magnificent 
buffalo had breathed his last! After skinning the beast 
I wanted to see where he had been hit, and discovered now 
that the large, steel- jacketed bullet had gone clean through 
the very center of the heart and penetrated to the other 
side until it had almost protruded through the skin. And 
yet with such a wound the buffalo had been able to run 
for over fifty yards ! 

In Uganda, where buffaloes are more plentiful than in 
British East Africa, they often become so daring that they 
run at night into the plantations of the natives, which they 
destroy in a most thorough manner, often killing the sav- 
ages who try to chase them away. The government, there- 
fore, has recently taken the buffalo off the list of protected 
animals and declared it, together with hippos and croco- 
diles, to be " vermin." In Uganda anyone can now shoot 
as many buffaloes as he wishes and has a chance to, if he 
thinks that this is " sport." In British East Africa, how- 
ever, where the buffalo is not quite so plentiful — one of 
the results of the terrible rinderpest — he was altogether 
protected until two years ago; up to that time the sports- 

III 



THE BIG GAME OE AERICA 

man could only kill one male bufifalo on a special license, 
for which he had to pay twenty-five dollars. Then for 
two years the hunter was allowed to kill one bull buffalo 
on his ordinary sportsman's license. Since the middle 
of December, 1909, when the present new game laws went 
into effect, a sportsman is allowed tzvo bull buffaloes on his 
license, the animals having greatly increased during the 
last few years. 

Mr. E. C. Selous, who has probably killed more buf- 
faloes than any man living, and who has had a great many 
narrow escapes from wounded and charging beasts, classes 
these as the most dangerous of African game. This opin- 
ion is undoubtedly shared by many other hunters. On one 
of my trips to East Africa I met a certain Mr. Morrison, 
an American, who told me how he, a few years ago, had 
lost his left arm in a buffalo hunt. With another white 
man, a Portuguese lawyer, he was out buffalo hunting 
some sixty miles to the northwest of Mozambique, in Por- 
tuguese East Africa. Each of them had already succeeded 
in felling one fine, old bull, when toward evening one day, 
as they were returning to camp, a small buffalo herd 
suddenly appeared within shooting distance. They could 
plainly see that there was one very large bull among them. 

Both sportsmen fired at this animal, but the wounded 
buffalo disappeared with the rest of the herd into the 
jungle. Morrison and his friend followed in hot pursuit, 
and a moment later they saw a pair of fine horns behind 
a bush. Morrison fired at once, mistaking it for the bull 
that he had already hit, as the beast rolled over dead at 
the crack of the gun. The two delighted friends now ran 
forward toward the fallen buffalo, when suddenly, with- 

112 



THE AFRICAN OR CAPE BUFFALO 

out a moment's warning, the first bull they had wounded 
charged down on them with such ferocity that, before they 
knew what had happened, Morrison was caught up by the 
mighty horns of the enraged beast and tossed high up in 
the air. He landed unconscious on his back in a thick bush, 
with his left arm broken in three places, and almost sev- 
ered from his body. During this time the Portuguese had 
just had time to fire before the beast turned on him. He 
succeeded in killing the buffalo instantly with a shot in the 
brain, from a distance of only about five yards. 

Although, as before mentioned, the buffalo is taken off 
the list of protected game animals in Uganda, and each 
sportsman is allowed at present to kill two bulls a year in 
British East Africa, yet with the present excellent and 
rigid game laws, and vast, suitable game preserves in many 
parts of East, Central, and South Africa, the Cape buffalo 
is apt to survive and even increase still more in numbers 
for centuries to come, unless another and more serious 
rinderpest should threaten the magnificent and coura- 
geous beast with total extermination. 



CHAPTER VIII 

LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

None of the big cats is so widely distributed as the 
leopard. From the sun-scorched African and Indian plains 
and damp tropical forests, as far as Manchuria and Japan 
in the north, and up on the lofty Tibetan plateaus, the 
leopard inhabits to-day the whole of Africa and the greater 
part of Asia. 

Of the leopard proper there is evidently only one spe- 
cies. The commonly made distinction between the leopard 
and the so-called panther is, from a zoological standpoint, 
untenable, although a good many sportsmen and hunters 
affirm that there is a great difference in size and markings 
between the two animals. The panther in such case is 
supposed to be the larger and more ferocious of the two, 
but from the zoological point of view no real difference 
exists, the panther being simply an ordinary, although per- 
haps somewhat larger, leopard. Both the ordinary leopard 
and the hunting leopard, existing also in India, are there 
by the natives called " chita," by most Europeans often 
spelled " cheetah," the Hindu word simply designating a 
spotted cat. 

Then there is an almost raven-black variety, which was 
often described as being a different species of leopard. 
This black variety, commonly called the " black leopard," 

114 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

was formerly believed to exist only in the Malay peninsula 
and on the Island of Java, and is, like the snow leopard 
of the Himalayan Mountains and other high regions, more 
seldom met with than the ordinary black and yellowish 
white spotted varieties. Even the black leopard shows, 
if examined closely, that his coat is spotted much in the 
same way as the ordinary leopard, but the rings of the 
spots are more intensely black in color. Of all these dif- 
ferent varieties of leopards, the snow leopard is without 
a question the least common and the most beautiful. 

In many prominent zoological works it is said that the 
black leopard exists only in Asia, and this is generally 
believed even in sporting circles to-day. The fact, how- 
ever, is that although much rarer, the black leopard also 
exists in Africa. In 1906 I was told that Mr. W. McMil- 
lan, the well-known American, on whose vast estate, " Juja 
Farm," Colonel Roosevelt had some excellent shooting in 
the summer of 1909, had killed a black leopard in British 
East Africa. I could hardly believe this tale, until I, upon 
the invitation of Mr. McMillan, visited his beautiful home 
in London. There in the vestibule of his house stood a 
large, well-mounted, and absolutely black leopard, which 
this great Nimrod had actually slain in Africa. That the 
black leopard does not form a distinct species, but is a 
mere " freak," or but a different variety of the ordinary 
leopard, is evident from the two facts that there is, in the 
first place, absolutely no difference in its general build or 
habits, and, secondly, that we have authentic records of 
ordinary female leopards, which have born both spotted 
and absolutely black cubs in the same litter. 

The ordinary spotted leopard is very much feared by 

115 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

the natives, more so than even the hon, for he often plays 
great havoc with their cattle. Not only does the daring, 
bloodthirsty feline kill the cattle or sheep that he wants 
to devour, but he also goes in for wholesale and wanton 
destruction of the animals. Not infrequently has a single 
leopard killed a dozen or more sheep and goats in one 
night, without completely devouring a single one ; he may 
have drunk the blood from all of them, or eaten a few 
pounds of meat from some of the victims, while there may 
be still others, which he does not seem to have touched, 
after they had been killed. 

The leopard often springs upon the back of his prey, 
killing it with a single bite in the neck, or by catching hold 
of the animal's neck with his paws and biting through the 
throat, or by strangling the victim. Then he invariably 
tears his prey open with his mighty paws and generally 
devours first the heart, lungs, and liver, licking out the 
blood in the cavity of the chest, before he begins to devour 
the other parts of the body. Leopards often climb up in 
trees with chunks of meat in their mouths, which after- 
wards they can devour at their leisure, undisturbed by 
their mightier rival, the lion, for which they invariably 
leave their prey, if on the ground, and instantly disappear, 
when the king of beasts approaches. As lions cannot climb 
trees, these are the leopards' only safe retreats. When the 
leopard is unable to devour the whole animal killed, he 
often drags the remainder up in a tree, so as not to have 
it eaten by the hyenas. 

There have been recorded a good many instances where 
leopards have turned man-eaters and killed and devoured 
natives, mostly women and children. I once met a Kikuju 

ii6 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

man who had lost not less than two children in this way : 
One of them, a little girl of perhaps four to five years of 
age, had been taken away by the leopard in broad daylight 
and but a few yards from the hut, in which the little one's 
mother had gone the moment before to prepare some food. 
As she heard the screams of her baby, she rushed out, only 
to see the leopard dart into the bush with her little girl 
between his jaws, disappearing so quickly that no trace 
was ever found of the unfortunate baby. One cannot won- 
der very much at this audacity of the leopard, when the 
fact is known that the Kikuju people never bury their 
dead, but throw them out in the nearest bush, to be de- 
voured by leopards, lions, and hyenas. But worse than 
that, not only do these cruel savages throw out their dead 
in this way, but they also do the same with old, sick people, 
who they think will not recover. In such cases the old 
men or women are led or carried out into the thorn bush, 
and there often tied and left to be killed and devoured by 
these bloodthirsty, nocturnal animals. Several authentic 
cases of this cruel treatment came to my knowledge during 
my stay in East Africa. 

Being so often bothered and harassed by leopards, both 
settlers and natives try all sorts of schemes to get rid of 
them; by shooting, by poisoning, and by trapping them in 
various ways. The leopard is very rarely seen in. the day- 
time, and he is therefore seldom shot by any man, white or 
black, for it is a rare chance if the sportsman, in his wan- 
derings, comes across one of these graceful and cunning 
animals. It is sometimes possible, however, to put up a 
leopard In a " donga '* — a river bed, on the sides of which 
there are thick patches of trees and bushes — m which both 

117 



^ 



. THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

leopards and lions like to hide during the daytime. Most 
of the leopards killed have been either shot on moonlight 
nights or at the morning dusk, as they were found lying 
on some dead animal upon which they were feeding, or 
else they have been caught in traps by settlers and natives, 
and then shot or speared. 

The savages make good leopard traps by driving strong 
poles deep into the ground, and so close to one another 
that the beast is unable to squeeze even a paw through. 
These poles are then tied together with bark to other poles, 
horizontally placed, so as to form a strong roof for the trap, 
which generally contains two compartments, a smaller 
and a larger one, separated by a strong partition, also made 
of poles. In the smaller compartment a live kid or lamb is 
placed to attract the leopard with its bleating. The en- 
trance to the trap and the whole trap itself is so narrow 
that there is not room enough for the leopard to turn 
around, and a heavy plank, serving as the door of the trap, 
is suspended by a pole over the entrance. The other end 
of this pole is held down by a twig so placed that when 
the leopard enters the trap and wants to get at the little 
kid or lamb he has to push this twig aside. Instantly the 
rear end of the pole above is released, and the plank falls 
down behind the leopard, thus preventing his backing out 
of the trap. As he is also unable to turn around, so as to 
be able to lift up the door with his paws, he cannot escape, 
and is subsequently killed by spears, which the delighted 
natives thrust into him, between the side poles. After the 
same pattern I once made a leopard trap and put in a little 
kid for bait, but as I had made the larger compartment a 
little too wide, the cunning beast first took out the kid, 

Ii8 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

then turned around, lifted up the door with his paw, and 
disappeared with his prey. 

Many white people trap leopards, and even lions, by 
making a strong and high circle of thorn branches, in the 
center of which a kid or some other small live animal is 
tied. The only opening to this little circle is a narrow 
" alley " between the thorn branches, about six or eight 
feet long. In this narrow passageway one or two steel 
traps are placed with a small ridge of thorn twigs on either 
side of them. In attempting to avoid the thorns, the big 
cat steps right into the trap and is caught. The best way 
is to have the trap fastened to a strong chain, the other end 
of which should be tied to a good-sized log or big branch, 
so that the leopard is able to move away a little, otherwise 
he may tear himself free or even bite off his own leg in his 
attempts to escape. 

Great care should be taken in approaching a trapped 
leopard or lion, for, seeing their pursuer approach, they 
may free themselves at the last moment by a supreme 
effort, and woe to the man who is not then ready for such 
an emergency ! An El-Moran, or warrior, to whom I had 
given a steel trap in 1906, and who had caught a number 
of leopards in it, selling the skins for his living, once ap- 
proached a trapped leopard rather carelessly. In an in- 
stant the big feline, which had been caught by one of the 
hind paws, made a wild dash for him, freed himself from 
the trap at the cost of half the paw, and badly mauled the 
young warrior before he finally succeeded in killing the 
brute with his " panga," a long, swordlike, double-edged 
knife. 

Leopards are sometimes caught by placing a piece of 

119 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

meat on the large limb of a tree not too far from the 
gromid. The trap is placed between the trunk of the tree 
and the meat, concealed as much as possible under leaves, 
and fastened to a chain long enough to reach the ground 
with the other end, where it should be fastened to a log, 
but it must be well hidden, for otherwise the cunning cat 
would be suspicious and not go into the trap at all. 

At one time on the Naivasha plateau, when marching 
with my caravan from the western slopes of the Aberdare 
Mountains toward the Kijabe Railroad station, I saw a 
leopard at a distance of some seven hundred yards. The 
beautiful beast was walking slowly, almost parallel to us. 
On account of the high grass I could only see his back, and 
occasionally caught a glimpse of his head and the tip of his 
long tail. As there was no cover behind which I could 
stalk, I quickly screwed the Maxim gun silencer on to the 
6-millimeter Mannlicher, which was my farthest shooting 
weapon. In the meantime the caravan had thrown them- 
selves flat on the ground, so as not to attract the slightest 
attention from the leopard, which up to this time had not 
noticed us at all. As I had underestimated the distance 
in the beginning, I set the telescope sight of the rifle up to 
four hundred yards, and fired. 

The leopard, not hearing the crack of the gun, stopped 
and looked suspiciously down into the grass as the bullet 
hit the ground in front of him. It was then clear to me 
that the bullet must have hit the soil right under the ani- 
mal's neck, and that I had been aiming too low. Just as 
the leopard resumed his slow walk, the second bullet cut 
one of his front legs near the paw. Still hearing no noise, 
but feeling the sudden pain of the wound, the leopard evi- 

120 




Wounded Leopard on the Sotik Plains. 




Young Male Leopard. 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

dently thought that some enemy from underneath had 
gotten hold of his leg, so he began to dance around the 
spot in the most curious manner, scratching up the grass 
and ground with his powerful front paws. It was all we 
could do to refrain from laughing aloud at this strange 
performance. 

Suddenly the leopard stopped and looked carefully 
around in all directions before he began to resume his walk. 
Just then I fired for the third time. Now we plainly heard 
a sharp click a fraction of a second later, but as the leopard 
had disappeared, my talkative gun bearer remarked that he 
had run away, and had not been hit. But from that little 
click that we heard, I was rather certain that the bullet 
must have struck his head. We ran forward in a straight 
line to where we had last seen the leopard, and there, to 
our delight, we found the beautiful animal dead, with a 
bullet through its brain. 

We then found that the second bullet, which had caused 
the leopard to dance around and dig up the ground in a 
vain effort to find his enemy, had only made a small flesh 
wound on his left front leg, some three inches above the 
paw. I measured the distance between the leopard and the 
spot where I stood when I fired, and found it to be exactly 
six hundred and seventy-five yards, which shows the supe- 
riority of the Mannlicher for long-distance shooting. Of 
course, such a shot would have been impossible, if I had 
not had the gun fitted with a very superior telescopic sight, 
for with the bare eye the little front bead of the gun would 
have entirely covered the animal, and thus prevented an 
accurate shot. 

To show the cunning of leopards I will here relate the 

121 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

killing of two of these dangerous beasts by a German set- 
tler, previously referred to in the chapter on the giraffe. 
One evening a couple of natives reported that the young 
giraffe, captured and tamed by the settler, was being de- 
voured by two leopards, not far from the farmhouse. The 
fearless young German instantly made for the place, armed 
only with a double-barreled shotgun and an automatic pis- 
tol. As soon as the leopards heard his footsteps they both 
stopped eating. When the hunter appeared from behind 
the last bush that afforded any cover, and only some forty 
yards away, both animals, a male and a female, snarled 
at him for a second. The next moment they made a des- 
perate attempt to escape by jumping right and left into the 
jungle, each receiving a load of buckshot in their sides as 
they ran. The male bounded off into the bush, but the 
female fell to the ground like dead. While two of the 
natives kept watching this apparently dead leopard, the 
settler ran after the fleeing male, which he dispatched with 
another shot at close quarters. 

Just as he was bending over his trophy, desperate 
screams rang out from the place where his men were left 
to watch the other fallen leopard. The big female had 
only feigned that she was dead, for when she heard the 
third shot she flung herself upon the two negroes, who 
had ventured right up to the supposed " carcass." Both 
were badly scratched and bitten, and would doubtlessly 
have been killed had not a well-directed bullet from the 
splendid Mauser pistol, aimed at the brute's head, and at 
only three yards' distance, put a quick end to the fight. 

The hunting leopard, or cheetah, as he is often called, 
differs a great deal from the ordinary leopard. The chee- 

122 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

tah is much taller, and his whole form is much more like 
a dog's than that of a cat, with the exception of his round 
head and extremely long tail. Then, the spots of the two 
animals are entirely different, those of the cheetah being 
simply solid black or dark brown, while those of the leopard 
are like irregular, sometimes open, rings of mostly black 
color, with the center of an almost pure white, making the 
markings of the ordinary leopard much more beautiful 
than those of the plain-spotted cheetah. Another distinct 
difference between the two is that the cheetah is not able 
to draw in the claws of its paws as the other cats do. One 
can, therefore, at once see the difference between a track 
made by a leopard or by a cheetah, the claw marks in the 
latter's track showing plainly, like those made by hyenas 
or dogs. 

The hunting leopard is found almost all over Africa 
and India, but does not seem to go east of the Bay of 
Bengal. In India he is captured, tamed, and often used 
by the native princes for sport instead of hounds. This 
has doubtlessly given the cheetah the name of " hunting 
leopard." He is one of the swiftest mammals, being capa- 
ble of remarkable speed for a couple of hundred yards, but 
after that distance he soon gets out of wind, and may 
easily be outdistanced by a good horse. 

The natives have practically no reason to fear the hunt- 
ing leopard, which usually preys on the smaller antelopes, 
and very seldom tackles a kid or a lamb. I have heard 
from " reliable " natives that the cheetah often kills and 
eats the larger game birds, such as the goose, the partridge, 
the guinea fowl, and even the giant bustard, measuring 
sometimes as much as ten feet between the wings. I have 

123 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

never heard or read of any authentic case where human be- 
ings have been attacked or killed by the cheetah, although 
when wounded and cornered, this animal puts up a deter- 
mined fight, and may then be a very dangerous antagonist. 
I have twice had the pleasure of facing wounded hunting 
leopards, who were certainly bent on mischief, and both 
of which showed great courage. 

After a couple of days' very successful hunting in the 
country southwest of Lake Baringo my taxidermist asked 
me one day not to bring home any more skins of big game 
for a day or two, as he and his men had all they could 
do to take care of the animals shot the two previous days. 
But as there were in the vicinity a great many beautiful 
birds, which I coveted for our New York museum, and 
as some of the men, specially trained to skin birds, had 
nothing particular to do, I went out one morning with my 
double-barreled shotgun to collect birds, taking some ten 
or twelve men with me. The gun bearer was ordered to 
walk close behind me with one of my powerful rifles, for 
the great charm of hunting in Africa lies partly in the 
fact that while the sportsman may start out with the inten- 
tion of shooting small antelopes or birds, he may suddenly 
and entirely unexpectedly be confronted by a lion, a rhino, 
a buffalo, a leopard, or even an elephant, of whose proxim- 
ity he had no idea. 

After having shot a number of birds, which from time 
to time I sent back to camp, I suddenly saw, through a little 
opening in the bush, a strange-looking heron, staring in a 
certain direction, and moving its head most curiously up 
and down, as it intently gazed into the bush. From this 
attitude of the bird, I presumed that some other animal 

124 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

must be stalking in from that direction, and, making a 
semicircle around the bird, I discovered a big cheetah care- 
fully approaching him, crouching down on bent legs, in 
much the same way as the ordinary house cat stalks a 
mouse just before it is ready to spring on its prey. The 
leopard, which had not yet observed me, was only some 
forty yards away. Looking around for the gun bearer to 
get hold of the rifle, I found, to my amazement, not a man 
in sight ! 

Not wishing to lose the cheetah at any price, I made up 
my mind that it would be a case of either " his skin or 
mine." So, emerging from my cover, I fired with the right 
barrel of the gun, containing shot No. 5, meant for small 
birds. The charge hit the leopard squarely over the heart, 
but had not power to penetrate more than skin deep. Just 
as I had anticipated, the leopard instantly charged down 
on me in big leaps. Deciding to reserve the left barrel, 
loaded with only No. 2 shot, I waited until the very last 
moment, and just as I thought the leopard was about to 
make his last leap for me, I " let go," hitting the base of 
his neck. 

At such close range, the muzzle of the gun being cer- 
tainly not more than, at the most, three yards away from 
the leopard's neck, the charge had a tremendous effect, the 
shot tearing a big hole in the neck and turning him in an 
instant. The moment the leopard received the second shot, 
he swayed around sideways, made two more leaps, and 
rolled over dead. This was the only time, I am happy to 
say, that I lost my patience with my gun bearer, for when 
he came forward first after the second shot, I " touched 
him " rather unceremoniously, so that he tumbled into 
10 125 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

one of the nearby bushes. Had I not been so fortunate 
with my last shot, I might have, through his neghgence, 
in not keeping close to me, either lost the beautiful trophy 
or else been scratched and possibly badly mauled by the 
big cat. 

The cheetah is a very wary animal and seems to possess 
most excellent eyesight. There are probably no other ani- 
mals that can see as well both by day and by night as the 
members of the cat family, and so far as my experience 
goes, none of the felines is able to detect a sportsman at 
a greater distance than the cheetah. I have been seen re- 
peatedly by hunting leopards on the plains at distances of 
fully eight hundred or one thousand yards, when they have 
made good their escape into the high grass before I had 
any chance of stalking them. In 1909, however, w^hen 
hunting on the Sotik plains, only a few wxeks before Colo- 
nel Roosevelt made his shooting expedition to these famous 
regions, very early one morning we espied two cheetahs 
lying on the grass close to each other. The sun had not 
yet risen, and there was just light enough to shoot, when 
we detected these two animals at a distance of some six 
hundred yards. As I was whispering to Asgar, our brave 
lion chaser, and pointing out the leopards to him, the big 
cats saw us, and made off in long bounds. In an instant 
Asgar flung himself on the hunting pony; and then fol- 
lowed a most interesting chase. For the first few moments 
the two leopards, probably male and female, ran close 
together and seemed to outdistance Asgar and the pony, 
but after having run for a few hundred yards they sepa- 
rated, Asgar chasing the big male, now gaining on him 
more and more. We followed behind as fast as we could, 

126 



LEOPARDS AND CFIEETAHS 

but to our dismay Asgar soon disappeared behind a small 
hill, over which the leopards had sped. 

Running along as rapidly as possible, we came upon 
a herd of topi, which had been startled by the sound of the 
galloping horse, and, in their bewilderment, ran almost 
right into us in their mad effort to escape. Believing that 
a shot would not interfere with the pursuit of the leopard, 
I fired at the finest bull in the herd, which, w^hile galloping 
at top speed, was instantly killed with a shot in his neck, 
and rolled over in a heap, turning a complete somersault 
as he fell. Leaving a few men to take care of the topi, we 
ran on as hard as we could. 

Soon we reached the crest of the little hill, when, to 
our amazement, we saw Asgar in the saddle facing us, and 
brandishing his whip in the air. We fortunately took this 
to mean that he had the leopard already at bay somewhere 
nearby, so we ran down the slope of the hill as fast as pos- 
sible. When we came within speaking distance, Asgar 
shouted to us that the cheetah was hiding in a hole, made 
by a wart hog, only some twenty yards away from the 
horse; although we looked in the direction to which he 
pointed, it was impossible for us to detect any animal there 
at all. With camera and gun in either hand, I approached 
within thirty yards of the place, where the leopard hid, 
and yet it was impossible to see anything but a little mound 
of earth dug out by the pig. 

I then looked through my field glasses and discovered 
the two eyes of the leopard, just glaring at us from the top 
of the hole. As it was impossible to take any photograph 
of this, I aimed for the top of his head, which I missed 
by the fraction of an inch. The next moment the leopard 

127 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

bounded out from his hiding place, only to receive shot No. 
2 in his right shoulder. The shock of the bullet stopped 
him for a moment, and, turning in our direction, he 
snarled fearfully, with half-open mouth. Taking advan- 
tage of this opportunity, I advanced to within fifteen yards 
of the furious cheetah. Here I succeeded in getting two 
good photographs of him. Just as I had snapped him the 
second time, he decided that he had had enough of " pos- 
ing," and made a leap toward us, certainly intending to 
charge, when the third bullet, plowing through the heart, 
finished him in an instant. In the stomach of this cheetah 
we found evidence enough that its last meal had consisted 
of a little " tommy," seeing pieces of the peculiarly marked 
black and white skin, which showed that the meat must 
have been either that of a Thomson's or possibly a Grant's 
gazelle. 

The habits of the cheetah do not vary much from those 
of the other leopards, but he is not often found on such 
high altitudes as the latter, and seems to prefer the open 
country and bare plains. The ordinary leopard likes the 
densest bush country the best. In such places one will 
hardly ever meet a cheetah. Although the latter is con- 
siderably taller than the ordinary leopard, he does not 
weigh so much, being much less solid than his cousin. The 
length of the cheetah is also greater than that of the 
spotted leopard, particularly if the measurement includes 
that of the tail, which is in proportion longer than the tail 
of the leopard. My first cheetah measured seven feet four 
and a half inches from the tip of the nose to the end of 
the tail before it was skinned; the second one, measured 
in the same way, was seven feet seven inches long. Much 

128 



LEOPARDS AND CHEETAHS 

larger specimens than these have been recorded. One, re- 
cently shot in German East Africa, was almost nine feet 
long, measured in the same manner. 

As the hunting leopards cannot be classed among the 
animals which are very destructive or dangerous to natives 
and settlers, they are put on the " protected list," and the 
hunter is allowed to kill only two cheetahs on the ordinary 
sportsman's license, which is now in force in British East 
Africa. 



CHAPTER IX 

THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

There are not less than five species of rhinoceros in 
existence. Of these, Asia claims three. The great, or 
Indian, rhinoceros, and the Javan variety, carry but one 
horn, whereas the Sumatran, the smallest of all living spe- 
cies, has two horns, like his African relative. The Su- 
matran seems to be more closely related to the African 
rhino than the other two Asiatic species, for he has not 
only two horns, but his skin has not the large armor-plated 
patches as clearly defined as the Indian and Javan rhino. 

Of the two African species, the white or square-lipped 
rhinoceros is the larger of the two. This rhino is also 
much the rarer, existing only in a few small districts in 
South Africa and in the Lado Enclave, to the north of 
Uganda, where recently Colonel Roosevelt was lucky 
enough to secure several fine specimens. The skin of the 
" white rhino " is in reality not white at all, but dark gray, 
and only very little lighter than the ordinary *' black 
rhino." His front horn attains a height of some thirty 
to sixty inches, a good deal larger than any horn of the 
common black rhino, while he stands about six feet high 
over the shoulders. 

The black rhinoceros, usually met with all over East 
and Central Africa, is somewhat smaller, averaging five 

130 



THE W^I .XAN RHINOCEROS 

feet to five feet six inches in height, while one of the larg- 
est horns on record measured only forty-two inches in 
length. This species is prehensile-lipped and almost black 
in color, except that, fron\ wallowing in different colored 
mud and clay, the animals appear sometimes red, some- 
times dark gray. 

The African rhino feeds . xclusively from twigs and 
leaves of trees and bushes. He is not as fond of swamps as 
his Asiatic cousin, and is often found even in practically 
waterless country, where he goes considerable distances 
from the nearest stream or water hole. As a rule, he will 
return to drink at night, and sometimes he also drinks in 
the early morning. It has been said that the black rhino 
does not like cool weather, and that he seldom goes higher 
than 5,000 feet on plateaus and mountain ranges. This, 
however, is a mistake, for he is very abundant on the 
Laikipia Plateau, lying at an altitude of over 6,000 feet, 
and in 1906 I shot a charging female rhino, accompanied 
by a half-grown calf, which I met on one of the foothills 
of Kenia, at fully 8,000 feet altitude. It was evident from 
the many rhino paths on this side of the mountain that 
it was a favorite feeding place for the big pachyderms. 

I have noticed that there are two somewhat different 
species even of the black rhinoceros, for I have always 
found certain differences between those living on the 
plains and the rhinos inhabiting bush and forest country. 
The rhino of the plains has, as a rule, a much thicker and 
shorter fore horn than the bush rhino, whose horn is more 
curved backward, much more slender, and very sharply 
pointed. I have also noticed that the feet of the rhino in- 
habiting the plains are, in comparison, larger than those 

131 



./. 



THE BIG GAME Ofr '^iFRICA 

of the bush rhino. As to viciousness, I beheve that the 
rhino of the bush is much more ^jad tempered than the one 
inhabiting the open plains, whicii is said to be true also of 
lions. 

One of the most curious if pachyderms is without a 
doubt the African rhinoceros. He distinguishes himself 
from his Indian, one-horned cousin by having two horns, 
one straight behind the other. Both horns vary a great 
deal in size. Usually the front horn is the larger of the 
the two, curving slowly backward, much in the shape of a 
Turkish saber, and being in most cases round, very thick 
at its base, and tapering to a sharp point at the end. The 
other horn is generally much smaller and somewhat like a 
short Roman sword, being much flatter than the front horn 
and almost straight. 

The front horn of the male rhinoceros is a great deal 
thicker than that of the female, but a good many rhinos 
have been seen and killed on which the second horn was 
larger than the first. I myself have seen on the Sotik 
plains a huge female rhinoceros which had the second horn 
very much larger than the first, and curving forward over 
the first horn, which was a small, swordlike one, just ex- 
actly as the second horn generally is. The curved, second 
horn of this rhinoceros protruded at least six inches in 
front of the nose and appeared to be almost resting on the 
top of the small front horn. 

I had told Colonel Roosevelt that I was only going to 
stay on the Sotik plains for about a week or ten days, as 
he himself had planned to go there right after me, and, 
hoping that the colonel might be able to secure this 
strangely shaped head for the Natural Museum at Wash- 

132 





Two Rhinos Aslf.ep on the Plains to the Northwest of Guaso Narok 
Distance about Forty Yards. 




j^^j^^BlP 



..^ 



The Same Animals. 
Note the tick birds on the backs of the beasts. 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

ington, I did not shoot the beast, which I could very easily 
have done, as the rhino, followed by an almost full-grown 
calf, passed in front of me at a distance of not more than 
fifty to sixty yards; I was fortunate enough, however, to 
secure a couple of good photographs of this curious-looking 
animal. 

In 1906, when hunting northwest of Mt. Kenia, I saw 
at a distance of some two or three hundred yards an un- 
usually large rhino with a long and abnormal-looking horn. 
In this case it was the front horn, which had grown up to 
a length of probably some forty inches or more, while 
almost at its middle it had a sort of extension which, at 
that distance, looked as if the rhino had put its horn 
through a pumpkin. For hours and hours I tried to get 
within shooting range of this queer-looking beast, but 
before I could find any cover, the wind being unfavorable, 
he scented us and made ofif at a very quick gait, never to 
be seen by us again. In 1909 I saw some trophies that 
were sent down from German East Africa by way of Vic- 
toria Nyanza and the Uganda Railroad, and which be- 
longed to a German settler. He had shot, among other 
animals, a most curious-looking rhino, having both horns 
of about the same size and length, but both curving toward 
each other until they met, thus forming a perfect arch over 
the nose. 

While the skin of the Indian one-horned rhinoceros is 
thicker than that of the two-horned African, and divided 
in large, armorlike patches, the latter has a more uniform 
and much smoother skin, varying in thickness from one 
third of an inch under the belly and inside of the hind legs 
to fully one inch and more on the sides and back. The 

133 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

skin is always thickest on the sides, over the shoulders, and 
on the back of the powerful neck. It is rather remarkable 
that, in spite of the great thickness of the rhino's skin, it 
should be possible for parasites to live and feed on these 
great pachyderms, some of which are literally covered 
with these giant ticks. They seem to be able to find cracks 
and soft places in the heavy skin, through which they are 
able to suck the animal's blood, and in such places they con- 
gregate in great masses, sometimes causing bad ulcera- 
tions and sores. 

In such circumstances it is a blessing to the rhinos that 
the so-called " tick bird " exists. This is a brownish-look- 
ing little bird with a strong, straight bill, which always 
seems to follow the rhino both in the bush and in the open 
country. These wary little friends not only serve the rhi- 
noceros as " tick-eaters," but also warn him of any ap- 
proaching danger. Many a time I have stalked a rhino 
with my camera under the most favorable conditions, and 
I would have been able to come within a few feet of the 
powerful beast without attracting his attention, had it not 
been for the little tick bird, which with its shrill " pt-jaeh, 
pt-jaeh," warned the rhino of the approaching hunter, 
and, to my disgust, the coveted trophy would either run 
away or make a vicious charge. 

It must be said, however, to the credit of the tick bird, 
that it is sometimes useful also to the hunter. For in dense 
bush the sportsman would often not be able to see the 
rhino, until almost right upon him, if the tick bird with its 
" pt-jaeh " did not warn the hunter of the proximity of this 
dangerous beast. One morning when I was encamped 
with a large caravan not far from the junction of the 

134 



•%:^ Z 



« NT 



fid 



The Same Animals. 
The one facing the camera is about to charge at full speed. 




At About Ti:x Yards ih, I-ell, Killed Instantly by a Bullet from the 
Big .577 Express Rifle. 



I 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

Guaso-Narok and the Guaso-Nyiro, I started very early for 
the jungle with some twenty-five men. Before it was quite 
Hght enough to shoot accurately or to photograph, we had 
to go through a stretch of very dense bush. As we had not 
seen any rhinoceros tracks or other marks of their presence 
in that particular place, we did not imagine that there 
were any of these beasts around, when suddenly a little 
tick bird flew up out of the thicket right in front of us, 
and with his shrill " pt-jaeh, pt-jaeh " warned us to be on 
our guard. 

No sooner had I heard the bird before the angry snif- 
fing of a rhino announced that we were in dangerous com- 
pany. The moment the tick bird gave the signal, my gun 
bearer, of his own accord, reached forward the big .577 
Express with the words, " Kifaru karibu, bwana, kamata 
msinga " (''A rhinoceros is near, sir, take the ' cannon ' !") 
The next minute two rhinos rushed forward and faced us, 
right across a small opening in the bush, and for several 
seconds we eyed each other at a distance of only some 
ten yards or less. It was a big mother rhinoceros with 
her half-grown calf, snorting at us from across a low, 
red ant-hill. Unfortunately it was still too dark for a 
snapshot. 

With the big gun at my shoulder, with safety-catch 
pushed forward, and finger on the trigger, I was ready for 
a " brain-shot," if the rhino had moved forward an inch, 
but there she stood for a good many seconds motionless, 
except for a few tossings of the head. Then the animal 
turned around just as suddenly as she had appeared, and 
rushed ofif into the dense bush, crashing down everything 
in her wild attempt to escape. I was glad that the *' inter- 

135 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

view " ended thus, as I did not want to kill another rhi- 
noceros unless absolutely obliged to do so to protect my 
life. 

The strength of the African rhino is almost incredible. 
With ease he roots up trees and bushes, and is able to break 
down the jungle and go through the thickets so thorny and 
dense that one would think it absolutely impossible for any 
beast to penetrate. During the construction of the Uganda 
Railroad it more than once happened that rhinos took ex- 
ception to the invading of their country, routed the work- 
men off the track, and upset and destroyed wheelbarrows 
and tools. On one occasion a huge rhinoceros rushed for- 
ward toward a gang of workmen, who were fastening a 
rail to its sleepers, scattered the men, and then made for the 
construction car, which stood on the completed track a 
few hundred feet farther away. It put its mighty horn 
under the car and literally lifted it off the track, after which 
performance the beast, sniffing and puffing, departed. It 
took the workmen several hours to recover from their 
fright and to jack the car onto the track again. Horses 
and mules, and even cattle, have often been attacked by 
these vicious brutes and tossed many feet up in the air, 
horribly gored and mutilated by the powerful horns of the 
rhinos. 

Much has been said about the poor sight of the rhinoc- 
eros, and I have even heard prominent lecturers on Afri- 
can topics, and also sportsmen, speak about it as the " blind 
rhino." Although I know it is a generally accepted fact 
that the rhino is " almost blind," this theory is, in my opin- 
ion, not altogether warranted. I do not believe that he 
is nearly as badly off in this respect as he is supposed to 

136 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

be. On my first visit to Africa in 1906 I started out rhi- 
noceros hunting with the beHef that the beast was extraor- 
dinarily nearsighted and stupid, but a good many of my 
experiences, some of which I will relate in the following 
paragraphs, have made me change my mind considerably 
on this subject. 

It is generally said that the rhino cannot recognize an 
object at any farther distance than seventy-five to one hun- 
dred feet, and it is contended that if a rhino has observed 
a person at a longer distance than this, it is probably not 
through the sight, but through his wonderful scent that he 
has detected the hunter. In a good many instances it may 
be hard to say whether this is so or not, but as I had heard 
from one man, who had a great deal of experience in big 
game hunting in Africa, that he, for one, did not believe in 
the bad sight of the rhinoceros, I made up my mind that 
I should make as many thorough " tests " in this respect 
as possible. 

While I have seen that the rhino, like a great many 
other wild animals, both in Africa and in other continents, 
cannot very well distinguish between a man and a tree 
stump, if the former stands perfectly motionless, particu- 
larly if he is well or partly hidden by bushes, trees, or long 
grass, this may often be the case even with human ob- 
servers, if only the distance is increased. As to the rhi- 
noceros, I have found that in bush country, when the wind 
was such that it was absolutely impossible for the beast to 
scent me, he would not detect me, even ten to fifteen yards 
ofif, if I stood motionless among the bush. On the other 
hand, I have seen how the rhino clearly discovered my pres- 
ence when I was moving along in the bush, or even stand- 

137 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

ing still in open places, at a distance of from two to three 
hundred feet. 

Both on the Sotik plains and on the plateau to the 
northwest of the Guaso-Narok River I have repeatedly 
had experiences with rhinos which prove that their eye- 
sight is really not as bad as it is generally believed. On 
the former plains I saw two rhinos lying down in the open, 
just about the noon hour, taking a sleep and exposed to 
the burning rays of the equatorial sun. I advanced un- 
noticed to within one hundred and fifty yards for the pur- 
pose of taking photographs, when the noise made by one 
of the gun bearers, as his hob-nailed shoes crashed against 
a stone, awakened both animals. They sprang to their 
feet, and, although the wind was very strong and blowing 
from them to us, so that it was absolutely impossible for the 
animals to get our scent, they both saw us. They whirled 
around instantly and faced us, sniffing and puffing and 
wobbling their heads sideways and up and down, evidently 
attempting also to get a " whiff " of the disturbers of their 
siesta. We all three stood as motionless as we could, ex- 
cept that I tried to focus my lens on them, but just as I 
snapped the first picture both animals turned and ran away 
at high speed. 

One morning on the Laikipla Plateau I had the op- 
portunity of seeing no less than eleven rhinos in three 
hours, during which time I repeatedly tried to stalk right 
up to the beasts. A strong southwest breeze was blow- 
ing, and as I approached the animals from the northeast 
there was no possible chance for them to get a whiff of our 
wind. Time and again, I noticed, to my dismay, that the 
big pachyderms had an eyesight good enough to detect 

138 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

us at distances of from one hundred to two hundred yards 
and over, when all of them would run away, with the ex- 
ception of one old bull, which was lying down when I 
approached him. This rhino remained motionless, with 
his eyes evidently fixed on me, as I advanced with camera 
in one hand and the big Express in the other. Finally, 
when within less than fifty yards of the beast, as I was 
trying to make a semicircle around him to the southward, 
so as to be able to get a better light for the picture, he 
followed me with his head, and then suddenly rushed up, 
made a couple of angry sniffs, and charged right down 
on us, snorting like a steam engine. 

In spite of very careful work, great patience, and 
strong, favorable wind, I have never been able to approach 
a rhino that was awake nearer than about seventy yards 
on the open plains before he noticed me. I have several 
times actually paced the distance between me and the 
rhinos, which ran away, when they saw me even as far 
off as from one hundred and twenty-five to one hundred 
and seventy-five yards. The distance at which the beasts 
would either run away or charge us depended doubtlessly 
also on the different districts where they were found — i. e., 
whether they had been much hunted or not. If much dis- 
turbed, even the vicious rhino learns that man with his 
firearms is too dangerous an enemy to encounter. On 
the other hand, one of the most sudden and dangerous 
charges I experienced was made by an old bull, which had 
evidently been wounded a good many times before, as I 
found in his skin two Wandorobo arrowheads and several 
other wounds from bullets. 

Accompanied by a few men and taking only a rifle and 

139 



THE BTG GAME OF AFRICA 

a shotgun, I had gone up into the dense bush near the 
Kijabe Railroad station to shoot a small antelope for my 
table. We had walked fifteen to twenty minutes, when we 
suddenly came across fresh rhinoceros tracks, but, as we 
had only gone out for the antelope, we left the track and 
went in the direction of an open place, overgrown with 
grass, where the natives had told me that they had seen 
the antelopes feeding about an hour before. Just before 
we reached this place, the vicious old rhino dashed out 
at us from the thick bush. My men disappeared as if 
swallowed up by the ground, and, although I turned around 
as quickly as possible, the rhino's head was not more than 
two yards and a half from the muzzle of the gun when 
I pulled the trigger of the little Mannlicher. The beast 
fell instantly, but the momentum of his charge hurled his 
body to my very feet. I assure the reader that it is no ex- 
aggeration to say that it was actually less than six inches 
between the rhino's nose and my left foot ! Had the bullet 
not found the brain, nothing in the world could have saved 
me from being killed by the ugly brute. This rhino must 
have been very old, for his horn, so powerful at its base, 
was worn down until probably only one third of its original 
length remained. 

The scent of the rhinoceros is very sharp indeed, and 
in this respect he is exceeded only by the elephant. I have 
tried on the open plains to see how far a rhinoceros would 
be able to scent a couple of men if the wind was not too 
light. Rhinos that were feeding with their noses to the 
ground and evidently not suspecting any danger at all, 
scented us often at a distance of from two hundred and 
fifty to three hundred yards. When the big pachyderm 

140 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

scents a human being, he generally runs forward in the 
direction of the place from which the scent comes, to locate 
his enemy, and to " investigate," not always meaning to 
charge in any vicious way. Eight out of the twelve rhi- 
noceros that I have shot, I have had to kill, as they charged 
down on me, evidently meaning mischief, although in sev- 
eral instances I waited with the fatal shot and gave the 
rhinos a chance to change their minds, until they were 
within a few yards of me, when I did not care to have 
them *' investigate " any closer. 

It is impossible to say what a rhino will do in certain 
circumstances, for one time he will run away from and 
another time he will charge down on his pursuer in exactly 
the same situations. I remember once, when our caravan 
was marching from the Laikipia Plateau toward Mt. 
Kenia, how a large rhinoceros was feeding right in the 
little native path, which we were following at the time. 
Not wanting to kill the animal, but at the same time not 
willing to risk the lives of any of the porters of the cara- 
van, I consulted with the gun bearers and nearest men as 
to what we had better do. They proposed that we should 
make as much noise as possible, shouting and beating with 
sticks on empty water pails, to frighten away the rhino. 
As we began this terrible " kelele " the rhino, which was 
only some seventy-five yards away, tlirew up his head and 
tail and rushed away as quickly as he could. 

A few months later, however, when we were marching 
toward Sotik through the Southern Kedong Valley, we 
had an experience of an entirely different character. We 
were following along an old Masai cattle trail, close to the 
foothills of the Mau escarpment, when, reaching the top of 
11 141 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

a little ridge, we discovered two large rhinos calmly feed- 
ing close to each other on either side of the little path, 
only a few hundred yards away from us. The animals 
were walking slowly in the same direction as we, and as 
we would have caught up with them in a very little while, 
we decided to try our old method of scaring them away 
with great noise. On a certain signal, some fifty of us 
shouted at the top of our lungs, while others beat empty 
water cans and pails. This had the unexpected effect that 
both animals instantly whirled around and charged down 
on us like a team of horses, running along close to each 
other, one on each side of the little path. 

I had several times heard that if a large animal is hit 
on one side, it invariably turns out toward the other side 
to find his pursuer, and not wanting to kill any of the 
beasts, I fired, when they had come within some fifty yards, 
hitting each of them on the side facing the other. It was 
just as if a mighty wedge had been driven in between the 
animals, for they suddenly separated and ran away in dif- 
ferent directions. The female disappeared on our right 
into a clump of bushes, whereas the larger one, an old male 
with a fine horn, rushed off to our left into the open. 
After making a run for a few seconds, he suddenly changed 
his mind, possibly annoyed by the noise and laughter of 
the men, and turning around, he charged us again with 
uplifted tail and lowered horn, coming on as fast as he 
could ! 

In the meanwhile I had had time to reload the big rifle 
and was ready to give him a " warm reception." Between 
us and the charging brute was a low, circular anthill, only 
some fifteen yards away, and I said to Mr. Lang and the 

142 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

gun bearers, who begged me to shoot, that I would wait 
until the rhino had reached the anthill, to see if he would 
not change his mind before that. It seemed almost as if 
the rhino had been a mind-reader, for, having reached 
the outer edge of the hill, he suddenly stopped, snorted and 
pufifed, and threw up the red clay with his front feet. With 
the gun to the shoulder, I shouted, much to the amusement 
of my men, " Njoo, Mzee, mimi tayari " (" Come on, old 
fellow, I am ready "). He showed his anger in this way 
for a few seconds, and then turned around and ran off to 
our left, exposing a long flesh wound of about eighteen 
inches, from which the blood was trickling, proving that 
the big bullet had only plowed through his thick skin for 
that distance, causing him no serious injury whatever. 

Of the ferocity and courage of the African rhinoceros 
many contrary things have been said. While some people 
hold that the rhino is an exceedingly clumsy and stupid 
beast, which very seldom attacks the hunter, and in most 
instances runs away when molested, others consider him 
one of the most dangerous animals in existence. I myself 
side with the latter, having had, as already mentioned, a 
good many narrow escapes from these vicious brutes. Be- 
fore I had ever met a rhino, I believed that they were not 
to be classed among the more dangerous game animals, 
but my first experience with these beasts soon gave me 
a different opinion about them. One day when encamped 
not far from the Kijabe railway station I had remained 
in my tent, as the rain was pouring down, and as I also 
had some writing to do. Suddenly a Wandorobo hunter 
came running into the camp, shouting that he had located 
a rhino, and that he knew from the tracks that it must be a 

143 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

very large one. As I had never seen a rhinoceros yet in 
his wild state, and was most anxious to secure a fine 
specimen for the museum, besides having the excitement 
of a rhinoceros hunt, I flung away my writing parapher- 
nalia, took a couple of guns, the gun bearer and a few men, 
and followed the tracker. 

We soon had to go through an almost impenetrable 
jungle, where we in places had to crawl on hands and feet 
to be able to advance at all. After two hours of such hard 
marching in the pouring rain, we finally found the fresh 
rhinoceros track. Having followed it for another hour 
through similar circumstances, the men suddenly stopped 
and consulted with one another. They then all tried to 
make me understand that it was no use to go any farther, 
because the " rhino had gone too far away." But I gath- 
ered enough, from what they had said, to understand that 
they were afraid to follow the beast any longer in this ter- 
rible jungle. I was sure that they wanted to deceive me, 
and that they were simply tired of the pursuit and afraid 
to go any farther, as we could plainly see that not only one, 
but two rhinos had passed over the same path, one after 
the other. I upbraided them for their cowardice, and 
told them to go ahead, and that under no circumstances 
would I return to camp before we had at least seen the 
rhinos. 

Now they came straight out and told me that it was a 
most dangerous undertaking to follow two of these big 
brutes in such dense jungle. They said that if I per- 
sisted in going any farther I would have to take the lead 
myself and they would follow close behind me. This I 
did without hesitation, fortunately exchanging the .405 

144 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

Winchester for the heavy .577 Express, which the gun 
bearer had been carrying behind me up to that time. 

In perfect silence and as quietly as possible we followed 
in the tracks of the big beasts, being particularly careful 
not to step on any dead branches, nor to make any other 
noise, which might disturb the animals. We had not gone 
on thus more than perhaps ten or fifteen minutes before 
the men stopped again. They now tried even harder than 
before to make me give up the pursuit. Again they said 
that it was useless to follow the rhinos, as they were much 
" too far away " from us to be overtaken. Before I had 
even a chance to reply, the rhinos themselves answered 
with their peculiar angry sniff, only a couple of dozen 
yards or so away from us ! 

Where we stood, the jungle was so dense that it was 
almost impossible to move the arms freely, or to raise a 
gun, but I saw a little to my left, and in the direction from 
where the noise of the rhinos came, a small opening, for 
which I quickly made, thinking myself followed by the 
gun bearer and the rest of the men. Louder and louder 
sounded the crashing of the trees, as the big beasts came 
charging down upon us, and, turning around to see if the 
gun bearer was ready with the reserve gun, there was not 
a man in sight. It was as if the earth had swallowed them 
all! 

As I reached one end of the little opening, out shot the 
head of a big rhino on the opposite side, only about twenty 
feet away. A flash and a tremendous roar from the pow- 
erful gun, and the huge rhino rolled over only a few feet 
away from me, his brain pierced by the powerful steel- 
jacketed bullet! Just as I was gasping for breath, and 

145 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

before I had time even to lower the gun, Mabruki's, the 
gun bearer's, voice rang out from the top of a nearby 
tree, " Bwana, ingine anakuja " ("Master, another one 
is coming "). 

Hardly had he finished his sentence than I saw Rhino 
No. 2 charging down upon me from another side, and, 
turning toward him, I gave him the second barrel, with 
which I was fortunate enough to hit the head again just 
back of the second horn, and down he went, stone dead. 
Within less than a minute's time and with only two suc- 
cessive shots of the big Express gun, I had succeeded 
in felling the first two rhinos which I had ever seen at 
large. 

It is impossible to describe the joy I felt when I was 
resting on the side of one of my fallen " enemies," for if 
I had not understood any of the language of the men, 
or had I hesitated and returned to camp at their sugges- 
tion, I probably would never have had this wonderful ex- 
perience. It is in a case like this that the hunter cannot 
depend upon anybody else for protection, and in such 
dense jungle he has to rely upon his own nerve, swiftness 
of decision and good aim, more than upon any fellow 
huntsman, be he ever so near at hand. To show how un- 
certain it is to count on the stupidity of the rhino, or to 
believe, as a prominent English sportsman and author af- 
firms, that perhaps only once out of two hundred and fifty 
times the rhino means mischief when charging, as he 
is coming on only to " investigate," I will here relate a few 
facts that certainly speak for themselves. 

Dr. Kolb, a German scientist and hunter, was one day 
bird-shooting a few years ago in German East Africa, 

146 




Two Different Types of Rhinos. 
The upper one represents the bush rhino, the lower one the rhino of the 
plains. Note the difterence in the shape of the lips and relative position 
of the eyes. The little " extra horn " between the two horns of the 
upper rhino is, of course, unusual. 




Another Splendid Trophy. 



\ 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

when he was suddenly charged by a large female rhi- 
noceros. Although not accompanied by any calf, a circum- 
stance which often makes these " mothers " vicious, this 
rhino, without any provocation whatever, charged down on 
the doctor, who at the time was only armed with a shot- 
gun. Hearing the angry sniffings of the rhino, and the 
breaking down of the bush as she came on, the doctor 
tried to run for cover, and for a few seconds raced around 
a small but dense clump of bushes, closely followed by 
the vicious brute. Having discovered a large tree with a 
big cavity near the ground, the doctor unfortunately made 
for the same. No sooner had he entered the cavity than 
the rhino was upon him, and with its powerful horn killed 
him in a few seconds, mutilating him in a most horrible 
way, while the cowardly native followers looked on from 
nearby trees, without doing anything to distract the atten- 
tion of the rhino from the doctor. 

Mr. C. Schillings, in his wonderful experiences as a 
pioneer wild-animal photographer, relates also in his in- 
teresting book, *' With Flashlight and Rifle," a good many 
instances of having been charged by a number of rhinos, 
which he had not provoked in the least. In fact, he had 
several times made regular detours, so as not to come too 
near the vicious brutes, which, in spite of all precautions, 
had scented him and charged him and his caravan. Once, 
Mr. Schillings relates, one of his porters was badly gored 
and tossed by a rhino, which suddenly " ran amuck " of 
the caravan. Wonderful enough, this particular native, 
who had actually had his intestines thrown out of his body 
by the rhino, subsequently recovered, without seeming to 
be any the worse for his experience. 

147 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

An Austrian nobleman, whom I met in British East Af- 
rica in 1906, told me of three very narrow escapes from 
charging rhinos. Once he himself had had his left shoulder 
bruised by a rhino which charged madly down upon him. 
In spite of having been twice badly wounded, the beast 
rushed so close past the Austrian, who with a side step 
tried to save himself, that the rhino's shoulder hit him, 
hurling him several feet out of the animal's way, while the 
brute fortunately continued straight ahead. On another 
occasion a female rhinoceros, accompanied by a young 
calf, was encountered in the dense bush country on the 
Mau escarpment, as the caravan was moving along in the 
early morning. Suddenly there was an outcry among the 
porters, who threw down their loads right and left, while 
an angry rhino mother made straight for the cook, whom 
it unfortunately succeeded in tearing to pieces with its 
sharp-pointed horn before the hunter killed it with a well- 
aimed bullet from his Mannlicher rifle. 

Not even at night is the caravan perfectly safe from 
rhino attacks, and a good many times I have myself had 
nightly visits from the dangerous pachyderm. Once when 
in camp on the western slopes of Mt. Kenia I was awak- 
ened during a moonlight night by shoutings and great 
commotion in camp. Taking the big Express, I ran out 
in front of the tent and came just in time to see the hind- 
quarters of a big rhino, evidently a male, which had run 
right through the camp between some of the porters' tents, 
and had passed within three yards of my own tent, al- 
though at the time a strong fire was blazing. 

Mr. Percival, the assistant game ranger in Nairobi, 
told me of a similar, although much worse experience, 

148 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

which he had had a couple of years ago. One night he 
was awakened by a feehng of unrest, as if something had 
gone wrong in his camp. His incHnation was to get up 
immediately to investigate, but being very tired from a 
long march the previous day, and seeing that the big camp 
fire was blazing, and the Askari awake, he again lay down, 
wishing he might be able to go to sleep again. For some 
reason it was not possible for him to feel comfortable, hav- 
ing again the strong feeling that he should get up and look 
around the camp. Finally he decided to do so, took his 
big gun, and went out among the porters' tents to see if 
everything was all right. Hardly had he left his tent, 
when a big rhino rushed, full speed on, through his camp. 
Passing right over the fire itself, he ran down Mr. 
Percival's own tent, and, putting one of his heavy feet 
right on the very couch, which a few minutes before 
had been occupied by the sleeping game ranger, broke it 
in pieces. 

In 1909 I was told of a similar experience in German 
East Africa by a Mr. Herman Gelder, of Berlin, who had 
made an extended shooting trip through the southern and 
western part of the German Protectorate. With over one 
hundred porters, Mr. Gelder was encamped at the edge 
of a large forest not very far from the eastern shore of 
Lake Tanganyika. Having seen a good many rhinoceros's 
tracks in the vicinity, before camp was pitched, the pre- 
caution was taken of making a small " boma " around the 
camp. This was done by heaping cut-ofif branches of thorn 
bushes and trees in a circle around the camp. Having ac- 
complished this, he ordered a big camp fire to be kept burn- 
ing during the night. Suddenly, about 2 o'clock in the 

149 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

morning, Mr. Gelder was awakened by a tremendous out- 
cry, and, when he had rushed out to investigate, he found 
that a rhino had broken through the boma, which was too 
low and thin, and had killed one of his Askaris, who had 
been sitting at the fire. 

In camping in countries infested with rhinos and lions, 
the only safe device is to make a strong boma of thorn 
bushes all around the camp, or else in a horseshoe form, 
leaving a large camp fire to protect the small opening in 
the *' wall." If this hedge is made eight to nine feet high 
and ten to twelve feet wide, it gives a perfect protection 
from rhinos and lions, although instances have occurred, 
as before related, where both rhinos and lions did not heed 
the camp fire. However, it very seldom happens that any 
wild beast ventures too near a blazing fire, particularly if 
it is of good size. 

According to my own experiences with rhinos, I believe 
them to be the most dangerous of African game, as one 
never knows exactly what a rhino will do. As one is most 
often attacked by these vicious brutes in very dense jungle, 
it is impossible to see them before they are within a few 
yards. At such close quarters it is rather unsafe to let 
the rhino " investigate " any further, and the best thing to 
do then is to place a bullet in his forehead, for a heart shot 
will very seldom kill a rhino instantly. I have known 
of a case where an Englishman shot no less than twelve 
bullets from a .500 Express rifle into the body of a rhino, 
two of which bullets had touched the heart, and two or 
three penetrated the lungs. Yet the hunter was killed by 
this rhino, which, after goring his antagonist, walked over 
a hundred yards away before he fell. 

150 



THE AFRICAN RHINOCEROS 

As the rhino, in spite of his dangerous character, is 
partially protected both in German and British East Af- 
rica, and as he not only exists on the open plains, where 
he is not nearly so dangerous, and much more easy to kill, 
but also inhabits the densest jungles, he will probably be 
one of the last big animals to be exterminated. 



CHAPTER X 

THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

The antelopes belong with right to the bovine family, 
and seem to be animals which are a good deal like both 
oxen and sheep, either of which species some antelopes re- 
semble so much that they are not easily distinguished from 
the same. How little radical difference, for instance, be- 
tween an eland and an ox, or between a chamois, generally 
classed among the goats, and a springbok, a puku, or even 
a reed buck! 

The large antelope family is characterized from other 
animals of their size by their graceful build and their 
beautiful heads and horns, carried a great deal higher than 
the level of the back. In some species of antelopes both 
males and females have horns, but in a good many others 
of the finest of those animals only the males carry horns. 
The horns of the antelopes may be characterized by their 
long, slender, and more or less cylindrical form, and al- 
ways by the fact that they are never grown out into dif- 
ferent branches as those of the elk or moose. A great 
many of the antelopes carry most beautifully shaped horns, 
some of them, like the young impala, having horns forming 
a perfect lyre, while others, like the greater kudu, have 
them grown up in graceful spirals in the shape of enor- 
mous corkscrews. Some of the antelopes' horns show 

152 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

prominent year rings, running up to within a few inches 
of the tip, and all of the horns of the antelopes, with a few 
exceptions, grow almost straight upward and then for- 
ward or backward. 

The bony internal core of the horns of almost all 
antelopes is not honeycombed and full of holes, like that 
of oxen, sheep, and goats, but hard and entirely solid. 
Another characteristic of the antelope, with very few ex- 
ceptions, is an easily distinguished gland beneath the eye, 
which is entirely lacking in oxen and goats. Then again 
while certain antelopes' teeth very much resemble those 
of oxen, others are more like the teeth of sheep and goats. 

The antelopes have in ages past exclusively inhabited 
Southern and Western Asia, from whence centuries ago 
they migrated into Africa, through Arabia. With few and 
less important species as exceptions, the antelopes proper 
now inhabit only the Dark Continent, having almost com- 
pletely disappeared from their former home, a fact that 
still puzzles zoologians. The whole of South Africa was 
once literally alive with antelopes of all kinds, and I have 
myself heard tales from a good many old Boers, telling of 
how, only a few decades ago, antelopes, such as the eland, 
gnu, the oryx, different kinds of hartebeests and others, ex- 
isted there in uncountable herds. But, alas ! most of these 
antelopes are now very rare, and some of them entirely 
exterminated in South Africa. 

It is in the countries to the north of the Zambesi River, 
in Nyassaland, parts of Portuguese, German, and British 
East Africa, that the hunter now meets the largest antelope 
herds in existence. In these countries the vast plains at- 
tract the antelopes, and they can still be seen there in great 

153 



THE BIG GAME OE AFRICA 

numbers. I am sorry, however, to say that in the few years 
between 1906 and 19 10 these herds have noticeably dimin- 
ished. Where I in 1906 saw Hterally thousands of harte- 
beests, wildebeests, and zebra, I found in 19 10 only hun- 
dreds. In spite of game laws and large game preserves, 
it is probably only a question of time when most of these 
graceful animals will be rare, and some of them possibly 
exterminated also in the aforenamed countries. 

The eland is the largest of all antelopes. Years ago 
great herds of this magnificent beast roamed around all 
over South Africa, but they are now practically extinct 
in the country south of the Orange River. They are at 
present most plentiful in Nyassaland, German and British 
East Africa. In this latter country they are fairly com- 
mon, and with the present strict game laws and big, suit- 
able game preserves, the eland will probably survive in 
British East Africa for a good many decades to come. The 
best place to secure a fine eland in the last-named pro- 
tectorate is, without doubt, the Kenia-Laikipia region. The 
eland seems to develop larger and more powerful horns 
in this part of the country than in the southern part of the 
protectorate, where he is easily found on and around the 
Sotik and Loita plains. Even not far from Nairobi, to the 
northeast of the Athi Plains, and down along both the Athi 
and Tana Rivers, the eland is still quite plentiful, although 
lately he has been hunted there considerably. 

The eland is particularly fond of bush and open forest 
country, but in places where they are not much hunted 
they are quite often found even on the plains; still they 
never go very far away from some kind of cover. In dis- 
tricts where the eland has been a good deal disturbed he 

154 
















Ordtxary Bcsh Buck, Shot ox Aberdark Mountains. 



"W 




Head of a New Variety of Bush Buck Called " Tragclaphus fjaderi." 

Compare this with the photograph above and note the difference in the 

markings and shape of head. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

shuns the plains during the day, visiting them only at 
night for the purpose of drinking and feeding, returning 
at dawn of day to his favorite haunts, where he loves to 
stand, or lie down to rest and sleep during the heat of the 
day, preferably in the shadow of big trees. Native hunters 
have repeatedly assured me that the eland is one of those 
animals which are able to go for a long time without 
drinking any water, and this has been corroborated by the 
experiences of a good many hunters. It is possible that the 
eland for days, and perhaps for weeks, at a time may be 
satisfied with the water he gets, when he feeds on the dew- 
drenched grass in the early morning. Mr. Selous thinks 
that in Southern Africa the eland used to feed on melons, 
which temporarily satisfied his need of moisture. 

As the eland is also one of the many African animals 
which is bothered with a great many ticks, he is very often 
accompanied by the " rhinoceros bird," which, as in the 
case of the rhino, not only helps the eland to get rid of 
most of the parasites, but also warns him of any approach- 
ing danger. Being, besides this, an exceedingly wary ani- 
mal, with evidently very good eyesight, he is most difficult 
to stalk, and I have spent hours and hours trying to get 
close enough to the eland to secure a good snapshot, but 
failed to do so without first wounding the animal. 

When a herd of eland is disturbed, the animals are able 
to run ofif at great speed, and it is amusing indeed to see 
how these heavy creatures are able to make such high 
leaps as they do when they stampede. When an eland ob- 
serves the hunter at a distance, he generally stands still for 
a moment, squarely facing him and switching his tail to 
and fro, just a few minutes before he is ready to gallop 

155 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

off. A good horse is, as a rule, able to keep pace with, and 
even overtake, an average eland, if the ground is not too 
rough, the cows being better runners than the bulls. 

A full-grown bull eland stands as high as five feet 
eight inches and more over the shoulders, while the mighty 
horns, spherically twisted, and with a sharp ridge running 
along almost to the tip, sometimes measure thirty inches. 
This animal is one of the few large antelopes among which 
the females also carry horns, although these are generally a 
great deal thinner than those of the bulls and have the 
ridges much less marked, but in length the horns of a cow 
may far exceed those of any male. 

The color of the skin of the young eland is a reddish 
chestnut, and is often marked with well-defined, white 
stripes, which run down along the sides from a dark brown 
band on the back. Old bulls very often turn to a dark 
slate-color, sometimes appearing grayish blue. Both males 
and females carry large dewlaps, and particularly the males 
develop a large quantity of dark brown, bushy hair on the 
forehead, below the horns. The eland feeds, as a rule, in 
small bands of from ten to twenty, but after the close 
of the dry season much larger herds may be seen, often 
coming down to water holes on the plains. Single bulls, 
roaming around alone far from the herd, as in the case 
of elephants, rhinos, and giraffes, are rarely encountered. 

As already stated, it is exceedingly hard to get up close 
to a herd of eland, for if a single animal detects the hunter, 
it seems to be able quickly and intelligently to communicate 
" the news " to the rest of the band. I found several times, 
when stalking small herds of eland, that if only a single 
animal could for a moment see me, the whole herd would 

156 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

gallop off in another second, with their strange, heavy 
leaps, and then sometimes go a long distance before set- 
tling down to feed again. On the Sotik plains I once put 
up a couple of fine eland bulls, which I succeeded in sep- 
arating from a small herd and then stalked for hours, with 
a view of getting a good snap shot of them, but all in vain. 
The animals had evidently not been much hunted, for 
they would let me come up to within some two hundred 
yards of them each time. Then they galloped off for an- 
other few hundred yards, when they would stop again, 
until I had managed to steal up to about the same dis- 
tance as before. 

My experience this time proved the great vitality of 
the eland. At about four o'clock in the afternoon I had 
come up again within some two hundred yards of the 
animals, and determined that if I could not get a snap shot 
of them, I should shoot the largest of the two, both because 
we needed the meat and because some of my Kikuju men 
had begged me to let them have the tough skin to cut into 
straps, with which to carry their loads. This tribe gener- 
ally does this in such a way that they let the load rest on 
the back, with the sling supporting it from the forehead, 
just as the hunting guides in northeastern United States 
and Canada. It was impossible to photograph the bulls, 
and so I fired with the .405 Winchester with a steel-capped 
bullet, aiming for the heart of the largest eland. At the 
crack of the gun both bounded off in big leaps, and my 
gun bearer expressed his disappointment again in the 
words : " Hapana piga, bwana," or " You did not hit, sir." 
I felt quite surprised myself, as I thought I had taken a 
very careful aim, but being sure that I must have hit the 
13 157 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

animal at least somewhere near the heart, I started toward 
the clump of big trees, in the shade of which the two eland 
had stood when I shot. 

There was not a sign of any blood marks on this 
spot, but as we followed the spoor of the two, one of the 
native trackers observed a few drops of blood on twigs, 
which evidently had rubbed against the side of the wounded 
eland. From the height of the marks, I understood that the 
shot must have hit somewhere in the vicinity of the heart. 
After having gone exactly two hundred and twenty-five 
paces from the place, where the eland had been when I 
fired, I found the big bull dead on the ground. The steel- 
capped Winchester bullet had gone in through his right 
side, clean through the lower, pointed part of the heart, 
broken a rib on the opposite side, and was buried in the 
fat under the skin on the left-hand side of the animal, 
from where I cut it out. Had I not been sure that I must 
have hit the eland in a good place, I might have given up 
the chase when we saw the two animals dart away. This 
shows how very careful one must be in following up any 
game shot at, that the trophies may not be lost, or that the 
animals be not put to unnecessary suffering through the 
carelessness of the hunter. 

In spite of the great size and comparative strength of 
the eland, which would make him a terrible antagonist to 
either a man or a horse, if he were bent on mischief, it must 
be remarked that the eland is of a wonderfully mild tem- 
perament. Although it has been said that eland cows, 
when accompanied by very young calves, sometimes have 
courage enough to attack hunting dogs, and even men, in 
the attempt to defend their offspring, I have had several 

158 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

opportunities to see how perfectly gentle a big, strong eland 
bull is, even if cornered and wounded. 

Once while marching along the Guaso Narok River on 
the Laikipia Plateau, I was suddenly confronted by a large 
eland bull, which was accompanied by two or three cows. 
I had been expecting leopards from fresh tracks, seen 
only a few minutes before, so that when I saw the bush 
move some fifty yards in front of me, I had the gun already 
up to the shoulder. When the big eland bull suddenly 
emerged, I half involuntarily pulled the trigger, with the 
result that the stately beast instantly sank down on his 
knees, while the cows galloped away. Feeling very bad 
over my mistake, I handed the rifle to the gun bearer, and 
took the camera to get a snap shot or two before the mag- 
nificent old bull should expire. As I came around the near- 
est bush in front of the eland, I faced him not more than 
eight or ten yards away. Instantly he got up on his legs 
again. I snapped the camera and was just trying to 
change the film, when the big bull whirled around and took 
a few leaps away from me, after which he fell dead. I 
am perfectly convinced that had he wanted to do so, 
he could easily have gored me, unarmed as I was, if 
he had attacked me at the moment I was trying to take 
his picture. 

The meat of the eland is perfectly delicious, and dur- 
ing the season when the animal has plenty of fresh grass 
to feed on, it would favorably compare with the best of 
beef. The eland is one of the few African antelopes 
which is blessed with a considerable amount of fat. His 
mighty leg bones contain a great deal of marrow, which 
is delicious to eat on toasted bread, or else very useful 

159 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

for the purpose of greasing guns and knives, in which re- 
spect eland marrow fat is without a superior. 

The eland is quite easily tamed and could, I believe, 
with great advantage, be domesticated, and also crossed 
with native cattle, which doubtlessly would procure a su- 
perior race, for the milk of the eland cow is very fine and 
rich. Some government officials have been of the opinion 
that the eland should be withdrawn from the list of ani- 
mals allowed to be killed without a special license, as they 
believe that, if domesticated, it would materially improve 
the native stock of the country. Elands have been easily 
brought over to the different zoological parks of the civ- 
ilized world, and thrive in the open, even in England, if 
only protected during the coldest part of the winter. 

The Roan antelope is another of the large and beau- 
tiful animals of this group. A few decades ago this animal 
was found almost all over Africa, from the vicinity of Cape 
Town up to the southern part of the Sahara Desert, with 
the only exception of the damp Congo forest. To-day the 
roan is totally exterminated in all parts of Southern Af- 
rica, below the Limpopo River. From this region, how- 
ever, as far north as to the Upper Nile, the lovely roan 
still exists, although never in abundance, nor in such vast 
herds as many other antelopes. 

The roan selects his feeding grounds with a great deal 
of care and " taste," and being very fond of good water, 
he is never found very far from some stream or water 
hole. He seems to love a parklike, half-open bush coun- 
try with undulating hills. One of his favorite feeding 
grounds in British East Africa is the beautiful wooded 
valley on either side of the Uganda Railroad, between the 

1 60 




Head of a Large Bull Eland 




Wounded Roan Antelope, just Before the Last Charge, 
Shot near Muhoroni R. R. Station. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

station Muhuroni and Kibigori, not far from the Victoria 
Nyanza. Here, on the northern side of the railroad, I 
went out for the first time to hunt the roan in January, 
1910. 

I arrived at Muhuroni railroad station after a long and 
tedious march of a whole day, during which I had severely 
injured my right leg in a successful attempt to scare off 
a number of actually charging Masai bulls. At the station 
I met two Englishmen, who had both been out for several 
days in the vicinity, looking for roan antelopes, but who 
saw only fresh tracks of them. They were very much 
discouraged, and told me that I had no chance whatever 
to get a roan, particularly as I was not in any condition to 
make a very long tour on foot. This part of the country 
lies rather low, and is very much hotter than most other 
parts of British East Africa. It is also infested by the 
dangerous tsetse fly, so deadly to horses that the hunter 
cannot with safety use ponies. This news was rather dis- 
couraging, but as I had come all the way to this place to 
hunt for a roan, I did not feel it fair to myself to give up 
before I had at least tried my luck for one day. 

The Hindu station master at Muhuroni told me that in 
the country to the north of the station, some three miles 
away from the track, was a place near a little stream 
where I was most likely to find roan antelopes at this time 
of the year. With my right leg black and blue, and swelled 
to almost twice its size, I started out before four o'clock 
the following morning. Guided by the half-moon, shin- 
ing down from a clear sky, we started off toward the re- 
gion mentioned by the station master, with one of his 
private servants as an additional guide. 

161 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Every step hurt me so that it seemed as if it would 
have been a rehef to scream, and the progress we made 
was rather slow. We had just descended a small ridge 
of hills, and were making for the stream of which the 
station master had spoken, when the sun rose. First, then, 
it became possible for me to scan the lovely parklike coun- 
try all around with the powerful field glasses. After hav- 
ing searched for a few minutes, I soon discovered, to 
my indescribable joy, a big roan antelope all by himself, 
proudly walking along with slow strides and erect head, 
making for the source of the stream up among the moun- 
tains, some three miles farther away to our right. The 
roan was about eight hundred to nine hundred yards away 
from where we stood, and as there was absolutely no cover 
in a straight line between the antelope and us, we remained 
motionless, until a few minutes later the beautiful animal 
became partly hidden by trees and bushes. I saw that it 
was impossible for me in my condition to run down toward 
the river in time to get a shot at the animal before he 
would be too far away. I, therefore, sent two of my swift- 
est Kikuju men to run as carefully and fast as they could 
up along our side of the stream, crouching down in the 
high grass in open places, so that the roan should not be 
able to see them before they had reached the place where 
the river emerges from the mountains. 

From there I told them to cross the stream and walk 
slowly down along the little river, one at fifty yards dis- 
tance and the other about two hundred yards from the 
water, so that they would head the animal off and possibly 
make it return the same way it had come. In an instant 
the two light-footed savages ran off and soon disappeared 

162 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

among the bush and high grass. The rest of us made a 
bee-line for the river, so as to be ready on the other side, 
should the antelope return, as I had calculated. As quickly 
as I could with my wounded leg, we went down to the 
stream, which we immediately crossed. After having ar- 
rived on the other side, I left a string of men from the 
river up to a thick clump of bushes, some two hundred 
yards away from the water, where I sat down to watch 
developments. 

Everything worked to perfection and exactly as I had 
calculated. The two runners had arrived just in time to 
turn the roan antelope back again, and as they, strangely 
enough, strictly obeyed instructions, and only walked 
slowly down without making any noise, the antelope sim- 
ply strolled back in the same direction in which he had 
come up. I had only watched from behind the bushes 
for some four to five minutes, when my gun bearer first 
spied the antelope, and whispering " Anakuja " ("He 
comes "), pointed out the beautiful roan coming leisurely 
along at some seventy-five to eighty yards distance. 

First taking a couple of snap shots, which unfortunately 
afterwards turned out to be too " thin," the light not be- 
ing strong enough for so rapid exposures, I brought the 
animal down to his knees with a bullet from the 1 1 milli- 
meter Mauser. Thinking that the roan now was too badly 
wounded to be able to escape, I exchanged the gun for 
the camera and cautiously walked toward the wounded 
antelope, the gun bearer, of his own accord, following very 
closely with the rifle. I had only gone a few yards, when 
the antelope suddenly jumped up and ran away, but after 
a few seconds stopped again and sank to his knees. Ad- 

163 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

vancing as quickly as I could, so as to be able to secure 
another snap shot at closer quarters, and when within some 
fifteen yards of the animal, I took two successful pictures 
of the stately antelope. Once more he tried to get up, 
but this time, to my amazement, not with the intention of 
escaping, but with revenge in his mind. With lowered 
horns and uttering some strange-sounding bellowlike 
grunts, he rushed at me. Once more he went down on his 
knees, only a few yards away, when I had time to " snap 
him " again. Quickly I exchanged the camera for the 
rifle. This was hardly done, before the courageous roan 
made a last attempt to attack, but as he struggled to his 
feet, another shot put an end to his agony. 

A large bull roan will reach five feet in height over the 
shoulders. He carries a pair of beautiful, sharp-pointed 
horns, curving backwards like a Turkish saber, and show- 
ing very marked, round year rings. The color of the 
grown-up animals varies from light brown to dark gray. 
The face is almost black, with lovely white patches of hair 
on the forehead, below the eyes, running down in a wedge- 
shape toward the nose. The roan is one of the few ante- 
lopes that carries a well-developed mane, which consists 
of very straight, coarse hair, about three to four inches 
in height. The under side of his neck and lower jaw, 
as well as part of his belly, is almost snow-white, which 
makes the skin of this animal very beautiful indeed. 

The roan antelope goes, as a rule, in small herds of 
twelve to eighteen. They are very shy and wary, and 
belong to the most courageous of animals. It has often 
happened in South Africa, where this antelope was often 
hunted on horseback with a pack of dogs, that a wounded 

164 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

bull roan finished two or three hunting dogs before the 
sportsman got a chance to kill it with a shot at close range. 

According to many hunters' opinion, the sable is the 
most beautiful of the large antelope family. He is some- 
what smaller in the body than his cousin, the roan, but his 
horns are considerably larger and more beautiful, not sel- 
dom attaining a length of forty to forty-five inches, meas- 
ured along the curve. At the base of the same there is 
a kind of bump over the eyes, from which the horns grace- 
fully sweep backward in the same shape as those of the 
roan, and ending also in very sharp points. The year 
rings are well developed and beautifully marked, reaching 
almost to within three inches of the tips. The sable ante- 
lope has even more of a mane than the roan, and the 
patches of white below the eyes run out into a point near 
the nostrils, where they join the white streaks of the under 
jaw. The color of the upper part of the sable antelope's 
body is of a rich glossy black, strangely contrasted with 
the almost snow-white tint of his belly. 

The sable is now rarely ever found south of the Orange 
River, and does not go farther north than to the southern 
part of British East Africa. In this protectorate he is 
only found in the hot and damp coast belt south and 
southwest of Mombasa. The richly wooded Shimba Hills, 
a day and a half's march from Mombasa, seem to be one 
of the favorite feeding grounds of this beautiful antelope. 
These hills can be reached either by marching overland 
most of the way, or else by hiring a dhow, which may take^ 
the hunting party for a good many miles southwest over 
the Kilindini Bay, from where it is only a short day's 
march to the shooting grounds. As the Shimba Hills and 

165 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

their surroundings are practically the only places where 
the sable antelope can be hunted in British East Africa, 
it has been shot over a good deal of late, so that the horns 
of the remaining animals are not nearly as large and 
beautiful as those from German East Africa and Nyassa- 
land. It was around these hills that Mr. Kermit Roose- 
velt, in the fall of 1909, succeeded in getting a couple of 
fairly good heads. 

The sable antelope is one of the most wary animals 
and seems to be possessed of splendid eyesight, which 
makes him very difficult to stalk. He is nowhere very 
plentiful, and seldom seen in herds of more than twenty 
to forty animals, but more frequently met with in small 
bands of from ten to fifteen, males and females. If pur- 
sued, the sable antelope is capable of great speed, and as he 
also seems to possess a good deal of staying qualities, he 
is very hard, indeed, to overtake on horseback. However, 
if the country is not too rough or dense, a good horse will, 
as a rule, be able to catch up with this antelope, unless he 
has had too much of a start. 

The sable, together with his cousin, the roan, are prob- 
ably the two most courageous of the antelope family. If 
a bull sable is wounded and sees his pursuer at close quar- 
ters, he will invariably charge down on him with great 
speed and determination, and with his mighty horns he 
might be a very dangerous antagonist. In South Africa, 
where in former days he was also hunted with dogs, he 
often used to play great havoc with the pack, when they 
approached him too closely. The natives are very fond 
of making flutes of the horns of the sable antelope by cut- 
ting a couple of holes in the upper part of the hollow horn. 

166 










Wounded Sable Antelope. 




T'f^-^P'^ y*^ 



Small Herd of Wildebeests, the White Bearded Gnu, Sotik, 1909. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

On this improvised flute they sometimes play for hours 
two or three notes, which, with the dull sound of the native 
drum for an accompaniment, constitutes the only " music " 
to the much-liked '* ngoma," or native dance. 

Of all antelopes, none is more curious looking and 
strangely behaving than the wildebeest, or gnu, as it is 
often called. There are a number of very closely allied 
species of the wildebeest, distributed from the northern 
parts of the Cape Colony up to Uganda and British East 
Africa. In the southern part of the latter protectorate 
the white-bearded gnu is one of the commonest game ani- 
mals, sometimes seen even from the Uganda Railroad in 
herds of hundreds at a time. Mr. Selous describes the 
beast very characteristically in a few words when he says : 
" It appears to have the head of a buflfalo, the tail of a 
horse, and the limbs and hoofs of an antelope." 

The gnu has a short and broad head, and a very wide 
muzzle, fringed with coarse bristles of considerable length. 
The nostrils are large and very far apart, and the neck 
carries a stifif, erect mane, and is also covered with hair on 
the under side. The wildebeest's tail is unusually long 
and bushy, and is, both by settlers and natives, used as a 
fly switch and duster. The head looks in the distance 
just like that of a bufifalo, the horns having nearly the same 
shape as those of the latter. They first curve somewhat 
downward and outward, afterwards bending the tips in- 
ward in a graceful sweep. The inner bony core of the 
gnu's horn is not solid, like those of most antelopes, but 
porous and honeycombed, like the horns of oxen and 
sheep. Both sexes carry horns, those of the males being 
much thicker and more rugged than the horns of the fe- 

167 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

male. In very old bulls the base of the horns grow to- 
gether as on the buffalo, forming a strong armor, which 
protects that part of the skull. 

The gnu is as inquisitive as he is curious-looking. In 
places where he has not been much hunted, whole herds 
will gallop up to within two to three hundred yards to 
view the hunter and his party. There they will stand 
motionless for a few seconds, until one of the more wary 
and restless cows suddenly whirls around and gallops off 
in a semicircle, generally followed by the whole herd. 
Their bounds and leaps and " sham fights " are most amus- 
ing to observe. Sometimes the bulls will go down on their 
knees, fight and lock horns for a while, and then dash 
away again with the rest of the herd, switching their 
long tails and kicking high up in the air. All of a sudden 
the whole company swings around, like a well-drilled cav- 
alry troup, and again faces the hunter. 

By a little strategy and patience it is quite easy to come 
up close enough to a herd of wildebeest to be able to single 
out the largest bulls, although this antelope never fre- 
quents forest or bush country, where the sportsman can 
stalk behind some kind of cover. The gnu does not go 
very far away from water holes or rivers, where he often 
drinks, not only in the early morning and also at night, 
but sometimes even in the middle of the day. Whether 
this is unusual or not I am unable to say, for I have my- 
self only once witnessed wildebeests drink in the daytime. 
It was on the southern Loita plains, not very far from the 
border of German East Africa, where I was resting one 
day to take lunch in the shadow of some mimosa trees, 
which grew along a good-sized water course. This was 

i68 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

rather wide near our place, and still contained a good deal 

of water, although there had been no rains in this part of 

the country for many weeks. Suddenly my attention was 

called to a herd of about forty wildebeests, which were 

coming along almost in single file toward the widest stretch 

of the water course, and hardly more than eighty to ninety 

yards away from us. As they were crossing the water, 

a great many of them drank, while two bulls fought fiercely 

in mid-stream. As we were hoping to get some more lions 

in this vicinity, I did not molest the herd which, totally 

unaware of our presence, marched leisurely up on the other 

side of the river bed and began to feed again as they were 

moving along over the plains. 

From the many bleached skulls of wildebeest, which 
we saw strewn about on these and other plains, I believe 
that the lions are very fond of " gnu steak," and that 
perhaps next to the zebra they prefer this kind of meat. 
I often noticed that old, stray bulls used to feed among 
little groups of zebra, and they always seemed to be on 
the best terms with each other. The gnu is a very cunning 
animal. When, for instance, he is hunted near the game 
preserves, he seems to know, almost to the foot, where the 
border of the preserves begins. As soon as he notices 
the hunter he gallops off at a great speed until he is within 
the protected zone. Then he whirls around and looks at 
him in defiance, switching his sides with his beautiful tail, 
evidently knowing that he is safe there. 

The wildebeest also shows a great deal of vitality. I 
had once been trying for several hours to stalk an old bull 
gnu on the Athi Plains. When I finally succeeded in get- 
ting up to within two hundred yards of this fine-looking 

169 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

beast I shot at him with my little Mannlicher, " long dis- 
tance " rifle. When I fired, the gnu stood on the slopes of 
a little hill, and about one hundred and fifty yards from 
the top of the same. As soon as he was hit, for I plainly 
heard the bullet strike the animal, he galloped ofif over the 
crest of the hill and disappeared. We ran as quickly as 
possible up to the top of the hill, as I thought the bull 
might stop on the other side, as soon as he was unable to 
see us any more, but coming up over the ridge we found 
him standing on the plains over four hundred yards far- 
ther away, with outspread legs and lowered head, his tail 
hanging straight down. Here he stood motionless for 
several seconds. Understanding that he must have been 
very severely wounded, I took the camera and ran down 
as fast as I could to photograph the animal before it should 
fall. I was really fortunate enough to get a couple of 
good pictures of the grand old bull before he fell. When 
dissecting the animal we found that I had by mistake used 
a steel-capped bullet in the 6 millimeter Mannlicher which, 
although it had gone through the heart and one of the 
lungs, had only made such a small hole that the animal was 
able to go as far as it did before it died. 

One of the most curious experiences which I have ever 
had with any kind of an animal happened with an old gnu 
on the Sotik plains in 1909. Finding a splendid-looking 
bull standing alone, I ventured a shot with the small Mann- 
licher at the great distance of over three hundred and fifty 
yards. As soon as the gun cracked the animal went down 
in a heap and we all rushed forward to claim our trophy. 
As the horns were rather fine, I wanted to photograph the 
animal before we should begin to skin it, so I laid down 

170 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

the gun and went up with my camera to take a good pho- 
tograph of tlie apparently dead gnu's head at only three 
yards' distance. Just as I had done this and was changing 
my film, I asked the men to turn the wildebeest over on 
the other side, which they at once proceeded to do. Some 
of the men got hold of the legs, others of the head and 
horns, and thus turned the antelope over. 

Imagine our surprise when, just as he had been turned 
over, the gnu suddenly got up and ran away! The men 
and I were so amazed that we did not know what to do 
for a while, the old bull galloping off as fast as he could 
over the plains! As my gun was several yards away, 
the gnu succeeded in getting two or three hundred yards* 
start before I could shoot. The third shot broke the ani- 
mal's back and he went down never more to move again. 
When we came up to the gnu we found that the first 
bullet had barely grazed his spine and so only stunned the 
animal for a moment. Had it been a rhino or a lion it 
might easily have been able to kill me before I could have 
gotten hold of the gun. Mr. Selous told me of having 
had several similar things happen to him, some of which 
I have related in previous chapters, and he argues from his 
great experience as a big-game hunter that it is the safest 
thing to put an extra bullet into any animal's head at a 
few yards' distance, even if the beast is apparently dead. 

A great many " stories " have been told of gnus having 
attacked hunters, but I myself am unable to believe this 
antelope capable of any such ferocity. I have had oppor- 
tunity to go up to several wounded gnus which, if they had 
been bent on mischief, certainly would have had the chance 
of charging, but they never showed the slightest intention 

171 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

of so doing, contrary to the courageous sable and roan 
antelopes. 

In spite of the good game laws and other circumstances 
favorable for the survival and even the increase of the 
gnu, it seems to me that he has either diminished in some 
degree in British East Africa during the last four years, 
or else been cunning enough to take to the big-game pre- 
serves for the greater part of the year, for the number of 
wildebeest which I saw in 1906 was far greater than those 
I encountered four years later on practically the same 
ground. 



CHAPTER XI 

THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES (Continued) 

The greater kudu is one of the most coveted prizes for 
the East African big-game hunter, not only because he 
is such a magnificent looking animal, but also because he 
is very hard to bag. The wide range of this beautiful 
antelope, so common years ago all the way from Cape 
Colony up through Central and Eastern Africa as far as 
to the Abyssinian Highlands, has of late years been mate- 
rially shortened. Mr. Selous told me that the animal has 
now entirely disappeared from Cape Colony and is fast 
becoming very rare in all the countries south of the Lim- 
popo River. 

The kudu is fond of undulating and hilly country, but 
is often seen on level ground along rivers and lakes, if he 
only finds plenty of trees and dense bush to feed among. 
This stately antelope may dispense with the hills, but he 
will never be found on the plains or anywhere else where 
there is not an abundance of cover, such as wooded and 
bush country can afford. In the latter part of the dry 
season the kudu feeds chiefly on young and tender shoots 
and twigs of trees and bushes, particularly before the 
young grass has grown up after the regular grass fires 
kindled by the natives. 

The kudu is not easily obtained, for he is nowhere very 
13 173 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

numerous. He is generally found in pairs or in very small 
herds of six to ten, although I have heard that in certain 
parts of German East Africa it is not an uncommon thing 
to find as many as fifteen to twenty-five of these beautiful 
antelopes in one herd. They are also said to be fairly 
numerous in a few districts of Somaliland, where they 
are ruthlessly killed by the natives for the sake of the 
horns, which are brought over to D Jibuti or Aden, and 
sold to the tourists, as the big steamers coal in these 
ports. 

The kudu is next to the eland in size, attaining a height 
over the shoulders of from four feet four inches to four 
feet seven inches. The magnificent horns sometimes meas- 
ure more than three and a half feet in a straight line. 
They have very sharp and well-defined ridges, running 
almost up to the very tips of the spiral-shaped horns. The 
female kudus carry no horns. The color of these antelopes 
varies from grayish and reddish brown in young males 
and females to a kind of bluish gray in old males, in which 
respect they are much akin to the eland. Like the latter, 
the kudu's skin is also marked with narrow, white stripes 
running down from the back. Its beautifully marked head 
carries several white spots, and a white V-shaped chevron 
between the eyes. 

In British East Africa the kudu is rather scarce. In 
the Baringo district he was formerly very abundant, but 
was so much shot at there by British officers, garrisoned 
at Fort Baringo, and also by " safariing " sportsmen, that 
he was finally threatened with total extermination in that 
part of the country. The government has, therefore, now 
forbidden all kudu-hunting in the whole of the Baringo 

174 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

district. Another place where the kudu may be found, 
and where he is allowed to be shot at present, each sports- 
man being licensed one bull kudu, is the vicinity of the 
Kiu and Sultan Hamud stations on the Uganda Railroad. 
There he is sometimes found among the undulating, park- 
like, wooded hills and the dense jungle of mimosa and 
thorn trees. He is, however, very seldom obtained in this 
part of the country, for he is exceedingly shy and difficult 
to stalk, and seems to have learned, like the gnu, that if 
he returns into the nearby southern game preserve, he is 
safe from the hunters' persecution. 

After many hours of tracking two kudus in these re- 
gions I once finally succeeded in getting up to the animals 
late in the afternoon. The day had been very hot and the 
wind rather uncertain, but after the noon hours a steady 
southeast breeze sprang up, which made it more easy to 
gain on the animals. It had rained quite hard in the morn- 
ing, so that the clearly visible imprints of the hoofs made 
tracking comparatively easy, although for hours it seemed 
impossible to catch a glimpse of either of them. Finally, 
when we were almost completely exhausted, I, all of a 
sudden, obtained a perfect view of the pair, as I emerged 
from behind a clump of thick mimosa trees. There they 
stood, not one hundred yards away, both evidently listening 
intently, and standing on a small open space between dense 
bushes on either side. Unfortunately they were too much 
in the shade to be ** snap shot " from where I stood. To 
my utter disappointment the pair consisted of a young bull 
with only half-grown horns, and a fawn. Although I had 
never shot a kudu before, I felt that I did not want to dis- 
turb the peace of this pair. After having admired the 

175 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

beautiful antelopes for a few seconds longer, we retraced 
our steps without even having frightened the animals. 

The water buck is an entirely different species of ante- 
lope. Although not much smaller than the kudu, standing 
sometimes fully four feet at the withers, and having power- 
ful, sometimes almost lyre-shaped, horns of considerable 
size, yet the water buck cannot be compared with the kudu 
as to beauty. The skin of the water buck has an abund- 
ance of long, coarse hair, and his tail is short and bushy. 
The color of his skin varies considerably from light brown 
and almost dark red to bluish gray, with white stripes over 
the eyes. He has also patches of white on the throat and 
muzzle, while on the buttocks there is a large half-moon- 
like field of white which extends above the tail, the hair of 
which on the sides and the end is often white. 

The water buck is, as his name implies, very fond of 
water. He is a great swimmer and often stands for hours 
belly-deep in the stream eating the tender leaves and shoots 
of water plants. Strangely enough, this aquatic antelope 
sometimes roams quite far away from his favorite element, 
and seems then to prefer steep and stony hills, up and down 
which he is capable of running with great precision and 
speed. If disturbed, the water buck will instantly make 
for the nearest river or lake, and there seek his safety in 
hiding among reeds and rushes. I have several times seen 
the animal more than a mile from the nearest water hole 
or stream; in fact, once a female water buck showed us a 
much-needed water hole, so completely surrounded with 
high grass and bush that we should probably not have 
found it, had not the frightened antelope made its way 
there. 

176 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

Another time in trekking along the Guaso Nyiro we 
came upon an unusually large herd of water buck, contain- 
ing at least thirty animals, among which I easily singled 
out a very fine old bull with magnificent horns. There 
were also a great many females in the herd and several 
very small " babies." The water bucks were all feeding 
a few hundred yards away from the river on the stony 
slopes of a hill, but as soon as they observed us they made 
a bee-line for the stream. I fired at the big buck, which 
brought up the rear of the fleeing herd. As he received 
the bullet he tumbled over, making a complete somersault, 
but regaining his equilibrium in the next instant, he got 
up and reached the water before I had a chance to fire at 
him again. When we came down to the river's edge we 
could see no trace of any of the animals until one of the 
men detected the mighty horns of the wounded bull among 
the reeds only some thirty yards away from us. The cun- 
ning animal, when it saw that it could not escape with the 
rest of the herd, had submerged its whole body in the river 
until only the head stuck up out of the water! I believe 
that if he had not moved his head he would not have been 
discovered, but now he was detected and dispatched with 
another shot through the brain. The water was rather 
deep; two of the men, however, volunteered to swim out 
and bring the buck ashore, for which they received an extra 
" bakshish." 

There are several kinds of closely allied species of the 
water buck, the most common in British East Africa being 
the Cobus defassa. On one of my trips to East Africa I 
shot a water buck which seemed to be somewhat different 
from the ordinary Cobus defassa. The skin of this animal, 

177 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

which I shot on the Laikipia Plateau, I later presented to 
the Royal Swedish Academy of Science in Stockholm to 
be mounted for the Museum of Natural History. I men- 
tioned at the time to the curator that I thought it might be 
a new species. I was more than delighted, therefore, when 
a few weeks later I received a letter from Prof. Einar 
Lonnberg, inquiring about when and where this animal 
had been shot, as he had found that it evidently represented 
a new subspecies, which he described in a pamphlet issued 
by the " K. Svenska Vetenskapsakademien in Stockholm, 
Band 4, No. 3." 

As the reader may be interested in the characteristics 
of this new subspecies, I will here reprint the Professor's 
own description: 

" Cohus defassa tjaderi (nezv subsp.) 

" The typical Cobus defassa ( Ruppell ) is a well-known 
animal, distinguished from its nearest allies (those which 
are, like the defassa, provided with a white rump-patch), 
by its rather long and somewhat pointed ears, a white 
patch on the upper throat, the red color of the forehead 
and the general rufous brown coloration of the body. 

" The specimen presented by Mr. Tjader, and named 
after him, undoubtedly belongs to the defassa group, but 
it dififers so much from the typical form that I believe it 
must at least provisionally be regarded as representing a 
new geographic subspecies. This difference makes itself 
known especially in the much dark areas, which later may 
be seen on the accompanying figure of the skin. 

*' The black of the face extends above the white ring 
round the muzzle upward to above the middle of the white 
eye-stripe and on the sides to the corner of the mouth. It 
has thus a considerably greater extension than in the true 

178 




Small Water Jjuck, Killed on Laikipia. 

Found to be a new subspecies of the defassa family and subsequently called 

" Cobus defassa tjadcri." 




Semi-tame Female Water Buck near the Sotik Plains. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

defassa. The white eye-stripe is clear and well defined, 
but does not extend farther backward than over the an- 
terior third of the eye. Above the black face the forehead 
is bright rufous, somewhat mixed with black. The sides 
of the face behind the lateral extension of the black have 
the same color as the forehead, except that the region from 
below the eye to the root of the ear is paler, huffish brown, 
shading into whitish at the ear. The sides and the under 
parts of the lower jaw behind the clear white chin are 
dark brown, somewhat mixed with hoary white from the 
basal parts of the hair. The back of the ears is rufous, 
but with broad white areas on either side; the tip is black 
and the inside white. 

" The upper side of the neck is rufous with black tips 
to the hairs, but the sides and the lower parts of the neck 
behind the white throat patch is of a mixed grayish brown 
color, produced by the hairs having their distal parts black- 
ish and their basal parts light gray and partly rufous. The 
color of the body is also mixed in a peculiar manner. It 
is dark brown, in some light, almost blackish brown, but 
to a certain degree mixed with red. This is effected by 
the hairs having long black tips and rufous bases, and be- 
sides some scattered hairs are (basally or wholly) whitish. 
Toward the root of the tail and at the borders of the white 
rump-patch the rufous color is more dominating, but other- 
wise the whole animal is much darker than the rufous 
brown typical Cobus defassa. The hairs are rather short, 
only measuring about 2 cm. on the back and sides. 

" The under parts are dark brownish gray, the distal 
parts of the hairs being dark smoky brown, and the basal 
parts hoary gray. The posterior of the belly, from the 
inguinal tract to around the naval, is whitish with long 
hairs. At the prepuce a tuft of brown hairs is placed. The 
legs and feet are black with a brownish shade in front. A 

179 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

narrow white line rounds the hoofs. The tail is proxi- 
mally colored like the back ; distally it is almost black, and 
so is the tuft ; below it is white. Its length without the tuft 
is about 32 cm. The length of the ears is about 22 cm. 

" The horns appear to be rather short and stout and 
less curved when compared with a typical defassa. Their 
length along the anterior curvature is about 48 cm. and 
their basal circumference about 18.5 cm. They are pro- 
vided with 20 rings. This shortness of the horns is not 
due to youthfulness, as the animal, to judge from the well- 
worn molars, might be termed middle-aged. 

" Basal length of skull 374 mm. 

Length of nasals 165 " 

Distance from gnathion to orbit 253 " 

Length of upper molar series 99 " 

" This water buck was shot by Mr. Tjader the 5th of 
September, 1906, to the west of the junction of the rivers 
Guaso Narok and Guaso Nyiro, that is in the northwestern 
part of the Laikipia Plateau." 

I may mention in this connection that I was fortunate 
enough to bring home at least two other new species of 
East African mammals, one being a small dwarf antelope, 
or dik-dik, the other a different species of bush buck, which 
latter has gone to the American Museum of Natural His- 
tory in New York and received the name " Tragelaphus 
tjaderi." 

The impala, often also called " Pala " and " Impalla," 
is one of the most graceful of antelopes. A full-grown 
impala stands only from three feet to three feet three 
inches high, but appears to be much larger, as the animal 
carries its head a good deal higher than most antelopes do. 
The horns of young males form a perfect lyre, but as the 

180 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

animal grows older they spread out more, turning first 
forward, then in a bold sweep backward, and then forward 
again, so that the horns, seen from the side, almost form 
an " S." The year rings are few and very widely spread, 
and do not reach more than about one half the length of 
the horn, which ends in a slender and very sharp point. 
The horns of the impala vary from some twenty to twenty- 
four inches, measured in a straight line ; the female of this 
species has no horns. The color of the impala is reddish, 
which in young animals sometimes turns to almost bright 
red, which merges at the flanks into a snow-white belly. 

The impala is very common in Southern, Central, and 
East Africa. It often goes in large herds of from twenty 
to one hundred, and sometimes even more. The animal 
loves sandy plains dotted with low scrub and thorn bush, 
but is fond of water, and never goes far away from 
some supply of this kind. In fact, some hunters say that 
the very presence of an impala guarantees that there is 
water in the neighborhood. I have several times noticed 
large herds of impala without a single grown-up male 
among them, and I have also on several occasions found 
small bands of bucks by themselves, generally following 
some old, magnificent animal which, in spite of its beautiful 
horns, has escaped the sportsmen. 

Every observer of big game in Africa will bear me 
out when I say that the impala is certainly one of the 
swiftest animals in existence. It is a wonderful sight, in- 
deed, to see a herd of impala fall into the most graceful 
gallop, when frightened, making leaps over high bushes 
and broad streams, throwing, like the race horse, the front 
legs almost flat under the belly as they bound. I have my- 

i8i 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

self actually measured some of the longest jumps I saw 
an impala take and found that one young buck, which I 
had slightly wounded, had leaped clear over a bush, the 
highest point of which was five feet from the ground, ap- 
parently without touching the leaves. I found that this 
one leap measured exactly twenty-four feet and three 
inches. The next bound of the same animal measured 
nineteen feet four inches. I have heard of instances where 
impalas have leaped as far as twenty-five and twenty-six 
feet, which seems almost incredible for an animal of its 
size. 

When a herd is suddenly startled, they go ofif in most 
beautiful, gliding motions, and they can keep these up for 
a great distance, racing over the ground at high speed. 
When suddenly disturbed they often eject a certain sharp, 
barklike sound, not unlike the cry of a wooing bush buck. 
Impalas are hardly ever seen on the plains, and they also 
avoid thick forests, being fond of a parklike country with 
low scrub, as before mentioned. Once on the Laikipia 
Plateau I succeeded in chasing an impala out of cover into 
a large open space, when my " lion rider," Asgar, pursued 
it on a swift hunting pony in the wildest gallop. Yet it 
was utterly impossible for him to gain on the antelope 
which, after a few minutes' flight, disappeared among a 
little clump of bush. 

Like most of the African antelopes the vitality of the 
impala is remarkable. On one of my marches to the gov- 
ernment station at Rumuruti, where I wanted to visit a 
British official, I wounded a young impala, which bounded 
oflf like the wind in front of us. It was, indeed, as if 
he had been shot out of a gun, and we all thought that I 

l82 




Splendid Impala from Laikipia. 




Head of Large Bull Oryx. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

must have missed him, from the speed he maintained before 
he disappeared from our sight. A few minutes after this, 
our whole caravan sat down for its lunch and " pumzika," 
or rest, which the porters always enjoy whenever they have 
a chance. After more than an hour's rest we took up our 
trail again, and when we had marched at least three miles 
farther we saw a great many vultures circling close over 
the ground some fifty yards away from the little path 
which we were following. Being curious to see what kind 
of animal the vultures were about to devour, I ordered a 
halt and started off to investigate. Imagine my surprise 
when I here found the beautiful impala, which we did not 
even think I had wounded, and which had run all this dis- 
tance before it expired! When cutting the animal open 
we found that the bullet had gone right through the cavity 
of the chest, severing one of the large arteries, which re- 
sulted in the filling up of the whole cavity and intestines 
with blood before the animal succumbed. 

The meat of the impala, as well as that of the water 
buck, is not very appetizing, and is, particularly if the ani- 
mal is old, or has been killed at the end of the dry season, 
quite bitter. The impala seems to belong to the " exclusive 
set," for I have never found impalas feeding together with 
animals of any other kind as so many other antelopes do. 
Of course it is impossible for me to state positively that the 
impala never does mingle with other animals, but it has 
never come under my own notice, and none of the sports- 
men and natives, whom I questioned on this topic, had ob- 
served the same. 

The oryx is another beautiful antelope. It is some- 
what larger than the impala, standing as high as four feet 

183 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

one to two inches at the withers. There are five somewhat 
different species of the oryx family, all of which have 
nearly straight, long horns, slightly curving backward and 
growing out almost in line with their straight foreheads. 
The neck of some of the species has a small mane and 
also tufts of hair on the throat, while the tail is long and 
bushy. The oryx family is at present spread over the 
greater part of South and East Africa, Somaliland, Ara- 
bia, and even as far north as Syria. 

The most common of the oryx family in East Africa 
is the lovely oryx beisa. This species is distinguished by 
not having any tufts of hair on the throat and by its white 
face being marked with a large patch of black which covers 
the greater part of the forehead under the horns with the 
exception of the nose. Then it has two smaller black 
patches which surround the eyes, and thence run down like 
a wide ribbon to where the slit of the lips begins. The 
color of the oryx beisa is a kind of dark bluish gray, sep- 
arated from the almost snow-white belly by a wide, raven 
black stripe on either side. 

The horns of this species are very nearly straight, 
only slightly curving backward, and they have well-defined 
year rings, reaching up about two thirds of the horn, which 
tapers up to a very slender and exceedingly sharp point. 
The average length of good oryx horns is from twenty- 
eight to thirty-two inches, but horns of a male have been 
recorded as large as thirty-six and a half inches, and 
thirty-eight inches of a female. The horns of the female 
are, as in most cases where female antelopes carry horns, 
much thinner. This beautiful oryx loves arid country of 
a parklike nature. Like the impala, it never frequents the 

184 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

plains, neither is it found in deep forests. The animal is 
said to be able to get along with very little water, which 
explains the fact that it frequents such dry countries as 
parts of East Africa, Somaliland, and Arabia. 

The oryx beisa are very often seen in considerable num- 
bers, herds of forty or more being not uncommonly en- 
countered. Like the impala, they sometimes go in great 
herds of only females, while small batches of rams roam 
around by themselves. It is not an uncommon thing to 
find a lone old male feeding away off from the rest of his 
family. The oryx is one of the very few antelopes which, 
like the roan and sable, shows a great deal of courage and 
pluck if wounded and cornered. 

My first experience with an oryx beisa was a very 
memorable one. It might, therefore, interest the reader 
if I quote the same from my diary: " One beautiful morn- 
ing in July, 1906, we had left our camp near the southern 
end of Lake Hannington, where we had pitched our tents 
on the eastern banks of a small, hot stream of crystal- 
clear, good-tasting water, which came bubbling up from 
under some rocks a few hundred yards away from the 
place selected for our camp. After having walked a few 
hours without seeing anything worth shooting at, my gun 
bearer and two Wandorobo guides simultaneously noticed 
fresh oryx tracks. Instantly we took them up, walking 
along with a great deal of care and expectation. 

" I had never as yet seen a ' choroa,' the native word 
for the oryx beisa, and was, therefore, most anxious to 
secure a good head or two. After having followed the 
track for a few minutes it merged into a whole network 
of evidently fresh oryx track, which led down to a large 

185 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

water hole a little farther to our left. As we approached 
it, we saw from the number of tracks that we could easily 
make out in and around the shallow water, that there must 
have been hundreds of oryx around the place during the 
last few days. As it was utterly impossible for us to find 
the freshest tracks which led away from the pool, we 
started off in a northwesterly direction, following a small 
valley, jammed in between two rather high and steep 
ridges of wooded hills. After having gone along for 
another twenty minutes, looking all the time for fresh 
tracks, we heard a noise as that of galloping zebras, and 
looking up we saw at a distance of some one hundred and 
fifty yards a herd of from fifty to sixty oryx, which swiftly 
galloped away at a right angle to our line of march. They 
were racing down from the escarpment to our right and 
evidently intending to run up on the opposite one. 

" Being always ready for any emergency like this, I 
aimed quickly, although the gun bearer said it was useless 
to try to hit the animals at such a distance. I fired three 
shots at two large bulls before they disappeared behind 
some bush. We took up the chase ' on the run,' and soon 
found that both animals had been slightly wounded. As 
fast as we could we ran after the antelopes up to the top 
of the escarpment. As we carefully peered above the 
highest stones, we saw the herd slowly walking off at a 
distance, switching their long tails, while the wounded 
animals lingered behind. They were not more than about 
one hundred yards away from us, as we emerged from over 
the crest. Quicker than I can describe it I fired again with 
the .405 Winchester with the result that both animals went 
down. One of them was some thirty yards nearer to us 

186 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

than the other and was killed on the spot by the second 
bullet, which had broken his back. 

" As soon as I had measured this beautiful specimen 
and given it over to the second gun bearer and a couple 
of other men to do the skinning, I went with the first gun 
bearer and a few other men to the other antelope, which 
had fallen a little farther away. This fellow, Mabruki, 
was always very anxious to cut the throat of any ani- 
mal before it was ' stone dead,' as he otherwise, being 
a strict Mohammedan, would not eat the meat. Seeing 
that this oryx was not as large as the first one, I told 
Mabruki that he could put his knife in the throat of the 
antelope, near the chest, while I took up the tape measure 
and got the camera ready to take a ' picture study ' at 
close quarters. Just as I was examining the camera to 
see if everything was ready for a time exposure I heard 
Mabruki scream. As I looked up I saw the wounded oryx 
trying to spear him with his long and sharp horns. Drop- 
ping the camera, I quickly gave the furious animal another 
shot, which ended his life. As the oryx was trying to get 
at the gun bearer, he ejected some ugly-sounding, barking 
grunts, and I am sure that if I had not been so quick with 
the gun this time, Mabruki would have been gored by the 
courageous beast." 

My largest oryx I obtained on the Laikipia Plateau a 
couple of months later. The horns of this big bull meas- 
ured, the one twenty-eight and one half inches, and the 
other one quarter of an inch less, the very tip having been 
broken off some time previously. Once I noticed that an 
oryx which we secured near Mt. Kenia must in younger 
years have had a bad fall from some precipice, for the tips 

187 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

of both horns had been knocked over so that they formed 
ahiiost perfect hooks. Big scratches on the skin of this 
oryx and an old wound on his right thigh showed that he 
had probably just escaped from a lion or a leopard, when 
he tumbled down the precipice in his mad attempt to escape 
from the bloodthirsty feline. 

In the southeastern part of the protectorate the Oryx 
callotis, or " fringed-eared " oryx, is found. The face of 
this species is more of a fawn-color than that of the beisa, 
and has very sharply pointed ears with black tufts of long 
hair. The Oryx callotis is somewhat smaller than the beisa 
and is quite common in the Kilimanjaro district, and on 
either side of the Uganda Railroad between the stations, 
Voi and Simba, where he inhabits the sandy scrub and 
thorn country both in the game preserve and in the dis- 
trict to the northeast of the railroad. 

The Grant's gazelle is without a question the finest- 
looking specimen of the smaller antelopes which are gen- 
erally classed as gazelles. They are all of medium or small 
size and comprise a number of species found both in Asia 
and in most parts of Africa. These gazelles are animals 
of which both sexes carry horns, except in a few species, 
which are all confined to Asia. The gazelles frequent, as 
a rule, dry and sandy country. They prefer open plains, 
although some of them will occasionally be found in thin 
scrub or bush country. They will, however, never enter 
dense jungle or large forests. 

The handsome Grant's gazelle was discovered some 
fifty years ago by the well-known explorers Speke and 
Grant, after which latter the species received its name. 
This gazelle is found in great numbers in East Africa any- 

i88 




Fine Head of the Graceful Grant's Gazelle. 




Wounded Grant's Gazelle, lioiiiiMi AIabruki, the Gun Bearer. 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

where south of Lake Rudolph, wherever the country suits 
his requirements. Like all true gazelles, he is mostly found 
on the vast plains, but is sometimes seen in very open 
bush country. They go in large herds, numbering any- 
where from a dozen to one hundred and fifty or more, and 
are not " exclusive " like the impala, but are often met 
browsing together with other animals, such as the zebra, 
hartebeest, oryx, and the little Thomson's gazelle, with 
which they seem to live on terms of great intimacy. This 
latter, a little fellow, generally called " Tommy," is so much 
like the Grant's in coloring and general build that he is 
often mistaken for the same at long distance. A careful 
observer, however, need not make this mistake, for the 
horns of the Grant's gazelle are much more developed than 
those of the " Tommy," and the latter is always switching 
his tail to and fro while he is feeding, which the former 
very seldom does. 

The Grant's gazelle stands a little less than three feet 
above the shoulders. The color of his skin is dull fawn, 
separated from the snow-white belly by dark brown bands 
on the flanks. The beautiful head is marked with an 
almost black rufous band, which runs back from the 
upper part of the nose to the base of the horns. White 
stripes and other narrow black ribbons separate this band 
from the fawn-colored under part of the head and face. 
The very regularly ringed horns are most gracefully 
curved, bending first a little forward, then backward, and 
then again forward, while they also spread out consider- 
ably sideways. The local variety, obtained in the central 
and southern parts of British East Africa, has the horns 
much more spread out than the species the sportsman will 
14 189 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

find on the Laikipia Plateau and other places in the north- 
ern parts of the protectorate. There they are more often 
seen in open bush country than anywhere else in East 
Africa. 

This beautiful antelope is an exceedingly keen-sighted 
little chap, and so wary that he is very hard to stalk, par- 
ticularly in localities where he has been much disturbed. 
In most parts of East Africa he will now, as a rule, run 
away long before the hunter comes within two hundred 
to two hundred and fifty yards of the herd, but even this 
distance is not nowadays to be considered a very great one, 
when the sportsman uses such wonderful weapons as the 
6.5 millimeter Mannlicher, with which he can shoot with 
accuracy from fifty to three hundred yards without having 
to change the sights. 

The meat of the Grant's gazelle is most excellent and 
far superior to that of most other antelopes, with the pos- 
sible exception of the eland, oryx, and little " Tommy." If 
caught when young, the graceful Grant's gazelle soon be- 
comes very tame, and follows his captor around like a dog. 
The vitality of these comparatively small animals is 
nothing short of marvelous. They require, indeed, as some 
sportsman has said, " much lead " before they can be 
stopped. I have several times seen Grant's gazelles 
wounded in a way that would instantly knock down almost 
any kind of deer in Europe or America, and yet keep run- 
ning for hundreds of yards before they fall from exhaus- 
tion. 

When I first came out to Africa, I thought that a soft- 
nosed bullet would be unnecessarily powerful for these little 
antelopes, and that their skin would be too much cut up by 

190 



THE LARGER EAST AFRICAN ANTELOPES 

the same, so that I used steel-capped bullets instead. These 
seemed, however, to have so little effect upon the animal 
that I soon came to the conclusion that it was too cruel and 
unprofitable to use anything but the regular, deadly " dum- 
dum " bullet. If wounded and cornered the Grant's gazelle 
sometimes gives vent to harsh barks, somewhat similar to 
those of an angry goat. Each sportsman is now allowed 
to kill but three of these lovely little antelopes, but as a 
good many settlers shoot numbers of them every year for 
food, and some of the best grazing lands are being rapidly 
taken up for cultivation or fenced in for cattle, the time 
may come when the Grant's gazelle will become very rare 
and perhaps exterminated, except in the game preserves. 



CHAPTER XII 

THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

The hartebeests are certainly the ugliest looking of all 
antelopes. They are easily recognizable from all other 
game, even at long distance, by their peculiarly shaped 
heads, long, straight and narrow faces, and pointed noses. 
Another characteristic of the most common, or Cook's 
hartebeest, is the singular twist of the horns. When the 
animal looks straight at a person, it appears as if it 
had a double set of ears, the horns growing out from 
the forehead at almost right angles over the ears, leav- 
ing a space between of some three to four inches. An- 
other thing which makes the hartebeest so different 
looking from all other antelopes is his contrast in build, 
standing a great deal higher at the withers than over 
the pelvis. 

There are several species of hartebeest in British East 
Africa, of which the Jackson's and Cook's are the most 
common. These two differ from each other chiefly in their 
color and shape of horns. The Jackson's hartebeest has 
a more light reddish brown hue than the Cook's, and his 
horns differ very much from the latter's; they first turn 
upward a few inches, then curve slightly outward and 
again upward, after which they bend in almost a right 
angle backwards. I also believe, from specimens that I 

192 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

have shot, that if there is any difference in size, the Jack- 
son's hartebeest is the larger of the two. He is also rarer 
than the other, and is only found in the northern and 
western parts of the protectorate, where his favorite 
haunts seem to be the upper Rift Valley, on the north- 
western end of the Naivasha Plateau, and in the Nyando 
Valley, to the east of Victoria Nyanza. 

The first specimen of Jackson's hartebeest that I was 
fortunate in securing, was shot near Lake Hannington, 
and had horns that were- over twenty-four inches long. 
This bull was by far the largest hartebeest that I killed 
during my three expeditions to Africa. The animal 
showed a most remarkable vitality. I discovered it one 
day when we were returning to camp, after having had a 
successful oryx hunt. The big bull stood alone on a little 
opening on the sparsely wooded sides of a little hill. As 
we were all tired from a long day's tramp, having been 
continuously " on the go " from before five o'clock in the 
morning, I did not care to go far out of my way, but fired 
at the hartebeest at a distance of some two hundred and 
fifty yards. As the gun cracked, he bounded off in big 
leaps and soon disappeared among the trees. Sending 
one of our trackers to the spot, where we had seen the 
hartebeest, to examine whether there were any blood 
marks on the ground, we sat down to rest for a few min- 
utes. Suddenly we heard the tracker shouting : " Damu 
mingi, Bwana!" (''Much blood, sir!") 

Instantly we made for the place as quickly as we could, 
thence following the blood tracks for over two hundred 
yards. There, under a good-sized mimosa tree, lay the 
big bull, dead. When we skinned him, we found that the 

193 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

soft-nosed bullet had not expanded, the distance being too 
great, but had gone clear through the upper part of 
the heart; yet the hartebeest had been able to gallop off 
as if nothing had happened. It was in very fine condition, 
was carefully measured and skinned, and afterwards given 
to the American Museum of Natural History in New York 
City. 

The most common of hartebeests in British East Africa 
is the Cook's, or, as he is very often called, both by sports- 
men and natives, the '* Kongoni," which is certainly one 
of the most ungainly looking animals. The color of the 
kongoni is of a dark reddish brown, merging in the flanks 
and belly into an almost ash gray. He stands in propor- 
tion higher over the withers than the Jackson's hartebeest, 
and has a pronounced '' hump " on the shoulders. This 
animal may still be seen in large herds in most parts of 
central and southern East Africa, and I have counted as 
many as three to four hundred feeding closely together. 
The kongoni loves the company of other game, and is 
often seen browsing among large herds of zebra and 
wildebeest. 

Few animals are as inquisitive as the hartebeest. In 
localities where he has not been much hunted, he will run 
up to within one hundred and fifty yards or less of the 
hunter, then whirl around and face the two-legged in- 
truder for a while, tossing his head quickly up and down. 
If the sportsman stands still, the kongoni might remain 
in the same position for several seconds, until he again 
swings around, makes a half circle, and returns to view 
the visitor in the same way. In localities where he has 
been much disturbed he will not show as much curiosity 

194 




Beautiful Head of the Grant's Gazelle. 




An Excf.ptionally Fine Head of Jackson's Hartebeest, Shot near 
Lake Hannington. 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

as cunning in getting away, often running up on ant-hills, 
or other elevations, to have a better view of the surround- 
ing country. 

Few animals are, I believe, as much hated by the hunt- 
ers in general as the kongoni, for he is one of the most 
wary and keen-sighted beasts in existence. Innumerable 
times it has spoiled the day for the sportsman, because it 
startled the game, which, until then, he had been suc- 
cessfully stalking. I have myself repeatedly been thus 
disturbed by this animal, which will always try to play 
tricks on the hunter, warning and frightening the other 
game. Even if the hartebeest should be several hundred 
yards off, and the hunter stalk his game in a different 
direction, this bothersome animal will gallop off in a half 
circle to intercept the intended line of the attack, and thus 
scare off all the game in the vicinity. 

This hartebeest also shows great vitality and is capable 
of a marvelous speed. Few antelopes are as hard to over- 
take, even when wounded. If not wounded, and not taken 
by surprise before he can get a start, there is hardly a 
hunting horse in existence that can outdistance a full- 
grown hartebeest ; for they are not only exceedingly swift, 
but seem to be able to gallop with undiminished speed for 
almost any length of time. In British East Africa the 
hartebeest is also hated by the settlers for different rea- 
sons. In the first place, he is said to spread the dreaded 
cattle diseases; and then herds of hartebeest have often 
broken down and demolished miles of fencing, made to 
keep the cattle together. Previous to this year each sports- 
man was allowed ten hartebeests on his license, but on 
account of their destructiveness to the settlers, each hunter 

195 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

can now, if he chooses, kill twenty during the twelve 
months that his license is in force. 

It is remarkable that the hartebeests are able to secure 
their feed on the sun-scorched plains, where to the human 
observer there is scarcely any grass to be had, and yet they 
always seem to be in good condition. And as for water, 
I believe the hartebeest can go for days without that 
precious liquid, getting perhaps enough moisture from 
the dew on the grass in the morning. The kongoni is one 
of the antelopes which constitute the principal menu of the 
lion and leopard. Several of the hartebeests that I killed 
showed unmistakable marks of having had narrow escapes 
from the big felines. If these should fail to get hold of 
the kongoni in their first leap, they would never be able 
to overtake him again. The hartebeest is a pronounced 
dweller of the plains. Neither the Jackson's nor the 
Cook's hartebeest are fond of real jungle, although both 
of them may sometimes feed in very open bush or parklike 
country. The meat of these antelopes is, as a rule, very 
good, although they have hardly any fat, in which respect 
they are like most all other African antelopes, with the 
exception of the eland and oryx. 

The kongoni is hard to stalk in places where he has 
been much hunted. The best method seems to be to con- 
tinue to walk straight for him, as quietly as possible. He 
will then run away at three or four hundred yards, but 
only gallop a short distance, and then turn around again 
to look at his pursuer. I have found that if I ran after the 
beast, as it turned and galloped off, but instantly stopped 
and began to walk slowly at the very moment the antelope 
turned around to face me, I could often, with a little 

196 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

patience and endurance, come up to within two hundred 
yards of it, which distance is not very great to a man 
armed with modern, long-distance guns. The young bull 
hartebeests often fight with each other in the most deter- 
mined way, although perhaps not as frequently as the 
wildebeests do, I once shot a hartebeest which had evi- 
dently been in some kind of a desperate fight, for his left 
horn had been broken, but had not fallen off at the time; 
afterwards it had knit again in such a way that it pointed 
straight downward back of the ear, instead of upward and 
then backward. 

As the traveler goes up country from Mombasa he 
may, if he has luck, see a good many animals from the 
track, such as giraffes, rhinos, wildebeests, zebras and 
even lions, but it is absolutely certain that he will see herds 
of hartebeests on both sides of the railroad before he 
reaches Nairobi. From my own observation, I believe it 
is correct to say that in the last three or four years the 
vast numbers of this antelope have greatly diminished. 
Whether this is a sign that the Cook's hartebeest is 
being threatened with extermination, or if it only shows 
his cunning in wandering over to the game preserve, as 
the wildebeests are so fond of doing, I cannot say; but 
the enormous herds, years ago always found on the 
Athi Plains, for instance, have certainly perceptibly de- 
creased. 

During one of the trips on the northeastern parts of 
these plains we very nearly lost our whole caravan. It 
happened in the following way: 

We had marched that day somewhat over twenty 
miles, mostly over open plains, and exposed to the hot 

197 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

rays of the sun during the whole time. I had, as 
usual, gone ahead of the rest with our naturalist, Mr. 
Lang, two gun bearers, and two or three porters who 
carried our cameras. We knew that there was no water 
to be had except at a certain stream, which we hoped to 
reach before sunset. Suspecting that we might be able 
to find lions on these plains, we increased our lead more 
and more, so that the noise made by the bulk of the men 
should not frighten any beasts away from our line of 
march. 

About two o'clock in the afternoon we went over a 
little hill, from where we had a good view over the coun- 
try. We now saw the caravan a couple of miles behind 
us, but did not worry, being reasonably sure that the men 
would be able to trace our steps through the grass and 
reach us before the evening. A little after four o'clock 
we arrived at a small stream, where we decided to camp 
for the night, and made ourselves comfortable, while we 
were waiting for the men. We sat down, and I took my 
field glasses to see if any game animal was near. To my 
surprise I detected only a few hundred yards away from 
us five or six giraffes, which were slowly walking off to- 
ward the bush north of us. 

Although very much tired out, I grasped my gun, asked 
Mabruki to come along, and started in pursuit of the 
giraffes. A few seconds later Mr. Lang and two of the 
other men followed us. After only a few minutes' walk, 
during which we had not been noticed by the giraffes, 
we had come close enough to shoot. I singled out the 
one that we thought was the largest bull, and fired. 
The animal fell to its knees, but rose again in a few 

198 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

seconds, when it received another bullet, which ended 
its life. 

When Mr. Lang and the other two men arrived, we 
were very much puzzled what to do, as night was coming 
on, and the place we had selected for the camp being more 
than two miles distant. Having taken the correct meas- 
urements of the beautiful giraffe, I proposed that Mr. 
Lang, with the assistance of the gun bearer and the two 
porters, should skin the animal, while I was to return to 
the camping place, whence I should send back men with 
lanterns to bring the skin to camp. 

When I came near to the place, where we had left the 
last of our men, I found, to my great surprise, that he was 
still alone, and that not another man of the caravan was 
in sight. This porter told me with the greatest excite- 
ment that he had seen some of the men of the caravan in 
the far distance, marching ofif in a different direction. 
He thought that the whole safari was lost, and that we 
would now have to sleep without tents, food, or anything. 
This was, indeed, not a very bright outlook, as that par- 
ticular place was noted for its abundance of lions, leopards, 
and other dangerous game. 

I took the expedition flag and, ordering the porter to 
follow me, ran up on a high ant-hill nearby. From this 
place I finally saw with the glasses some four or five men, 
with loads on their heads, march off in another direction 
about two miles away, soon disappearing among the 
bushes. I shouted at the top of my lungs and fired several 
shots with the big elephant gun, while I had the men wave 
the " Stars and Stripes." After a few anxious moments 
I noticed some men standing together in a little opening, 

199 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

as if consulting with each other. Again I fired the big 
gun several times. To my delight I now saw the men 
turn in our direction and move forward. As the sun by 
this time had already set and it began to darken, we quick- 
ly made a fire with grass and dry branches to further 
attract the attention of the lost safari. 

About half an hour later our whole caravan was gath- 
ered together at the camping ground. Some men were 
then dispatched with lanterns to the place where the giraffe 
had fallen, whence they returned a couple of hours later 
with the beautiful trophy. I found that the reason why 
the men had gone astray was that they had seen a small 
native path going off in a different direction from where 
we were marching, and, not being able to see us, they be- 
lieved that we had taken that way. I now learned that if C 
we had thought of it at the time, and put a bunch of grasS'^ 
or some sticks across the path, the natives would not have) 
followed it, but kept on straight ahead, looking for our) 
tracks in the grass. 

The zebra is one of the finest-looking wild animals in 
Africa. It is, indeed, very interesting to watch a large 
herd of them as they feed, play, or gallop off on the vast 
plains. Their black and white stripes make them appear, 
in the distance, as if the whole animal were either black 
or white, according as they appear in the sunlight or 
shadow. It is rather remarkable how the zebra is able to 
blend with its surroundings in grass country and among 
thin bush, so that, to the unaccustomed eye, it is hard to 
make it out at a distance, if it is standing still. The zebra 
is exclusively a native of Africa, where there are at present 

200 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

three distinct species — the Mountain, the Grevey's, and the 
Burchell's zebra. 

Of these, the beautiful mountain zebra was formerly 
very common in the whole of South Africa, frequenting 
the rugged hills and big mountain forests all over Cape 
Colony. It has been so decimated during the last decades 
of the old century by the settlers of that country, that it is 
now almost extinct in the whole of South Africa, except 
in a few districts, where it is entirely protected by law. 
This species is the smallest of the three, standing hardly 
four feet at the withers. It has a comparatively short, 
erect, thick mane, long ears, and legs, which are striped all 
the way down to the hoofs. 

In East Africa only the two last-named varieties are 
found. The Grevey's zebra the hunter meets mostly in the 
country to the south and east of Lake Rudolph, in a line 
toward Mt. Kenia. From here it ranges up to the central 
part of Somaliland. It is hardly ever seen to the west of 
Lake Rudolph, nor to the south of Mt. Kenia. The 
Grevey's zebra is the largest of the family, reaching a 
height of almost five feet over the shoulder. It differs 
from the more common Burchell's zebra, not only in size, 
but also in the color and number of its stripes. Those of 
the Grevey's are very much narrower, and, therefore, more 
numerous than the stripes of the Burchell's zebra, while 
the color of the former is of a much deeper black and 
snow-white color than that of the latter. Another differ- 
ence between the two species is the stripes on the legs, 
which in the case of the Burchell's hardly run below the 
knees, whereas in the Grevey's zebra they extend right 
down to the hoofs, as in the true mountain zebra. Then, 

201 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

the belly and the insides of the upper part of the legs of 
the Grevey's zebra are almost pure white, and the ears 
are in proportion larger than those of the Burchell's zebra. 
The stripes of this latter animal are considerably wider, 
and the color of them is often dark brown instead of black, 
and yellowish cream instead of pure white. Very often 
a darker " shade line " runs down the center of the light 
stripes. The ears are, in comparison, smaller and more 
rounded, and the lower parts of the legs, above the hoofs, 
pure white. 

In the northwestern part of Laikipia, not very far to 
the east of Lake Baringo, I once shot a zebra which 
seemed to be a kind of link between the aforenamed species. 
It had larger and more narrowly striped ears than those 
of the Burchell's zebra, while it was also larger in the 
body, and had the stripes on the legs running almost down 
to the hoofs. It may just have been a " freak," or possibly 
a cross-breed between the Grevey's and the Burchell's 
zebra, for it certainly had characteristics common to both 
of these animals. 

The zebra is, perhaps, the most common of all African 
big game. It is simply met with everywhere, from the 
hot, sun-scorched plains in the southern and southwestern 
parts of the protectorate to the more temperate Laikipia 
Plateau, and even upon the chilly foothills of Mt. Kenia, 
where I have found this beautiful animal as high as be- 
tween seven and eight thousand feet. From what I have 
heard from other big-game hunters, this is probably not 
very usual, but I have more than once met zebras at alti- 
tudes of over seven thousand feet, and once shot a Bur- 
chell's zebra on the southwestern slopes of Kenia, where 

202 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

we found a little herd of ten to twelve animals at an alti- 
tude of actually somewhat over eight thousand feet! 

CThe only places which these two species of zebra seem 
to shun altogether are the damp forest regions around the 
Indian Ocean and the large forests and dense jungles of 
other parts of the Protectorate. The favorite feeding 
grounds of these zebras are, without a question, the plains, 
and possibly very sparsely wooded country, although on 
the Laikipia Plateau I have often discovered them in the 
outskirts of the big forests, where they seem to be attracted 
to the open grass patches among the cedars, which here 
grow, together with a great many deciduous trees. These 
often form islandlike patches or clumps of trees, between 
which are lovely glades with thick grass, which the animals 
seem to enjoy. 

[ The zebra is certainly very fond of water, and is rarely, 
if ever, found farther than two to three miles from its 
nearest source. Sometimes when disturbed, or when wish- 
ing to communicate with other members of the herd, the 
zebra ejects a kind of sound, which is more like the barking 
of dogs than anything else. I often noticed that when 
a herd of zebras was scattered in different directions 
either by man or some carnivorous beast, they afterwards 
" called " to each other by means of their queer-sounding 
bark, and that sometimes even wounded zebras will make 
the same noise. A few years ago the Burchell's zebra was 
so exceedingly plentiful all over the central, southern, and 
southwestern parts of the Protectorate that it was not an 
uncommon thing to see several thousand of these beauti- 
fully marked animals feeding together in companies on 
the large plains. 

203 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

In 1906 I saw an enormous herd of these animals in 
the upper part of the Rift Valley. We were encamped at 
a little stream coming down from the Aberdare Moun- 
tains, when my attention was called to the animals walking 
along in a northerly direction, and only a few hundred 
yards from our camp. Not wanting to shoot any of the 
animals, I watched them for fully half an hour with my 
field glasses, while they were feeding and playing, as they 
slowly moved along, until something must have startled 
the herd in the rear. As near as I could make it out, there 
must have been upward of four thousand together, and 
when they were disturbed they galloped ofif briskly, soon 
enveloping themselves in a thick cloud of dust, as they 
swept through the half-dry grass. 

In localities where the zebras are not much molested 
they are not very shy, and are easily approached to within 
a hundred yards, and sometimes even less ; but where they 
have been much hunted, they soon learn to look out for the 
sportsmen and are then, at least in the open, quite hard 
to stalk. A herd of zebras will act almost in the same way 
as the kongoni. They are very inquisitive, and will some- 
times come up fairly close to a caravan, to " investigate," 
as it were, and then gallop off, only to make a half circle 
and come back again to look at the intruders. For this 
reason they are often very much of a nuisance to the 
hunter, just in the same way as the hateful kongoni; and 
they have often spoiled the day for me by disturbing the 
game with their cavorting and queer antics. 

The zebras seem to be very fond of the company of 
other animals, such as the hartebeest, gnu, and the larger 
gazelles. Once I saw them freely and peacefully mingling 

204 




Herd of Zebra, just Entering a Forest on Kenia. 



ib 


m 






Ib 







Wounded Zebra. 
Lake Ol-Bolossat and the Aberdare Mountains in the background. 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

with a herd of giraffes on the Loita Plains, not far from 
the border of German East Africa. The zebra is one of 
the few animals of East Africa that possesses a consider- 
able quantity of fat, which often lies in thick, yellowish 
layers under the skin. As the natives are extremely fond 
of this " mafuta," or fat, they enjoy zebra meat very much ; 
and if the animal is young and in good condition it is not 
at all an unpalatable dish even for the sportsman. The 
lion also seems to be extremely fond of eating zebra, and 
it is his chief menu in the greater part of East Africa, 
to which the vast number of bleached zebra skulls and 
skeletons on the plains bear witness. My first lion, as 
previously mentioned, was shot as it was devouring a 
zebra, which it had slain on the Athi Plains in broad 
daylight. 

It seems almost incredible that the zebras should be 
as stupid as they are in regard to their protective instincts. 
In the dry season, when there are few drinking places, and 
the lions of the vicinity night after night have chased and 
killed zebras at the same place, they will return to the 
identical water pool as if nothing had ever disturbed them 
there. I once witnessed how, together with a few other 
animals, a small herd of zebras was leisurely walking along 
and feeding on the dew-drenched gmss early one morning, 
when I detected, and subsequently succeeded in shooting, 
a big lion, which was lying down not more than perhaps 
fifty to sixty yards away from where the zebras fed. It 
could not be possible that the animals were unaware of 
the presence of the " King of Beasts," but rather must 
have known that it had had its " fill " so shortly be- 
fore, that they were not in danger of being disturbed 
15 205 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

by " His Majesty." The stomach of this lion gave evi- 
dence of the fact that for its last meal it had had zebra 
meat, for we found in it a good many pieces of striped 
skin. 

I have often seen zebras drink in broad daylight, com- 
ing down to the river, as if they felt sure that there was no 
lion around. Once I was having my lunch under some 
mimosa trees near a little water course on the plains, when 
I saw a whole herd of zebras of some seventy to eighty 
animals slowly coming down to drink, headed for the very 
same place where I was sitting. Making the camera ready 
for a snapshot, although the light was rather unfavorable, 
I waited for the animals to come nearer. Suddenly one 
of my stupid and careless porters stood up above the grass, 
where they all had been told to lie still, and thus scared 
the herd away before I was able to kodak it. If fright- 
ened, the zebra is able to bound off at great speed, and it 
takes a very good horse to catch up with, or overtake, a 
zebra, if on level ground; but if in stony and hilly country, 
the best horse in the world would have no chance at all 
to outdistance these sure-footed and swift animals, the 
deep-hollowed hoofs of which seem to be exceedingly hard 
and tough. 

If suddenly frightened, a herd of zebras will dash away 
in the maddest flight, apparently without looking ahead 
in the least. Twice during one week, when encamped 
near the beautiful Lake Elmenteita, I had opportunities 
to observe this. 

One afternoon, in fact just after we had arrived and 
begun to erect our camp on the eastern shores of this lake, 
I was told by some of the men that a small herd of zebras 

206 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

was feeding a few hundred yards away from our selected 
camping ground. As we had no meat in camp, and the 
porters were clamoring for " nyama," and zebra meat 
being a favorite dish with them, I promised to shoot one 
of the animals. With only the two gun bearers, I started 
carefully to approach the little herd, which was feeding 
on an open grass place, surrounded by small trees. After 
having stalked the animals for a few minutes, I found that 
it was impossible to come unobserved any nearer than 
about two hundred yards from our side, and as none of 
the animals appeared to be looking in our direction, I 
crept along on my knees a few yards beyond the nearest 
cover, having told both gun bearers to remain flat on the 
ground. 

Suddenly one of the nearest stallions saw me. He 
must have given some kind of sign to his " comrades," 
for instantly the whole herd stopped feeding and looked 
around in different directions. I kept as still as I could 
and only raised my gun slowly to take a good aim. I then 
fired at the before-named stallion, but missed. I fired 
again, but with the same result. The open place, where 
the zebras stood, was surrounded on three sides by hills, 
so that the echo of the shots from the .405 Winchester 
rebounded from all directions. This made the herd 
stampede. It fortunately took the direction toward the 
place where I had remained on my knees. I did not 
move until the nearest zebra was within some forty yards, 
when I dispatched two of the animals in quick succes- 
sion. I may remark here that during this expedition I 
had a special permit to kill a great many more zebras and 
other animals than was otherwise allowed on the ordinary 

207 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

sportsman's license, as I was collecting for a scientific 
institution. 

I The other experience, which showed me how imprudent 
these animals are, was made a few days later at the ex- 
treme south end of the same lake. We had been ascending 
and then descending a large, extinct volcano, from the top 
of which we had a most wonderful view of the surround- 
ing country : to the north of us lay, glittering in the rays 
of the tropical sun, beautiful Elmenteita ; to the northwest, 
the blue waters of Lake Nakuru, the Uganda Railroad 
winding its way between the two like a striped, shining 
ribbon ; to the east and west we saw the high escarpments 
that limit the Rift Valley in those directions, and to the 
south of us we could look 'way down into the Rift Valley, 
where the mighty, extinct volcanoes, Longonot and Suswa, 
formed the background ! We had just descended the vol- 
cano, and were lunching under a little tree in a narrow 
valley between two little ridges, when we were suddenly 
startled by the noise of clattering hoofs, and, looking up, 
we found a herd of several hundred zebras galloping right 
down upon us at top speed. 

The tree under which we were sitting was too small 
to afford any protection from our being trampled down 
under the animals' hoofs, so we all ran forward, waving 
our arms and screaming at the top of our lungs, to head 
off the herd. Yet nearer and nearer they came, until at 
about forty yards' distance I dropped two of the animals 
in their tracks. The report of the gun, and the sudden 
fall of their two comrades, made the rest of the herd 
swing off right and left up the sides of the hills. The 
herd had probably been badly frightened, and in their 

208 



THE HARTEBEEST AND ZEBRA 

mad attempt to escape had paid no attention whatever to 
our hunting party, before two of the animals had actually 
been killed ! The skin of one of these was very beautiful. 
It almost appeared as if the skin had been doubly marked, 
the wide stripes having long, dark-yellow stripes in their 
center. 

Many attempts have been made to tame and domes- 
ticate the zebra, both in German and British East 
Africa, but these attempts have not been successful from a 
commercial standpoint. It has not been found so very 
difficult to tame young zebras, but these liberty-loving 
animals do not seem to survive very long when they are 
put to work. The weak part seems to be their front legs, 
which do not enable the animals to pull loads of any size. 
Attempts have also been made to cross the zebra with 
donkeys and ponies, which has resulted in a somewhat 
hardier animal, but several deserted " zebra farms " in 
East Africa show that at present it does not seem to pay 
to domesticate the animal. 

Not only is the zebra killed by the natives and settlers 
for the sake of its meat, but its hide is also often used by 
the white man for furniture covering and for mending 
harness and boots. By the natives of several tribes, belts 
and straps are made of zebra skin, with which the loads 
are generally carried by some tribes in a sling over the fore- 
head. As the zebra is also said to spread cattle diseases, 
and is very destructive in breaking fences and trampling 
down the crops of the settlers, they are gradually being 
killed or driven away from the inhabited parts of the pro- 
tectorate. The time will perhaps not be very remote when 
both the Grevys's and Burchell's zebras will be practically 

209 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

extinct in the protectorate, except in the game preserves, 
like the mountain zebra in South Africa. The govern- 
ment of British East Africa is fully recognizing the de- 
structiveness of the animals and is allowing sportsmen 
and settlers to kill them ofif, permitting now on each license 
twenty zebras to be shot, instead of only two animals pre- 
vious to the latest game regulations. 



4 



CHAPTER XIII 

HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

Of the Hyena family several species exist at present, 
both in India and Africa. Unmistakable signs, such as, 
for instance, a great many remains of the hyenas and 
bones they crushed, show that in earlier ages this carni- 
vorous animal, which at present is confined to the tropics 
of the Old World, also inhabited southern and central 
Europe, where it went as far north as England. In East 
Africa there are two species: the striped and the spotted 
hyena. Of these two, the striped is a good deal smaller 
and less frequently met with than the spotted variety. It 
is more common in Abyssinia and Somaliland, where in 
many localities they are little or not at all disturbed by 
the natives, as they act as scavengers, and in that way 
are of some service to the population. They, therefore, 
become quite daring and often visit camps, where they 
grow so bold as to come close up to the tents to snatch 
away anything that they can find in the way of meat 
or bones. In fact it is told in one of the narratives of a 
shooting expedition in Somaliland, that the sportsmen 
sometimes amused themselves by throwing morsels of 
meat and bones from their evening meal just to hear 
them crunched up by the striped hyena but a few yards 
away from the table. This hyena hardly ever attacks 

211 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

people or cattle, confining its meals, as a rule, to putre- 
fied meat. 

\ The more common, and much larger spotted hyena is, 
indeed, a very uncanny-looking kind of creature. Al- 
though not quite as long, it stands somewhat higher than 
the lion, on account of its extremely long fore legs, which 
make the back of the animal slope down even more than 
that of the kongoni. The color of the spotted hyena is of 
a grayish brown, with irregular and very dark brown 
spots, which sometimes appear to be almost black. The 
head of this hyena is not very unlike that of a large dog; 
its upper part is very round and thick, and the ears are 
comparatively small and rounded; the tail is rather short 
and bushy. The jaw muscles and teeth of this beast are 
of the most extraordinary strength. I have heard from 
reliable sources that bones, which would defy even leopards 
and lions, were with ease crushed by the hyena. On visit- 
ing one of the places where I had the day before shot a 
giraffe, the leg bones of which had been left on the ground, 
we found to our amazement that these heavy bones had 
been crushed by the hyenas, and the greater part of them 
devoured for the sake of the marrow. From the disagree- 
able howls in the night, and from the tracks that we saw 
around the carcass of this giraffe, we had evidence enough 
that its bones had been devoured, not by lions, but by these 
scavengers, which would instantly have fled if the " King 
of Beasts " had appeared. 

It has often been said that this spotted hyena feeds only 
upon animals that it finds already dead, and that it prefers 
putrefied meat to that which has been freshly killed. It 
is true that it does not abhor the most putrefied carcasses, 

212 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

but at the same time it has been proven in a great many 
instances that the hyena often kills its own prey, which it 
devours with the most ravenous appetite. Very often 
horses, mules, and donkeys have been killed by these 
hyenas, although they have been tied up close to the camp- 
fire of the hunting party. Settlers and natives also com- 
plain of the continuous attacks of hyenas upon their cattle 
and sheep. One gentleman from German East Africa 
told me of how three spotted hyenas in one single night 
had killed and partly devoured not less than eleven cows 
from his herd. 

When this beast kills an animal, it generally does it in 
such a way that it rips open the belly with its sharp teeth, 
and then devours the soft intestines and licks out the 
blood from the cavity of the chest. One of the favorite 
meals of the hyena seems to be the udder of the cow, and 
I have heard of an instance in British East Africa, where 
a single hyena killed four cows in one night, devouring 
hardly anything else but their udders. That particular 
animal was probably not very hungry, for otherwise it 
would not have been satisfied with as scanty a meal as that 
of four cow udders, as a hyena has been known to devour 
almost a whole hartebeest in a single night. 

A great many authentic instances are known where 
old and half-starved hyenas have grown bold enough to 
attack even white men who were sleeping at the time. I 
know the truth of the story, which tells of how an English 
sportsman, after a hard day's march, was taking an after- 
noon nap in his hammock. He had it suspended quite 
close to the ground, and had fallen asleep, with his right 
arm hanging down over the side of the hammock. He 

213 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

was awakened by a sudden pain, caused by a bite from a 
large hyena, which had taken hold of his hand, attempting 
to drag him into the bush. As the hunter awoke and 
shouted, the cowardly beast retreated quickly into the 
thicket, and, bent on revenge, the sportsman got his rifle 
and lay down again in the hammock in the same position 
as when the hyena caught his hand. He had only watched 
for a few minutes when the hungry beast came crouching 
out of the bush to attempt a second attack, only to fall dead 
the next moment, struck by a well-aimed bullet between 
the eyes. 

The hyena is not as strictly nocturnal in its habits as 
it is often supposed. Once, when encamped on the eastern 
shores of Lake Elmenteita, I had shot two zebras, as related 
in the foregoing chapter. Most of the meat of the two 
stallions had been brought to camp, while certain parts of 
it still remained where the animals had fallen. There, in 
broad daylight, a large spotted male hyena came out of 
the bush to devour the remains of the zebras, when it was 
discovered by some of the porters. These fellows quietly 
notified their comrades and, without saying a word to me, 
as yet, they surrounded the hyena. With knob-sticks, 
spears and poles, they now made a concerted attack on the 
beast. Before the men could come near enough to strike, 
the hyena darted into a nearby thick bush, where it was 
safe from any blows from sticks or poles. 

The bush had a circumference of some forty feet, and 
the delighted porters now closed in on it from all sides, 
yelling at the top of their lungs. This " war-cry " aroused 
my suspicion, and, just as I was going to start in that 
direction, one of the men came running into camp to tell 

214 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

me of what had happened. Unfortunately, the bush was 
too thick to allow any photographs to be taken of the live 
beast, which both Mr. Lang and I studied for several 
minutes before I dispatched it with a heart shot. As soon 
as we two white men arrived, the hyena seemed to turn 
all its attention toward us, and, displaying its big, snow- 
white teeth, it growled defiance. Yet it was not cour- 
ageous enough to attempt an attack, which a leopard or 
lion, for instance, or even a smaller representative of the 
cat family, would have done under similar circumstances 
without a moment's hesitation. 

\ That hyenas often attack and kill old and feeble natives, 
and drag little children away from the villages to devour 
them in the jungle, is not so much to wonder at, for the 
hyena is not the only carnivorous animal which, once 
having tasted human flesh, prefers it to any other meat. 
The natives themselves are to blame for the hyena's par- 
tiality to human flesh, for, as previously remarked, a good 
many of the tribes do not bury their dead, but throw their 
bodies, as well as, in many cases, old, sick people, whom 
they think may be dying, out into the bush for the very 
purpose of having them eaten by hyenas and other car- 
nivorous animals. 

The hyenas often go together in packs of from four to 
eight and possibly more, particularly in localities where 
there is plenty of game. It has been remarked by some 
old and experienced sportsmen that in certain districts 
the hyenas have greatly increased after the regions have 
been visited regularly by hunting parties. The reason for 
this is probably that a great many animals, which had been 
perhaps only slightly wounded, and not followed up by 

215 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

the hunter, have been more easily caught by the hyenas; 
and also that a great deal of meat is left on the plains from 
animals killed by sportsmen, who in many instances have 
only taken off the head and parts of the skin. 

The hideous howl of a pack of hyenas can never be for- 
gotten, if it has once been listened to in the wilderness. 
It begins with a low, growling tone, which generally works 
itself up to a high pitch, sounding not very much unlike 
the sirens which are used on certain lighthouses. During 
one of my visits to the Sotik we had been disturbed several 
nights by the incessant howls of hyenas close to the camp. 
My Kikuju headman, Mweri, who was very fond of catch- 
ing all kinds of game alive, set a trap, in which one of 
these ugly-looking monsters was caught. As I wanted to 
secure some good photographs of the animal at close quar- 
ters, I let it stay in the trap until about seven o'clock the 
next morning. Then we surrounded the beast, and I suc- 
ceeded in getting several very fine pictures of the hyena, 
which was a male in splendid condition. This specimen 
showed not the slightest sign of fight, only trying to 
frighten away its assailants with the most awful growling 
and constant snapping with the teeth. Mweri had tied the 
trap near to the carcass of a lion, which I had killed the 
day before, and from the howls we understood that the 
place had been visited by the hyena shortly after sunset. 
It had probably been caught very quickly, for its howls 
suddenly ceased, and it remained perfectly mute until we 
surrounded it the next morning. 

If the sportsman wants to kill a hyena just for the sake 
of having shot one — for hyena killing can certainly not be 
classed among real " sport," unless one should come across 

216 




Hyena at Bay. 




Large Wart Hog, Shot in the Kedong Valley. 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

a wandering hyena during the daytime, which very seldom 
happens — he might do so by leaving a freshly killed animal 
where it fell, without letting any human hand touch the 
carcass, and then go back to the place the following morn- 
ing, an hour or two before sunrise. He will then very 
often find the hyenas still at work, crunching up the bones 
after they have devoured the meat of the carcass. When 
one of these animals is killed, the hunter will sometimes 
have hard work to persuade the natives to touch it, as most 
of them will have nothing to do with a hyena. This does 
not much matter, however, for the hyena skin is hardly 
worth while preserving for the trophy room. 

The monkey is another animal which can scarcely be 
classed among " game," and yet almost every sportsman 
who goes to Africa likes to take home a few skins of these 
creatures for souvenirs and remembrances of happy hunt- 
ing days in the big forests. It seems to the reader, per- 
haps, cruel that monkeys are killed at all, as some of them 
certainly are very " human " in their behavior and habits ; 
but it must, on the other hand, not be forgotten that a good 
many species of monkeys are exceedingly destructive, both 
to the crops of white men and natives. I once visited a 
settler not far from Nairobi, who told me that although 
he, night after night, had been shooting at baboons to 
make them leave his garden alone, yet he found that the 
cunning creatures would sneak in when he least expected 
it, and so almost make him despair of the result of his 
labors. In certain districts of East Africa one of the 
smaller fur monkeys, with beautiful olive-green skin, by 
the natives called " engimma," is so destructive to their 

217 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

plantations that the government has taken this monkey 
off the Hst of protected animals for that locality, and al- 
lows the natives to kill as many as they are able to for the 
sake of getting rid of this pest. 

) None of the very largest representatives of the numer- 
ous monkey family exists in British East Africa. Two 
of the most interesting species in this protectorate are the 
destructive baboon and the beautiful colobus monkey. The 
range of this latter monkey, which is one of the most 
coveted hunting trophies as far as monkeys are concerned, 
extends from Abyssinia in the north down to the Kilima- 
Njaro, wherever the condition of the country is suitable 
to its requirements. The colobus love the dense tropical 
and subtropical forests, where they sometimes are found 
on the mountains at an altitude of six to eight thousand 
feet. 

I have often noticed that this monkey never goes far 
away from water, and I once witnessed a most wonderful 
spectacle of a whole troop of these beautiful creatures as 
they were drinking from a rushing mountain stream 
which tumbled down from the large glaciers of Mt. Kenia. 
Big cedars and deciduous trees overhung the brook on both 
sides, so that in several places the branches formed perfect 
arches over the stream. From a good cover, some one 
hundred and fifty yards away, I had the pleasure of wit- 
nessing a regular performance by these graceful monkeys, 
which slid down like eels from the dizzy heights of the 
large cedars until they reached the clear water of the 
stream. Here they were washing their faces in the most 
cute way, and it appeared to me several times as if they 
had even been drinking out of their hands. Two of my 

218 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

men also thought that they saw the monkeys drink in this 
way. Although I am not absolutely sure that they actually 
drank out of the hands, if they did so, it was very much 
like the way in which the sons of the forest, the wild 
Wandorobo, generally drink. I had on this trip not shot 
any colobus monkeys as yet, but it is needless to say that it 
was impossible for me to disturb the peace and apparent 
joy of the company. After about half an hour of dancing 
around, jumping on each others' backs, and performing 
some quite remarkable equilibristic feats, the band sud- 
denly disappeared among the crowns of the mighty trees. 
^ The skin of the colobus monkey is beautifully marked, 
being, as a rule, perfectly black on the greater part of the 
body, with white sides of the face, large white fields, with 
much longer hair on the flanks, and with a long, white, 
and very bushy tail. Another characteristic of these mon- 
keys is that they entirely lack the thumb on their hands, 
and are, therefore, often called by the zoologists the 
" thumbless monkeys." It may here be remarked that 
there is a strange difference between the hair of this 
species of monkeys and that of all the rest of the family. 
Whereas each individual hair of the ordinary monkey 
distinctly shows different shades of color, those of the 
colobus monkeys are uniformly white or black. 

' On my last trip to Mt. Kenia my attention was one day 
called by a Wandorobo guide to an absolutely white colo- 
bus. I could not at first believe his story, but after a few 
minutes' search of the trees I actually found, among a 
troop of ordinary colobus monkeys, a very large specimen, 
which was absolutely snow-white, without a speck of black 
anywhere on its body or tail. This particular animal 

219 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

seemed to be very much more shy than the rest of the 
troop, and it took me almost an hour before I could get a 
shot at it, bringing it down from the top of an enormous 
cedar, from where it must have fallen over a hundred feet 
before it struck the ground. A few minutes afterward 
I secured a second specimen of white colobus monkey, but 
this one was somewhat smaller, and had a tiny, thin, white 
streak of grayish black hair in the middle of its back. 
This faint spot was about half an inch wide and somewhat 
over three inches long. 

Very little is known, even by the natives, about the 
habits of this generally very shy monkey, for it lives only 
in the dense forest. It hardly ever does any damage to 
the crops of the natives, who may have their little " sham- 
bas " in the vicinity. The colobus monkeys live chiefly 
on buds, fruit, and certain insects, and they often go in 
troops of from twenty to one hundred at a time. It may, 
perhaps, be unusual, but I once found on the southwestern 
slopes of Mt. Kenia a place between two streams which 
seemed literally alive with these beautiful creatures, there 
being at least three to four hundred of them within a 
radius of a few hundred yards. 

A great many attempts have been made to capture, 
tame, and bring the colobus to Europe and America, but 
all in vain. It seems as if the animal were too frail to 
survive the voyage, most of those shipped from East 
Africa having died before the vessel reached Port Said. 
I caught a beautiful young specimen in 1909, and had it 
for several days in camp. It became quite tame and even 
ate out of my hand. My hopes grew that it would be 
possible to get the monkey safely home to New York, when 

220 




Ordixarv Colobus Monkeys. 




Two White Colobus Monkeys. 

The right-hand one is a large female without a black spot on its body skin. 

Both secured on Kenia. 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

I would have given it to our beautiful Bronx " Zoo," but, 
alas ! after a few days it began to ail and refused to eat. I 
at once let it loose, thinking it would survive if left to 
return to the troop again. But, unfortunately, we found 
it dead the next morning, only a few hundred yards away 
from our camp. 

The baboons are ugly, doglike monkeys, which run 
around in large troops. It is not an uncommon thing to 
see a hundred or more of them together at one time. 
Although most baboons are able to climb trees with the 
greatest ease, yet they very often are seen on the ground, 
and sometimes, even when pursued, they will go off at a 
great pace over the grass rather than to make for the 
nearest trees. This may only be a proof of intelligence on 
their part, for they have probably learned that the largest 
tree gives no protection from the white man's firearms. 
That they are well able to distinguish between the white 
hunter and natives has more than once attracted my atten- 
tion. 

It is very curious to observe a troop of these monkeys. 
They are able to change the expression of their faces in 
a most wonderful way, and who knows if this is not a 
" sign language " well understood by all baboons ? When 
disturbed, and the troop goes off at great speed, the little 
ones ride on their mothers' backs, while the animals eject 
a series of short, barklike sounds. The color of the East 
African baboons is olive-green to yellowish brown. The 
callosities on the buttocks are very large and of a pinkish 
red color. As the " arms " and legs of this monkey are 
almost equal in length, this makes him really more fit to 
run on the ground than to live in trees. 

16 221 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

\ The destructiveness of the baboon is very great and he 
is, therefore, much hated both by settlers and natives. 
His chief menu consists of roots, fruit, and tree-gum, but 
he seems to be equally fond of insects, birds' eggs, and 
small reptiles. It is fortunate for the agriculturist that 
the baboon has other enemies than man, for the favorite 
dish of the leopard is said to be the meat of baboons. 
These monkeys are very easily tamed, and soon follow 
their captors around like dogs. They are often taught 
to perform all sorts of tricks, and one of the cutest 
" shows," that I have seen, was exhibited in front of the 
hotel in Nairobi by two Hindoos, who had a small troop 
of well-trained baboons. 

There are in East Africa two prominent species of the 
pig family, which are ordinarily met with by the sports- 
man. These are the Bush Pig and the still more common 
Wart Hog. Both of these animals are quite numerous in 
most parts of the Protectorate. The bush pig is hardly 
worth shooting, but the hideous-looking head of the wart 
hog, with its enormous tusks, makes it a rather interesting 
hunting trophy. The bush pig is not so often shot by the 
white man, for it appears to be more strictly nocturnal in 
its habits than the latter. It is also more fond of dense 
jungles and large forests, and, therefore, not often seen 
by the hunter, for the animal is very wary, has very fine 
hearing, and excellent scenting qualities. As it is living 
mostly in dense jungles, It is able to hear or scent the 
oncoming sportsman long before the latter catches a 
glimpse of his prey. The bush pig is somewhat smaller 
than the ordinary domesticated pig, and is of a reddish 

222 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

brown color. It has comparatively small tusks, which 
appear to be no larger than those of an ordinary hog. 
The animal does an immense amount of harm to the crops 
of both settlers and natives, the gardens of which it de- 
stroys in short order. It is fond of the sweet potatoes that 
many of the East African natives grow, and is the most 
destructive animal in this respect in the Protectorate. 
Combined efforts have fortunately, in many districts, now 
almost exterminated these undesirable nightly visitors. 

\ On Mt. Kenia and in the forests of the Mau Escarp- 
ment there is said to exist a very large bush pig, of which 
all sorts of mysterious tales are told. This animal, gen- 
erally called the " giant pig," is said by the natives to be 
of an almost black color and " as large as a zebra." Its 
skin is supposed to be covered with long bristles, and the 
beast carries enormous tusks. Very little is known about 
this animal, but I have been told by a settler that he actually 
saw this ferocious-looking beast only some eighty yards 
away at a time when he, unfortunately, had no gun at 
hand. It is said that a well-known English naturalist has 
promised a reward of £500 ($2,500) for the first perfect 
skin of the giant pig, which he wants to secure for his 
collection. I myself have found big tusks on Mt. Kenia 
which could have come from no other animal than a giant 
pig. One of these, which was broken off at the point, 
measured over twenty-two inches in length and almost 
eight inches in circumference at the base. As far as I 
know, there has been no authentic account of the life and 
habits of this animal, and there is at present no perfect 
skin of the giant pig in existence. 

The common wart hog is larger than the ordinary bush 

223 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

pig, and stands sometimes nearly three feet in height over 
the shoulder. The head is disproportionately large, with 
an exceedingly broad and flat forehead, which ends with 
an almost square muzzle. On each side of the face there 
are three strange-looking protuberances, or warts, and 
from these the pig derives its name. The largest of these 
warts are the two which project right under the eyes, 
where they grow out to a length of some five to six inches. 
Sometimes they are so long that the tips fall somewhat 
down, but otherwise they stand straight out at right angles 
from the side of the face. No animal could be more 
hideous-looking than the wart hog, with its almost cylin- 
drical body, extremely thin legs, and enormous head. The 
wart hog carries tusks which sometimes attain a length 
of over twenty inches, although a good average tusk only 
measures from fifteen to eighteen inches on the curve. 
Strangely enough, in this species, it is the tusks of the 
upper jaw that are the longest. They curve in a semi- 
circle outward and upward until, I have been told, some- 
times in very old specimens, the tips almost meet, forming 
a sort of arch over the nose. 

The wart hog does not exclusively frequent swamps 
and, damp places, as has often been asserted, but is more 
fond of perfectly dry plains and not too dense bush coun- 
try. I believe it is quite a rare thing to find wart hogs 
around swamps, as I myself have hunted for weeks around 
such places as the Ol-Bolossat and other marches of the 
upper Rift Valley, but I have failed to find any wart 
hogs in these places. Although this ugly-looking beast 
is seen to feed along water courses and among the bush 
that generally lines the banks of rivers, yet it is often 

224 



HYENAS, MONKEYS, AND PIGS 

found quite far away from the nearest water. It seems 
to feed chiefly upon the roots of certain trees and bushes, 
and is fond of making big holes in the ground, in which 
it occasionally hides. 

"" The wart hog lives in families of four to six, but old 
" tuskers " are often met with alone. It is the most com- 
ical sight to witness an excited family of wart hogs as they 
dash for cover, for they all turn their tails straight up in 
the air, in right angles with the line of their backs, and as 
the tails are bare, except for a little tuft at the extreme 
end, it looks as if the animals were supplied with whisk- 
brooms. This, I have several times noticed, is also the 
case with lions, for one of the lions that charged me came 
on with the tail held straight up in the air. It is as well 
the manner of the rhinos. The wart hog never seems 
to exhibit any particular courage, and even if wounded 
and cornered, hardly ever dares to charge its pursuer. 
However, cases have been known where wart hogs have 
been hunted with dogs, and where they have been able to 
rip up and kill several of the pack before the hunter could 
interfere. 

V One of the largest wart hogs I shot, I first saw lying 
down under a bush. I had been stalking it for a couple 
of minutes, when it must suddenly have gotten a whiff of 
our wind, for it rushed up and turned quickly around in 
different directions, sniffing the air. By this time I had 
come up to within seventy-five yards of the beast, which 
was an old male with large tusks, which glittered beauti- 
fully in the bright sunlight. As the animal turned its 
broadside to me I fired, aiming for the heart, as usual. 
Instantly the big wart hog ran off, as if shot out of a gun. 

225 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

However, it soon began to encircle a large bush in the 
vicinity at a rapid pace. Six or seven times at least it ran 
madly round and round that bush, until it suddenly turned 
over and made several somersaults before it stretched 
itself out on the ground and expired. When cutting the 
animal up, I found that the bullet had pierced both lungs, 
and yet the animal was able to run for all those seconds at 
such a speed before it succumbed! The meat of old wart 
hogs has a very strong and disagreeable taste, but the 
chops of young ones are quite palatable even to the white 
man. Most of the natives, however, refuse to eat the meat 
of either bush pig or wart hog, and all orthodox Moham- ' 
medans cannot even be induced to touch the animal, being 
forbidden by their Koran to have anything to do withj 
representatives of the pig family. 



CHAPTER XIV 

AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

Africa has not nearly as many reptiles as India and 
the Malayan Islands, although some of the largest and 
most poisonous snakes also inhabit the Dark Continent. 
Of all these, none is more dreaded than the puff adder. 
This deadly reptile is spread almost all over Africa, and 
is everywhere much feared and shunned by the natives. 
The puff adder has gotten its name from the fact that it 
is able to draw in a very large amount of air at one time, 
which causes a noticeable swelling of the body, and when 
it then suddenly lets the air escape it rushes out with a 
queer puffing or hissing sound, which may be heard for 
quite some distance. 

It is a most hideous-looking creature, with a com- 
paratively thick and short body and a broad, flat, triangu- 
lar head, which is more clearly defined from the rest of 
the body than in most of the other snakes. Over the eyes 
and nose this repulsive-looking creature has a sort of horny 
shield, studded with straight-outstanding hard points. 
The nostrils are very small and, curiously enough, open 
straight upward, and very close to the wide mouth with 
its deadly fangs. The whole body is covered with com- 
paratively large scales, which overlap each other like 
pointed shingles. The color is arranged in almost V- 

227 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

shaped dark brown bands, with ends pointing backward, 
while the rest of the body is more of an ash-gray hue. The 
body ends in a short tail, which is exceedingly small in 
comparison with the size of the reptile. 

(This reptile seems to frequent not only sandy places, 
but also wooded country and forests. Very little authentic 
information is obtainable about the pufif adder, but the 
natives of different districts have told me that it has a most 
curious way of striking what it wants to kill. Living on 
the smallest animals, he does not hesitate to attack horses, 
cattle, and even man, and its poison is so deadly that the 
largest animal will succumb a few hours after it has been 
bitten by a full-grown snake. People are said to die within 
a very few minutes from the time of the inoculation. I 
have killed two puff adders, both of which were lying near 
cattle-paths; and, strangely enough, both with their tails 
close to the path and the rest of the body forming almost 
a right angle with the same. The natives told me that 
they do this because, when they strike, they first lift the 
tail-end of the body and then, throwing this quickly down 
upon the ground, swing their heads around in a semicircle, 
thus striking the victim unexpectedly. Whether it is 
so or not is impossible to say, but I have heard this twice 
affirmed by different natives of widely separated districts. 

In the southern part of Africa the natives feel very 
happy when they are able to locate a puff adder, for, after 
they have killed it, they extract the poison from its head 
and dip the points of their arrows in the deadly substance 
for the purpose of using them to kill both human enemies 
and wild beasts. Fortunately, the puff adder is not as com- 
mon in British East Africa as it is in Uganda. In this 

228 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

latter country, as well as in the southern parts of the 
Sudan, it is very numerous and has often caused the death 
of natives by its fatal bite. In these last-named countries 
it also seems to grow somewhat larger and is not infre- 
quently found to exceed six feet in length, with a girth of 
some twelve to fifteen inches. 

A puff adder, which I found on one of the foothills of 
Mt. Kenia, seemed to be almost impossible to kill. I had 
passed close by the reptile's tail, stepping not more than 
two inches from the same, when the gun bearer, who was 
walking close behind me, saw the hideous creature, and 
begged me to shoot it with the gun. My first inclination 
was to do so, but, not wanting to spoil the beautifully 
marked skin, I secured one of the sticks of the porters, 
with which they support their loads from the shoulders. 
With this weapon I struck the snake over its head several 
times. I then lifted it up on the end of the cane and car- 
ried it for a while myself, as I could not induce any of the 
men to do it for me. They assured me that the snake 
would not die before sunset, unless I completely severed 
the head from the body. This I did not care to do, as I 
wanted to preserve the whole skin of the reptile ; but when 
we arrived at our camping place about two hours later I 
put down the snake a few yards away from the place 
which I had selected for my tent, and got ready to take 
some photographs of the puff adder before it should be 
skinned. 

Imagine my surprise when I came back with the camera 
and found that the snake was slowly crawling away from 
the place where I had put it ! After having placed it again 
on a bare spot and taken a few photographs, I completely 

229 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

crushed the head with a stone and then told a couple of 
our " black taxidermists " to skin it. One of them came 
back in a few minutes to tell me that the snake was again 
worming away and that they did not dare to touch it. I 
then tied the snake with a heavy string to a stick driven 
into the ground, and, incredible as it sounds, it seemed 
still to be trying to wiggle away when I saw it last, just 
before sunset, and it was impossible to get any of the 
" skin men " to do anything with it that day. 

The python is another snake quite frequently seen in 
British East Africa. The python is, perhaps, the most 
widely spread of all the species of snakes, for it is not only 
found in Africa, India, and Australia, but also southern 
Europe, in the West Indies, and the southwestern part of 
North America ; indeed, it seems to be a denizen of all the 
warmer regions of the world, tropical and subtropical. 
The Indian python is the largest of the family. This huge 
reptile sometimes reaches the length of twenty-seven to 
thirty feet, with a girth of sometimes even more than two 
feet. Next to the Indian python in size comes the python 
which is found in the damp forests of West Africa, where 
it sometimes attains a length of over eighteen to twenty 
feet, with a circumference of just about as many inches. 
The body of this mighty reptile is somewhat depressed, 
the belly being more flat than is generally the case with 
snakes. The scales are very large and marked with dark 
brown, irregular spots of different sizes, most of which 
are connected by long, zigzag stripes running along each 
side of the body. The head is also well defined and the 
tail is short and stubby. 

230 



'^"''sJf-'^ 







The Deadly Puff Adder. 




Iguana, the Largest of African Lizards. 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

This giant reptile is not as fond of open and arid coun- 
try as many other snakes are, but seems to love damp but 
not too thick forests, where it is often seen lying on the 
large limbs of trees, from where it will fling itself upon its 
prey as it passes under the tree. The python is not afraid 
of water, but, on the contrary, is found swimming across 
lakes and rivers, and natives have assured me that the 
python often catches and devours fish, although I have no 
authentic proof that this is the case. The chief menu of 
the python consists of the smaller antelopes and half- 
grown goats and sheep, which the hideous monster first 
kills by crushing them between its coils. If the python 
cannot find antelopes, goats, or sheep, it will be content 
with birds of different kinds. 

When the big reptile has seized its prey and squeezed 
it into a mass of tangled bone and flesh, it proceeds to 
swallow it whole, head first. It is a slow process, but is 
made easier by the ejection of a great quantity of saliva 
over the victim. This constitutes a kind of "grease," 
which makes it possible for the python to convey its prey 
through the throat into the intestines, which is done by 
the successive contracting of the segments of its body. 
When the snake has swallowed its prey, and particularly 
when this has been an antelope of considerable size, or a 
kid, it is extremely lazy and slow in its movements, but 
otherwise the big brute is very agile and fierce. The 
natives fear all kinds of snakes, and seem to have a tre- 
mendous respect for this reptile, although they know that 
it is not poisonous. I have heard from Lumbwa men that 
this snake has sometimes devoured little children, who 
have been caught by the python near the villages. It is, 

231 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

however, probably very rarely done, for the snake, in spite 
of its great strength, shares the fear of man with the rest 
of the animal creation. 

The first python I ever saw in the jungle was killed 
under quite dramatic circumstances. We had left our 
camp one morning at a place on the Mau Escarpment, 
where we had spent the night at an altitude of over 7,000 
feet. After about an hour's march through thick forest, 
we came into a more open country, where lots of charred 
tree trunks, many of which had fallen down, gave evidence 
of a previous fierce forest fire. Our march was somewhat 
hindered here by these fallen trees, over which we had to 
climb. Suddenly I stepped over something that made my 
foot slip, and which slid away from under my boot, but I 
did not think anything of it at the time. The first and 
second men behind me also passed the same obstruction 
without noticing anything particular, but the third man 
gave a tremendous yell, and as I quickly turned around I 
saw the head of a large python come hissing over .the 
ground, as it seemed ready to throw itself over the terrified 
porter. 

The rifle I carried that morning was the little Mann- 
licher, and, quicker than I can describe it, I fired at the 
head of the monster, hitting it squarely in its open mouth, 
as it was facing me at that moment. The bullet went 
clean through the head, and at such close distance of only 
about seven to eight yards, the velocity of the bullet almost 
exploded the whole head, and thus instantly killed the 
python. None of the porters wanted to venture into the 
grass to pull the reptile out, for they feared that it was 
still alive; so I went in myself, and grasping the python 

232 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

by its shattered head, I tried to pull it out, but its weight 
was too great, the wet grass making the skin so slippery 
that it was impossible to get a good hold of it. 

\ When the men saw that I had grasped the reptile, they 
came to my aid. We then brought it out to a small place, 
from which the porters had mowed the grass with their 
knives. It was unfortunately too dark to photograph it, 
and as we had a long day's march before us, I did not want 
to stop and wait for the sun to rise; so we skinned the 
snake as quickly as possible and resumed our march. This 
python measured sixteen feet three inches before it was 
skinned and had a girth of nineteen and one half inches. 
Another python, which I later killed not far from Mom- 
basa, on the way to the Shimba Hills, measured but eleven 
feet two inches in length and only seventeen and three 
quarter inches in circumference. This latter snake was 
hanging down from the large limb of a wild fig tree, some 
twenty feet from the ground, and right above a little native 
path which our caravan was following, the big head slowly 
swinging to and fro like a pendulum. I thought the snake 
was perhaps in the very act of throwing itself down upon 
some unsuspecting victim in the grass below. Suddenly 
the reptile caught sight of the caravan and quickly pulled 
its head back upon the limb, putting it beside a branch as 
if it wanted to hide itself from us. I was at the time carry- 
ing the .405 Winchester repeater, and gave it a bullet, 
which cut the spine about two inches back of the skull, 
causing its instant death; and, with a loud thud, it fell 
to the ground, much to the surprise and joy of the porters. 
The skin of this snake had the appearance of having been 
recently oiled, and several pieces of old skin, which still 

233 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

remained, showed that it had probably just exchanged this 
for the new skin. 

\ In British East Africa snakes are fortunately not so 
very often found, for they never occur there in such abund- 
ance as they do in other countries, which have a more 
damp and hot climate. During the fourteen months that 
I have spent in East Africa I have only seen and killed 
two pythons, two puff adders, one long, green water snake, 
and another black and very poisonous snake, the name of 
which latter I do not know. This last snake was some five 
feet in length and almost uniformly black. It crawled 
into camp one Sunday morning, and the porters raised a 
tremendous *' kelele," shouting at the top of their lungs, 
" Nyoka mbaya, nyoka mbaya, Bwana!" ("A poisonous 
snake, a poisonous shake. Sir!") This hateful reptile I 
also killed with a stick, as I did not want to spoil the skin 
with a bullet. The porters again refused to handle it until 
Mr. Lang and I had taken it up to show them that it was 
dead. Gripping its head firmly with my left hand, I took 
a little stick and pressed the point of one of the large fangs 
to see what would happen. I noticed now how quite a 
large drop of yellow substance was formed on the stick, 
evidently constituting the reptile's deadly poison. I regret 
that at the time I did not have any proper receptacle in 
which to preserve the poison, for it would have been very 
interesting to have had the substance analyzed afterwards. 
This snake we did not skin, but preserved it in alcohol for 
the museum. 

Besides snakes there seem to be very few reptiles in 
British East Africa, with the exception of small iguanas, 

234 




Chamkleon, Which Certainly Possesses Protective Coloration. 




A Three-horned, Small, Tree Lizard. 



i 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

lizards and the chameleons, which latter are able to change 
their color instantly from dark green to bright red, or from 
ash-gray to an almost purple color. I have also seen a 
couple of small scorpions, one of which had the impudence 
to crawl into our tent, which the careless " boy " had left 
open, as there were no mosquitoes around. The sting 
from the tail of this scorpion is very painful, but does not 
prove fatal to grown-up people, although children some- 
times have been known to succumb to its effect. 

One of the mightiest of reptiles is the crocodile, which 
inhabits almost all the inland lakes and rivers of Africa. 
These hideous beasts, too well known to need describing, 
sometimes grow very audacious, and often attack, kill, 
and devour the natives, particularly old people and little 
children. The crocodiles on the Upper Nile are perfectly 
enormous, sometimes attaining a length of eighteen feet, 
and over. The strength of these beasts must be fabulous, 
for there have been authentic reports of how one single 
crocodile pulled down a big bull under water and killed 
him. One of the strangest things that has probably ever 
happened in this respect was the killing of a large bull 
rhinoceros by a single crocodile. This animal got hold 
of one of the hind legs of the rhino, and probably by twist- 
ing its mighty tail around some rocks in the river bottom, 
was able gradually to drag in the struggling quadruped 
in spite of all its strength and bulk. Farther and far- 
ther down into deep water the fighting couple went, 
until other reptiles of the same kind joined the chase, 
and soon killed and devoured the mighty beast. I should 
hardly have been able to believe this, if I had not my- 

235 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

self seen three photographs taken of this remarkable 
scene. 

One of the most pathetic stories that I have ever heard, 
and which I know is perfectly true, happened in the south- 
ern part of Africa a couple of years ago. A missionary, 
belonging to an English Protestant society, and who had 
been working among one of the inland tribes, was making 
his way down to the coast, where, in Delagoa Bay, he was 
to be married to his fiancee, who had come out from Eng- 
land to join him. With a small party of natives he had 
already been marching several days, when one morning 
they had to cross a shallow stream, mostly overgrown with 
reeds and rushes. This messenger of peace was armed 
only with a shotgun, for the purpose of securing game 
birds for his food, and, not suspecting any crocodiles or 
other dangerous beasts in the vicinity, he had been careless 
enough even to carry this gun unloaded. Just as he was 
about to step up out of the little stream, he was suddenly 
seized by a monstrous crocodile, which in a few seconds 
had completely severed both of his legs above the knees, 
and then disappeared into the water. The frightened 
natives scattered in all directions instead of coming to his 
aid, but the young man had courage and presence of 
mind enough to take up his notebook and in a hurry 
scribble a few words of farewell to his betrothed, while 
his life was rapidly ebbing away! When the ^)orters 
afterwards returned to the place he was dead. Know- 
ing his destination, the cowardly blacks brought the 
notebook and his other belongings down to the coast. 
The terrible grief and despair of the young woman, as 
she read the hastily scribbled lines, which simply ended 

236 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

with some blurred marks, is more easily imagined than 
described ! 

In British East Africa it is in the Athi and Tana Rivers 
and Lake Baringo that the sportsman finds the greatest 
number of crocodiles, as well as the largest. I must con- 
fess that I am possessed of such a hatred for these brutes 
that wherever I saw one I shot it, sometimes without even 
bothering to measure or skin it. One of these beasts 
killed on the shores of Lake Hannington, showed when 
we cut up his belly that his last meal had consisted of a 
couple of pink-colored flamingoes, but otherwise the croco- 
diles feed chiefly upon smaller animals and fish, which 
they are able to catch in the streams. 

I once came to a certain village that had been terror- 
ized for some time by a monstrous old crocodile, which 
had taken away a good many women and children, accord- 
ing to the stories told by the natives. They also affirmed 
that several times spears had been thrown at the big rep- 
tile, but all to no avail. This brute lived in a swamp 
formed by a small stream, and was often in hiding near 
the place where the women came to get water. As I asked 
them to show me the hiding place of the crocodile, no one 
wanted to venture near, but they pointed out some bushes 
in the distance, under which they had several times noticed 
the monster. With my powerful Mauser rifle in hand, I 
walked cautiously toward this place. When within some 
thirty yards of the dense, but low bushes, the crocodile sur- 
prised me by rushing out and making straight for me, with 
his big jaws wide open and glistening with the many sharp 
teeth ! I fell on one knee to be near the ground, and opened 
fire. Before the dreaded reptile could close his mouth, I 
17 237 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

had had time to shoot thrice, all three shots penetrating 
the animal from mouth to the end of the tail, and hashing 
it up in the most terrible way. This brute was over four- 
teen feet long. No sooner had the villagers seen that 
their hated enemy was killed than they set upon it with 
stones, clubs, and spears, almost hacking the thing to 
pieces, before I had the chance to measure it. 

\ The wisest way to protect oneself from attacks of croc- 
odiles, when crossing a river where the water is fairly 
deep, is first to fire a few shots into the stream. In this 
way I have several times with safety crossed rivers which 
were full of crocodiles, without any of them having put 
in appearance anywhere near the place. The only shots 
which will instantly kill a crocodile are those that either 
hit the brain, break the spine back of the neck, or else tear 
the heart literally to pieces. A bullet that simply goes 
through the heart will not hinder the monster from rush- 
ing back into the water and disappearing before it dies. 
The skin of the African crocodile is so much rougher and 
thicker than that of the American alligator, that it does 
not seem to have any commercial value, otherwise some 
enterprising person would be able in a short while to 
secure a great number of hides of these hideous reptiles 
from this part of Africa. 

There are also a great number of game birds in the 
Protectorate. The meat of these constitutes a most pal- 
atable variation from that of the antelopes, but, strange 
to say, even the birds seem to be somewhat " dryer," and 
more devoid of fat than the kindred game birds of north- 
ern regions, just as the antelope meat is, as a rule, less 

238 




Crocodilk, Shot at Lake Hannington. 
It had just devoured two pink flamingoes. 





Buzzards in the Act of Getting on the Remains of a Hartebeest. 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

juicy and fat than that of deer, elk, or moose. The king 
of game birds is, in my opinion, the Giant Bustard. This 
stately bird, which is often seen on all the large plains of 
British East Africa, stands somewhat over four feet in 
height, and measures about nine feet across the wings. 
As the bird is generally found walking among the dry 
grass and stones of the plains, his coloring of dark 
grayish brown is indeed more protective than that of most 
mammals or birds. The bustards feed, like our turkey, 
mostly on insects, and their favorite food seems to be 
grasshoppers, but if these are scarce they will not refuse 
fruit and seeds. 

They are very wary and capable of making out the 
hunter at so great a distance that it is practically impos- 
sible ever to get a chance at them with a shotgun. Their 
great size and thickness of feathers would also make a 
shotgun of no value, unless loaded with very heavy shot. 
The sportsman is indeed lucky if he can come within rea- 
sonable rifle range of these graceful birds, and two hun- 
dred and fifty to three hundred yards would almost be 
considered " close quarters " with them ! When disturbed, 
the bustard often flies away only a short distance, gen- 
erally to alight again almost straight in front of the on- 
coming hunter. Then it calmly walks away, picking at 
insects and worms, or whatever it chooses to eat, until 
the sportsman comes up to within some two hundred to 
three hundred yards, when the giant bird again takes a 
few long strides as if running to start off on its wings. 
During this short run it begins to flap with these, until 
it finally lifts itself majestically from the ground. In 
localities where bustards have been more often shot at, 

239 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

they will fly a great distance, when aroused, and usu- 
ally not be seen any more that day. These birds seem 
to like to go by themselves, or at the most in pairs. I 
have never seen more than two together and very rarely 
even that. 

One day, after some successful hunting near the beau- 
tiful Lake Elmenteita, we were returning to camp just a 
little after four in the afternoon, when I heard a queer, 
hissing sound somewhat behind and above my head. 
Turning around and looking up, I saw an enormous giant 
bustard flying at great speed at about two hundred yards' 
height from the ground. I happened to have the .405 
Winchester in my hand at the time, and was lucky enough 
to hit the monstrous bird with my second shot, which 
brought it down with a crash. In measuring it we found 
that the spread between the wings was ten feet two inches, 
and it weighed a little over twenty-eight pounds. Al- 
though probably an old bird, to judge from the size, the 
flesh was delicious and more juicy than that of the East 
African birds in general. We took the skin oflf in such 
a way as to preserve it perfectly for the museum, while 
the meat was used for our table. 

There is also a similar, but much smaller species of 
bustard, which is more frequently met with all over East 
Africa than his cousin, the giant bustard. These birds 
also seem to shun "society," as I, at least, have never seen 
more than two together. Most often only one bird is seen, 
walking along erect, except when picking up his food from 
the ground. All the bustards are very good walkers and 
will often try to run away at first, unless hotly pursued. 
The colof of the smaller bustard is also of a grayish brown 

240 




Five Ostriches Running Away at High Speed at Some 300 Yards. 




Huge Marabou Stork. 
Compare the size of the large porter on the ground with that of the bird. 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

hue, which is a good protective color, as the bird is gen- 
erally found among dry grass and stones on the plains or 
among sparsely scattered mimosa trees. They have, in 
comparison, very long legs, but only three toes, like the 
ostrich. 

The last-named bird has recently been put on the list 
of animals altogether protected, except on a special permit, 
which may be given to sportsmen who are accredited from 
some scientific institution. The reason for thus protecting 
the ostrich is the constantly growing ostrich feather in- 
dustry of East Africa. For this purpose young ostriches 
are run down on horseback, corralled, and driven to the 
" shamba," or farm, where they soon become very tame 
and are kept in, strangely enough, by wire fences so frail- 
looking that it seemed to me that the powerful birds could 
easily make their escape if they wanted to, for they possess 
a great deal of strength in their legs. I have heard of at 
least one authentic case, where a wounded ostrich caused 
the death of a native by ripping up his stomach with a 
blow from one of his sharp-pointed toes. 

One very often finds ostrich feathers on the ground, 
which have fallen off the wild birds. These the natives 
pick up and use in their caps and in a good many orna- 
ments of war. The meat of one of the ostriches I shot on 
my first trip in 1906, when each sportsman was allowed 
to kill two of these birds, was too tough to be palatable, 
but it may be that the bird was a very old one. The legend 
that the ostrich never sits upon its nest, or broods over its 
eggs, is not true in the case of the East African ostrich at 
least, for I have twice seen female ostriches on their nests, 

241 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

each running away as soon as she became aware of me. 
One ostrich nest in the upper Rift Valley contained not 
less than eighteen huge eggs, nine of which were gathered 
in one heap, over which the bird was brooding. The other 
eggs, which evidently the mother bird could not cover, 
had been kicked away from the nest proper and were lying 
all around the same. The ostrich egg is not an unpalat- 
able dish. Mr. Lang and I once had three hearty meals, 
consisting chiefly of the contents of one single ostrich eggy 
which is said to contain almost as much substance as two 
dozen ordinary hen's eggs. 

Another and still more common game bird in East 
Africa is the guinea fowl, or " kanga," as the natives call 
it. This bird represents here the pheasant family, and 
seems to be spread all over the continent. Contrary to the 
habits of the bustard, the guinea fowls always are together 
in large flocks. I have repeatedly seen anywhere from 
twenty to one hundred birds at one time on the north- 
western plains of the Laikipia Plateau, and I once saw at 
least two hundred to two hundred and fifty together. One 
Saturday morning, after having discovered this enormous 
flock of guinea fowl close to our camp the previous night, 
I started out with a shotgun in hand just a little before 
daybreak. Anxious to secure some of the birds for food 
over Sunday, when I generally rested in camp, and closely 
followed by only one man, I started in the direction 
where we had seen the birds the evening before. We 
had only gone a few hundred yards from camp when we 
heard the whirring noise of the guinea fowl as they flew 
up all around us. Just as I got the gun ready to fire I saw 

242 




A Pair of Fi.amingoks. 

They became so tame that the author could walk up to them within a few 

yards before they would stroll away, as seen in this picture. 




Photographing a Charging Animal. 



AFRICAN REPTILES AND BIRDS 

a regular cloud of the birds against the sky, into which 
flock I fired twice at random, for it was not light enough 
to take an accurate aim. Detailing two men to remain on 
the place until after the sun had risen, and then to pick up 
the birds that had been killed, we continued our trip for 
the day. Imagine my surprise when, on returning to the 
camp in the late afternoon, I found that the boys had 
picked up not less than twelve birds, which formed a very 
welcome and appetizing addition to our menu for Satur- 
day night and Sunday. 

There are several species of the guinea fowl in Africa, 
most of them distinguished by quite a high and bony 
helmet on top of the head and by stiff wattles, which stand 
out at an angle of about forty-five degrees from the begin- 
ning of the gap. The plumage of the common East Afri- 
can guinea fowl is blackish blue with small, almost round, 
white spots, while certain varieties have a couple of white 
feathers in each wing. There also exists a species of 
crested guinea fowl, although I was not fortunate enough 
to secure any of them during my trips. 

Among other very common game birds are the de- 
licious wild geese and ducks of different kinds, abundant 
in most of the rivers. Then the tiny snipe, and an in- 
numerable number of quail, which sometimes succeed in 
frightening the men as they go buzzing up like skyrockets 
at their very feet. I never saw the men more surprised 
than when I succeeded in shooting down these swift quail 
before they had gotten more than a few yards away from 
where they rose out of the grass. There are certainly 
enough game birds in Africa to make this country a 

243 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

veritable paradise for any man fond of bird hunting, and 
when the great variety of beautiful winged creatures, like 
the flamingo, the crested crane, the hornbill, and other 
smaller birds, are taken into consideration. East Africa 
constitutes a very interesting field for the ornithologist, 
who, perhaps, does not care to hunt big game. 



CHAPTER XV 

THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

British East Africa is one of the most thinly popu- 
lated districts of the Dark Continent, owing to the fact that 
great stretches of the country consist of barren, arid lands, 
and hundreds of square miles are nothing but deserts. On 
the other hand, the country comprises many high plateaus 
where there are hardly any people at all at the present 
time, although in these regions, lying at an altitude of from 
five thousand to eight thousand feet, there is plenty of 
water, good grazing lands, and fine forests. These parts 
of the country are particularly suitable for white settlers, 
as they have a splendid climate all the year round. 

The coast is quite densely populated by the Swahili 
people, who for hundreds of years have been slaves of 
Arab and Portuguese masters. This tribe belongs to the 
great Bantu race of Negroes, which comprises most of the 
peoples of the whole of Central, East, and West Africa. 
The Swahili resembles greatly the common type of Negroes 
that live in the United States. They have, as a rule, very 
prominent cheek bones, heavy, thick, projecting lips, low 
foreheads, and curly hair, which the men generally wear 
short, sometimes shaving it into strange-looking figures. 
The women have their hair made into exceedingly small 
braids, which run like ridges along their heads, and some- 

245 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

times end with a short " pigtail." Other women of the 
same race do not braid their hair at all, but let it stand 
out in big bunches all around the head. 

These people have probably been taught by their early 
masters to build better houses than the inland tribes. They 
first put into the ground poles in a square or rectangle, 
then fasten crossbeams on to these with ropes made from 
creepers and tree bark, and, after having filled in with 
smaller twigs and branches, so that the whole resembles 
open basket work, they plaster the walls with clay or 
mud, which makes the houses fairly rain and wind proof. 
The roofs, sloping down at an angle of about forty-five 
degrees, are thatched with coarse, long grass, and not 
seldom covered on top with palm and banana leaves, 
which often are put on fresh before the rainy season 
begins. 

When a Swahili couple go to housekeeping they cer- 
tainly do not need a great many things, for the furniture 
of the house generally consists of a roughly made bed 
covered with boards, or with a network of bark ropes on 
which is laid grass and banana leaves ; but " well-to-do " 
Swahili people have begun to use the more comfortable 
Hindoo bedsteads. One thing is sure : neither shoemakers, 
tailors, nor dressmakers would be able to make a living 
among these people, as they use very little covering, ex- 
cept, perhaps, the " better class." The common Swahili 
women only wear a little loin cloth and a cheap, brightly 
colored piece of calico, which they throw over their 
shoulders in much the same way as the East Indian 
women. The children, both boys and girls, run around 
naked during the first six or eight years, except in the 

246 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

cities, where they are now compelled to wear some kind 
of covering. 

The men out in the country districts wear hardly any- 
thing at all except a little loin cloth, but in the cities they 
have adopted the Indian fashion of wearing muslin trou- 
sers, looking much like pointed pyjamas, or else long night- 
shirts, buttoned tightly around the neck and running down 
as far as the ankles. If they can afford it they have these 
shirts most beautifully embroidered. It is a strange-look- 
ing scene to watch a couple of hundred men in these long 
" nightshirts " coming out of a Mohammedan mosque, for 
instance, but I have heard the men say — and I believe it — 
that it is a most comfortable kind of clothing in a hot 
climate. 

\ On my way out to British East Africa the first time, 
several of our fellow-passengers had described the Swahili 
to me as such a bad people that, at the time, I could hardly 
believe it possible. One of them, who had spent many 
years in East Africa, said : " You will find the Swahili a 
people composed mostly of lazy, lying thieves." I thought 
this statement terrible, but now, after many months' ex- 
perience among them, I regret to say that it is not very 
much exaggerated, if at all. In the first place, as Moham- 
medans, they do not consider it at all wrong to lie to all not 
Mohammedans ; and in the second place they do not seem to 
care even if they lie to their " own brethren." As to steal- 
ing, they seem to think, like the Greeks of old, that it is " all 
right " to do so as long as they are not caught. According 
to my experience, they are by far the most corrupt as well 
as the laziest of all the lazy inhabitants of British East 
Africa; for if the Swahili has his own way he will do 

247 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

nothing but eat and sleep, and, besides that, get his " fill " 
of " tembo," the Swahili name for the native palm wine, 
which is very intoxicating. 

This palm wine is extracted in a most ingenious man- 
ner from the flower stalks of the cocoanut tree in the fol- 
lowing way: As soon as a cocoanut tree is about to burst 
out with blossoms, they cut off the top of the flower stalk, 
and, with the help of the fibers, gourds are tied over the 
stalk and so fixed that the juice, which otherwise would 
produce the cocoanut, is forced to run into the gourds. 
These are then emptied as soon as they are full. A strong 
tree with several flower stalks will probably produce about 
two or three quarts a day. The contents of the gourds, 
when filled with this delicious, sweet sap, are then put 
away to ferment in the heat, and thus a very strong in- 
toxicant is prepared. The beverage is exceedingly cheap, 
and, alas ! only too much used by the natives. 

The Swahilis are agriculturists, fishermen, common 
laborers, and caravan porters; they also raise poultry, 
partly for their own use and partly for trading purposes; 
but very few of them have energy and pluck enough to 
become merchants of any importance, like the Arabs and 
Hindoos. 

When the young man wants to marry he has to buy 
his bride from her parents for sums ranging from five to 
one hundred dollars, according to her beauty and " station 
in life." A man is allowed to keep several wives, if he can 
afford to do so, for the government does not interfere in 
this respect, as the Mohammedan religion allows its fol- 
lowers to live in polygamy. It must be said, however, that 
plural marriages among the Swahili are not as common 

248 




Typical Swahili House on the Coast. 




Hut of the Njamus-Nasai near Bakingo. 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

to-day as they used to be, and where missionary influence 
is predominant they are disappearing altogether. 

The Swahili young man can, if he has not all the ready 
cash necessary for buying his bride, do so on the " install- 
ment plan," if her father thinks that he is reliable enough 
to pay his debts. One of the gun bearers I employed had 
thus bought his wife, still owing his father-in-law seventy- 
five rupees, or twenty-five dollars. As he had not paid this 
at the stated time, the father-in-law went to Nairobi and 
took his daughter away in spite of her tears and protests, 
but he was honest enough to deposit the money, already 
paid for her, with the firm which had secured the gun 
bearer for me. 

Farther back from the coast lives the Wanika tribe, 
which cultivates the ground to a certain extent, keeps 
herds of sheep and goats, and has a great many chickens. 
These people are also very fond of hunting, and they are 
said to be quite successful in killing even big game with 
bows and arrows. They live in grass huts in small com- 
munities, only two or three families building together, and 
when they are tired of one place, they simply pull up their 
stakes and move to another. Most of the men of this 
race go entirely naked, and the women wear nothing but 
a small, shirtlike loin cloth of either muslin, or skin, 
whereas the children run around in their ** Adamitic " 
costumes. 

Higher up the Uganda Railroad, after the great unin- 
habited Taru Desert has been crossed, live, on both sides 
of the line, the Wateita people, who are both herdsmen 
and agriculturists. In former days these people were quite 
wealthy; but, partly owing to the raids of the warlike 

249 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Masai, and perhaps chiefly as a result of the terrible rind- 
erpest, which took away thousands upon thousands of 
their cattle, and caused almost whole villages to die from 
starvation, they have now been reduced to comparative 
poverty. The Wateita people resemble very much the 
Wanika, but all their houses or huts are perfectly round, 
built of sticks and grass, and always clustered picturesquely 
together on the hilltops, where, in warlike times, it was 
more easy for them to defend themselves against their 
enemies. They belong to the great Bantu race, and live, 
very much like the inhabitants of the rest of the country, 
in polygamy, and in gross ignorance and superstition. 

Northeast of the railroad, and farther inland, the trav- 
eler meets the industrious and courageous Wakamba 
people, who often successfully withstood the savage at- 
tacks of the Masai. The men of this tribe frequently used 
to file their teeth into sharp points, to appeal better to the 
weaker sex, but this makes them look very ugly and wild. 
Their chief weapon is a long swordlike knife, and bows 
and arrows, which latter they understand how to dip in a 
skillfully prepared and most deadly vegetable poison. Any 
man or beast even slightly scratched by one of these 
arrows will die in a very short time, as there is said to 
exist no means as yet discovered to neutralize the fatal 
effect of this poison. 

The women are very lightly dressed, and they do not 
seem to wear any cloth at all, this being replaced by pieces 
of goat skin, which they understand how to make as 
soft as kid gloves. Of these skins they wear only two 
pieces ; the one serves as a loin cloth, and the other is tied 
over the shoulder. The Wakamba are agriculturists, and 

250 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

have a good many cattle and fowls. They make good 
workmen, and some of the best caravan porters we had 
belonged to this tribe. 

Following the railroad northwest of Nairobi the Ki- 
kuju territory begins, and, according to the statement 
of a gentleman who had been in this country many years, 
the splendid Kikuju race is probably destined to become 
predominating in the interior of British East Africa; for 
they are a great deal more industrious, clever and enter- 
prising than any of the tribes of which I have spoken. 

The Kikujus also live in round houses with thatched 
roofs, but the under part of these are made of solid boards 
of wood, generally cut from the cedar, which here grows 
in great abundance. The roof projects away out from the 
walls, and so far down that a tall man has hard work to 
crawl into his hut, the sides of which, in this way, are well 
protected against both rain and sun. The roof is sup- 
ported by wooden poles, which run in double rows, cross- 
ing each other in such a way as to form a square in the 
middle, under which is the open fireplace. On each side of 
the entrance these poles divide the hut into three parts; 
the middle, and larger one, is taken up by the rude bed 
made of a big, slanting board, supported by poles about 
three feet from the ground ; the room nearest the entrance 
is used as a storeroom for cooking pots, milk gourds, and 
so forth, whereas the other compartments contain the 
small, or sick, sheep and goats at night. 

The Kikujus also live in polygamy. We heard of one 
man, a great chief, who had over one hundred wives. 
Each wife has her own house, but the first wife is the 
" boss " of the others. The male children are, as a rule, 

2^1 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

kept in the father's hut; but the girls Hve with their re- 
spective mothers. It is a strange thing that if a " well-to- 
do " man has only one wife, she will give him no rest until 
he has taken at least one more. This for the selfish reason 
that as long as she is the only wife she has to do all the 
work alone, as her husband could not keep any female 
servants. But if the man has two or more wives the work 
is divided among them, and the old " mamma " has the 
upper hand over the rest. The men themselves do not, as 
a rule, care to work in gardens or to carry wood and 
water, or milk the cows, but they herd the cattle, work as 
porters, and like to fight. 

The chief arms of the Kikuju are a splendid knifelike 
sword called " panga," his knob stick, long spear, and his 
bow with poisoned arrows. The knob stick is one single 
piece of hard wood, cut thin at one end and then gradually 
increasing in size until it measures from ten to fifteen 
inches in circumference at the club end. These heavy 
weapons are most powerful, and men have told me that 
they have killed both human enemies and dangerous ani- 
mals, such as leopards and even lions, with a single blow 
of the deadly knob stick. They are also experts in using 
their long, heavy spears, and are very clever with their 
bows. They secure the poison for the arrows by boiling 
the leaves and young shoots of a certain tree for a long 
time and then dip the arrows in the thick sediment. The 
fruit of this tree is perfectly delicious, and, strange to say, 
absolutely harmless to eat, being enjoyed greatly by both 
men and elephants. It resembles a small plum and is, 
when ripe, very juicy and of a rich purple color. 

From time immemorial the Kikuju race, which in- 

252 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

habits the highlands in the center of the Protectorate, has 
had frequent wars with the Masai tribe of the plains. 
Sometimes the Masai would be victorious, and carry away 
a great many cattle, sheep, and women from the Kikuju, 
but at other times they would be beaten, and the Kikujus 
would make up their former loss from the large Masai 
possessions. But of late these race wars and raids have, 
through the influence of the British government, fortu- 
nately entirely stopped. 

The Kikuju people, both men and women, are very 
fond of wearing all sorts of ornaments in their ears. They 
cut the lobe of the ear, when the child is young, and insert 
heavy rings, or even stones, for the purpose of extending 
the lobe, until it finally widens so much that some of them 
succeed in putting in rings of wood or ivory the diameter 
of which is anywhere from six to eight inches. Besides 
this they make holes in the upper part of the ear and insert 
there pieces of wood or bamboo in such a way that these 
sticks very much resemble the ribs of an open fan. Both 
men and women wear bracelets of brass or iron wire, as 
well as necklaces of the same kind of material, and strings 
of glass beads. Anything may serve as a necklace for the 
Kikuju. Some, for instance, make them by putting on 
a string, or sinew of an animal, alternately the round 
roots of a little tree, and the hollow bones of birds, cut 
into equal lengths. Other ornaments are made of nuts 
and fruit pits, which are strung together in the same 
manner. 

As loin ornaments the men wear a heavy brass wire 
from which numerous little iron or brass chains, varying 
from three to six inches in length, hang down. The 
18. 253 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

women of " society " wear as similar decorations wide 
bead girdles, generally finished off by a string of shells. 
A stylish Kikuju girl is not even satisfied with all these 
things, for she wears, besides the just-mentioned orna- 
ments, a number of diadems of beads around her head, 
heavy brass wire wound around the legs just below the 
knees, and, as long as she is unmarried, ankle rings of 
either brass or iron, on which again are strung numbers 
of heavy smaller rings, so that a "smart " Kikuju 
" society " woman — for such these are — wears ornaments 
of a total weight of from five to eight pounds, if not more. 

The Kikuju houses are just about as " well furnished " 
as those of the previously mentioned tribes, the only addi- 
tion being small wooden stools on three legs, cut out in 
one piece from the trunk of a cedar tree. A young Kikuju 
man has to buy his bride for the price of so many oxen, 
sheep and goats, ranging in value from five to one hun- 
dred and fifty dollars, according to her "beauty," strength, 
and grade of " society." The girl herself is generally not 
even asked whether or not she likes the man to whom she 
is going to be married. There have been many examples 
of liberty-loving Kikuju women killing themselves rather 
than become the wives of men they disliked. 

Not very long ago a young Kikuju girl was sold by 
her father to a horrible old chief who already had over 
forty wives. She objected to this marriage, being already 
in love with a young but poor man, who for some time 
served in our caravan, but her objection was of no avail. 
Finally, when she heard that the old chief had already 
paid her price in live stock and was now coming to take 
her home by force, she ran away to the mission station in 

254 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

Kijabe and implored the aid of the missionaries to save 
her from the brutal chief. 

One day the parents succeeded in kidnaping their 
daughter from the mission station. Suddenly heartrend- 
ing cries were heard from the bushes not far away, and 
running there one of the lady missionaries saw how the 
girl was being mercilessly beaten by her cruel parents and 
others, who tried to take her away by force. Instantly this 
courageous young American girl rushed at the assailants, 
grabbed the victim, and, tearing her away from the kid- 
napers, brought her back to the mission house, where she 
then was closely guarded. 

The rascally old chief had, however, made up his mind 
to get the girl at any cost. He therefore applied to Nairobi 
for aid, and, strangely enough, the government supported 
him, and ordered the girl to be delivered to the chief, as he 
had already paid for her according to the law of his tribe. 
The missionaries now interviewed both the father of the 
girl and the old chief, and through their influence it was 
arranged that the father should return the cattle to the 
chief, who promised to leave the girl alone. In the mean- 
time the young lover had been working hard so as to be 
able to buy his bride, and he succeeded finally with the 
help of others in bringing the required number of cattle 
and sheep to her father, after which the happy couple were 
married according to Kikuju rites. 

Farther up along the line, in the Rift Valley, and on 
the Laikipia Plateau, live the Masai, who are perhaps the 
most intelligent and courageous people of East Africa, 
although extremely lazy and insolent. There has been a 
great deal of speculation as to the origin of this tribe, 

255 



THE BIG GAME OE AFRICA 

which a great many people have held to be a mixture of 
Negro and Ethiopian, but recent discoveries, however, 
have led to the almost certain conclusion that they belong 
to the Semitic race. Captain Merker, who has studied the 
Masai as has no one else, is of the opinion that they have 
the same origin as the Hebrew race of herdsmen, from 
whom the Masai have inherited a great many customs and 
ceremonies still in vogue. Some of the Masai men we met 
really made us think of the old patriarchs; especially a 
couple of chiefs, who had such pronounced Hebraic fea- 
tures that it was not difficult to believe that the Masai and 
the Israelites had sprung from a common ancestry. 
Among other things that seem to prove this, is the fact 
that the Masai, although having lived for centuries among 
idolatrous and polytheistic peoples, still adhere strictly to 
the monotheistic belief ; further, they make a kind of aton- 
ing sacrifice, and all of their men above a certain age are 
circumcised in the same manner as the Jews. 

^ The Masai tribe appear to be the most independent and 
liberty-loving of all African peoples. A young warrior 
would rather be killed than work as a slave, or even be 
induced to carry burdens as a caravan porter. He will 
serve as a herdsman, being an excellent and courageous 
defender of the cattle against all kinds of wild animals; 
and when intrusted with modern arms he certainly makes 
a splendid soldier. This tribe has from time immemorial 
been accustomed to be the rulers of East Central Africa, 
where it held all the other tribes in subjection — only the 
Kikujus being able at times to defend themselves with 
success against the Masai raiders. Enormous herds of fine 
cattle composed the riches of this tribe, but the terrible 

256 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

rinderpest killed off many thousands of their stock, so that 
to-day the tribe is not nearly as wealthy as it used to be. 
In former days they simply took from neighboring tribes, 
after bloody fights, what they wanted, but to-day they do 
not dare to attempt any more raidings, as they are well 
aware of the authority of the white man with his destruc- 
tive firearms. 

The Masai generally live in villages composed of a 
great number of huts, most of which are built closely to- 
gether, and form either an oval or a circle. The backs of 
the huts are turned outward, and so form a wall, which is 
often strengthened and perfected by an almost impene- 
trable hedge of thorns. This wall is a safeguard against 
intruders of all kinds. The doors, or rather openings, of 
the houses are on the inside, facing each other, and the 
houses themselves are built of branches of trees and twigs 
which have been put together like a kind of open basket- 
work. When this is done the whole hut is coated over 
with layers of cow-dung mixed with clay, which makes it 
almost absolutely fire-and-wind proof. Most of the houses 
have no openings whatever besides the " door," so that 
almost all the smoke from the fire remains in the hut, caus- 
ing different troubles to the eyes of the occupants. This 
is also the case with all the other tribes in East Africa. 

The Masai do not cultivate the ground, but live almost 
exclusively from the products of their cattle, sheep and 
goats. They are very fond of good meat and fresh milk. 
This latter is poured into gourds which are cleaned out 
with a solution of charcoal, cows' urine and water, making 
the milk brought in an ordinary Masai gourd almost un- 
drinkable for a white man. 

257 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

rThe Masai women have to do all the work there is to 
be done, except herding the cattle and fighting the foe, 
whereas the older men generally stay at home to eat, 
smoke, and gamble. The youngsters when about eight- 
een years old are, with certain strange ceremonies, 
taken into the " soldier class " and serve as warriors 
or, as they call themselves. El Moran. These young 
men enjoy all sorts of privileges; almost naked, and 
tattooed with the traditional " war paint," these fellows 
run in batches from village to village, where they are re- 
ceived with open arms and allowed to indulge in all sorts 
of vice, and after a few days' feasting they receive as a 
special " peace offering " a fatted young bull or a couple 
of sheep. These they drive away to some far-off cave or 
other secluded place, but always near water, where they 
kill the animals, and eat their fill of the fresh meat. It 
was a former custom that when the young men were cir- 
cumcised and became El Moran — which ceremony takes 
place about every four years — the new warriors should 
get into a fight with men of other tribes, and dip their 
spears in human blood, but to-day, of course, this is not 
tolerated by the British or German governments. 

Even the Masai practice polygamy. Some of the 
chiefs have over fifty wives, and old " King " Lenana 
probably more than a hundred. The Masai women are, as 
among other tribes, simply bought from their fathers to 
become their husbands' wives, whether they like it or not. 
They adorn themselves very much like their Kikuju 
sisters, except that those who can afford it have an extra 
leg ornament of brass wire wound all the way from the 
knee down to the ankle in one piece. They also wear very 

258 




A Young Wandeiuii'.h. Ri ady to Shoot His Poisoned Arrow. 






dh 



s^*Ol 













J:_- 



Masai El-Moran Warriors. 
Two old chiefs are standing on the right. 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

large necklaces made of the same kind of wire, which is 
wound in ever-expanding circles until they project fully 
eight inches from the neck, looking very much like a wide 
shining collar. 

The Masai use for protection and warfare almost ex- 
clusively their powerful spears, which they understand 
how to handle with great strength and skill. There is 
said to exist a secret organization among the different 
Masai tribes, the members of which pay homage to their 
old " king," Lenana. I have heard people who have lived 
among the Masai for many years say that one word from 
him would bring together thousands of these courageous 
young El Moran, who would willingly stake their lives in 
carrying out their chief's command. Many believe that 
with the present state of affairs in East Africa, should all 
the cunning and powerful Masai tribes rise simultaneously, 
they would probably be able to kill off every white person 
and all the government native soldiers in the Protectorate 
within twenty-four hours ! 

The Wanderobos are a wild jungle people, living in 
the forests of the middle and northern parts of the Pro- 
tectorate. They are looked down upon by the Swahili, 
Kikuju, and Masai as " washenzi," or wild bush-people, 
which name they indeed deserve, for they have no chief, 
no tribal organization, and do not even live in villages. 
They are nomads, but without cattle or sheep, wandering 
around a great deal from place to place, staying where 
they happen to be able to kill some large animal, which 
they devour until nothing is left of the carcass even to 
attract the hyena, and then they move away again. These 
people are as near to " primitive man " as any race living, 

259 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

and yet, in spite of their wild life and habits, they possess 
a good deal of intelligence, and are the very best big-game 
trackers and hunters in East Africa. Among other inter- 
esting people in this Protectorate are the Galla, Lumbwa, 
Kavirondo, Nandi, Mbe, and other tribes, which are all 
more or less like the already mentioned natives. 

Of these latter tribes, the Kavirondo is, in a commer- 
cial way, the most promising, for they are splendid agri- 
culturists, and perhaps on the whole the hardest-working 
natives in British East Africa. They live all around the 
extreme western part of Victoria Nyanza, where the large 
Kavirondo Bay is almost in the center of their country. 
Strangely enough, it is not, as is usual, the men, but the 
women of the Kavirondo tribe who go around absolutely 
nude, even without the little loin cloth that otherwise the 
most scantily dressed native woman carries. Until the 
middle of 1909 one could see scores of these women, 
young and old, coming right down to the railroad stations, 
and there gazing at the foreigners as they passed, evi- 
dently without the slightest feeling of embarrassment, 
even if the tourist wanted to photograph them. Partly 
owing, I believe, to one of Mr. Roosevelt's expressions 
about the impropriety of this custom, they have now been 
forbidden to come up to the railroad stations, at least with- 
out some kind of covering. 

When said that the women generally go around abso- 
lutely naked, it should be mentioned that the older ones 
carry a funny kind of " tail " of animals' hair, which 
hangs down from the center of the back and is held fast 
by a string around the waist. It is rather surprising to 
hear in connection with the strange fashions of the Kavi- 

260 



j 



THE NATIVES OF BRITISH EAST AFRICA 

rondo women that they are said to be the most chaste of 
all the native women of East Africa. They are now be- 
ginning, httle by little, to put some clothing on. This tribe 
occupies the most fertile soil in the whole of the Protec- 
torate ; and I believe that in the near future the Kavirondo 
will make long strides in their upward march, as the men 
already begin to cultivate a taste for better clothing, fur- 
niture and houses, and are often anxious to be taught in 
the various mission schools. It is from this country that 
a great deal of wild coffee of good quality is secured, as 
well as a superior kind of ground nuts and the semsem oil 
seed. The Kavirondo are still very superstitious, and 
their " witch doctors " and " medicine men " do a flourish- 
ing business among the ignorant savages. 



CHAPTER XVI 

MISSIONARIES, SETTLERS, AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

Intelligent and self-sacrificing men and women who 
go out to live and work as missionaries among such tribes 
as those partly described in the previous chapter, certainly 
deserve a great deal of credit and commendation. For 
the people of East Africa are, without exception, in their 
native state revoltingly dirty, ignorant, superstitious, and 
cruel. At the same time they seem to be possessed of a 
great amount of false pride, one tribe thinking itself far 
superior not only to the other tribes of the country but 
also to the white man. Love, as we understand it, and 
tender compassion they seem not to know at all. Not 
only do they hate their enemies, which generally include 
all other tribes than theirs, but they are exceedingly cruel 
even to the people of their own household, often throwing 
out the old and sick people into the jungle to be devoured 
by carnivorous beasts. 

One of the numerous superstitions of the natives is 
that if a person dies in a hut, this will bring great misfor- 
tune and grief to the other inhabitants. Therefore, as 
soon as they think that a member of the household is so 
sick that he or she is liable to die they carry the sick one 
out and often even tie him in the thorn bush a few hundred 
yards away from the village, so that he may be killed and 

262 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

eaten by lions, leopards, and hyenas. I know of one in- 
stance where an old woman was thus thrown out by her 
own son. The poor old soul had strength enough to free 
herself and crawl out of the bush, from whence she dragged 
herself to a neighboring village, where a second son of hers 
lived. As soon as this young brute saw the condition of 
his mother he, instead of trying to care for her, took a 
couple of other young men with him and dragged the 
unfortunate old woman out into the bush outside their 
village, where they mercilessly left her to the wild beasts. 
Again liberating herself, and exerting her utmost efforts, 
she succeeded in crawling to a nearby mission station, 
where she was most kindly received and where the mis- 
sionaries built a special little hut for her near their own 
house. Imagine their joy and surprise when the old 
woman a few days later had recovered sufficiently to be 
able to be around ! She subsequently became a Christian, 
and was still alive when I left Africa in February, 1910. 

The position of woman in Africa is, as in almost all 
heathen countries, most deplorable. She has no rights 
whatsoever. She does not inherit with her brothers, and 
when a man dies who has a great deal of property and, 
therefore, a good many wives, these are inherited, with 
the rest of his belongings, by his sons if he has any, or 
else by the nearest male relative. A great deal of sickness 
and many curable diseases play great havoc among the 
tribes, where a little bit of care and instruction in the 
very rudiments of hygiene would improve their conditions 
greatly. Therefore, the whole of East Africa is in great 
need of missionary work, which should not only be evan- 
gelistic but also medical and industrial. 

263 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

It is therefore a deplorable fact that many " globe 
trotters " and settlers in heathen lands often criticise and 
condemn foreign missions. Not only do they sneer at 
certain individual missionaries for their supposed ineffi- 
ciency, ignorance, bigotry, and selfishness, but they also 
condemn mission work as a whole, maintaining that com- 
paratively very little good is accomplished by these 
agencies, considering the great amount of money spent 
for mission work. They often say that not only certain 
unwise actions of the missionary are objectionable, but 
that even his very presence in the foreign fields is unnec- 
essary, and that he only irritates the masses and provokes 
them to hostility toward the white merchant and his gov- 
ernment. Further, it is asserted by the opponents of 
mission work that the missionary's influence tends to 
make the natives lazy, dishonest, and disrespectful toward 
their white masters. 

The main reason why missionary work is so severely 
criticised by a great many travelers and settlers lies in 
the indifference they have toward the very Lord of mis- 
sions Himself, and the missionary's Bible, which they 
dislike because it tells the truth about men and condemns 
corruption and sin. A number of years ago an old Afri- 
can queen had heard of mirrors, and believing that she 
was the most beautiful woman of her tribe, she ordered 
one of these strange things to be sent to her " palace." 
A mirror was bought and taken to the queen. But when 
she looked into it and beheld her frightful features, she 
became so infuriated that she not only threw the mirror 
on a stone and broke it, but also forbade, by death penalty, 
anyone in her kingdom to own a mirror. One single 

264 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIAL^ 

glance into the glass had convinced her of the wrong esti- 
mation of her beauty, and not wanting to be shown her 
true appearance she hated and destroyed the looking-glass. 

It is a sad but well-known fact that many white settlers 
and travelers in heathen countries throw off all moral re- 
straint, and live a life among the natives which is wholly 
unworthy of a civilized man, not to speak of a professing 
Christian. The missionaries, seeing this and hearing of 
it from the people among whom they work, necessarily 
have to reprove such people for their doings, and de- 
nounce them for the very sake of civilization and Chris- 
tianity. Thus it is that unprincipled travelers and settlers 
conflict with missionaries and show the spirit of malice 
toward their work. 

In the different heathen countries where it has been 
my privilege to travel — for instance, in India, Burma, 
China, Japan, Africa, and other places — I have always 
found the same thing. People who live questionable lives, 
and who do not care to represent any higher ideals, always 
condemn missionaries, just as the habitual drunkard and 
saloon-keeper hate temperance work. Yet, wherever I 
have found officials and settlers who were real gentlemen, 
and who made a point of setting a high example for the 
natives, they all highly respect the missionary and his 
work. The more such people have studied these difficult 
problems in the various heathen countries, the more they 
have learned to appreciate the true missionary and his 
unselfish work. Many wonderful testimonials to this 
effect have been publicly given by eminent American and 
British officials, as well as by heathen kings and prominent 
statesmen. To quote only a few well-known statements : 

265 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

The late President William McKinley once publicly 
said in Carnegie Hall, among other things : 

" I am glad of the opportunity to offer without stint 
my tribute of praise and respect to the missionary effort, 
which has wrought such wonderful triumphs for civili- 
zation. Th^ story of Christian missions is one of thrill- 
ing interest and mai velous results . . . The noble, self- 
effacing, willing ministers of peace and good will should 
be classed with the world's heroes. . . . Who can esti- 
mate their value to the progress of nations ? Their contri- 
bution to the onward and upward march of humanity is 
beyond all calculation. They have inculcated industry 
and taught various trades. They have promoted concords 
and unity, and brought races and nations closer together. 
They have made men better. They have increased the 
regard for home; have strengthened the sacred ties of 
family; have made the community well ordered and their 
work has been a potent influence in the development of 
law and the establishment of government." 

The Hon. Theodore Roosevelt, one of the greatest 
Presidents this country ever had, says: 

" It was once my privilege to see, close by, the mission 
work on Indian reservations in the West. I became so in- 
terested in it that I traveled all over the reservation to see 
what was being done, especially by the missionaries, be- 
cause it needed no time at all to see that the great factors 
in the uplifting of the Indians were the men who were 
teaching them to be Christian citizens. When I came 
back I wished it had been in my power to convey my ex- 
periences to these people — very often well-meaning people 
— who speak about the inefficiency of foreign missions. I 
think if they could have realized but the tenth part of the 

266 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

work that had been done, they would understand that no 
more practical work, no more productive of fruit for civ- 
ilization, could exist than the work being carried on by 
the men and women who give their lives to preaching the 
Gospel of Christ to mankind." 

Colonel Denby, for a number of years the United 

States Minister to China, says: 

" I have made a study of mission work in China for 
years. I took a man-of-war and visited almost every port 
in the Empire. At each one of the places I visited and 
inspected every mission station. They are all doing good 
work; they merit all the support that philanthropy can 
give them. I do not stint my commendation nor halt nor 
stammer about work that ought to be done at home instead 
of abroad. I make no comparisons. I unqualifiedly and in 
the strongest language that tongue can utter give to these 
men and women who are living and dying in China and in 
the Far East my full and unadulterated commendation. 
My doctrine is to tell, if I can, the simple truth about them, 
and when that is known, the caviling, the depreciation, 
and sneering which too often accompany comments on 
missionary work will disappear, they will stand before 
the world as they ought to stand, as benefactors of the 
people among whom their lives are spent, and the fore- 
runners of the commerce of the world." 

The Honorable John W. Foster, once Secretary of 
State, and successively Minister to Mexico, Russia, and 
Spain, who was asked by the Emperor of China to be 
Counselor of his Empire in making a treaty with Japan, 
says : 

*• My observation is that the mass of people in China 
do not object to missionaries . . . China stands in 

267 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

great need of Christianity. The teaching of Confucius, 
among the wisest of non-Christian philosophers, has had 
unhmited sway for twenty-five centuries ; and this highest 
type of pagan ethics has produced a people the most su- 
perstitious, and a government the most corrupt and ineffi- 
cient. Confucianism must be pronounced a failure. The 
hope of this people and its government is in Christianity." 

General Lew Wallace, the celebrated author of Ben- 
Hur, formerly United States Minister to Turkey, testifies : 

" When I went to Turkey I was prejudiced against 
missionaries, but my views of them and their work have 
completely changed. I found them to be an admirable 
body of men, doing a wonderful educational and civiliz- 
ing work outside of their strictly religious work." 

Lord John Lawrence, perhaps the greatest of all Eng- 
lish Viceroys, affirms : 

" Notwithstanding all that the English people have 
done to benefit India, the missionaries have done more 
than all other agencies combined." 

At a large public meeting in Calcutta, Sir Augustus 
Rivers Thompson, then Lieutenant-Governor of Bengal, 
uttered these words : 

" In my judgment Christian missionaries have done 
more real and lasting good to the people of India than all 
other agencies combined. They have been the salt of the 
country and the true savior of the Empire." 

General Sir Charles Warren, at the time Governor of 
Natal, who was sent on a special mission of pacification 
to Zululand and Bechuanaland, reported : 

268 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

" For the preservation of peace between the colonists 
and the natives, one missionary is worth more than a 
whole battahon of soldiers." 

Sometime ago the British Consul at Mozambique de- 
livered an address in Glasgow in which he, among other 
things, said: 

" I must say that my ten years in Africa have con- 
vinced me that mission work is one of the most powerful 
and useful instruments we possess for the pacification of 
the country and suppression of the slave trade." 

The great Chinese Statesman, the late Li Hung 
Chang, when he visited this country in 1906, said: 

" The missionaries have not sought for pecuniary 
gains at the hands of our people. They have not been 
secret emissaries and diplomatic schemers. Their labors 
have no political significance, and the last, not the least, if 
I may be permitted to add, they have not interfered with, 
or usurped, the rights of the territorial authorities." 

The lamented Marquis Ito, the greatest statesman 
Japan ever had, was not ashamed to say : 

*' Japan's progress and development are largely due to 
the influence of missionaries, exerted in the right direc- 
tions, when Japan was first studying the outer world." 

His Majesty Shulalongkorn, King of Siam, one of the 
most enlightened and progressive monarchs of the East, 
being a warm friend and supporter of missions in his 
kingdom, admits: 

19 269 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

" American missionaries have done more to advance 
the welfare of my country and my people than any other 
foreign influence." 

It would be very easy for me to print many more tes- 
timonials of the same character from a great many other 
prominent statesmen and governors, but this may suffice to 
confirm my assertion that high-minded and clear-sighted 
men the world over understand and appreciate the great 
value of missionary work, without which our own country, 
as well as Europe, would to-day still be worshiping idols 
and graven images, as our forefathers did. 

On the other hand, I must frankly admit that there 
are a good many missionaries who, indeed, are inefficient, 
selfish, ignorant, and lazy. Such men would probably do 
better as tailors, shoemakers, clerks, and teachers in their 
respective home lands; and I dare say that such people 
have many times unnecessarily provoked both white men 
and natives ; they have been a hindrance to the very cause 
they were sent out to further. The different missionary , 
societies know and deplore this very much indeed. But 
to judge from such missionaries, and to condemn the great 
body of noble men and women whose only aim in life is to 
elevate, help, and advance the conditions of native tribes 
the world over, is just as unreasonable and absurd as to 
say that the Americans are no good, that they are drunk- 
ards, crooks, and thieves, because there are some such 
people in our great land! 

As to the influence of mission work among the tribes 
of Central Africa, may I here mention what, for instance, 
Sir Harry Johnston, a former Commissioner to East 

270 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

Africa and Uganda, said in his report to the home gov- 
ernment : 

" All the difference between the Uganda of 1900 and 
the bloody, harassed, and barbarous days of King Mtesa 
and his son, Mwaggo, is really extraordinary, and the 
larger share in this improvement is undoubtedly due to 
the teaching of the missionaries. I do honestly consider 
that the work of the great missions in the Uganda Protec- 
torate has achieved most satisfactory results. It cannot 
be said that the natives of the Uganda Protectorate have 
been spoiled by Christianity; they have been greatly im- 
proved, and have, in the adoption of this religion, lost 
neither manliness nor straightforwardness." 

When this prominent colonizer once received a depu- 
tation from the Basoga people, as he passed through 
their country, he closed his address to them with these 
words : 

" Long ago we English were like the Kavirondo (a 
people which are much despised by the more intelligent 
and civilized Basoga), and we wore no clothes and 
smeared our bodies with paint, but when we learned 
Christianity from the Romans, we changed and became 
great. We want you to learn Christianity, and to follow 
in our steps, and you, too, will be great." 

In regard to the settlers of British East Africa, I 
regret to say that many of them are of an inferior type of 
people, whose general conduct is very offensive to decent 
white men and a reproach not only to Christianity, but also 
to civilization in the eyes of the heathen and Moham- 
medan. Many of them will not hesitate to maltreat the 

271 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

natives, to live openly in the most licentious manner, so 
much so that in some instances they have, through their 
immoral conduct, incensed the natives to riot and murder 
as a retaliation. That such men are the avowed enemies 
of missionaries and everything- connected with Chris- 
tianity, no one can wonder. On the other hand, it must 
be also acknowledged that there are a good many settlers 
in East Africa who are of an entirely different type, and 
whose very presence and conduct are a blessing to the land. 
All of those that it was my privilege to meet of this latter 
class had nothing but unstinted praise for the missionary 
efforts, and they cheerfully acknowledged the great bene- 
fit the country derived from their presence and labors. 

I am also happy to say that the great number of gov- 
ernment officials with whom I came in contact seemed to 
belong to the last-named class. They were of that high- 
minded, hard-working and efficient kind which reflects 
credit and honor upon the great government which em- 
ploys them. They were greatly respected among both 
settlers and natives, and their work highly appreciated 
by the missionaries. These government officials, again, 
were of one accord in commending the labor of the mis- 
sionaries, and willingly acknowledged how great a part 
they play in the pacification and general uplifting of the 
country. 

Among these splendid British officials I may mention 
H. M. Commissioner, Mr. C. Ainsworth of the Kisumu 
Province, the most populous district of British East Africa, 
who, with his American wife, resides at Port Florence, 
on the shores of Victoria Nyanza, and whose guest I had 
the pleasure of being during the first two days of this 

272 



MISSIONARIES AND GOVERNMENT OFFICIALS 

year. Other men of the same type are the District Com- 
missioners, Messrs. H. B. Partington of the Lumbwa 
District, and C. Colher of the Laikipia-Masai Reserve, 
who are certainly two of the ablest men in British East 
Africa. With these last-named three officials I have had 
several long conversations about the work of mission- 
aries, and they have all agreed in that regard that the 
missionaries in their respective districts are doing a splen- 
did work for the betterment and enlightening of the 
people. 

Four years elapsed between my first and last visit to 
Africa. I must say, for the sake of truth and for the en- 
couragement of all well-wishers of missionary enterprise, 
that I noticed a very marked improvement in the behavior 
and appearance of the natives among whom faithful and 
efficient missionaries have been laboring. It is often said 
by the critics that native converts, generally called " mis- 
sion boys," are inferior to those who still remain heathen, 
as if to say that the influence of Christianity upon these 
natives would have a bad efifect. I want to say here in 
explanation of this that a great many young heathen, who 
have understood the advantage of the teachings of mission 
schools, go to these schools for a few terms and study 
enough to learn to read and write and to be trained a 
little in domestic sciences. When this is accomplished 
they leave the mission, in many cases without ever having 
accepted Christianity. They are then generally called 
" mission boys," and by many people supposed to be native 
converts. 

In many instances some of these " mission boys " are 
certainly greater rascals than the absolutely ignorant 

k273 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

heathen, for they have come into touch with civiHzation 
enough to be more up to all sorts of tricks than the wild 
jungle people; but to blame missionaries for this is cer- 
tainly most unreasonable. During my three different 
expeditions to East Africa I had a good many " mission 
boys " in my caravan. Some of these had never been 
converted, not even professedly so, and behaved in such a 
way that they had to be dismissed from the service. 
Others, who had been recommended to me by the mission- 
aries as Christian converts, certainly showed a wonderful 
difference in character and behavior, and to one or two 
of them I felt that I could intrust anything I had on earth, 
sure that they would not defraud me of a penny's worth. 

In my opinion the only hope for Africa lies in the thor- 
ough evangelization of its people by faithful, self-sacri- 
ficing missionaries, who do not only live and teach a 
practical gospel, but also are intelligent enough to train 
the negro along industrial lines, and to teach him to better 
himself commercially, morally, socially, and religiously, 
until every one of the savage tribes of the Dark Continent 
has learned to know Him, who is indeed the Light of the 
World. 



CHAPTER XVII 

HINTS ON PHOTOGRAPHY AND THE PRESERVING 
OF TROPHIES 

Nothing is more interesting than to bring home a 
number of good photographs after an extended hunting 
trip, wherever it may have been. Not only is the sportsman 
thus enabled to show relatives and friends photographs 
of the wild animals, their haunts, savage people, and the 
different scenes of the countries visited, but he also has a 
chance of living his adventures over again as he looks 
upon his pictures. And again, while the big-game pict- 
ures and photographs of wild people and scenery are 
interesting to look upon, there are also all kinds of pictures 
of camp life and little every-day occurrences in the jungle. 
These things make the country seem more real, particu- 
larly to those who have not had the privilege of visiting 
the same. 

Wild animal photography and hunting could and 
should go hand in hand, for without the first the hunter 
has no substantial proof, except for his trophies, of the 
things he may tell of when he comes home. The taking 
of pictures of wild and dangerous game certainly requires 
just as much of skill and courage as that of hunting these 
animals. Besides this, it takes a great deal more of 
patience and requires much more time. Personally, I 

275 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

regret now that I did not take more time for my photog- 
raphy in the jungle than I did, but, as I was anxious to 
return to America at a certain time from the three dif- 
ferent African trips, I always wanted to accomplish with 
the utmost speed what I had started out to do. 

Sometimes the " camera hunter " must spend whole 
days and weeks in order to get a single good photograph 
of certain animals. A German doctor, whom I met on the 
shores of Victoria Nyanza, showed me some wonderful 
pictures of the wild life of the hippo, which he assured me 
had taken him all of five weeks to secure, and of all the 
dififerent exposures, having used up more than six dozen 
films and plates, only five negatives were really first-class ! 

To watch a wild animal when it thinks it is unobserved 
is certainly one of the most interesting things the hunter 
can do. I have for hours repeatedly watched herds of 
zebra, hartebeest, and Grant's gazelle from quite close 
quarters, and it was a great pleasure to see how the ani- 
mals fed, played, and fought together, absolutely uncon- 
scious of the presence of man. During such times of 
watching, the different characteristics of the several ani- 
mals appear very marked indeed. Of the different game 
of the plains none is more curious than the wildebeest, as 
before stated, but the zebra. Grant's gazelle, Thomson's 
gazelle, and the impala are very interesting in their own 
way, although perhaps not as lively and " full of fun " as 
seem to be the curious-looking wildebeest. I deplore not 
having found leisure enough to watch these animals more 
often with a view of minutely describing afterwards their 
peculiar way of feeding, playing, and drinking. 

The dangers and the excitement that accompany wild J 

276 



PHOTOGRAPHY AND PRESERVING 

animal photography can hardly be exaggerated, particu- 
larly if the naturahst goes out without any white man for 
his protection and help. No matter how courageous the 
native gun bearer or askari may be, the hunter never can 
depend upon him entirely. I once had a gun bearer who, 
with the greatest courage, stood by me as I encountered 
a lion charge, and yet the very same man was one of the 
first to run away when, another time, on Mt. Kenia, we 
were charged by a herd of elephants ! I was unfortunate 
myself in this respect in having been out on my shooting 
trips without the company of any white hunter, although 
on my first expedition I had Mr. Lang as taxidermist. 
He generally had to remain in camp to take care of all the 
skins, and so I had to stalk the animals with camera and 
gun alone. The danger is, however, very much minimized 
if the wild-animal photographer has with him a white man 
who is accustomed to jungle life, and is a fearless fellow 
and a good shot. Mr. Radclifife Dugmore was in that 
respect fortunate in having young Mr. Clark with him, 
who generally stood guard with his rifle while Dugmore 
took the pictures. Thus he secured a collection which 
certainly far surpasses anything that has hitherto been 
brought home from the jungles of Africa. 

As before mentioned, the big-game photographer needs 
particularly three things for his success: first, plenty of 
time; second, unlimited patience; and third, a good outfit. 
I say plenty of time, because, as already stated, it will 
often be necessary for the photographer to spend days 
and weeks in the securing of a single good negative of a 
special animal. Often he will have to construct his cover 
one day and wait for two days or more, until the animals 

277 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

are so accustomed to the same that he will be able to take 
his picture from as close a distance as he desires. Then 
again, he may find that after he has been able to take a 
few pictures of the object in question, most of these, or 
possibly all, are complete failures on account of too poor 
light, too short exposure, or some defect in film or plate, 
which latter I myself had to contend with on several oc- 
casions. This was particularly annoying to me in a roll 
of films which I used on the Laikipia Plateau in photo- 
graphing a big bull girafife. For, in some way still un- 
accounted for, three of the most important exposures of 
the roll were so much sunstruck as to spoil almost entirely 
the efifect of the picture. After such an experience it may 
be weeks before the sportsman has an equally good chance 
at the same kind of animal, and, therefore, time is one of 
the first considerations in big-animal photography. 

The patience required is certainly more than the aver- 
age man is possessed of, for time and again the animal 
will not appear in the place at the time wanted, or some 
unfortunate crack from stepping on a branch, or other 
noise, may scare the shy beast away before the sportsman 
has a chance to use his camera. It is very often the case 
with night photography that a miserable hyena or jackal 
will snap the string and set off the camera which was 
placed and fixed for the king of beasts, and thus the pho- 
tographer has to set and reset his apparatus perhaps a 
dozen times during several nights before he is able to get 
a single good photograph of a lion in the act of springing 
on its prey or coming down to drink at a stream. Another 
thing that requires patience in this kind of big game pho- 
tography is the motionless endurance of mosquitoes and 

278 



PHOTOGRAPHY AND PRESERVING 

other insects, when one is standing behind a Hght cover 
for the sake of immortaHzing some wild beast. 

With the two first-named qualities at his disposal the 
most important question is that of the outfit. It is true in 
the way of a camera as it is with the gun, that it is not pos- 
sible to have one camera which is equally well fitted for 
all kinds of work. The big-game hunter should, therefore, 
have at least two or three photographic apparatus of dif- 
ferent construction. 

On one of my trips I brought with me the large Zeiss 
telephoto camera, which is very expensive and quite heavy 
to carry around. This apparatus would take pictures at 
several hundred yards with perfect accuracy, if I was only 
fortunate enough always to use the right focus and ex- 
posure. But if the animal or other object that was being 
photographed was within a hundred yards or less, this 
was an exceedingly difficult task, as I simply had to judge 
the distance and then set the focus accordingly. Of course 
this telephoto camera is also fitted with a removable 
ground glass for the purpose of accurate focusing, but in 
nine cases out of ten the photographer of live game has 
no time to put in the ground glass, throw the focusing 
cloth over his head, focus, remove these things, and insert 
his plate or film for the exposure, and I, therefore, had 
to judge the distance the best way I could when I saw the 
animal coming. This feat in Africa is particularly diffi- 
cult, and one is generally apt to underestimate it, especially 
in the beginning. 

I was fortunate enough to be able to take twelve pho- 
tographs of two rhinos, which first lay down and then 
stood up together, after which one of them charged me. 

279 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

Of these twelve exposures only four were really clear, 
first-class negatives, which are reproduced in the chapter 
on the rhino. Then, another thing against this other- 
wise so excellent apparatus is that the slightest vibra- 
tion of the hand or the tripod makes the picture blurred, 
and the lens requires a good deal of light, and that from 
the right direction, if a very short exposure is to be 
successful. 

If I should go out to Africa again I would take an 
American-made camera — the naturalist's Graflex — which 
is made by the kodak company in Rochester. This 
camera is even more expensive than the Zeiss, costing, 
when new, with the best kind of tripod, two film holders 
and case, about $500, but it is, without a doubt, the best 
camera outfit in existence for wild-animal photography. 
It is advisable to take two film or plate holders to enable 
the photographer to make quicker changes when at work 
in the field. Otherwise the changing of the film roll may 
spoil his chances for another exposure, wanted in a hurry. 
It was with such camera outfit that both Mr. Kermit 
Roosevelt and Mr. Dugmore achieved their wonderful 
success in photographing wild beasts, both at night and 
in the daytime, and Dr. Chapman uses the same apparatus 
in his bird photography. This excellent camera is also a 
little heavier and larger than the Zeiss telephoto apparatus, 
but it has that wonderful advantage, common to all the 
Graflex cameras, that the photographer is able to focus 
on a ground glass, where he sees the image right-side up 
and without any focusing cloth over his head, until the 
very moment that he " snaps '* the picture. He is thus 
not obliged to do any guessing at all as to the exact dis- 

280 



PHOTOGRAPHY AND PRESERVING 

tance or time of exposure, but is sure of getting the object 
sharp at least nine times out of ten. 

It is also advisable to take a smaller camera, with pos- 
sibly a wide-angle lens, for photographing scenery, vil- 
lages, and similar objects, for which purpose some people 
like to take a panoramic camera. I should also think it 
would be possible to fix a small and light camera with a 
" universal lens " under the barrel of the gun, and at the 
very end of the same, with some kind of an attachment 
which would make it possible for the photographer to 
" snap," for instance, a charging animal at a few yards 
distance, and then, without changing the position of the 
gun, kill the oncoming beast. If I go back to Africa again 
I shall certainly try this method, as it would enable the 
hunter to wait with comparative safety until the very last 
moment to see whether the animal means mischief or not 
before he would have to shoot to save his life. 

Another important question to decide is whether it is 
advisable to take films or dry plates, or both. During one 
of my expeditions, when I had both kinds almost equally 
divided, it so happened that one of the porters, who car- 
ried a box with some of our best, already developed nega- 
tives, dropped the same in crossing a river, when he stum- 
bled over some stones. The result was that the heavy box 
hit one of these, and a great many of the negatives were 
broken and ruined, which was a great loss to us, indeed. 
On the other hand, dry plates will, as a rule, keep better 
in the tropics, but if the films are carefully put up in sealed 
tin boxes they will keep for fully five to six months in any 
climate, particularly if one is careful to develop the rolls 
as quickly as possible after the exposures. 

281 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

In British East Africa, where on all the high plateaus 
the game is most plentiful and the sportsman has plenty 
of clear water, cool enough for photography, I always 
used to develop my negatives every day or two, although 
the air was dry enough not to spoil the film rolls, even if 
the developing had been put off for a few weeks. It is, 
however, much the safer plan to develop the negatives, if 
possible, the very same evening after they have been ex- 
posed. Thus the photographer knows at once what suc- 
cess he has had, will more easily understand the reason 
for his failures, and will, in this way, be less apt to make 
mistakes in the future. 

This is particularly easy as far as films are concerned, 
as the photographer is then able to develop the same in 
daylight with the developing machine or developing tank, 
which I have used with great success and pleasure on all 
my African trips. For the dry plates and for individual 
film rolls, that need to have the different negatives devel- 
oped at different lengths of time, a small photographer's 
tent of dark brown or dark green material, and possibly 
lined with red, is very useful. Another thing which should 
not be forgotten is the practical little green umbrella tent, 
with its " windows," through which the photographs are 
taken. This little tent is easily carried and very quickly 
put up. It is almost invisible to the animals at only a few 
yards' distance, if carefully placed among some bush, or 
else screened off a little with branches and grass. 

As to the exposures, it is well to remember for the 
beginner that they must be a great deal longer than he is 
generally inclined to think, as the moisture in the air makes 
the light in reality not as strong as it appears to be. I 

282 








-4. 




SoMK OF THE Author's Trophies at Kijabe R. R. Station in 1906. 
Note the relative size of the elephant tusks. 




Author's "Lion Camp" on the Sotik. 



PHOTOGRAPHY AND PRESERVING 

have heard from a good many sportsmen that in the be- 
ginning ninety per cent of their negatives were under- 
exposed until they got accustomed to judge more accu- 
rately the intensity of the light. Nowadays anything in 
the way of developing papers, hypo, and other chemicals 
of fairly good quality are obtainable in Nairobi at a 
slightly advanced price. 

Another very important feature of the sportsman's life 
in the jungle is the skillful preserving of his trophies. A 
great many skins which sportsmen have taken home from 
different parts of the world are so badly taken off and so 
poorly cured that I have heard taxidermists, like the cele- 
brated Roland Ward in Piccadilly, London, say that they 
very often had to piece the skins out with parts of other 
skins. The sportsman who goes out to Africa without the 
slightest knowledge of taxidermy will probably experience 
that a high percentage of the trophies he brings home have 
been spoiled by careless handling by the native gun bear- 
ers. These men, although most of them know perfectly 
well how to prepare the trophy, at least so that it will not 
spoil in shipment, are so lazy that they will not, as a rule, 
take the trouble to do this properly, unless " Bwana 
mkubwa " is able to show them how to do it or else closely 
watches their work. 

These men, unless dififerently instructed, will invari- 
ably cut up the head and neck skin on the throat side, and 
thus spoil the trophy entirely both for the private collection 
and the museum. The proper way is to cut it up all along 
the back of the neck. If the animals are to be mounted 
whole or in part, or are to be given away to museums, it is 

283 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

very necessary to carefully measure the different parts of 
the animal before the skin is taken off. For nowadays the 
mounting is not done by " stuffing," as formerly, but in 
such way that a carefully proportioned plaster cast is 
made, over which the skin of the animal is then drawn and 
sewed together. For this purpose it is necessary to take 
a number of measurements, such as, for instance (i), the 
full length of the animal from tip of nose to end of tail; 
(2) measurements of the neck behind the ears; (3) the 
neck by the shoulders; (4) height of the animal at the 
withers; (5) the same at pelvis; (6) the girth of chest; 
(7) the same of the belly; (8) the size of the legs at the 
body; (9) at the knee; and (10) just above the hoofs. 
From such measurements, carefully and tightly taken, a 
cast can be made of exactly the same shape and size as the 
identical animal, the skin of which is to be mounted. 

In skinning smaller mammals it is not necessary to cut 
open the legs, but just to make a slit on the chest and belly 
and on the top of the neck, as by so doing the whole animal 
can be skinned without any more cutting. The skins of 
larger animals are sometimes taken off in sections so as 
to make them easier to cure, preserve, and transport, but 
this is not necessary. I have myself brought home to New 
York City several skins of rhinos, eland, and giraffes, 
which were beautifully prepared by Mr. Lang and his 
black helpers in one single piece. This, of course, requires 
the supervision of a skilled taxidermist and a great deal 
of care and hard work, for the heavy hides have to be cut 
thin with large knives from the thickness of an inch and 
more to that of an ordinary antelope or deer skin. 

The hides of wild animals are generally prepared in 

284 



PHOTOGRAPHY AND PRESERVING 

three different ways. One method, pursued by the natives 
the world over, consists in cutting the skin of the animal 
up all the way from the mouth to the tail on the underside. 
Then it is cut open on the inside of the legs, and afterwards 
simply pegged out to dry in the sun. During the dry 
seasons this method is, in most instances, safe, but the 
skins are ruined for mounting and are very troublesome 
to transport, because they are stiff and heavy. A much 
better way to do, although it requires a great deal more 
care and work, is to have the thicker parts of the skins 
cut thin and then the skin stretched out on the ground 
and rubbed over with a mixture of one third of alum to 
two thirds of white salt. For the hairy side a thin coat of 
arsenical soap will suffice to protect it from parasites. The 
third method is the one which Mr. Selous most highly 
recommends and which I have also successfully tried my- 
self. After the animal has been skinned, all fleshy parts 
and fat are most carefully cut away, the lips cut thin, the 
ears turned inside out, and the cartilage cleaned from all 
meat and fat, after which the skin is stretched out by hand 
on the ground or else sewed on to pegs, to be kept more 
stretched. The inside of the skin is then rubbed over with 
a thin, uniform coat of arsenical soap, which also with 
advantage is applied to the hairy parts for the sake of bugs 
and insects. 

Besides such trophies as skins of fur animals and ante- 
lopes, tusks, horns, and heads of elephants, rhinos, hippos, 
giraffes, and other large beasts, the feet of certain of 
these animals are very valuable trophies. They can be 
made up into umbrella stands, cigar boxes, inkstands, 
card cases, and other souvenirs, and are very much valued 
20 285 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

by relatives and friends at home. Beautiful walking sticks 
and riding whips, as well as table tops, which look very 
much like polished agate, can be made from the skins of 
rhinos and hippos, and I have even seen most beautifully 
made bowls and card receivers pressed out of the skins of 
these pachyderms. 

Each sportsman should feel that he is not only out in the 
wilderness for the sake of his own recreation and pleasure, 
but also for the sake of serving science and humanity at 
large. For, even in our enlightened day, it is quite pos- 
sible to discover new species of animals, as has been 
my good fortune on several occasions, and also to enrich 
the interesting and profitable knowledge of natural history 
by the experiences in the jungles. Not only is it our duty 
and pleasure as sportsmen to make careful observations 
of the life of the big-game animals, to preserve them and 
the record of their habits by the use of photography, and 
by the careful preservation of the hunting trophies for 
ourselves and our contemporaries, but we ought to do this 
also for the benefit of coming generations, who will prob- 
ably not be able to find much big game in any part of the 
world. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

BiG-game hunting, and particularly the pursuing of 
powerful and dangerous animals, such as the elephant, 
buffalo, lion, rhinoceros, leopard, with either camera or 
gun, is certainly one of the most fascinating pastimes the 
lover of Nature and animal life can have. It not only 
brings the hunter into the closest touch with the wonder- 
ful animal creation, but also enables him to enjoy the 
most varied scenes of Nature. It takes him over seemingly 
endless plains, with their vast herds of all sorts of game, 
and into the stillness and majesty of the virgin forest, 
where the grandest of all game, the elephant, loves to 
roam. It takes him up to the cool hills and high plateaus 
with their crystal-clear, rushing mountain streams, as 
well as to the hot and mosquito-infested lowlands and 
swamps with their deadly climates. 

The outfit, therefore, of the big-game hunter must of 
necessity be well chosen, and so carefully selected that 
with the minimum of bulk he will have the maximum of 
safety, comfort, and pleasure. On the proper and not too 
cumbersome outfit depends not only the big-game hunter's 
comfort, health, safety, and pleasure, but also, to a very 
large extent, his success. On my first trip to Africa, in 
1906, I met a man who had gone out to do some big-game 

287 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

hunting and who ridiculed the idea of having a mosquito- 
proof tent, a proper bed and bedstead, emergency rations, 
etc. He was going to do without such " unnecessary " 
things, would rough it instead, and so with " less trouble " 
and in shorter time bag all the game he wanted. But he 
landed worn out and sick in the Nairobi hospital a few 
weeks later, and had to return home without the coveted 
trophies. Another young man, a German baron, made 
the opposite mistake of taking so many really unnecessary 
things, including whole boxes of beer and wine, that he 
was greatly hampered thereby, and thus also failed to 
attain what he had set out to accomplish within the limits 
of his time. 

The outfit should, therefore, include only the things 
really useful and exclude everything that civilized man 
can dispense with without in any way depriving himself 
of what is absolutely necessary for his health, pleasure, 
and success. For the true big-game hunter does not go 
into the wilderness to live sumptuously but to enjoy a 
complete rest and change from the products of " over- 
civilization " and the whirl and rush of business, to have 
a chance to study wild animal life, and experience a 
certain amount of hardships in obtaining his coveted 
trophies, the memory of which in after years will belong 
to the happiest moments of his life. 

To those who intend to go out to Africa for the sake 
of photography and big-game shooting, but who as yet 
have had no experience in tropical countries, I here ven- 
ture to give a few hints which may be useful to follow : 

I. The tent is one of the most important parts of the 
outfit and should for East Africa, where all of the outfit 

288 



GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

has to be carried on porters' heads or backs, be so small 
that, with fly and poles, packed in a waterproof tent bag, it 
does not weigh much more than sixty pounds, when dry. 
When packed wet, a tent will generally weigh fully ten to 
twenty pounds more, which makes it very heavy to be car- 
ried by one porter. If the tent is larger, one man carries 
the inner tent and ground sheets and another the fly, poles 
and stakes. I have found the former way much handier, 
for it will allow the hunter to have an inner tent seven 
feet high by six feet wide and seven feet long, with water- 
proof ground cloth sewed on all around and a fly extend- 
ing to the ground seven and a half feet long by twelve feet 
long at the bottom. 

Such a tent gives ample room for one person, and in 
an emergency can easily accommodate two. Both ends of 
the inner tent should be provided with mosquito nets ; the 
rear end with a large " window," and the front with a loose 
net to be lifted up, when any one goes in or out, or else 
have the net fastened all around the edges of the tent's 
" door," with an opening in the middle, which may be 
closed with a string in the same fashion as a lady's sewing 
bag. A tent thus made gives perfect protection from 
mosquitoes, flies, ticks, ants, lizards, snakes, and all kinds 
of " creeping things," with which the tropics swarm. The 
waterproof ground cloth, sewed on to the tent, gives ex- 
cellent protection from the dampness of the ground, or 
even water, in which it is sometimes necessary to pitch 
the tent after or during a heavy rain storm. An extra 
" dining room extension," to be buttoned on to the fly in 
front, is very useful and can be carried, with its pole, as 
an extra cover for the sleeping bag, or complete bed, which 

289 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

generally does not make more than half a load. This 
extension should not reach quite down to the ground, thus 
allowing for more circulation of air. Of the different 
materials that I have tried for tents, nothing seems to be 
better than the green, medium-weight, imported water- 
proofed canvas. 

The smaller sized tent is much to be preferred, when 
there is a great deal of continuous marching to be done, 
as it is very quickly put up and taken down. If the hunter 
plans to remain in the same camp for several days, he 
simply lets his men put up a " grass shade house " in front 
of the tent to serve as a dining room and resting place, 
such house being much cooler than even a double tent, and, 
if reasonably well made, will not let any rain through. 

Of course, if the sportsman only intends to visit the 
healthy portions and high plateaus of British East Africa, 
the mosquito net is not so much a necessity; but it will 
always prove a source of great comfort, if the hunter some- 
times wants to rest in the daytime without having to be 
bothered with flies, wasps, or spiders, of which there are 
great numbers. 

2. Provisions in sufficient quantity should be taken 
from home, as the local supply is very much inferior, and 
things like the splendidly prepared American breakfast 
foods, such as Puffed Rice, Shredded Wheat, Force, and 
other kinds cannot be obtained in East Africa at present. 
A reasonable amount of these breakfast foods will be 
found very useful, particularly as nowadays good fresh 
milk can often be obtained from settlers and natives. It 
is also important to take a few pounds of the so-called 
dehydrated fruits and vegetables, so light to carry and 

290 



GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

really necessary with the different kinds of meat which 
the hunter usually secures in abundance. In any tropical 
country it is not good to live too much on a meat diet, 
and as fresh vegetables very rarely can be obtained in 
Africa, these dehydrated peas, spinach, cranberries, and 
a good many other varieties serve as most excellent 
substitutes. 

A few small tins of different potted meats, perhaps 
half a dozen for each month one expects to be out on the 
shooting trip, should be carried, as sometimes in going 
through farms, or thickly settled countries, no game can 
be procured for a few days at a time. Another very useful 
article is the " Erbswurst " for soup, the emergency food 
of the German army, some kind of meat extract for beef 
tea, as well as Borden's condensed, unsweetened milk, far 
superior to anything obtainable in East Africa. Other 
food stuffs, such as tea, coffee, sugar, rice, and flour, can 
be obtained in good quality locally. 

3. The personal clothing is another very important 
part of the big-game hunter's outfit. Beginning with the 
necessary sun helmet, which can advantageously be ob- 
tained at Port Said on the way out, at least one rather 
heavy hunting suit should be taken, for the high plateaus 
are, in the early mornings and in the evenings, very cold. 
The mercury falls on these plateaus, although lying right 
under the equator, often below the freezing point. Then 
several pairs of Khaki or other dull-colored riding 
breeches, woolen shirts, light and heavy, all of some dark 
green or brownish shades, which seem to blend best with 
all kinds of country. A coat is generally worn only in the 
early morning hours, between five and eight, or after the 

291 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

return to camp in the evening. Otherwise most hunters 
go around in their flannel or Khaki shirts. 

4. Good hoots are very essential, and should be of strong 
but soft waterproof skin, with very heavy soles, some of 
which should be studded with hobnails to prevent slipping 
on the dry grass. It is also advisable to take at least one 
pair of boots with heavy rubber soles for silent stalking 
on hard and rocky ground. Mr. F. C. Selous, the famous 
African elephant hunter, used such rubber-soled boots ex- 
clusively on his last African trip and found them very 
satisfactory. Others again, including ex-President Roose- 
velt, do not fancy them much. Over the boots, unless they 
reach almost up to the knee, it is good to wear either strong 
canvas or leather leggings, or the unrivaled English put- 
tees, which are practically both water and snake proof, and 
can be obtained in Mombasa or Nairobi. 

5. Underclothes should be of the same kind as are 
used at home during fall and spring. A cummerband or 
two should not be forgotten, even if not regularly used. 
Many people, including physicians, recommend only 
woolen underclothes for the tropics, but I myself have 
with great comfort and safety used ordinary cotton under- 
clothes and linen mesh, which certainly are much cooler 
and seem to absorb moisture better than anything else. 

6. Stockings should be of medium weight, of whatever 
material used ; but as the extremes of heat and cold of the 
various districts are very great, it may be wise to carry a 
few pairs of extra heavy and also very light stockings. 

Experience has shown that for a four months' trip in 
the jungle it is not necessary to take more than six changes 
of underclothes, one dozen and a half pairs of socks, four 

292 



GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

pairs of trousers or breeches, one light and one heavy 
coat, four pairs of boots, two pairs of puttees, cummer- 
bands, handkerchiefs, and a small but well-stocked sewing 
bag; all of which, with the exception of the boots, will go 
into a small, air-tight tin or st€el uniform case, best bought 
in England, but also procurable at Port Said or Nairobi. 
This light tin box will also hold the necessary toilet arti- 
cles and yet only weigh about sixty pounds or under. For 
the boots and soiled clothes (which as a rule are washed 
every day or two by the personal servant or " boy "), as 
well as clothes not dry, a waterproof canvas bag with lock- 
bar is the best. This bag, which also may contain a pair 
of rubber boots and an extra rain coat, is generally added 
to the camp chair, or table, to form another load. 

7. Camp furniture and kitchen utensils should contain 
at least a collapsible cot with sleeping bag, a camp table 
and ditto chair or two, a complete aluminum cooking outfit 
in a waterproof canvas bag, a simple collapsible grill, ditto 
baking oven, and one or two bread forms. A couple of 
the so-called " South African water bags " of canvas — a 
most useful addition to one's camp outfit — a few canvas 
pails and wash basins, and possibly a canvas bath tub, and 
the hunter has everything really necessary to his health 
and comfort in as small a bulk as possible. 

8. A small emergency tent is another very useful arti- 
cle to take along. This could be of a pyramid shape, with 
but one collapsible pole in the center and with waterproof 
ground cloth sewed on all around, about six and a half 
feet high by six and a half feet square at the bottom. This 
tent, preferably with a pole of bicycle tubing in three sec- 

. tions, rolls up into a very small parcel and need not weigh 
I 293 



k 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

more than twenty-five pounds, cover and all. It should 
always be carried while tracking big game, such as ele- 
phants, lions, and buffaloes, as one never knows how far 
from the main camp the chase may lead. Without such 
an emergency tent the hunter would often either lose much 
time, and possibly the game, by having to return to camp 
for the night, or else experience the discomforts and dan- 
gers of having to sleep in the jungle without any shelter 
— which is neither pleasant nor safe. Besides this little 
tent, it is wise always to let a man carry a small bag or a 
tin containing emergency rations of bread, biscuits, tinned 
meat, cocoa or tea, and sugar enough for two days, in case 
it is found expedient to follow the beast very far from the 
permanent camp. Had I always done this myself it would 
have saved me many a disappointment and unnecessary 
exposure. 

9. The question of armament is one about which each 
hunter seems to have his own ideas ; but one thing is sure, 
that just as it is impossible for a tailor to make a suit of 
clothes that wall fit all sizes of men, just as impossible is 
it for a gun maker to turn out a weapon which is equally 
serviceable for all sorts of game. The small-caliber guns, 
like the marvelous little .256 Mannlicher-Shoenaur, with 
its flat trajectory, long range and enormous penetration, 
come nearest to perfection no doubt, for I have myself not 
only killed such game as wildebeest, leopard, and zebra 
at from two hundred to five hundred yards with that gun, 
but also with only one shot at each instantly killed a charg- 
ing rhinoceros and two elephants. Yet I should hesitate to 
go against a charging lion with such a gun, unless I was 
close enough to be sure of a head shot, for the bullet is 

294 



GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

too small and light to stop such a beast at once, even if 
shot through the heart. 

To be well equipped with guns there should be one 
small bore, such as the popular Mannlicher just mentioned, 
a heavier magazine rifle, such as the powerful .405 Win- 
chester — a splendid " lion killer " — or a nine- or eleven- 
millimeter Mauser or Mannlicher rifle, and then perhaps a 
double-barreled .450 cordite Express, such as Colonel 
Roosevelt has used with great success on his African 
trip. If the hunter is a strong and powerfully built man, 
he may use even a double-barreled .577 cordite Express — 
without doubt the most potent shoulder weapon made — 
firing not less than one hundred grains of cordite and a 
bullet weighing seven hundred and fifty grains, giving the 
gun a tremendous penetration. But the weight of this gun 
of fourteen to fifteen pounds, and the rather " unpleasant " 
recoil of the shot, makes it impossible for anyone but a 
heavily set man to use it. 

Once in 1906, when suddenly charged by a female 
rhinoceros on the western slopes of Mt. Kenia, I fired with 
this kind of gun at very close quarters, the muzzle of the 
gun being perhaps not more than four yards away from 
the rhino's forehead. The bullet passed right through the 
brute's head, plowed through the whole neck, smashed the 
lungs, and was cut out by my taxidermist from the very 
center of the rhino's heart ! 

A small caliber, high-power gun, although perfectly 
sufficient to kill any animal instantly, if shot through its 
head, is not powerful enough to stop a big charging beast, 
if fired at any other part of its body, whereas the tremen- 
dous shock of for instance, a bullet from the .577 Express 

295 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

would stop and turn any beast at once, even if the most 
vital part of its body was missed. Therefore, when hunt- 
ing such dangerous game as the elephant, rhino, lion, or 
buffalo, the sportsman should always, for safety's sake, 
take along a big-bore, high-power rifle in reserve for a 
final shot at close quarters. The heavy rifle is generally 
carried by a gun bearer, who is supposed to walk close 
behind the hunter. 

Some men never want the " trouble " of carrying any 
kind of gun themselves, except just when they want to 
fire at an animal, their gun bearers always carrying the 
guns behind them. In this way many a rare animal has 
escaped before the " sportsman " has had time to take the 
rifle from his gun bearer and fire, and not a few hunters 
have thus been killed by suddenly charging animals in 
dense bush or high grass. I myself would have been killed 
on at least three different occasions, had I not carried the 
gun myself and been ready to fire instantly, once not even 
having time to bring the rifle up to the shoulder. By sheer 
luck I hit the rhino's head and killed it instantly, less than 
three yards from the muzzle of the gun, which was only 
the small .256 Mannlicher. 

10. A good shotgun is a very useful weapon in Africa, 
as the country swarms with game birds of all kinds, from 
the giant bustard, with a spread of wing measuring ten feet 
and more, to the tiny snipe and quail, so delicious for the 
table. Among other game birds there are ducks, geese, 
guinea fowl, and partridges, the meat of which forms a very 
much appreciated change from the venison, and the rather 
tough zebra and rhino meat. Such a gun, loaded with 
buckshot, is one of the best weapons at night for leopards, 

296 



GENERAL OUTFIT AND ROUTE OF TRAVEL 

hyenas, and even lions, at close quarters. A German offi- 
cer, with whom I traveled home from Africa in 19 lo, told 
me that he had killed not less than two lions and fourteen 
leopards at night with a double-barreled, twelve-gauge 
shotgun during the last six years, and another of my Ger- 
man fellow passengers corroborated his statements. I 
myself once killed a hunting leopard with a twelve-gauge 
shotgun, when I was out bird shooting near Lake Baringo 
in 1906, to which I already have referred in the chapter 
on leopards. 

A good many sportsmen also carry a heavy revolver 
or automatic pistol for use in an emergency at close quar- 
ters. A young settler in British East Africa who had 
been badly mauled by a wounded lion, at which he had 
emptied his gun, but which rushed at him before he could 
reload, told me that if he had carried his revolver at the 
time he would not have been mauled. As it was, his life 
was only saved by the courage of one of his servants, who 
killed the lion on his very body by a well-aimed shot 
through its head. 

Some hunters like to use a telescope on their guns for 
long-range shots on the plains, and I have a couple of 
times with advantage also used the Maxim, gun silencer, 
which was fitted to the .256 Mannlicher. 

On landing in Mombasa or Kilindini an import duty 
of ten per cent ad valorem is levied on all articles brought 
into the country, except on personal wearing apparel and 
already used cameras. Guns and ammunition are gen- 
erally charged for at the local value, which is usually 
equivalent to some twenty-five per cent advance on their 
cost in Europe or America. 

297 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

There are different ways of reaching British East 
Africa. The quickest route is via Marseilles or Naples 
by either the French or the German line, and from there 
via Port Said, the Suez Canal, and the Red Sea to Mom- 
basa or Kilindini. Of these two direct lines the German 
East African line is by far the better of the two, having 
much larger and better fitted steamers for the tropics. 
The trip from Naples to Mombasa or Kilindini occupies 
from fifteen to sixteen days and costs about four hundred 
dollars first class from Naples and return, so that the cost 
of the whole trip from New York to Kilindini and return, 
via Naples, would be approximately six hundred to eight 
hundred dollars, according to the size and location of the 
stateroom. At Naples there are always good and direct 
connections with New York by large and excellent steam- 
ers of the North German Lloyd, the Hamburg-American 
and the White Star Line. 



CHAPTER XIX 

RETROSPECT AND CONCLUSION 

In reviewing what has been said about the big game of 
the Dark Continent, it is evident that British East Africa 
is the most wonderful shooting country in the world, not 
only in regard to the large number of different species 
obtainable, their gameness, and value as trophies, but also 
as to its healthfulness and easiness of reach. Thanks 
to the Uganda Railroad, many government roads and 
bridges, and a network of well-defined native paths, most 
parts of the country are now easily, comfortably, and safely 
reached, so that even ladies may greatly enjoy a short 
sojourn in the Protectorate. 

It was my privilege to meet ex-President Roosevelt 
again, when the Camp Fire Club of America gave a lunch- 
eon to him, shortly after his return to this country. On this 
occasion Colonel Roosevelt gave a most interesting and in- 
structive address about big-game shooting in East Africa. 
Among other things, he said in substance: 

" We need not read with envy of the wonderful chances 
for big-game shooting that our forefathers had in cen- 
turies past, when they hunted with the bow and arrow in 
the wilds of Europe, nor do we need to wonder at the ac- 
counts of the marvelous opportunities for great sport that 
the Egyptian, Babylonian, Greek, Roman, and afterwards 

299 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

European rulers had, at the time when wild bison and 
bears, lions, and much other big game roamed around in 
great numbers even in Europe, for British East Africa 
is a much more wonderful game country than any which 
those rulers ever laid their eyes upon ! We have out there 
a much greater variety of species, as well as much larger 
and fiercer animals, often gathering in herds much 
mightier than anything ever seen in either Europe or 
India. The herds of American bison and elk were cer- 
tainly wonderful in our own country a few decades ago, 
but out there in East Africa the vast herds of antelopes 
even surpass these, and that right now in our present time. 
I wish that all sportsmen in this country, who are able to 
do so, would go out to British East Africa and enjoy for 
a while the marvelous opportunities for big-game shoot- 
ing which that country still offers. . . ." 

I heartily agree with Colonel Roosevelt's remarkable 
utterances, and believe that every fearless and able-bodied 
sportsman, who is fond of big-game shooting, and who can 
afford it, should go out to British East Africa as soon 
as possible. For there is no question that the enormous 
herds of game even there are quickly diminishing before 
the advancing army of settlers, hunters, and naturalists, 
who now yearly visit the country. I regret to say that it 
is my firm opinion, formed both from reports of several 
old African hunters as well as from my own observations 
in the field during my three expeditions to Africa, that 
the big game there is rapidly being shot off. " Record 
heads " of most of the game it is almost impossible to 
secure any more ; large bull elephants with tusks weighing 
more than one hundred pounds apiece are extremely rare, 

300 



RETROSPECT AND CONCLUSION 

and rhinos with horns of even twenty-four inches and 
more hardly ever encountered, unless the hunter goes 
very far away from the ordinary hunting districts. In 
certain localities, where large elephant herds with magnifi- 
cent tuskers used to roam around only a few years ago, not 
an elephant is seen to-day, and where the mighty pachy- 
derms still exist in British East Africa, as on Mt. Kenia, 
the Aberdare Mountains, Mt. Elgon, and in the south- 
western part of the Protectorate, they are very shy and 
wary, and even tuskers with ivory of one hundred pounds 
a pair are scarce. The lion is getting more and more rare 
and shy, and is much less frequently encountered during 
the daytime than only a few years ago, and big black-maned 
ones are extremely hard to secure. This is also the case 
with the cunning leopard, which seems to have learned by 
experience to distinguish between the black savage and the 
white man with his far-reaching and destructive guns. 

I do not believe that the native hunters are a menace 
to the wild game, for even in centuries past, when they 
did exactly what they pleased without any restrictions or 
control on the part of the white man, the game increased 
all the time. Although some of the tribes are extremely 
fond of hunting and live chiefly from the game they 
secure, yet even they do not seem to be able to check the 
natural increase of the game. The African is, with few 
exceptions, much too lazy to be very destructive to the 
animals, for he will only kill what he needs for food and 
his scanty clothing, or to secure the coveted ivory for 
trading purposes. Yet his methods of hunting and his 
armament are so primitive and poor that without fire- 
arms he never could do much harm to the game. In 

21 301 



» 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

German and Portuguese East Africa, where at times the 
natives have been allowed to carry firearms, this was 
dififerent, but in most of the countries controlled by Euro- 
pean governments, including British East Africa, he is, 
fortunately, not allowed to carry firearms. It is, there- 
fore, only with the advent of the white sportsman and 
settler with their destructive modern weapons that the 
natural increase of game has been checked, and some 
of the finest of the animals threatened with total ex- 
tinction. 

Yet, in spite of all this, British East Africa is to-day the 
most remarkable game country in the world. On its vast 
plains the sportsman will still find countless numbers of 
different kinds of hartebeest, topi, Grant's and Thom- 
son's gazelles, lion, wart hog, wildebeest, water buck, 
girafife, zebra, and occasionally eland, rhino and hippo, in 
and near the rivers. In open bush or parklike country 
he will meet zebra, Jackson's hartebeest, impala, oryx, 
eland, roan, sable, wart hog, girafife, rhino, reed buck, 
water buck, baboons, bush pig, and many of the smaller 
antelopes. In the big, dense forests he may secure ele- 
phant, bush pig, bongo, rhino, bush buck, possibly the 
giant pig, and a great number of different kinds of mon- 
keys and smaller fur animals, while almost everywhere 
there is an abundance of birds, big and small, not to speak 
of the reptiles previously referred to. 

From the above it is evident that whereas certain ani- 
mals, like the elephant, bongo, bush pig and monkeys, are 
found only in the forests, and other game, like the gnu, 
topi, and Thomson's gazelle, are all denizens of the plains, 
a great number of the choicest game animals are found 

302 



RETROSPECT AND CONCLUSION 

both on the plains and in open bush and forest country. 
Among these the most important are the Hon, giraffe, 
hartebeest, zebra, wart hog, Grant's gazelle, oryx, eland, 
roan, sable, rhino, leopard, baboons, and a number of 
smaller antelopes. The best kind of country, therefore, 
to hunt in, is, without doubt, those places where the plains 
merge into open bush or parklike country and where 
clumps of bushes are mingled with larger shade trees. 
This kind of country is also much more suitable for 
observing animals at close quarters. There the natu- 
ralist-sportsman is more apt to secure good photographs 
of live big game, and there it is possible to stalk the 
wild animals successfully with both camera and gun, 
and this is one of the most interesting feats of big-game 
hunting. 

It is not too much to say that from one hundred and 
fifty to two hundred shooting parties, and sometimes even 
more, now yearly go out to British East Africa in search 
of big game. If it is estimated that each hunting party 
during the sojourn in the land only kills on an average 
fifty animals — some have perhaps felled from two to three 
hundred and more, even without counting the many ani- 
mals which were wounded but not secured by the party, 
and which afterwards succumbed to their wounds — this 
would make from two hundred parties not less than ten 
thousand animals slaughtered yearly! Add to this that 
each adult lion or leopard kills an animal almost every 
night, no one can wonder that game grows more and more 
scarce and wary, and that fine heads and large tusks will 
soon be impossible to obtain. 

The sportsman who is able to do so should, therefore, 

303 



THE BIG GAME OF AFRICA 

as before remarked, go out to these wonderful shooting 
grounds just as soon as possible, if he wants to see the vast 
game herds before they dwindle away more perceptibly. 
I regret to say that it is perfectly true that a good many 
hunters so ruthlessly and wantonly destroy game, wound- 
ing hundreds of animals at long distance without even 
bothering to follow them up, that they indeed do not 
deserve to be classed as sportsmen. It should be the duty 
of each man, who goes out to Africa for a shoot, most 
scrupulously to observe the game laws and to do all he 
can to discourage the slaughter of game animals by 
others. As Colonel Roosevelt so fitly remarked : " No 
sportsman should kill game unless : 

" First, it is an exceptionally fine head ; 

" Second, it is intended to be preserved for scientific 
purposes ; 

" Third, it is shot in real — not pretended — self-de- 
fense.'^ 

If this is complied with by all true sportsmen, and such 
people as wantonly and cruelly destroy game were made 
to feel that they in this respect are nothing but " crim- 
inals," much will be accomplished in the right direction 
and the standard of big-game hunting be raised. Thus, 
and with large and suitable game preserves, British East 
Africa will still for decades hold its own as the world's 
finest hunting ground. 

My book is finished, but as I have written these pages, 
they have made me live all over again my wanderings, 
hardships, and many narrow escapes! They have revived 
in my memory the many pleasant evenings when, after 
days of excitement and danger, failure or success, the 

304 



RETROSPECT AND CONCLUSION 

whole safari gathered around the big camp-fire, where 
naked savages deHghted to perform their weird war 
dances, and where I Hstened to their tales of adventure, 
love, and fight, lulled to sleep by the crackling of the logs 
and the mournful howls of the hyena or the magnificent 
roars of the lion ! 



APPENDIX 

I. THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

The Ki-Swahili language, of the Bantu group, is not only 
spoken by the Swahili coast people of British and German East 
Africa, but has for hundreds of years been used by the Arab mer- 
chants and slave traders on their safaris into the interior. There 
is hardly a tribe of any size at all in the whole of British East 
Africa, German East Africa, British Central Africa, Uganda, 
and even the Congo, of which not a few people at least under- 
stand enough of Ki-Swahili to be able to serve fairly well as 
guides, gun-bearers and interpreters. 

The language generally spoken by these inland tribes is, of 
course, a very corrupt form of Ki-Swahili. In this respect it 
corresponds to the " pidgin-English " spoken by the Chinamen 
in Hong Kong and other places in the East where many Eng- 
lish-speaking people live. The ordinary illiterate caravan porter, 
even when a Swahili, speaks almost exclusively this " pidgin- 
Swahili," partly because he knows no better, but also because he 
is aware that the average European, or the savage inlander, will 
then more easily understand him. 

When I arrived the first time in Africa I had, by hard work, 
during the last three weeks of the voyage, acquired a rude 
knowledge of Ki-Swahili, enough to enable me to get along 
very nicely with the porters without an interpreter. When ar- 
riving the second and third time in Africa, I had learned to 
speak the language more correctly and grammatically, but found 
that I often had to speak in the pidgin dialect to be quicker un- 
derstood by the porters of the different tribes in my caravan. 



APPENDIX 

In the following lessons, which any man with average in- 
telligence will be able to learn in much less time than it requires 
to go from New York to Mombasa, enough of this mostly used 
pidgin-Swahili will be taught to enable the sportsman to com- 
municate directly with his guides, gun-bearers, and porters, even 
if these do not understand a word of English. To anyone who 
has the time, patience, and ambition to learn the language more 
correctly — which ought not to take an average man more than 
five or six months, giving to it about two hours a day — I most 
strongly recommend the two following publications : " Swahili 
Exercises " by Edward Steere, a most excellent and concise in- 
troduction to the Ki-Swahili language, and, to those who un- 
derstand German, I would recommend as a still better grammar, 
" Praktische Suaheli Grammatik," by Prof. Dr. C. Velten. This 
latter book has the advantage of having a splendid dictionary at 
the end and is, perhaps, somewhat more thorough than the 
smaller English publication. 



Introduction 

The pronunciation of the Swahili words is very much like 
that of Italian or Spanish. So, for instance, a is pronounced like 
a in father; e like e in fret; i as i in pin; o as o in for; w as w in 
lung; y as 3; in yet. 

The consonants are pronounced almost exactly as in English. 

To compare the correct Ki-Swahili with the pidgin dialect, 
let us, for instance, mention the word for my, which, in its sim- 
plest form is -angu, preceded by the consonant prefix, peculiar 
to the word of the " owned " object. For instance my wife is 
bibi wangu; but my knife, kisu changii; my sail, tanga langu; 
my house, nyiimba yangu; my place, pahali pangu. This shows 
that the same English word, my, may be expressed by either 
wangu, changu, langu, yangu, or pangu, according to the word 
to which it belongs. The illiterate porter, however will gener- 
ally use the form wangu or yangu with all these words with the 

308 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

possible exception sometimes of the words beginning with Ki- 
or Ch-, and this only for the sake of euphony. 

The same is the case with the adjectives and prefixes to the 
verbs. Take, for instance, the word for our large, -kuhwa; a 
large man, mtu mkubiva; a large knife, kisu kikuhzva; or take 
the verb, kata, cut, for instance; he cuts is a-na-kata; it (the 
knife) cuts, ki-na-kata. The Swahili will, however, understand 
you equally well if you simply say kisii mkuhzva a-na-kata, the 
big knife cuts, instead of the correct kisu kikuhzva ki-norkata. 

The following lessons will give this pidgin-Swahili as it is 
mostly used in the " safari language " of the porters. This is 
exactly what the hunter really needs and wants on his shooting 
expedition, which he will enjoy twice as much, if he is able to 
communicate directly with his own men, as well as with the 
chieftains and guides from tribes which he may meet on his 
inland expedition. Not only will he thus enjoy his outing more, 
but is also much less apt to be deceived by his men and guides. 

After the lessons follows a key to the translations of the 
different exercises, so that the reader will be able to determine 
whether his own translations are correct or not. This key should 
not be used, however, indiscriminately, but only after the student 
has first written out his own translations of the different exer- 
cises, both in English and Swahili. At the end is a vocabulary, 
containing in alphabetical order all the words that have occurred 
in the lessons, and a good many more. 



Lesson I 

1. The Swahili knows no articles whatever; mtu, therefore, 
means man, as well as the man, or a man ; mtoto, a, or the child. 

2. The adjectives always follow the word they refer to, and 
take different prefixes according to the eight different classes, 
to which the noun may belong, but we will here treat them all 
as belonging to the first class, that of the living beings. 

3. In the same way the personal prefixes, pronouns, and the 

309 



APPENDIX 

verbs will be treated, as most of the substantives, that the sports- 
man is Hkely to use, belong to this class anyhow. 

4. The personal prefixes for the verbs are, Ni-, U-, A-, Tu-, 
M-, and Wa-; I, Thou, He (she or it), We, You, and They. 

5. The tense prefixes for the verbs are, -na- for the present 
tense, -li- or -mc- for past, and -ta- for future. Thus, for in- 
stance, of the verb, piga, shoot, beat, we have : Ni-na-piga, I 
shoot; Ni-li-piga, I shot; Ni-me-piga, I have shot; Ni-ta-piga, 
I shall shoot. In writing or in printing, the forms of the verbs 
are always written in one word, Ninapiga, but in the first two 
lessons they are separated, so as to make it easier for the be- 
ginner to find the different forms at a glance. 

6. The Swahili has no special interrogative form of the verb, 
but expresses the question by a different tone of voice. For 
instance, Mtn hapa, may mean : A man is here, or Is a man here ? 
according to the way of pronouncing the words. If an inter- 
rogative is used, it is always placed after the word it refers 
to, except, perhaps, when it stands in a longer sentence and be- 
longs to several nouns, when it may begin the sentence. For 
instance, ivapi, where ; Where is the man ? in Swahili, Mtu wapi? 
Where are the man and the woman ? Wapi mfu na bibi? 

7. Is or are, as a general rule, are omitted in the sentence, 
unless they are especially accentuated. In such case, both is and 
are are expressed by ni for all persons, singular and plural, and 
si for the negative is not, or are not ; therefore. The man is here, 
Mtu ni hapa; The man is not here, Mtu si hapa. 

8. The second person imperative of all regular verbs in Swa- 
hili is, as in English, exactly like their infinitive form ; thus, piga 
means shoot (to shoot), and shoot! When in English to is put 
before the infinitive form, the Swahili uses ku. To shoot, there- 
fore, is in Swahili, ku-piga. 

Vocabulary 

bwana, sir, master. bibi, wife, women, miss. 

chakula, food, meal. bilauri, glass. 

bunduki, gun. leta, bring. 

310 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 



hema, tent. 

kahava, coffee. 

boy, servant, butler. 

chai, tea. 

chumvi, salt. 

majani, grass. 

kisu, knife. 

maji, water. 

masiwa, milk. 

mkate, bread. 

safari, travel, caravan, trip. 

tembo, elephant. 

sukari, sugar. 

mtoto, child, baby. 

nyama, animal, meat. 

simba, lion. 

nyumba, house, home. 

mtu, man. 

sahani, plate. 



ona, see, find. 

penda, love. 

taka, want, like. 

piga, shoot, beat. 

piga hema, pitch the tent. 

wapi, where. 

tayari, ready. 

sasa hivi, instantly, just now. 

ema (=yema), good, all right. 

hapa, here. 

sasa, now. 

katika, in, on, by, at. 

Sana, very, very much. 

hapana, no, not. 

kali, sharp, cruel, dangerous. 

ndio, 3;^^. 

karibu, near. 

na, and, with. 

-kubwa, large, great. 



Exercises 
Translate into English: 

A.^ I. Mtu mkubwa a-me-piga simba. 2. Bibi a-na-penda mtoto. 
3. Boy, kisu wapi? 4. Katika nyumba, Bwana. 5. Leta kisu na 
bunduki hapa! 6. Ndio, Bwana. 7. Ni-me-ona tembo mkubwa 
katika majani. 8. Safari wapi? 9. Hapa karibu, Bwana! 10. 
Leta chakula, boy; kisu, sahani na bilauri ! 11. Simba nyama kali. 
12. Piga hema hapa! 13. Ni-na-taka chai, sukari na masiwa, siagi, 
mkate na chumvi! 14. Boy, leta maji hapa! 15. Ndio, Bwana, 
sasa hivi. 16. Bunduki si katika nyumba, ni hapa katika hema. 

17. Bwana na bibi ni hapa katika majani na wa-na-taka chakula. 

18. Chakula tayari, boy? 19. Ndio, sasa tayari! 20. Bwana kali 
a-na-piga sana boy. 21. Leta bunduki, ni-na-ona simba hapa 
karibu ! 22. Tembo a-na-taka maji. 23. Ni-me-ona mtu mkubwa 
katika hema hapa na a-me-piga nyama kwa bunduki. 24. Wapi 
sukari, mkate, chai na masiwa? 25. Chakula hapa, Bwana! 

' The letters in front of the exercises refer to the keys for the same at the end of 
the chapter. 



APPENDIX 



Translate into Swahili: 



B. I. The man saw a lion near the house. 2. Butler, bring the 
food ; I want tea, bread, butter and milk right away ! 3. Yes, Sir, 
the food is ready in the house. 4. All right! 5. Where is the cara- 
van now ? 6. Near by. Sir, near by ! 7. I see an elephant in the 
water, 8. No, Sir, it is not an elephant. 9. Where are the gun, the 
knife and the tent? 10. Here, Sir! 11. The food is not good, 
bring a plate and a knife ! 12. I want to shoot the lion right away I 
13. Where is the lion now? 14. Near by in the grass by the water. 
15. The child saw the women in the house. 16. Sir, the food is 
now ready; coffee, sugar and milk with bread. 17. I want very 
much water, milk and a knife. 18. Have you seen the women here? 
19. No, Sir, the women are not here ; they are in the tent. 20. Do 
you want the food right away? Yes, bring (it) here now. 21. 
The elephant and the lion are dangerous animals. 22. Butler, put 
up the tent here and bring the water! 23. I see an animal in the 
grass, bring at once the gun and the knife! 24. Yes, Sir, they are 
here ! 25. All right, butler, now I want the caravan. 



Lesson II 

1. The plurals of substantives are formed by different pre- 
fixes before the root of the word, but as there are not less than 
eight different classes, each requiring its particular prefix, and 
as it is very difficult to know to which of these classes the dif- 
ferent words belong, the following lists will always give the 
plural of each substantive, except where the plural is the same 
as the singular, as is done also in the vocabulary. 

2. The adjectives and prefixes before the verbs as v^^ell as 
those before the different pronouns, will all be treated as belong- 
ing to the first class, as before mentioned. 

3. The adjectives are given here in their simplest form; for 
singular, prefix m-, for plural, zva- (the proper prefixes for the 
first class) ; for instance, Mtu mrefu, a tall man; watii warefu, 
tall men. 

4. The possessive case is expressed by the particle wa for 

312 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

the first class; for instance, The European's wife, Bibi wa Mzun- 
gu. The master's knife, Kisu wa Bwana. 



Vocabulary 



kisu, visu, knife. 

mtu, watu, man. 

mtoto, watoto, child. 

kitendo, vitendo, action. 

mshale, mishale, arrozv. 

kitanda, vitanda, bedstead. 

kitabu, vitabu, book. 

mzigo, mizigo, burden. 

kiti, viti, chair. 

kitana, vitana, comb. 

mpishi, wapishi, cook. 

-gumu, hard. 

-zito, heavy. 

-dogo, little. 

-vein, long. 

-pya, new. 

-zima, sound, well. 

-tamu, szveet. 

-nene, thick. 

sema, say, speak. 

safisha, clean. 

kamata, take hold of. 

kikombe, vikombe, cup, 

mlango, milango, door. 

mzungo, wasungo, white man. 

mkono, mikono, hand. 

kipini, vipini, handle, 

kilima, vilima, hill. 



kiboko, viboko, hippopotamus. 

kioo, vioo, mirror. 

-kubwa, large, great. 

-zuri, good, beautiftd. 

-pana, broad. 

-kavu, dry. 

-tupu, empty. 

-baya, bad. 

ku-ogopa, to fear. 

ku-fanya, to do. 

ku-la, to eat. 

ngapi, how many? 

-moja, one. 

-bili, or will, two. 

-tatu, three. 

-nne, four. 

-tano, five. 

-sitta, six. 

nini, ivhatf 

wangu, my, mine. 

wako, your, yours. 

wake, his, hers, its. 

nina, / have. 

una, you {thou) have. 

ana, he has. 

tuna, we have. 

mna, you have. 

wana, they have. 



Exercises 
Translate into English: 

C. I. Watu warefu wa-me-leta visu hapa. 2. Mtoto a-na vitanda 
tatu katika nyumba. 3. Leta sasa hivi mishale tano ! 4. U-na-sema 
nini? 5. Ni-na-sema, ni-na-taka chakula wangu katika hema wangu 



APPENDIX 

sasa. 6. Ndio, Bwana mkubwa, ni-ta-leta ! 7. Mpishi mnene a-me- 
safisha vikombe wangu. 8. Mzungo mkubwa a-me-ona bibi wako 
hapa karibu, 9. U-na-ogopa mtu mrefu? 10. Mlango wa nyumba 
wangu mzito. ii. Boy, kikombe wangu si safi ! 12. Ndio, Bwana, 
ni-ta-safisha ! 13. Safari a-na-fanya nini sasa? 14. A-na-kula cha- 
kula katika hema, chakula wa nyama wa kiboko mnene, Bwana. 
15. Kipini wa kisu si nzuri. 16. Watu ngapi katika safari wako? 
17. Ni-na watu watano sasa. 18. Mtoto wangu si mzima. 19. 
Kahawa wangu si tamu, nataka sukari na masiwa katika kikombe. 
20. Ni-me-ona tembo moja, simba wawili na viboko watano, na ni- 
me-piga tembo, simba moja na kiboko moja. 21. Bunduki wangu 
wapi ? Ni safi ? Ndio, Bwana, ni-me-safisha. 22. Mzigo wako 
mzito? Hapana, Bwana, ni nzuri. 23. Watoto watano wapi? 
Hapa, katika majani na wa-na-kula nyama, chai, masiwa na mkate. 
24. Mtoto, safisha mikono wako sasa hivi na leta kitana hapa ! 25. 
U-me-ona kitabu mpya katika mlango? Ndio, Bwana, ni-ta-leta? 

Translate into Sivahili: 

D. I. My child has a beautiful book in (his) hand, 2. Three ele- 
phants and four hippos are in the water. 3. How many lions have 
you shot ? 4. I have shot four lions with my gun, and my boy shot 
one with an arrow. 5. What did your wife say? 6. She said she 
wanted very much the meal just now. 7. Boy, bring the mirror 
and the comb ! 8. I see a white man in the door of my house ; what 
does he want? 9. Your action is bad, my child. 10. Is your tea 
sweet? No, bring (me) the sugar! 11. Take hold of the tent and 
put it up here! 12. Yes, sir, they have six loads. 13. Boy, what 
are you doing here? Sir, I am cleaning your gun and knife. 14. 
All right, where is the gun bearer ? In the tent, sir, and he is eating 
his food now. 15. Do you fear a lion? 16. Take hold of the 
handle and bring it here! 17. Is the load heavy now? No, Sir, it 
is light. 18. Bring three men here right away! 19. How many 
chairs are in the tent now? 20. We have four chairs, two bedsteads 
and one mirror. 21. How many hills are there here? 22. I see 
five ; one very large and four small. 23. My child has five fine 
buttons. 24. Your actions are not good, my men. 25. Where have 
you pitched my tent? Is it near the water? 



314 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 



Lesson III 

1. The verb has, as before remarked, four simple tenses in 
its positive form; the present, na; the imperfect, It; the perfect, 
me; and the future, ta. 

2. The negative forms of the verbs have only three tenses 
and are expressed both by different prefixes and in the present 
tense also by a change in the verb itself. The personal negative 
prefixes are: si, hu, ha, hatu, ham, kawa; meaning literally: I 
not, You (lit. thou) not. He (she or it) not, We not. They not. 
Of the verb ku-piga (to shoot), for instance, the simple forms 
are the following : 



Present. 



Positive Form. 

ninapiga (or napiga), / shoot. 
unapiga, yoii shoot. 
anapiga, he (she) shoots. 
tunapiga, we shoot. 
mnapiga, yon shoot. 
wanapiga, they shoot. 



Negative Form. 

sipigi, I do not shoot. 
hupigi, you do not shoot. 
hapigi, he (she) does not shoot. 
hatupigi, we do not shoot. 
hampigi, you do not shoot. 
hawapigi, they do not shoot. 



nilipiga, / shot. 



Imperfect. 

sikupiga, I did not shoot. 



nimepiga, / have shot. 



Perfect. 

sikupiga, / have not shot. 



nitapiga, / will shoot. 



Future. 

sitapiga, / will not shoot. 



piga, shoot! (sing.). 
pigeni, shoot! (plural). 



Imperative. 

usipigi, do not shoot! (sing.), 
msipigi, do not shoot! (plural). 



APPENDIX 



ku-jibu, to answer. 
ku-fika, to arrive. 
ku-uliza, to ask. 
ku-amsha, to awaken. 
ku-nunua, to buy. 
ku-sayidia, to help. 
ku-jua, to knozv. 
ku-chukua, to carry. 
ku-panda, to climb up. 
ku-rudi, to come, or go back. 
ku-pika, to cook. 
ku-lia, to cry. 
ku-anguka, to fall. 
ku-funga, to bind. 
ku-ua, to kill. 
ku-pima, to measure. 
ku-simama, to stand. 
ku-pa, to give. 
ku-tasama, to see, look for. 



Vocabulary 

mnyampara, caravan-headman. 

askari, soldier. 

kifaru, rhinoceros. 

mamba, crocodile. 

kongoni, hartebeest. 

pofu, eland. 

mpagazi, caravan porter. 

-vivu, lasy, idle. 

leo, to-day. 

jana, yesterday. 

kesho, to-morrow. 

labda, perhaps. 

karibu ya, near by. 

chini ya, belozv. 

juu ya, above. 

ndani ya, inside. 

huko, there. 

ngosi, skin. 

pembe, horn, corner. 



Translate into English: 

E. I. Boy, sema mnyampara kusayidia mpagazi kuchukua 
mzigo. 2. Mzungu amefika katika campi ; anataka kununua cha- 
kula. 3. Ah, sitaki kuuza sasa. 4. Mnyampara na gun bearer 
rudeni hapa, nataka (or ninataka) kupiga kongoni. 5. Wapagazi 
wavivu Sana. 6. Uliza askari hapa wapi kisu wangu. 7. Bwana, 
askari anasema hajui. 8. Safari atafika huko leo? Sijui, Bwana, 
labda. 9. Katika maji hapa ninaona mamba na viboko. 10. Mny- 
ampara, leta wapagazi sasa hivi ; nataka (or ninataka) kupiga kifaru, 
na watu watachukua ngozi na pembe. 11. Panda juu ya kilima na 
tasama, labda myama huko. 12. Ndio Bwana, natasama (nina- 
tasama) simba na kifaru huko karibu ya kilima. 13. Nataka kun- 
unua chakula wa watu. 14. Kesho tutafanya safari. 15. Wapi 
gim bearer na boy sasa? 16. Uliza boy anafanya nini. 17. Bwana, 
anasema anasafisha bunduki. 18. Ema, sema mpishi nataka kula 
chakula. 19. Unataka nini, Bwana? 20. Nataka chai, mkata, siagi, 
nyama na chumvi! 21. Bibi wangu wapi? Ndani ya nyumba, 

316 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

Bwana. 2.2. Chini ya milima huko naona pofu. 23. Boy, sayidia 
gun bearer kusafisha bunduki. 24. Mpishi atapika chakula sasa? 
25. Mtu mnoja ameanguka hapa. 

Translate into Swahili: 

F. I. Gun bearer, tell my men to climb up the hill and kill the 
hartebeest. 2. Measure the lion at once ! 3. Near by the water I 
see an elephant standing. (Sw. he stands.) 4. Boy, bring the rifle 
and the knife and tell the gun bearer to come here ! 5. Yes, Sir, he 
is coming now. 6. Headman, where are the porters? 7. Perhaps 
I will go back to Nairobi to-morrow. 8. Boy, is the food ready 
now? 9. No, Sir, there is no food here now. 10. Shall I go and 
buy? II. No, I do not want you to go, tell the headman to buy. 
12. Where is the hartebeest now, gun bearer? 13. I do not know. 
Sir, perhaps it has fallen ! 14. No, Mabruki, I see the animal near 
the large hill. 15. Have you seen a lion to-day? 16. No, Sir, I 
have not seen any animal. 17. Is the soldier here now? 18. I do 
not know, Sir! 19. Awaken the porters at once, I want to help the 
European there ! 20. The cook is inside the tent, ask if the meal is 
ready. 21. A bad man will not help his wife. 22. He will per- 
haps arrive here to-morrow, I do not know. 23. Have you cleaned 
the gun and the knife? 24. Yes, Sir, they are ready now. 25. Very 
well, eat the food right away. 



Lesson IV 

1. The Swahili verb also uses an objective prefix to denote 
the one, which receives the action of the verb; this prefix is in- 
serted between the tense prefix and the verb-root. The objective 
prefixes are: -Ni-, -ku-, -m-, -tu-, -wa-, -wa-; Me, you (thee), 
him (her, it), us, you, them. You beat me, U-na-ni-piga; I have 
beaten them, Ni-me-wa-piga; they will beat us, Wa-ta-tu-piga, 
the syllables being written together: Unanipiga, Nimewapiga, 
and Watatiipiga. 

2. This objective prefix is also used instead of the lacking 
definite article : for instance, he beats a man, anapiga mtu; but, 

22 317 



APPENDIX 

he beats the man, anampiga mtu. We shall shoot the Lion, 
Tutampiga simba. If the verb begins with a vowel, a -w- is 
inserted between the objective -in- and the verb, for the sake of 
euphony; thus, for instance, instead of saying* alimona, he saw 
him, the Swahili says alimivona, etc. 

3. Two of the most common irregular verbs are ku-ja, to 
come, and ku-zvenda, to go, abbreviated to kzvcnda. These verbs 
are always used with the infinitive mark, like all monosyllable 
verbs. Hence, he comes, anaktija; they go, wanakzuenda; we will 
come, tutakuja, etc. The imperative of these verbs is also irreg- 
ular; for instance: Come! Njoo! Come! (plural) Njooni! Go! 
Nenda! Go! (plural) Nendem! 

4. One of the most useful of the many compound forms 
of the verb is the form for " if." For all persons and tenses this 
form is the same; it is -ngali-, inserted immediately behind the 
personal prefixes. It denotes that if a person does something, 
another thing is bound to follow; for instance, Ningalizvapiga 
(ni-ngali-wa-piga) zvangalikimbia (wa-ngali-kim-bia) may 
mean : If I beat them, if I had beaten, would beat, or shall beat 
them, they will, would have, or might run away. 

5. If can also be expressed by kama, which generally starts 
the sentence; If you buy food, give (it) to me, Kama unammua 
posho, nipe (an irregular form for nikupa). 

Vocabidary 

mbwa, dog. ku-safiri, to travel, march. 

kiboko, bibako, hippo. ku-andika, to zvritc, engage, 

posho, porter's food. ku-pa, to give, present. 

-refu, long. sana, much, very much. 

labda, perhaps. huyu, this. 

campi, camp. hawa, these. 

mto, river. mti, miti, tree. 

killa, all, every. rningi, many. 

upesi, fast, quick. gani? zvhat kindf 

ku-sikia, to hear, listen. mimi, /, / myself. 

ku-ambia, to tell, narrate. ingine, another. 

ku-weza, to be able to. yule, that. 

318 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

kii-taka, want, like. wale, those. 

ku-tasama, to see, behold. kazi, zvork, labor. 

ku-funga. to tie, bind. choroa, oryx, antelope. 

ku-kimbia, to run, run away. sikitika, sorry, sad. 

Exercises 
Translate into English: 

G. I. Umetasema simba hapa? 2. Ndio, nimemtasama karibu 
ya milima huko. 3. Waliwajibu watu sasa hivi. 4. Tutampiga 
mtoto mbaya ndani ya hema kesho. 5. Umewatasama nyama huko? 
6. Ndio, Bwana, ninawaojia sasa kongoni, simba na kifaru. 7. Ni, 
karibu ? 8. Hapana, si karibu, Bwana. 9. Ungalitaka chakula sasa, 
ningalikuleta. 10. Kama kifaru angalikwenda, singalimpiga. 11. 
Njoni hapa, killa watu, nitawakupa posho chini ya mti mkubwa 
huko. 12. Hungahsafisha bunduki, ningahkupiga. 13. Watu hawa 
si wazuri. 14. Sikumpiga simba leo karibu ya mhma huko. 15. 
UngaUmwona tembo karibu, nisema sasa hivi. 16. Nataka kwenda 
kupiga nyama mingi sasa. 17. Watu wanakula nini, mnyampara? 
Ah, Bwana, chakula mingi leo, nyama wa kongoni na choroa. 18. 
Watu wanataka posho sasa? 19. Wangalikuja tungaliwakupa 
pesa. 20. Unataka nini, boy? 21. Bwana, mimi nataka kazi. 22. 
Kazi gani unataka? 23. Ah, Bwana, nataka kazi wa gun bearer ao 
kirongozi. 24. Nimewaandika killa watu wangu, sasa sitaki ingine. 
25. Mimi sikitika sana, Bwana, mimi najua kazi mingi, niandika ! 

Translate into Szvahili: 

H. I. I shall beat the dog, if it does not come. 2. The hippo 
has come up above the water. 3. Can you see him, boy? 4. No, 
Sir, I cannot! 5. Do you want to shoot him right away? 6. Yes, 
bring me the big gun and the long knife. 7. Yes, Sir, they are here 
now. 8. Where (are) the porters? Are they near the camp? 9. Go 
and ask the headman. 10. He says he does not know where (they 
are) now. Sir. 11. Bind the little rhino with rope, he will run away! 
12. Come up here, all (you) people, I want to see you. 13. I want 
to leave camp to-morrow and go to the big river. 14. All right, Sir, 
we will make all things ready. 15. Is the caravan not here, head- 
man? I want them to arrive at once! 16. He said he had not shot 
a lion. 17. I told him to run very fast, but he would not ! 18. Is 



I 



APPENDIX 

he lazy or is he not well? 19. I do not know, Sir, I believe he was 
eating his food. 20. We will not shoot animals here, they have 
run away. 21. Listen, if you will come here, I shall give you food. 
22. If you hear the lion, tell me at once! 23. Porters, do not kill 
the little hippo, bind him ! 24. Sir, they do not come here, they do 
not like to help the gun bearer! 25. Tell them if they do not come, 
I shall not give them food to-morrow. 



Lesson V 

1. The personal pronouns are: Mimi, I; zvewe, you, or thou, 
(always used in addressing a person) ; yeye, he (she or it) ; sisi, 
we; nyinyi, you; wao, they. 

2. The possessive pronouns for the first class are: Wangu, 
my, mine; wako, thy, thine; zvake, his (her, its); wetu, our; 
wenu, your; wao, their. For instance, Bibi wangu, my wife, 
or the wife is mine. lVapagaf;i wetu, our porters. Tembo wake, 
his elephant. 

3. The interrogatives are : Nani, who ? Lini, when ? Mini, 
what? Gani, what kind? Ngapi, how many? Wapi, where? 
They stand after the word they refer to; for instance, Svmba 
wapif Where is the lion? Wapagazi gani ninyi? What kind 
of porters are you ? 

4. The interrogative Which? is in singular Yiipif in plural 
Wapif For instance, Mtu yupif Which man? Tembo yupi 
wakof Which elephant is yours? 

5. Most of the numerals up to ten may be prefixed like ad- 
jectives, but they are also often used without any prefix, which 
is better than to add the wrong one. Half is miss; kumi na nuss, 
ten and a half, etc. 

1, moja. 7, saba. 

2, wili, or hili. 8, nane. 

3, tatu. 9, tissa, or kenda. 

4, nne. 10, kumi. 

5, tano. 11, Mumi na moja. 

6, sita. 12, kumi na bili. 

320 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

13, ku7ni na tatu, etc. 70, sabaini. 

20, asherini. 80, themanini. 

21, asherini na moja. 90, tissini. 

22, asherini na bili, etc. 100, mia, mia moja. 

30, thalathini. 200, who ;n6i7i. 

31, thalathini na moja, etc. 300, mia tatu, etc. 
40, arbaini. 1,000, elfu. 

50, khamsini. 2,000, ^//m m&tYt. 

60, sittini. 10,000, lakhi. 

6. The time is expressed by saa, watch ; saa sitfa, six o'clock ; 
saa nane na nuss, half past eight, etc. The Swahili time is six 
hours behind in reckoning; for instance, Saa sitta is 12 o'clock; 
saa saba, one o'clock ; saa kumi, four o'clock, etc. The question, 
What time is it, is expressed by Saa ngapi. For instance, Saa 
ngapi sasa? What time is it now? Saa tissa! It is nine o'clock, 
or according to European reckoning, three P. M. 

Exercises 
Translate into English: 

I. I. Mimi tayari sasa hivi. 2. Ambia mtu huyu nikuleta mi- 
kate sitta! 3. Wapagazi wangapi unataka, Bwana? 4. Mimi? 
Ninataka (nataka) watu kumi na saba. 5. Umekuja lini? 6. 
Mimi, niHkuja jana, saa tatu na nuss. 7. Bibi huyu nani? Bibi 
wangu, Bwana. 8. Watu, nyinyi wabaya sana. 9. Sisi? Ah, hap- 
ana, Bwana! 10. Ulitasama nyama mingi, gun bearer? 11. Ndio, 
niliwatasama kongoni sitta, vifaru tatu na simba moja. 12. Killa 
nyama wanasimama karibu ya milima huko. 13. Tutakwenda wa- 
kupiga, Bwana? 14. Ndio, nitakuja sasa hivi. Leta watu asherini 
na tano! 15. Tembo wangu mkubwa sana na ameanguka karibu 
ya campini. 16. Yeye mbaya sana, anataka mkupiga, Bwana! 17. 
Mpagazi, umefanya nini sasa? 18. Mimi? Sifanyi kitu (a thing). 

19. Bunduki gani hapa? Bunduki mkubwa wa tembo na 'faru. 

20. Unataka nini, Bwana? Sitaki kitu! 21. Wapagazi kumi na 
mbili walinisema, hawataka kwenda kesho, Bwana, si wazima. 22. 
Waambia kwenda sasa hivi ndani ya hema woa na pumzika. 23. 
Visu ngapi katika campi, Boy. 24. Sijui, Bwana, labda tissa. 25. 
Leta killa hapa ! 

321 



APPENDIX 



Translate into Swahili: 



J. I. How many animals have you shot? 2. I have killed six 
lions, seven elephants, four hippos, two leopards, three giraflFes, 
twenty-five hartebeests, and twelve rhinos. 3. All the people are 
coming back to camp. 4. Tell them to rest to-morrow. 5. I will 
eat my food now, boy, bring (it) at once. 6. Go quickly and shoot 
that animal. 7. What animal, Sir, I do not see anything? 8. A 
big river is near our camp, bring water at once. 9. Headman, tell 
twelve men to help carry the heavy skin to camp. 10. Very well, 
Sir, they are coming at eight o'clock (2 p.m.). ii. If your load is 
very heavy, ask two men to help you. 12. I do not know where the 
porters are now. 13. Are they down by the river? 14. We do not 
see them. 15. If you do not run, I shall beat you ! 16. I am not able 
to run. Sir, I am not well. 17. This porter has beaten two Masai 
warriors. 18. Now they will perhaps kill him. 19. Where is my 
guide? 20. I wish to know how many loads of food are in camp. 
21. What kind of a headman are you? 22. You do not know any- 
thing. 23. What do you want? 24. I want my food, Sir, the head- 
man did not give me. 25. Tell the gun bearer to give me my big 
gun right away. 

Lesson VI 

1. The comparative of the adjectives is generally formed by 
adding zayidi ya, more than, to the adjective ; for instance, 
Temho nyama mkuhwa nayidi ya simha, The elephant is an ani- 
mal larger than the lion, Mpagazi huyu mbaya zayidi ya yule, 
This porter is worse (more bad) than that. 

2. The superlative is mostly expressed by putting the words 
Sana, very much, or kabisa, exceedingly, after the adjective. For 
instance, Tembo mkubzva kabisa katika killa nyama, The ele- 
phant is the largest of all animals. Mpishi huyu nsuri sana. This 
cook is the very best. 

3. The ordinal numbers are expressed by putting wa in front 
of the number. For instance, Mtu wa tatu, the third man. 
Nilimpiga leo simba wa saba, I shot to-day the seventh lion. 

4. The verb ku-wa, to be, is in many respects irregular ; it is 

322 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

not used in the present tense, as before remarked, but, if it must 
be expressed, ni signifies am, is, and are, and si, am not, is not, 
and are not. 

Imperfect. 
nilikuwa (regular), / was. sikuwa (regular), / was not. 

Perfect. 

nimekuwa (regular), / have sikuwa (regular), / have not 
been. been. 

Future. 

nitakuwa (regular), / shall be. sitakuwa (regular), / shall not 

be. 

Imperative. 

uwe ! be! usiwel be not! 

mwe! be! (plural). msiwe! be not! (plural). 

5, The verb to have is expressed by ku-zvan-na, literally to 
be with, and forms the imperfect, perfect, and future tenses ex- 
actly as the verb kuzva, only adding -na at the end. For in- 
stance, Niniekuwa-na, I have had; tutakuwa-na, we shall have; 
hatutakiiwa-na, we shall not have, etc. The present is formed 
by simply adding the -na to the personal verb-prefixes Ni, u, a, 
etc., as before remarked; and the imperative of ku-wa is not 
used at all. 

Vocabulary 

siku, day. kibanda, vibanda, hut, house. 

nguo, clothes. kitambaa, vitam, towel, rag. 

kofia, hat. sabuni, soap. 

kilemba, vilemba, turban. kijiko, vijiko, spoon. 

shirti, shirt. uma, nyuma, fork. 

suruali, trousers. ku-osha, to wash. 

suruali ndogo, drawers. ku-oga, to bathe. 

socks, socks, stockings. ku-anika, to dry in the sun. 

bakuli, mabakuli, basin. mafuta, fat, grease. 

323 



APPENDIX 

ndoo, bucket. risassi, cartridge. 

kamba, rope, tzvine. nguvu, strong. 

mshipi, mishipi, belt. ku-jenga, to build. 

kiatu, viatu, boot, shoe. ku-shona, to saw. 

koti, coat. ashanti, thanks! 

Exercises 
Translate into English: 

K. I. Mpagazi huko nguvu zayidi ya huyu. 2. Simba kali za- 
yidi ya kiboko. 3. Anika ngoo wango leo nzuri sayidi ya yana ! 
4. Ndio, Bwana, nimefanya nzuri kabisa leo! 5. Umeosha suruali 
na koti wangu sasa, boy? 6. Killa nguo tayari, niliosha yana. 
7. Socks wangu nzuri kabisa. 8. Mtu huyu nguvu sana na anakula 
mingi. 9. Sema mpagazi wa tano atakuja hapa. 10. Nimekuw^a 
mzima yana, lakini leo siwezi. 11. Mnyampara huyu ni mtu v^^a 
sitta katika hema hapa. 12. Una risassi mingi wa. bunduki mkub- 
wa, gun bearer? 13. Hapana, Bwana, si mingi sasa, lazimo ku- 
nunnua ingine katika Nairobi. 14. Ndio, kesho nitanunnua risassi, 
viatu na mshipi. 15. Uwe nguvu sasa na mpiga mpagazi huyu! 
16. Ah, hapana, mnyampara, Bwana wangu hataki. 17. Hatuta- 
kuwana posho wa killa watu, kama hatununnui zayidi leo. 18. Ypi 
amejenga kibanda huko? 19. Sijui, labda Mzungo yule katika 
campi. 20. Boy, safisha sasa hivi sahani kwa sabuni, na kijiko na 
uma. 21. Ndoo na bakuli wapi? Nataka kuoga. 22. Leta suruali 
ndogo, viatu mkubwa na kofia, mimi nataka kwenda kupiga nyama. 
23. Killa kitu tayari, Bwana. 24. Ema, boy, sasa umefanya nzuri 
sana, nitakukupa rupia moja. 25. Ah, wewe nzuri kabisa, Bwana 
Mkubwa, ahsanti sana! 

Translate into Swahili: 

L. I. Where are my clothes, boy? Bring here the trousers, 
drawers, socks, small shoes and the hat. 2. I will at once go out to 
shoot animals. 3. What kind of animals do you like the most? 
4. I have told you that I want very much another lion, an elephant 
and a kongoni. 5. Very well, all the animals are here near by, but 
a lion, I do not know. 6. Tie the knife to my belt and give me many 
cartridges, gun bearer ! 7. Where is the long rope ? We had it yes- 
terday in the tent, but I do not know now where it is. 8. I believe 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

the headman has taken the rope into his tent. 9. When did you 
arrive in camp, porter? 10. I have been here the v^hole day, Sir. 
II. Headman, has this man been here all the day? 12. I do not 
know. Sir, I have not seen him. 13. Porter, you are very bad, I 
will not have you in my caravan. 14. Go and take your food and 
run away. 15. If you do not go at once, I shall send the soldier 
to beat you ! 16. Yes, Sir, I have been very bad, but now I shall 
be good. 17. All right, go and do your work now. 18. What work 
shall I do? 19. Help the headman to make the loads ready, we shall 
march on to-morrow. 20. Boy, bring here water, soap and a towel, 
I will now bathe. 21. When I have bathed, I want my food at once. 
22. See that the plate, fork, spoon and knife are very clean. 23. 
Have you not had your food to-day, guide? 24. Yes, thank you 
very much, I have eaten my posho. 25. Go now and sleep. 



Lesson VH 

1. The passive forms of the verbs are made by the insertion 
of a -IV- between the last two letters of the verb, but are other- 
wise exactly like the active tenses. For instance, Ninapiga, I 
love; Ninapigwa, I am being loved; Amepiga, he has shot; ame- 
pigwa, he has been shot, etc. Kongoni amcwwa na simba, the 
hartebeest was killed by the lion. Wapagam zvamepigwa tm 
askari, the porters have been beaten by the soldier. 

2. The Swahili is very fond of a special narrative tense, 
which includes the idea of " and " with a past tense ; this narra- 
tive tense is expressed by inserting -ka- between the personal 
prefix and the verb. For instance, Akakuja, akasema mimi tay- 
ari, and he cam.e and he said I am ready. Tiikakuja tiikaona ki- 
faru na tukampiga, and we came and we found a rhino, and we 
shot him. 

3. The infinitives of verbs are often used as substantives and 
are in English translated by the present participle or by the 
infinitive with to. For instance, Nafaka kupiga, I like shooting, 
or to shoot. Gunhearcr anapenda kusaiisha bunduki, the gun- 
bearer likes the cleaning of guns, or to clean guns. 



APPENDIX 

4. The syllable -ni attached to a substantive denotes in, at, 
around, by. For instance, campi, camp; campini, in, at, around, 
or by the camp. 

5. Most of the adverbs can be used as prepositions by add- 
ing the syllable ya to the word. For instance, Jiiu, above; juu 
ya nyumha, above the house, etc. 



Adverbs and Conjugations. 



juu, on top, above. 
mbele, before, in front. 
yakini, certainly. 
hatta, until, even. 
mbali, far, far off. 
nyuma, after, behind. 
chini, bclozv, at bottom. 
yamikini, possibly. 
halisi, exactly. 
upesi, fast, quickly. 
zamani, formerly. 
marra moja, immediately. 
mwisho, lastly. 

na, and, also. 
na-na, both, and. 
ao-ao, either, or. 
lakini, hozvever, but. 
illi, in order that. 
hatta, till. 



zayidi, more. 
sasa hivi, instantly. 
nje, outside. 
kweli, truly, sincerely. 
polepole, gently, slowly. 
ndani, inside, within. 
tu, merely, only. 
karibu, near. 
marra nyingi, often. 
halafu, presently, soon. 
ema (pron. yema), well, all 
right. 



kwamba, although. 

ilia, except. 

kama, kwamba, if, that, how 

that. 
wala-wala, neither, nor. 
na, kwa, to, with, together. 



Exercises 
Translate into English: 

M. I. Nimeambiwa kama mpagazi alimpiga mnyampara katika 
campi (or campini). 2. Nikamsema askari kumkamata mpagazi na 
kumpiga. 3. Sijui kama ninapendwa na watu wangu, lakini nina- 
sadiki. 4. Boy wangu anasema kama ameona kifaru amemwua 
kongoni. 5. Akamwambia gun bearer kama walikimbia wapagazi 
watano. 6. Ni mbaya kupigwa na mtu mkali. 7. Mto mkubwa si 

326 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

mbali ya campini, karibu sana, Bvvana. 8. Fanyeni kazi wao polepole 
sasa! 9. Njooni upesi na sayideni mnyampara ndani ya hema yake 
sasa hivi ! 10. Tasama maji chini ya ngozi wa simba, ni mbaya 
kabisa. 11. Wapagazi hawa ni wavivu sana, hawanataka kufanya 
kazi wao nzuri. 12. Unataka kupiga nyama wakubwa ? Ndio, kweli, 
nataka sana. 13. Tutakwenda sasa wapi? 14. Tutafika miti wakub- 
wa chini ya milima huko leo? 15. Ah, hapana, Bwana, njia mbali 
kabisa; labda tutafika kesho. 16. Wapi ngozi wa nyama, Mabruki, 
ni nje wa nyumba katika maji? 17. Mabruki hajui, mimi nitak- 
wenda na tasama, Bwana ! 18. Zamani we we uhfanya kazi wako 
nzuri lakini sasa mbaya. 19. Ao wewe ni mwivu sana ao si mzima, 
sijui. 20. Wala mimi na bibi wangu, wala wapagazi tunajua njia 
huko. 21. Njoo hapa, ilH nitakusema tutafanya nini sasa. 22. 
Walimwambia marra nyingi kama yeye mbaya, lakini hataki 
asikia. 23. Mizigo ngapi wa posho una sasa campini? Tatu tu, 
Bwana. 24. Simama hapa hatta mimi nakuja. 25. Na tembo na 
kifaru ni nyama wakubwa sana, na wakali kabisa. 

Translate into Swahili: 

N. I. My headman is very much beloved by all the porters in 
the caravan. 2. He is a very good man and I like him very much. 
3. The gun bearer came and told me to-day that we have not many 
cartridges in the camp. 4. And he said he would like to go and 
buy cartridges in Nairobi. 5. And he went and came back and 
gave me seventy-five. 6. Have you heard what this fellow has 
done, when he came in the tent yesterday? 7. No, what did he do? 
He is certainly not a bad man. 8. Truly, he is now not good and 
he likes to fight often with the men. 9. We are not much beloved 
by these people, but know we that we are good (to them). 10. For- 
merly there were many lions and rhinos here, but the foreigners 
have shot (at) them much. 11. They have all run away to the hills, 
where it is bad to go. 12. If what you say is true, we shall go with 
the caravan to-morrow. 13. Very well. Sir, I shall make all the 
men ready to-day. 14. We have not much posho now in camp. 
All the meat has been finished. 15. H we go out to shoot game to- 
day, you will tell ten men to go with us. 16. I and my best men 
shall go in front with the guns, and the caravan will go behind (us). 
17. Very well, we shall do what you say. Sir! 18. In the camp 



APPENDIX 

is now much water and grass, although it is on top of the hill. 
19. Will they arrive soon from the river? 20. We do not know, 
but think they will come to-morrow. 21. Where is the Masai 
guide ? I have not seen him to-day. 22. Here he is, Sir, he has eaten 
his food in the big tent. 23. Tell the truth (truthfully), do you 
know the path to the nearest water? 24. Yes, I am guide, I know 
all the paths here. 25. We will reach the water to-morrow, but 
it is quite far from here. 



Lesson VIII 

1. By prefixing m-, pa-, and ku- for the syllable -na (with), 
the following much used words are formed: Mna, here is (or, 
is there here?) ; pana and kuna, there is (or, is there there?) ; 
their negative form is, Hamna, here is not, or are not ; hapana 
and hakuna, there is not, or are not. These words are also used 
in the form of a question, Mna nyama, are here wild animals? 
The answer Mna means there are! Hamna, there are none! 
Hapana matunda, there is no fruit there. Hapana also stands 
for no and not. 

2. The usual Swahili greeting is a combination of the per- 
sonal verb prefixes and the word jamho, circumstance, matter. 
So, for instance, si jamho, I am well (literally I have nothing the 
matter with me) ; hu jamho, you are well, or are you well? etc.; 
hatujambo, we are well, or are we well; hawajamhof are they 
well, all according to the tone of voice. 

3. When Swahili people meet, they generally greet each 
other in the following way: Hn jamho? How do you do? Si- 
jamho! I am well! or Siwezi! I am ill! Then they say Hali-i 
ganif How are you? to which they answer either Ema sana, 
very well, or Siwezi, I am not well. 

Among interjections and other useful words are : 

4. Baado, afterwards, which is used for all sorts of expres- 
sions. For instance, if you ask: Is the food ready now? if it is 
not, the man will probably say Baado, Bwana! meaning Not yet, 

328 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

it will be though, presently ! Or if you ask : Have you finished 
your work? Umekwisha kam zvako? and he answers: Baado! 
it means that it is not yet finished, but that he is going to finish 
it some time. Baado corresponds in this respect to the Spanish 
" la manjana," or to the Russian " ce chass," freely translated, 
" some time in the future." 

5. The word bass, or bassi^ enough, is used also for " stop 
that ! " If, for instance, two men are fighting, a " bassi " from 
the Bwana will put an instant stop to it. If the boy is pouring 
in tea or water for you, and you do not want any more, bass is 
the word to use to imply that you have had enough. 

6. To signify something in the distance, the Swahili uses the 
word kule, which literally means there. If the object is about 
one hundred yards off or a little more, he says, " kule! " (with 
the accent sharply on the " e ") but pronounced in an ordinary 
pitch of voice. If the object referred to is half a mile away, he 
says again " kide! " but in a much higher pitch of voice, and 
dwelling much longer on the e. Should the animal or whatever 
the man is pointing out, be very far away, like distant hills, 
the Swahili will again use his " kide! " but with the voice at the 
very highest pitch, and at the same time dwell so long on the "e," 
that it sounds as if he had at least ten " e's " in his " ku- 
leeeeeeeeee " to pronounce. It is, therefore, really necessary to 
note in what pitch the word is pronounced, so as to be able to 
" judge the distance." 

7. The exclamation Hodi! (possibly translated hello! and 
pronounced with great stress on the " o "), must always be used 
before any tent or house, not one's own, is entered. It is very 
improper, and betrays in the eyes of the Swahili the greatest 
ignorance and bad breeding to enter without first calling, 
"Hodi!" The answer is generally simply, " Karibu!" Come 
near, come in! Then the stranger says, "Salaam!" Hail, or 
peace, if the occupant is Indian or Arab, or even an " educated " 
Swahili, otherwise he uses the regular greeting with Hujambo! 
etc. 

8. When an honored guest comes in, all the people in the 

329 



APPENDIX 



room generally get up to greet him; if he wants to prevent this 
— which he should do according to " etiquette " — he says : 
" Starehe, starehe!" Don't trouble yourselves! or Sit down, 
don't move! 

9. Good-bye is Kwa heri! and have a good night, or sleep 
well, lala nnuri! 

10, Some adjectives are taken from the Arabic and are al- 
ways indeclinable ; the most important of these are : 



amini, faitJiful. 
halali, lazvftil. 
haramu, forbidden. 
rahisi, cheap, easy. 
salama, safe, harmless. 
sahihi, correct, faultless. 



ghali, expensive. 
hodari, clever, able. 
lazimo, compulsory. 
rathi, content. 
safi, clean, pure. 
sunne, advisable. 



II. The Swahili verbs may be made reciprocal simply by 
changing the final -a into -ana; of, for instance, piga, is formed 
pigana, shoot — or beat each other; of ku-penda, love, ku-pen- 
dana, love each other, etc. Wapagazi wasayidiana kwa mizigo, 
Porters, help each other with the loads ! 



ku-kubali, to accept. 
ku-patana, to agree. 
ku-sadiki, to believe. 
ku-vunja, to break. 
ku-angalia, to take care of. 
ku-danganya, to cheat. 
ku-panda, to climb up. 
ku-shinda, to conquer, beat. 
ku-pindua, to overturn. 
ku-kataa, to refuse. 
ku-ngoja, to wait. 
ku-onana, to meet. 
ku-chinja, to kill for food. 
ku-sahau, to forget. 
ku-isha, to finish. 



ku-shtaki, to accuse. 
ku-sumbua, to annoy. 
ku-chemka, to boil. 
ku-teketeza, to burn. 
ku-kamata, to take hold of. 
ku-chagua, to choose. 
ku-karibia, to come near. 
ku-fikiri, to consider. 
ku-omba, to pray. 
ku-kaa, to remain. 
ku-tafuta, to search for. 
ku-tangulia, to go before. 
ku-ruka, to iiy. 
ku-samehe, to forgive. 
ku-tumaa, to hope. 



330 



THE KI-SWAHILI LANGUAGE 

gari, magari, railroad, carriage, mchele, rice. 

mrima, coast. barra, interior land. 

barua, letter. nyani, monkey. 

meza, table. leso, handkerchief. 

njaa, hunger. kiu, thirst. 

bandera, flag, banner. asali, honey. 

fimbo, cane, stick. darubini, fieldglasses. 

inchi, country, land. kuni, firewood. 

mbu, mosquito. pofu, eland. 

bakshish, present. serkali, government. 

Exercises 

Translate into English: 

O. I. Nasadiki sitaki kukubah kazi wako leo. 2. Boy wangu 
anakushinda sana, Juma. 3. Mbu mingi hapa, Bwana, watakusum- 
bua, usipigi hema wako chini ya mti mkubwa. 4. Panda kilima kule 
na tafuta nyama. 5. Kama unawaona, njoo marra moja na niambia. 
6. Gun bearer akakwenda, akatasama, akawaona, akamwambia 
Bwana wake. 7. Yeye akakwenda akawapiga kongoni wawili na 
pofu moja, akakuwa rathi sana. 8. Sikusikia kama mpishi amek- 
wisha kuchemka masiwa. Unajua wewe? 9. Baado, Bwana, lakini 
nitakwenda kutasama! 10. Ah, badoo kabisa, Bwana, labda tayari 
halafu nussu saa, sijui. 11. AnatanguHa nani huko? 12. Unani- 
taka kwenda kuuHza, Bwana? 13. Ah, hapana kitu, AH, nenda 
nikuleta askari moja na wapagazi sitta. 14. Kwa sababu nataka 
wakupeleka katika Nairobi. 15. Barua wako wapi, watu wanataka 
kwenda sasa? 16. Mna nyani katika inchi wa Kenia? Mna mingi 
kabisa, Bwana. 17. Nina njaa na kiu sana leo, leta upesi chakula, 
kama ni tayari. 18. Kamata leso na bandera na peleka hemani. 19. 
El-moran, unataka asali? Ah, sitaki, Bwana, sikuli asali. 20. 
Juu ya meza nini, boy? Fimbo wako na darubini, Bwana. 21. 
Hodi ! Karibu ! Salaam ! Salaam ! Haligani ? Ema sana ! 22. 
Starehe, starehe, mimi nataka kaa kitako! 23. Msipigana njiani 
na msipumziki, hatta mtafika bomani. 24. Wapagazi wameleta 
kuni mingi sasa? Ndio, Bwana, wameleta mingi kabisa na tuta- 
fanya moto mkubwa sasa hivi. 25. Ema sana, halafu wasema 
watu msifanyi kelele, nataka kulala. Kwa heri, Bwana Mkubwa, 
lala nzuri ! 



APPENDIX 



Translate into Szvahili: 



P. I. God will accept our prayer (sala) ; He will forgive and 
forget. 2. Do not annoy the animals, they will run away! 3. I 
will consider what you say. 4. Wait (plur.) here two hours, until 
the other porters arrive! 5. Do not remain here, because the water 
is very bad. 6. Turn the rhino over now, we must skin it at once. 
7. Sir, the men refuse to carry their loads up this hill, what shall 
I do? 8. Tell them that if they do their work well, I shall give 
them presents when we arrive in camp. 9. But if they will not 
obey, tell the soldiers to bind them, and I will send them to the 
government fort. 10. That will be enough, Sir, now they obey at 
once. II. What flies there, Mabruki? 12. Very large birds 
(ndege), and they are fighting each other. 13. Shall I shoot them 
for the cook? 14. Are there any lions here, guide? No, Sir, but 
there are elephants yonder, near the big mountain. 15. Good 
morning, Ali, how are you? 16. I am very well, Sir, and you? 
17. My faithful cook is safe in camp to-day, the lion did not kill 
him. 18. This food is not cheap, it is very expensive, I don't want 
it. 19. To shoot here is forbidden. 20. Tell the soldier to take 
hold of the beast. 21. Shall he kill it for food? Yes, and give it 
to the cook. 22. I want the whole caravan to go to the railroad 
to bring the skins and heads there and to buy food. 23. We must 
have sixty-five loads for the porters, and rice, sugar and milk for 
me. 24. After ten days I will finish my trip and go to the coast, 
but I will return here another year {niwaka) again. 25. This trip 
was very fine; I have shot many big animals, lions, elephants, 
rhinos, hippos, crocodiles, monkeys, girafifes, pigs, leopards, elands, 
hartebeests, gnus, and large birds, and all the time I was well. Now 
good-bye, all my men, good-bye. 

Safari wa Bwana X 
Translate into English: 

Bwana X. alitoka America, akakwenda Mombasa katika meli 
na alifika Nairobi kwa gari. Huko akaandika safari mkiibwa, 
akakamata AH wa mnyampara ; boy wake Mohammed, mtu wa 
mrima, gun bearer wawili, mpishi moja, askari sitta na wapagazi 
khamsini. Bwana alitaka kwenda Laikipia, kwa sababu alitaka 
kupiga nyama mingi na wakubwa. Akakaa siku sitta tu katika 



THE KI-SWAHILI L'ANGUAGE 

Nairobi, halafu killa safari akakwenda katika Fort Hall. Karibu 
wake aliwapiga kiboko na mamba watatu. Kama safari akafika 
Laikipia, wakafanya kampi mkubwa sana. Killa siku Bwana alik- 
wenda kuwinda nyama, akawapiga mingi; simba, tembo, vifarii, 
choroa, wapofu, twiga, nyati, nyani, fissi, chui, na ndege mingi na 
wakubwa. Katika Laikipia jua si kali sana, maji nzuri, na mbu 
hapana. Bwana alikuwa mzima sana na rathi kabisa, kwa sababu 
aliweza kurudi na ngozi na pembe mingi. Halafu alikaa Mombasa 
siku nne tu, akarudi Ulaya katika meli mkubwa. Akafika nyumba 
wake, akawaona bibi na watoto wake wazima, akafuraha sana 
akamwambia ahsanti kwa Muungu. 



23 



11. KEY TO THE EXERCISES 



A. I. The big man has shot a Hon. 2. The woman loves (her) 
child. 3. Butler, where is the knife? 4. In the house, Sir. 5, 
Bring the knife and the gun here. 6. Yes, Sir. 7. I have seen a 
large elephant in the grass. 8. Where is the caravan? 9. Here, 
near by. Sir. 10. Bring the food, butler; a knife, plate and a glass. 
II. The lion is a dangerous animal. 12. Put the tent up here! 
13. I want tea, sugar and milk, butter, bread and salt! 14. Butler, 
bring the water here. 15. Yes, Sir, instantly, 16. The gun is not 
in the house, it is here in the tent. 17. The master and (his) wife 
are here in the grass and want (their) food. 18. Is the meal ready, 
butler? 19. Yes, it is ready now. 20. The severe master has 
beaten (his) boy much. 21. Bring the gun, I see a lion here near by. 
22. The elephant likes water. 23. I have seen a big man here in 
the tent, and he has shot an animal with the gun. 24. Where is 
the sugar, bread, tea and milk? 25. The food is here. Sir. 

B. I. Mtu aliona simba karibu ya nyumba. 2. Boy, leta 
chakula; nataka chai, mkate, siagi na masiwa sasa hivi. 3. Ndio, 
Bwana, chakula tayari katika nyumba. 4. Ema! 5. Safari wapi 
sasa? 6. Karibu, Bwana, karibu! 7. Naono (or ninaoma) tembo 
katika maji. 8. Hapana, Bwana, si tembo. 9. Wapi bunduki, kisu 
na hema? 10. Hapa, Bwana. 11. Chakula si nzuri, leta sahani 
na kisu. 12. Nataka kupiga simba sasa hivi. 13. Wapi simba 
sasa? 14. Karibu katika majani katika maji. 15. Mtoto aliona 
bibi katika nyumba. 16. Bwana, chakula tayari sasa; kahawa, 
sukari na masiwa kwa mkate. 17. Nataka sana maji, masiwa na 
kisu. 18. Umeona bibi hapa? 19. Hapana, Bwana, bibi si hapa; ni 
katika hema. 20. Unataka chakula sasa hivi? Ndio, leta hapa, 
sasa. 21. Tembo na simba ni nyama kali. 22. Boy, piga hema 
hapa na leta maji. 23. Naona nyama katika majani, leta sasa hivi 

334 



KEY TO THE EXERCISES 

bunduki na kisu. 24. Ndio, Bwana, ni hapa. 25. Ema, boy, 
sasa nataka safari. 

C. I. The tall people have brought the knives here. 2. The 
child has three bedsteads in the house. 3. Bring at once five ar- 
rows. 4. What do you say? 5. I say, I want my food in my tent 
now. 6. Yes, Great Master, I will bring (it). 7. The stout cooks 
have cleaned my cups. 8. The big foreigner has seen his wife here 
near by. 9. Do you fear the tall man? 10. The door of my house 
is heavy. 11. Butler, my cup is not clean. 12. Yes, Sir, I will 
clean (it). 13. What is the caravan doing now? 14. Eating 
(their) food in the tent; the food is of the meat of the thick hip- 
popotamus, Sir, 15. The knife's handle is not beautiful. 16. How 
many people are in your caravan? 17. I have five people now. 

18. My child is not well. 19. My cofifee is not sweet, I want sugar 
and milk in the cup. 20. I have seen one elephant, two lions and 
five hippos, and I have shot the elephant, one lion and one hippo. 

21. Where is my gun? Is it clean? Yes, Sir, I have cleaned (it). 

22. Is your load heavy? No, Sir, it is fine. 23. Where are the five 
children? Here in the grass, and they are eating meat, tea, milk 
and bread. 24. Child, clean your hands instantly and bring the 
comb here. 25. Have you seen the new book by the door? Yes, 
Sir, I will bring (it). 

D. I. Mtoto wangu ana kitabu nzuri katika mkono. 2. Tembo 
watatu na viboko wanne ni katika maji. 3. Simba ngapi umepiga? 
4. Nimepiga simba wanne kwa bunduki wangu na boy wangu 
amepiga moja kwa mshale. 5. Alisema bibi wako? 6. Alisema 
anataka chakula sasa hivi. 7. Boy, leta kioo na kitana. 8. Nat- 
asama Mzungu katika mlango wa nyumba wangu ; anataka nini ? 
9. Kitendo wako mbaya, mtoto wangu. 10. Chai wako ni tamu? 
Hapana, leta sukari ! 11. Kamata hema na piga hapa! 12. Ndio, 
Bwana, wana mizigo sitta. 13. Boy, unafanya nini hapa? Bwana, 
ninasafisha bunduki na kisu wangu. 14. Ema, gunbearer wapi ? 
Katika hema, Bwana, na anakula chakula wake sasa. 15. Unao- 
gopa simba? 16. Kamata kipini na leta hapa! 17. Mzigo mzito 
sasa? Hapana, Bwana, ni upesi. 18. Leta wato watatu sasa hivi! 

19. Vitu ngapi katika hema sasa? 20. Tuna vitu wanne, vitanda 
wiwili na kioo moja. 21. Vilima ngapi hapa? 22. Ninaona tano; 

335 



APPENDIX 

moja mkubwa sana na nne ndogo. 23. Mtoto wangu ana vifungo 
watano wazuri. 24. Vitendo wao si wazuri, watu wangu ! 25. 
Umepiga hema wangu wapi? Ni karibu ya maji? 

E. I. Boy, tell the caravan headman to help the porter to carry 
the load. 2. A European has arrived in the camp ; he wants to buy 
food. 3. Oh, I don't want to sell now. 4. Headmen and gun- 
bearer, come here, I want to shoot a hartebeest. 5. The porters are 
very lazy. 6. Ask the soldier here where my knife is. 7. Sir, the 
soldier says he does not know. 8. Will the caravan reach there 
to-day? I do not know. Sir, perhaps. 9. Near the water here I see 
a crocodile and hippos. 10. Headmen, bring the porters right away. 
I want to shoot the rhino, and the people shall carry the skin and 
the horn. 11. Climb up on the hill and look around, perhaps there 
are animals there. 12. Yes, Sir, I see a lion and a rhino there near 
the hill. 13. I want to buy food for the people. 14. To-morrow 
we shall go on with the caravan. 15. Where are the gun bearer 
and the boy now? 16. Ask the boy what he is doing. 17. Sir, he 
says he is cleaning the gun. 18. Very well, tell the cook that I 
want to eat the food. 19. What do you want, Sir? 20. I want 
tea, bread, butter, meat and salt. 21. Where is my wife? In 
the house, Sir. 22. Down at the mountain over there I see an 
eland. 23. Boy, help the gun bearer to clean the guns. 24. Shall 
the cook cook the food now? 25. One man has fallen down 
here. 

F. I. Gun bearer, sema watu wangu kupanda kilima na kuua 
kongoni. 2. Pima simba sasa hivi ! 3. Karibu ya maji naona tem- 
bo anasimama. 4. Boy, leta bunduki na kisu na sema gun bearer 
kwenda hapa! 5. Ndio, Bwana, anakuja sasa. 6. Mnyampara, 
wapagazi wapi? 7. Labda nitarudi katika Nairobi kesho. 8. Boy, 
chakula tayari sasa ? 9. Hapana, Bwana, si chakula hapa sasa. 10. 
Utakwenda kununnua? 11. Hapana, sitaki wewe kwenda, sema 
mnyampara kununnua! 12. Kongoni sasa wapi, gun bearer? 13. 
Sijui, Bwana, labda ameanguka. 14. Hapana, Mabruki, naona 
nyama karibu ya kilima mkubwa. 15. Umeona simba leo? 16. 
Hapana ona nyama. 17. Askari hapa sasa? 18. Sijui, Bwana. 

19. Amsha wapagazi sasa hivi, nataka kusayidia Mzungu huko. 

20. Mpishi ni ndani ya hema; uliza kama chakula tayari! 21. 

33^ 



KEY TO THE EXERCISES 

Mtu mbaya hataki kusayidia bibi wake. 22. Atafika hapa kesho, 
labda, sijui. 23. Umesafisha bunduki na kisu. 24. Ndio, Bwana, 
ni tayari sasa. 25. Ema, kula chakula sasa hivi. 

G. I. Did you see a lion here? 2. Yes, I have seen him 
near the mountain there. 3. They answered the people right away. 
4. We will beat the naughty child in the tent to-morrow. 5. Have 
you seen the animals there ? 6. Yes, Sir, I am seeing now a harte- 
beest, a lion and a rhino. 7. Are they near? 8. No, Sir, they are 
not near. 9. If you want the meal now, I will bring it. 10. If the 
rhino goes away I will not shoot him. 11. Come here, all ye people, 
I will give you posho under the big tree there. 12. If you do not 
clean the gun, I will hit you. 13. These people are not good. 14. 
I did not shoot the lion to-day near the mountain there. 15. If 
you see the elephant near by, tell me right away. 16. I want to go 
and shoot many animals now. 17. What are the people eating, 
headman? Oh, Sir, there is lots of food to-day, meat of harte- 
beest and oryx. 18. Do the people want the posho now? 19. If 
they come we will give them money : 20. What do you want, boy ? 
21. Sir, I want work. 22. What kind of work do you want? 23. 
Oh, Sir, I want v^^ork as gimbearer or guide. 24. I have engaged 
all my people, now I don't want another. 25. I am very sorry,. 
Sir, I know many kinds of work ; engage me. 

H. I. Nitampiga mbwa kama hangalikuja. 2. Kiboko alikuja 
juu ya maji. 3. Unaweza kumwona, boy. 4. Hapana, Bwana, 
siwezi ! 5. Unataka kumpiga sasa hivi ? 6. Ndio, nileta bunbuki 
mkubwa na kisu mrefu ! 7. Ndio, Bwana, ni hapa sasa. 8. Wap- 
agazi wapi ? Ni karibu ya kampi ? 9. Nenda na mwuliza mnyam- 
para. 10. Bwana, ahsema hajui wapi sasa. 11. Mfunga kifaru 
ndogo kwa kamba, ataka kukimbia! 12. Njooni hapa, killa watu, 
nataka wakuona ! 13. Nataka kuacha kampi kesho na kwenda katika 
mto mkubwa. 14. Ema, Bwana, tutafanya killa kitu tayari. 15. 
Safari si hapa, mnyampara? Wanataka kufika sasa hivi. 16. 
Alisema hukupiga simba. 17. Nilimwambia kukimbia upesi sana, 
lakini hakutaka. 18. Yeye mvivu ao hawezi? 19. Sijui, Bwana, 
nasadiki alikula chakula wake. 20. Hatutapiga nyama hapa, wa- 
mekimbia. 21. Sikia, ungalikuja hapa ningalikukupa posho. 22. 
Kama ungalisikia simba, nisema marra moja! 23. Wapagazi, 

337 



APPENDIX 

msimwui kiboko ndogo, mfungeni ! 24. Bwana, hawakuja hapa, 
hawataka kumsayidi gun bearer. 25. Waambia kama hawangali- 
kuja, singaliwakupa chakula kesho. 

I. I. I am ready right away. 2. Tell that man to bring me six 
loaves of bread. 3. How many porters do you want, Sir? 4. I? 
I want seventeen. 5. When have you come? 6. I? I came yes- 
terday, half past three (9:30 a. m.). 7. Who is this woman? My 
wife, Sir. 8. Men, you are very bad. 9. We? Oh, no, Sir! 10. 
Did you see many animals, gun bearer? 11. Yes, I saw six harte- 
beests, three rhinos and one lion. 12. All the animals were stand- 
ing near the mountain there. 13. Shall we go to shoot them. Sir? 
14. Yes, I will come at once; bring twenty-five people. 15. My 
elephant is very large, and he has fallen near the camp. 16. He 
is very bad, I want to beat him, Sir. 17. Porter, what are you 
doing now? 18. I? I am not doing anything. 19. What kind of 
gun is here? The big gun for elephants and rhinos. 20. What do 
you want. Sir? I don't want anything. 21. Twenty-two porters 
told me they don't want to march to-morrow. Sir, they are not 
well. 22. Tell them to go instantly into their tent and rest. 23. 
How many knives are there in camp, boy? 24. I do not know, 
Sir, perhaps nine. 25. Bring them all here. 

J. I. Nyama ngapi umepiga? 2. Nimepiga simba sitta, tembo 
saba, viboko wanne, chui wawili, twiga watatu, kongoni asherini 
na tano na vifaru kumi na mbili. 3. Killa watu wanarudi kampini. 
4. Waambia kupumzika kesho. 5. Nataka kula chakula sasa, boy, 
leta sasa hivi ! 6. Nenda upesi na piga nyama yule. 7. Nyama 
nani ? Huoni kitu. 8. Mto kbubwa ni karibu ya kampi yetu, leta 
maji marra moja! 9. Mnyampara, ambia wato kumi na mbili kus- 
ayidi kuchukua ngozi mzito katika kampini. 10. Ema, Bwana, 
wanakuja saa nane. 11. Kama mzigo wako mzito sana, uliza watu 
wawili kukusayidi. 12. Sijui wapi watu sasa. 13. Ni chini ya 
mto? 14. Hatuwaoni. 15. Hungalikimbia ningalikupiga ! 16. 
Siwezi kukimbia, Bwana, si mzima. 17. Mpagazi huyu amewapiga 
El-moran wa Masai wawili. 18. Sasa watamwua labda. 19. Kiron- 
gozi wangu wapi? 20. Nataka kujua mizgo wa psoho ngapi katika 
kampi. 21. Mnyampara gani, wewe? 22. Hujui kitu! 23. 
Unataka nini? 24. Nataka chakula wangu, Bwana, mnyampara 

338 



KEY TO THE EXERCISES 

hakupupa. 25. Ambia gun bearer kunileta bunduki wangu mkubwa 
sasa hivi. 

K. I. The porter over there is stronger than this man. 2. The 
lion is more dangerous than the hippo. 3. Dry my clothes to-day 
better than yesterday. 4. Yes, Sir, I have done it very vrell to-day. 
5. Have you washed my trousers and coat now, boy? 6. All the 
clothes are ready, I washed them yesterday. 7. My socks are very 
fine. 8. This man is very strong and he is eating much. 9. Tell 
the fifth porter to come (that he will come) here. 10. I was well 
yesterday, but to-day I am sick. 11. This headman is the sixth man 
in the tent here. 12. Have you many cartridges for the big gun, 
gimbearer? 13. No, Sir, there are not many now. It is necessary to 
buy others in Nairobi. 14. Yes, to-morrow I will buy cartridges, 
shoes and a belt. 15. Be strong now, and beat this porter. 16, Oh, 
no, headman, my master does not like it. 17. We shall not have food 
for all the people if we do not buy more to-day. 18. Who is building 
a house there? 19. I do not know, perhaps that white man in the 
camp. 20. Boy, clean the plate instantly with soap and also the 
spoon and the fork. 21. Where are the bucket and the basin? I 
want to bathe. 22. Bring the drawers, the big boots and the hat, 
I want to go out and shoot animals. 2^. Everything is ready. Sir. 
24. Very well, boy, now you have done very well. I will give you 
one rupee. 25. Oh, you are exceedingly kind, great master, thank 
you very much. 

L. I. Nguo wangu wapi, boy? Leta suruali, suruali ndogo, 
socks, viatu ndogo na kofia ! 2. Nataka kwenda kupiga nyama sasa 
hivi. 3. Nyama gani unataka sana? 4. Nimekuwambia kama nat- 
aka Sana simba ingine, tembo na kongoni. 5. Ema, nyama yote ni 
hapa karibu, lakini simba, sijui. 6. Funga kisu katika mshipi wan- 
gu na nipe (nikupa) risassi mingi, gun bearer. 7. Kamba mrefu 
wapi? Tulikuwana yana katika hema, lakini sijui sasa wapi. 8 
Nasadiki mnyampara amekamata kamba katika hema yake. 9 
Umefika kampi lini, mpagazi? 10. Nilikuwa hapa killa siku 
Bwana. 11. Mnyampara, mtu huyu alikuwa hapa killa siku? 12 
Sijui, Bwana, simkuona. 13. Mpagazi, wewe mbaya sana, sikutaki 
katika sa fari wangu. 14. Nenda, kamata posho yako no kimbia 
15. Hungalikwenda sasa hivi, ningalipeleka askari kukupiga. 16, 

339 



APPENDIX 

Ndio, Bwana, nilikuwa mbaya sana, lakini sasa nitakuwa nzuri 
Sana! 17. Ema, nenda na fanya kazi wako sasa! 18. Kazi gani 
utafanya? 19. Msayidia mnyampara kufanya mizigo tayari, tuta- 
safiri kesho. 20. Boy, leta hapa maji, sabuni na kitambaa, nataka 
kuoga sasa. 21. Ningalioga ningalitaka chakula marra moja! 22. 
Tasama kama sahani, uma, kijiko na kisu ni safi sana! 23. Huku- 
wana posho wako leo, kirongozi ? 24. Ndio, ahsanti sana, nimekula 
posho wangu. 25. Sasa nenda na lala ! 

M. I. I have been told that a porter beat the headman in 
camp. 2. Tell the soldier to get hold of the porter and beat him. 
3. I do not know if I am liked by my people, but I think so. 4. My 
boy says that he has seen a rhinoceros kill the hartebeest. 5. Tell 
the gun bearer that five porters ran away. 6. It is bad to be 
beaten by this severe man. 7. The big river is not far from camp, 
it is very near, Sir. 8. Do your work very carefully now. 9. Come 
quickly (plur.) and help the headman in his tent right away. 10. 
Behold the water under the lion skin, it is exceedingly bad. 11. 
These porters are very lazy, they do not want to do their work well. 
12. Do you want to shoot the big animals? Yes, truly, I want 
very much (to do so). 13. Where shall we go now? 14. Will we 
arrive at the big trees at the foot of the mountain over there? 15. 
Oh, no, Sir, the road is very far, perhaps we will reach (it) to- 
morrow. 16. Where are the animal skins, Mabruki? Are they 
outside the house in the water? 17. Mabruki does not know, I 
will go out and see, Sir. 18. Formerly you did your work well, 
but now, poorly. 19. Either you are very lazy or you are not well, 
I do not know. 20. Neither I and my wife nor the porters know 
the road there. 21. Come here in order that I may tell you what 
you shall do now. 22. I have told him many times that he is bad, 
but he does not want to obey. 2^. How many loads of posho have 
you now in camp? Only three. Sir. 24. Stay here until I come. 
25. Both the elephant and rhino are very big animals, and they 
are exceedingly fierce. 

N. I. Mnyampara wangu anapendwa sana na killa wapagazi 
katika safari. 2. Yeye mtu nzuri sana, na nitampenda sana. 3. 
Gun bearer alikuja akanisema leo kama hatukuwana risassi mingi 
katika kampi. 4. Akasema akataka kwenda kununua risassi kat- 



KEY TO THE EXERCISES 

ika Nairobi. 5. Akakwenda akarudi akanikupa sabini na tano. 6. 
Umesikia amefaya nini huyu, kama alikuja katika hema yana? 7. 
Hapana, ulifanya nini? ' Yeye si mtu mbaya. 8. Kweli, sasa si nzuri 
na anataka sana kupigana kwa watu marra nyingi. 9. Hatiipendwa 
sasa na watu hawa, lakini tunajua sisi tunakuwa nzuri. 10. Zamani 
hapa simba na vifaru mingi, lakini Wazungu wamewapiga sana. 

11. Wamekimbia yote katika mlima, wapi kwenda ni mbaya. 12. 
Kama ungalisema kweli, tutasafiri kesho. 13. Ema, Bwana, ni- 
tafanya killa watu tayari leo. 14. Hatukuwana posho mingi kampi 
ni sasa, nyama yote amekwisha. 15. Kama tungalikwenda kupiga 
nyama leo, ungaliwambia watu kumi kwenda na sisi. 16. Mimi na 
watu wangu wazuri sana tutatangulia kwa bunduki na safari atak- 
wenda nyuma. 17. Ema, tutafanya unasema nini. 18. Katika 
kampini sasa maji na majani mingi, kwamba ni juu ya kilima. 19. 
Watafika karibu katika mtoni? 20. Hatujui, lakini tunasadiki 
watakuja kesho. 21. Kirongozi wa Masai wapi? Simkumwona leo. 
22. Yeye hapa, Bwana, anakula posho wake katika hema mkubwa. 
2^. Sema kweli, unajua njia katika maji karibu sana? 24. Ndio, 
mimi kirongozi, najua killa njia hapa. 25. Tutafika maji kesho, 
lakini mbali kwa hapa. 

O. I.I believe I will not accept your work to-day. 2. My boy 
exceeds (beats) you by far, Juma, 3. There are many mosquitoes 
here. Sir. They will annoy you, don't put your tent under the big 
tree. 4. Climb up on the hill over there, and look out for game. 
5. If you see any, come at once and tell me. 6. And the gunbearer 
went and looked around and saw them and told his master. 7. And 
he went and he shot two kongoni and one eland, and he was very 
well satisfied. 8. I have not heard if the cook has finished to boil 
(boiling) the milk. Do you know? 9. Not yet. Sir, but I will go 
and see. 10. Oh, not for a long while. Sir, perhaps it is ready 
after half an hour, I do not know. 11. Who is going ahead there? 

12. Do you want me to go and ask. Sir? 13. Oh, no matter, AH, 
go and bring me one soldier and six porters. 14. Because I want 
to send them to Nairobi. 15. Where is your letter, the people want 
to go now. 16. Are there monkeys in the district of Kenia? There 
are exceedingly many, Sir. 17. I have great hunger and thirst, 
bring the food quickly if it is ready. 18. Take the handkerchief and 
the flag and put them in the tent. 19. Warrior, do you want some 



APPENDIX 

honey? Oh, I don't want it, Sir, I do not eat honey. 20. What is 
on the table, boy? Your cane and the fieldglasses, Sir. 21. Hello! 
Come in ! Hail ! Peace ! How are you ? Very well. 22. Don't 
bother, don't move. I want to sit down. 23. Do not fight with 
each other on the road, and do not rest until you reach the fort. 
24. Have the porters brought lots of firewood now? Yes, Sir, 
they have brought exceedingly much, and we will make a big fire 
right away. 25. Very well, afterwards tell the people not to make 
any noise, I want to sleep. Good-bye, Great Master, sleep well. 

P. I. Muungu atakubali sala wetu; atasamehe na atasahau. 
2. Usiwasumbua nyama ! Watakimbia. 3. Nitafikiri unasema nini. 
4. Ngojeni hapa saa mbili, hatta wapagazi ingine watafika! 5. 
Usikai hapa, kwa sababu maji mbaja sana. 6. Pindua kifaru sasa, 
lazimo tunamchuna marra moja! 7. Bwana, watu wanakataa ku- 
chukua mizigo wao yuu ya kilima ule, utafanja nini? 8. Waambia 
kama tunafanya kazi wao nzuri, nitawakupa bakshishi, kama tunga- 
lifika kampini. 9. Lakini kama hawataka sikia, wasema askari wa- 
funga na nitawapeleka katika boma wa serkali. 10. Bassi, Bwana, 
sasa watasikia marra moja! 11. Anaruka huko, Mabruki? 12, 
Ndege (birds) wakubwa sana na wanapigana. 13. Utawapiga kwa 
mpishi? 14. Kirongozi, mna simba hapa? Hapana, Bwana, lakini 
tembo karibu ya milima mkubwa kule. 15. Hujambo, Ali, haligani? 
16. Sijambo sana, nawe? 17. Mpishi wangu amini ni salama katika 
kampi leo, simba hamkuua. 18. Posho huyu si rahisi, ni gahali 
sana, sitaki ! 19. Kupiga hapa, haramu. 20. Ambia askari kum- 
kamata nyama! 21. Atamchinja? Ndio, na mkupa mpishi. 22. 
Nataka killa safari kwenda na garri kupeleka ngozi na kitchwa huko 
na kununnua posho. 23. Lazimo sisi kuwana mizigo sittini na 
tano kwa wapagazi, na mchele, sukari na maziwa kwa mimi. 24. 
Halafu siku kumi nitakwisha safari wangu na kwenda katika mrima, 
lakini nitarudi hapa mwaka ingini tena. 25. Safari huyu nzuri 
sana; nitawapiga nyama wakubwa mingi, simba, tembo, vifaru, vi- 
boko, mamba, nyani, twiga, nguruwe, chui, pofu, kongoni, nyumbo, 
na ndege wakubwa, na killa siku nilikuwa mzima. Sasa kwa heri, 
killa watu wangu, kwa heri ! 



III. SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY^ 



Abadan, always, constantly. 
Acha, ku-, to leave, let go, allovj. 
Adabu, good tnanners, politeness. 
Adui, enemy. 

Afu, ku-, to save, to deliver. 
Aga, ku-, to take leave of, to agree 

with. 
Ahsanti, thanks, thank you. 
Aina, kind. 

Akali, some few, some. 
Akili, intelligence, wits. 
Alama, mark. 
Allah, God. 
Amani, peace, safety. 
Ambia, ku-, to tell, to say to. 
Amerikano, American sheeting. 
Amini, or Aminifu, trustworthy, 

faithful. 
Amka, ku-, to awake. 
Amsha, ku-, to waken, cause to 

awake. 
Andika, ku-, to describe, write, 

employ. 
Angalia, ku-, to look attentively, 

observe, beware of. 
Angika, ku-, to hang up, hang 

against a wall. 
Anguka, ku-, to fall down. 
Anika, ku-, to spread out to dry. 
Anza, ku-, to begin. 



Ao, or. 

Ao — ao, either — or. 

Apisha, ku-, to make to swear, to 

adjure. 
Ariaa, lower! let out the rope! 
Asali, sirup, honey. 
Askari, soldier. 
Assubui, in the morning. 
Aza, ku-, to ponder, think. 
Azizi, rarity, curiosity. 

B 

Baa, mabaa, worthless person, rep- 
robate, disaster. 

Baado, afterwards. 

Baba, father. 

Badili, ku-, to change, exchange, 
alter. 

Bado, not yet, afterwards. 

Bado kidogo, soon. 

Bahari, sea. 

Bakuli, mabakuli, basin. 

Balaa, sorrow. 

Bamba, mabamba, plate. 

Bandera, Hag. 

Banzi, mabanzi, splint, a small thin 
piece of wood. 

Bara, or barra, wild country, in- 
land. 

Barafu, ice, snow. 

Baraka, blessing, progress. 



' See Lesson II, paragraph i , and its vocabulary. 

343 



APPENDIX 



Barasi, disease. 

Baruti, gunpowder. 

Bass, or bassi, enough, it will do. 

Bastola, pistol. 

Bata, niabata, duck. 

Batili, ku-, to annul, to reduce to 
nothing. 

-baya, bad. 

Bega, mabega, shoulder. 

Biashara, trade, commerce. 

Bibi, wife, woman. 

Bilauri, drinking glass. 

Billa, except by. 

Bin, son (Arab). 

Binti, daughter. 

Bithaa, goods, merchandise. 

-bovu, rotten, had, m^ilicious. 

Boga, maboga, pumpkin, vege- 
tables. 

Boma, maboma, rampart, fort, gov- 
ernment building. 

Boni, ostrich. 

Boriti, rafter, thick pole. 

Boy, butler, servant. 

Bubu, mabubu, dumb. 

Buli, mabuli, teapot. 

Bunduki, gun. 

Buni, coffee berry. 

Burre, for nothing, in vain. 

Bustani, garden. 

Busu, kiss. 

Busu, ku-, to kiss. 

Bwana, master, lord, sir. 

-bili, or -wilij two. 



Campi, campini, camp, at, by or in 

the camp. 
Chacha, ku-, to ferment. 
Chafu, machafu, cheek. 
Chai, tea. 
Chakaa, ku-, to become worn out. 



Chakula, food, meal. 

Changanya, ku-, to mix. 

Chango, vyango, peg to hang 
things upon. 

Chavu, vyavu, net. 

Cheka, ku-, to laugh, laugh at. 

Cheo, vyeo, measurement, length, 
breadth, station. 

Cherevu, cunning, subtlety. 

Cheti, vyeti, bill, passport. 

Cheza, ku-, to play, dance. 

Chimba, ku-, to dig. 

Chini, down, bottom, below. 

Chini ya, under, below. 

Chinja, ku-, to cut, slaughter ani- 
mals, kill for food. 

Chiti, note of hand, note of any 
kind. 

Choka, ku-, to become tired. 

Choma, ku-, to stab, stick, prick, 
dazzle. 

Chombo, vyombo, vessel, pot. 

Choroa, oryx. 

Chovu, weary, tired. 

Chui, leopard. 

Chukia, ku-, to he disgusted at, 
hate. 

Chukiza, ku-, to disgust, offend. 

Chukua, ku-, to carry. 

Chula, vyula, frog. 

Chuma, vyuma, iron, a piece of 
iron. 

Chumba, vyumba, room. 

Chumvi, salt. 

Chuna, ku-, to skin, to flay. 

Chunga, ku-, to pasture, tend ani- 
mals. 

Chungu, vyungu, earthen cooking 
pot. 

Chungu, heap, pile. 

-chungu, hitter. 

Chuo, vyuo, book. 



344 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



D 

Dacha, ku-, to drop. 

Dafu, madafu, cocoanut, for drink- 
ing. 

Damu, blood. 

Danganya, ku-, to cheat, humbug, 
impose upon. 

Daraja, step, staircase, bridge. 

Dari, roof, upper floor. 

Darubini, field glass, telescope. 

Dau, madau, native sailboat. 

Dawa, medicine. 

Desturi, custom, customs. 

Dini, religion, worship. 

Dira, compass. 

Dirisha, madirisha, window. 

Dobi, washerman. 

-dogo, little, small, young. 

Donda, madonda, large sores. 

Dondoro, Dyker's antelope. 

Doti, loin cloth. 

Dudu, madudu, insect, insects. 

Duka, maduka, shop, store. 

Dun, a fine. 

Duni, below, less, inferior. 

Dunia, the world, this world. 



-ekundu, red. 

-ema, good, kind, all right. 

-embamba, narrow, thin, slim. 

Embe, mango. 

Enda, kw-, to go. 

-eupe, white, clear, clean. 

-eusi, black, dark colored. 



Fa, ku-, to die, perish, fade away. 
Fagia, ku-, to sweep. 
Fakiri, a poor person, beggar. 
Fanya, ku-, to make, do, mend. 



Fay i da, profit, gain, interest. 

Fetha, silver, money. 

Ficha, ku-, to hide. 

Figa, mafiga, fire-stones (to sup- 
port the cooking pot). 

Fika, ku-, to arrive. 

Fikiri, ku-, to consider. 

Fimbo, stick. 

Fisi, hyena. 

Frasi, horse, mare. 

Fuja, ku-, to waste, leak. 

Fuko, mafuko, a large bag. 

Fukuza, ku-, to drive away, chase. 

Fundi, skilled workman, teacher. 

Funga, ku-, fasten, tie, bind, im- 
prison. 

Fungua, ku-, unfasten, open, let 
loose. 

Funua, ku-, to uncover, open a book. 

Funza, maggot, jigger. 

Fupa, mafupa, large bone. 

-fupi, short. 

Furaha, joy, pleasure. 

Fusi, rubbish. 

Futa, ku-, to wipe. 

Fuzi, mafuzi, shoulder. 

G 

Galawa, canoe. 

Gani? what? what kind? 

Gari, magari, carriage. 

Gawanya, ku-, to divide, to share. 

-geni, foreign, strange. 

Gereza, fort, prison. 

Geuza, ku-, to change, turn. 

Ghafala, suddenly. 

Ghali, dear. 

Ghatabu, anger, passion. 

Giza, darkness. 

Gombana, ku-, to quarrel. 

Gombeza, ku-, to forbid. 

Gote, magote, knee. 



345 



APPENDIX 



Gugu, magugu, undergrowth, 

weeds. 
Gusa, ku-, to touch. 

H 

Habari, news, message, story. 
Ha-ifai ! it is of no use! never 

mind ! 
Haja, request, need. 
Halafu, afterwards, presently. 
Halali, lawful. 

Hali, state, condition, health. 
Hamna, there is not, or are not, no. 
Hapa, here, this place. 
Hapana, there is not, no. 
Haraka, haste. 
Haraka, ku-, to make haste. 
Haramu, unlawful, prohibited. 
Hari, heat, perspiration. 
Haribu, ku-, to destroy, spoil. 
Hariri, silk. 
Hasira, anger, wrath. 
Hasira, ku-, to injure. 
Hatta, till, until, even. 
Haya, these. 
Haya ! Work away ! Be quick ! 

Come along! 
Hema, tent. 

Hila, device, stratagem, deceit. 
Hisa, pardon, permission. 
Hodari, strong. 
Hodi! hello! 
Homa, fever. 
Hua, dove. 
Hujambo? Are you well? How 

do you dof 
Huko, there, at a distance. 
Huru, free, not a slave. 



He, that yonder. 

Ilia, except, unless, hut. 



lUi, in order that. 

Imba, kw-, to sing. 

Imbu, mosquito, mosquitoes. 

Inchi, land, country, earth. 

Ingia, ku-, enter, go or come into. 

Ini, maini, liver. 

Inshallah, if God will, perhaps. 

Inua, ku-, to lift, lift up. 

Inzi, mainzi, a fly. 

Ipi? what? 

Isha, kw-, to finish, come to an 

end. 
Ita, kw-, to call, name, invite. 



Jaa, ku-, to become full, fillj 

abound with. 
Jambo, mambo, matter, thing, 

affair. 
Jana, yesterday. 
Janga, punishment. 
Jaribu, ku-, to try. 
Jicho, plur. macho, the eye. 
Jifu, majifu, ashes. 
Jina, majina, name. 
Jina lako nani? IVhat is your 

name? 
Jino, meno, tooth, twist or strand 

of rope. 
Jisu, majisu, a very large knif 
Jiwe, majiwe, a piece of stone. 
Jombo, majombo, an exceedingly 

large vessel. 
Jua, majua, the sun. 
Jua, ku-, to know, how, under- 
stand, know. 
Jugo, ground nuts, peanuts. 
Juma, a week. 

el juma, Friday, corresponding 
to our Sunday. 
Juma mosi, Saturday. 
Juma pili, Sunday. 



346 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



Juma tatu, Monday. 

Juma 'nne, Tuesday. 

Juma tano, Wednesday. 

Jumla, sum, total, addition {arith- 
metic). 

Juu, up, the top, on the top. 

Juu ya, upon, above over, on the 
top of, against. 

Juzi, the day before yesterday. 

K 

Kaa, ku-, to sit, dwell, stay. 

Kaanga, ku-, to fry, cook with fat. 

Kabla, before. 

Kahawa, coffee. 

-kali, cruel, dangerous, sour, sharp, 

severe. 
Kama, as, as if, like, if, supposing. 
Kamata, ku-, lay hold of, seise, 

grasp. 
Kamba, rope. 
Kamili, perfect, complete. 
Kana, ku-, to deny. 
Kanga, guinea fowl. 
Kaniki, dark blue calico. 
Kanisa, plur. makanisa, church. 
Kanzu, long, shirtlike garment. 
Kapu, plur. makapu, large basket. 
Karatasi, paper. 

Karibu, near, come near, come in. 
Karibu ya, near by. 
Kasha, makasha, chest, large box. 
Kata, ku-, ctit, clip, divide. 
Katika, on, by, at, among, from, 

in, about. 
Kauka, ku-, to get dry, dry. 
Kazi, work, labor, employment. 
Kelele, makelele, noise, uproar, 

shouting. 
Kem? How much? How many? 
Kengele, bell. 
Kero, trouble, disturbance, uproar. 



Kesho, to-morrow. 
Kesho kutwa, the day after to- 
morrow. 
Khabari, news, information. 
Khalas ! the end, finish ! there is no 

more. 
Khamse, five. 

el Khamse, Thursday. 
Khamsini, fifty. 
Kiapo, viapo, ordeal, oath. 
Kiatu, shoe, boot, sandal. 
Kiazi, viazi, sweet potato. 
Kibaba, measure for porters' po- 

sho. 
Kibanda, vibanda, hut, hovel, shed. 
Kibanzi, vibanzi, splinter, small 

piece of wood. 
Kibao, vibao, shelf, small plank. 
Kiberiti, viberiti, matches. 
Kiboko, hippopotamus. 
Kifaru, vifaru, rhinoceros. 
Kifungo, vifungo, button. 
Kijana, vijana, youth, boy or girl, 

son or daughter. 
Kijiko, vijiko, spoon. 
Kijito, vijito, small stream, brook. 
Kikapu, vikapu, basket. 
Kikombe, vikombe, cup. 
Kile, that, yonder. 
Kilemba, vilemba, turban. 
Kilima, vilima, hill. 
Killa, all, every. 
Kima, monkey. 
Kimaji, damp. 
Kimanda, omelette. 
Kimbia, ku-, run away, flee. 
Kimbiza, ku-, to make to run away, 

to put to Hight. 
Kingalingali, on the back. 
Kinge, too little. 
Kinoo, vinoo, whetstone. 
Kinu, vinu, wooden mortar, mill. 



347 



APPENDIX 



Kioo, vioo, glass, mirror. 

Kipande, vipande, piece, instru- 
ment. 

Kipele, vipele, pimple. 

Kipini, vipini, handle, hilt. 

Kipofu, vipofu, blind person. 

Kiroboto, viroboto, flea. 

Kisa, visa, cause, reason. 

Kishoka, vishoka, hatchet. 

Kisibao, visibao, waistcoat. 

Kisima, visima, a well. 

Kisiwa, visiwa, island. 

Kisu, visu, knife. 

Kitabu, vitabu, book. 

Kitanda, vitanda, bedstead, couch. 

Kitana, vitana, comb. 

Kitanzi, vitanzi, loop, button-loop. 

Kitendo, vitendo, action. 

Kiti, viti, chair, seat. 

Kitu, vitu, thing. 

Kitunguu, vitunguu, onion. 

Kitwa, vitwa, head. 

Kiu, thirst. 

Kivi, vivi, elbow. 

Kivuko, vivuko, ford, ferry, cross- 
ing place. 

Kivuli, vivuli, shadow, ghost. 

Kizibo, vizibo, stopper, cork. 

Kiziwi, visiwi, deaf person. 

Kizungu, a European language. 

Kofi, makofi, the flat of the hand. 

Kofia, cap, hat. 

Kokoto, makokoto, S7nall stone, 
small piece of stone. 

Kombe, makombe, large dish. 

Kondoo, sheep. 

Kongoni, hartebeest. 

Koo, makoo, throat. 

Kororo, crested guinea fowl. 

Koru, zuafer buck. 

Kosa, ku-, to make a mistake, do 
wrong, blunder. 



Koti, coat. 

Kubali, ku-, accept, acknowledge, 
approve. 

-kubwa, large, great, chief. 

Kufuli, padlock. 

Kuku, hen, fozvl, poultry. 

-kukuu, old, worn out. 

Kule, there, far off, yonder. 

Kulee, yonder, very far off. 

Kumbuka, ku-, to remember, pon- 
der over. 

Kumbusha, ku-, to remind. 

Kumi, makumi, ten. 

Kunde, beans. 

Kungu, mist, fog. 

Kunguru, crow, raven. 

Kuni, firewood. 

Kunja, ku-, to fold, wrap up. 

Kupe, tick, cattle tick. 

Kusanya, ku-, to collect, gather, 
assemble. 

Kutt, ku-, to meet with, see, 
find. 

Kutu, rust. 

-kuu, great, chief, noble. 

Kwa, with, for, on account of. 

Kwake, to him, with him, to our, 
at his or her house. 

Kwako, to or with thee, to or at 
thy place. 

Kwamba, if, as if, though, that. 
ya kwamba, that. 

Kwangu, to or at my house, to or 
with me. 

Kwanza, beginning, at first, for- 
merly. 

Kwao, to or with them, at or to 
their place. 

Kweli, true, sincerely, the truth. 

Kwetu, to or with us, to or at our 
place. 

Kwiba, or ku-iba, to steal. 



348 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



La, no. 

La, ku-, to eatj consume, wear 

away. 
Labda, perhaps. 
Laini, smooth, soft. 
Cakini, hut, however. 
Lakki, a hundred thousand. 
Lala, ku-, to sleep, to lie down. 
Lazima, necessity, it is necessary. 
Leo, to-day. 
Leso, handkerchief. 
Leta, ku-, to bring, send, fetch. 
Lewa, ku-, to become drunk. 
Lia, ku-, to cry, weep, cry out. 
Lima, ku-, to cultivate, hoe. 
Linda, ku-, to guard, watch, keep. 
Lindi, malindi, pit, deep place. 
Lini ? When? 
Lisha, ku-, to feed. 
Liwa, ku-, to be eaten, worn away. 

consumed. 
Lozi, almond. 
Lulu, pearl. 
Lumba, ku-, to make a speech. 

M 

Maagano, contract, agreement, 

covenant. 
Maasi, rebellion. 
Madevu, beard. 
Mafuta, oil, fat, grease. 
Mafuu, crazy, cracked. 
Magugu, weeds, undergrowth. 
Mahindi, Indian corn, maize. 
Majani, grass. 

Maji, water, liquid, juice, sap. 
Majibu, answer. 
Makasi, scissors. 
Makosa, fault, mistake. 
Mali, goods, property, riches. 
Mamba, crocodile. 



Maneno, language, message, busi- 
ness. 

Mapatano, agreement, conspiracy. 

Mapema, early. 

Mapigano, liking, pleasure, love. 

Mapululu, wilderness. 

Marra, sometimes, at once. 

Marra moja, once, at once. 

Marra nyingi, often. 

Mashua, boat, launch. 

Masikini, poor, a poor person. 

Maua, flowers. 

Mavi, dung, excrement. 

Mawe, stones, stone. 

Maziwa, milk. 

Mbali, far off, separate. 

Mbega, colobus monkey. 

Mbele, before, in front, farther on. 

Mbele ya, in front of. 

Mboga, vegetables. 

Mbuyu, mibuyu, baobab tree, cala- 
bash tree. 

Mbuzi, goat. 

Mbwa, dog. 

Mchafu, filthy. 

Mchawi, wachawi, wizard. 

Mchele, cleaned grain, especially 
rice. 

Mchunga, wachunga, herdsman, 
groom. 

Mchwa, white ants. 

Mdomo, midomo, lip. 

Meli, ship, mail steamer. 

Mrima, the mainland, especially 
the coast. 

Meza, table. 

Mfalme, wafalme, king. 

Mfuko, mifuko, bag, pocket. 

Mfupa, mifupa, bone. 

Mgongo, migongo, hack, backbone. 

Mguu, miguu, leg, foot. 

Mia, hundred. 



24 



349 



APPENDIX 



Mimi, /, me. 

Mingi, many. 

Miwani, spectacles. 

Mjeledi, whip. 

Mji, town, city, village. 

Mjinga, wajinga, simpleton, fool. 

Mjusi, wajusi, lizard. 

Mkate, mikate, cake, loaf. 

Mkeka, mikeka, fine sleeping mat. 

Mkia, mikia, tail. 

Mkono, mikono, arm, hand, sleeve. 

Mkubwa, great. 

Mkuke, mikuke, spear. 

Mkuu, wakuu, great man, chief. 

Mlango, milango, door, gate. 

Mle, there within. 

MIevi, walevi, drunkard. 

Mlezi, walezi, nurse, children's 
nurse. 

Mlima, milima, mountain. 

Mlinzi, walinzi, guard. 

Mna, there is within, or is there? 

Mnazi, minazi, cocoanut tree. 

Mno, exceedingly, excessively. 

Mnyampara, caravan headman. 

Mnyororo, minyororo, chain, 
chain-gang of prisoners. 

Moja, mamoja, one, same. 

Moshi, mioshi, smoke. 

Moto, mioto, fire, heat. 

Moyo, mioyo or nyoyo, heart, 
mind, will, self. 

Mpagazi, wapagazi, caravan por- 
ter. 

Mpaka, mipaka, boundary, limit 

Mpaka, until, as far as. 

Mpira, India rubber. 

Mpishi, wapishi, cook. 

Mpofu, or pofu, wapofu, eland. 

Msafara, or safari, caravan. 

Mshahara, mishara, monthly pay, 
wages. 



Mshale, mishale, arrow. 

Mshipi, mishipi, belt, girdle. 

Msiba, misiba, calamity, grief. 

Mstari, mistari, a line. 

Msuaki, misuaki, tooth stick. 

Msumeno, misumeno, a saw. 

Mtai, scratch, a slight cut. 

Mtama, millet. 

Mtego, mitego, trap. 

Mti, miti, tree, pole, wood. 

Mto, mito, river, stream — pillow, 
cushion. 

Mtoto, watoto, child. 

Mtu, watu, person, man, some- 
body. 

Mtumbui, mitumbwi, canoe. 

Mtungi, mitungi, water-jar. 

Mtupa, mitupa, euphorbia tree. 

Mua, niiwa, sugar cane. 

Muhindi, wahindi, Indian Mussul- 
man, corn plant. 

Mume, male. 

Muungu, God. 

Mvita, mombasa. 

Mvua, rain. 

Mvuke, vapor, steam. 

Mvulini, in the shade. 

Mwaka, miaka, year. 

Mwalimu, waalimu, teacher. 

Mwamba, miamba, rock. 

Mwana, waana, mistress, matron. 

Mwavuli, miavuli, umbrella. 

Mwendo, going, gait, journey. 

Mwenyi, having, possessing. 

Mwezi, moon. 

Mwiba, miiba, thorn. 

Mwili, miili, body. 

Mwinda, wawinda, hunter. 

Mwisho, miisho, end, conclusion. 

Mwitu, forest. 

Mwongo, wawongo, liar, false per- 
son. 



350 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



Mzee, wazee, old person. 
Mzigo, mizigo, burden, load. 
Mzinga, mizinga, big gun, cannon. 
Mzungu, wazungu, European, 
white man. 

N 

Na, and, also, with. 

Nami, and I, or with me. 

Nao, and or with them, it. 

Nawe, and thou, with thee. 

-na-, sign of the present tense. 

Na — na, both — and. 

Naam or na'am, yes, I am here. 

Na, kwa, too, with, together. 

Nafasi, space, room, time, oppor- 
tunity. 

Nanazi, mananazi, pineapple. 

Nane, eight. 

Nani? Whof 

Nasibu, luck, fortune. 

Nazi, cocoanut, fully ripe nut. 

Ncha, point, end, tip, strand. 

Ndani, within, inside. 

Ndani ya, inside of. 

Ndege, bird, omen. 

Ndio, yes. 

Ndizi, banana, plantain. 

Ndoo, pail, bucket. 

Nena, ku-, to speak, name, men- 
tion. 

-nene, thick, stout, fat, complete. 

Neno, maneno, word, thing. 

Ngoja, ku-, to wait, wait for. 

Ngoma, drum, native dance. 

Ngfombe, ox, cow, bull, cattle. 

Ngozi, skin, hide, leather. 

Nguo, cotton, cloth, clothes. 

Nguruwe, pig, swine. 

Nguvu, strength, power, authority. 

Ni, is, are. 

Nina, / have. 



Nini? What? 

Ninye, ye, you. 

Njaa, hunger, famine. 

Nje, outside, forth. 

Njia or Ndia, way, path, road, 

means. 
Njoo, come. 
-'nne, four. 
-nene, fat. 

Nuele or Nyele, hair. 
Nuka, ku-, to give out a smell, 

stink. 
Nungu, porcupine. 
Nunua, ku-, to buy. 
Nuru, light. 

Nusa, ku-, to smell, scent. 
Nuss, or nusu, or nussu, half. 
Nyama, meat, animal, beasts. 
Nyani, ape, apes. 
Nyasi, grass, reeds. 
Nyati, buffalo. 
Nyika, wilderness, plains. 
Nyinyi, you (plur.). 
Nyoka, snake, serpent. 
Nyota, star. 
Nyuki, bee. 
Nyuma, at the back, afterwards, 

behind. 
Nyuma ya, behind, after. 
Nyumbo, wildebeest, gnu. 
Nyumbu, mule. 
Nyundo. hammer. 

O 

Oga, ku-, to bathe. 
Ogopa, ku-, to fear, be afraid. 
Oka, ku-, to bake, cook. 
Okoka, ku-, to be saved, to escape. 
Okota, ku-, to pick up. 
Omba, ku-, to pray to, beg of, be- 
seech. 
Ona, ku-, to see, find, feel. 



351 



APPENDIX 



1 



Onana, ku-, to meet. 

Ondoka, ku-, to go away, get up, 

break camp. 
Ongeza, ku-, to increase, add to. 
Onja, ku-, to taste, try, examine. 
Onyesha, ku-, to show. 
-ororo, soft, smooth. 
Osha, ku-, to wash. 
Ota, ku-, to dream, to grow. 
Oza, ku-, to rot, spoil, go bad. 



Pa, ku-, to give, present with. 

Paa, gazelle. 

Pafu, mapafu, lungs. 

Pahali, place, at the place. 

Paka, mapaka, cat. 

Pale, there, that place. 

Palepale, just there, at that very 

spot. 
Pamba, cotton. 
-pana, broad, wide. 
Panda, ku-, to mount, get up, 

climb, ride, go on board or 

ashore. 
Panya, rat. 
Papa, shark. 

Papayi, mapapayi, papaws, com- 
mon kind of fruit. 
Parafujo, screiv. 
Pata, ku-, to get, reach, succeed, 

happen to. 
Patana, ku-, to agree. 
Pembe, ku-, horn, corner, 
Penda, ku-, to like, love, choose, 

prefer, wish. 
Pepo, spirit, wind. 
Piga, ku-, to strike, beat, Hap, 

shoot. 
Piga hema, ku-, to pitch the tent. 
Piga kelele, ku-, to shout. 



Piga mbio, ku-, to run, gallop. 

Piga teke, ku-, to kick. 

Piga na, ku-, to fight. 

Pika, ku-, to cook. 

Pili, a large kind of snake. 

Pilipili, pepper. 

Pima, ku-, to measure, weigh. 

Pindua, ku-, to turn over, upset 

Pipa, mapipa, barrel, tub, pipe. 

Pita, ku-, to pass, excel. 

Pofu, eland. 

Polepole, gently, moderately, 

quietly. 
Pombe, native beer. 
Ponda, ku-, to pound, crush. 
Ponya, ku-, to cure, save, rescue. 
Posho, rations, food. 
Potelea, ku-, to perish, be lost. 
Pua, nose. 

Pumzika, ku-, to rest. 
Punda, donkey. 
Punda milia, zebra, 
Pungua, ku-, to diminish, waste. 
-pya, new, fresh. 



R 

Rafiki, a friend, friends. 

Rakhisi, or rahisi, cheap. 

Rangi, color, paint. 

Rasassi, or risassi, bullet, cartridge. 

Rathi, satisfied, content, blessing. 

-refu, long. 

Roho, soul, spirit, breath, life. j 

Rudi, ku-, to return, correct, keep f 
in order, punish. 

Rudisha, ku-, to make to return, to 
give back, repay. 

Ruka, ku-, to fly, leap. 

Ruksa, or ruhusa, leave, permis- 
sion, liberty. 

Rungu, club, mace, knobstick. 



352 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



Saa, hour, clock, watch. 

Saa ngapi ? What o'clock is it? 

Sala, masala, question, prayer. 

Saba, seven. 

Sababu, cause, reason. 

kwa sababu, because of, because. 
Sabuni, soap. 
Sadaka, offering, ahns. 
Sadiki, ku-, to believe. 
Safari, journey, voyage, caravan. 
Safi, pure, clean, neat. 
Safiri, ku-, to travel, set out, sail. 
Safisha, ku-, to make pure or 

clean. 
Saga, ku-, to grind. 
Sagai, spear. 
Sahani, plate, dish. 
Sahihi, correct, right. 
Salaam, compliments, safety, peace, 

greeting. 
Salama, safe, safety. 
Samaki, fish. 

Samli, ghee, clarified butter. 
Sana, very, much. 
Sasa, now. 

Sasa hivi, directly, at once. 
Sauti, voice, sound, noise. 
Sawasawa, like, alike, even, all the 

same, level. 
Sayidia, ku-, to help. 
Sema, ku-, to say, talk, speak. 
Serkali, court, government. 

mtu wa serkali, a man in the 
government employ. 
Seta, ku-, to crush. 
Shaba, copper, brass. 
Shamba, mashamba, plantation, 
Shauri, mashauri, advice, counsel, 

plan. 
Sheria, law, 
Shidda, difficulty, distress. 



Shimo, mashimo, pit, excavation, 
large hole. 

Shinda, ku-, to overcome, conquer, 
beat, stay. 

Shindilia, ku-, to load- a gun. 

Shingo, mashingo, neck. 

Shirti, shirt. 

Shoka, mashoka, ax. 

Shona, ku-, to sew. 

Shtaki, ku-, to charge, accuse. 

Shughuli, ku-, business, affairs, 
engagement. 

Shusha, ku-, to let down, land 
goods from a ship. 

Si, is not, or are not. 

Siafu, reddish ant, that bites 
fiercely. 

Siagi, cream, butter. 

Si fa, praise, character, character- 
istic. 

Si fa, ku-, to praise. 

Sijambo, / am well. 

Sikia, ku-, to hear, listen to, obey, 
understand. 

Sikitika, sorry, sad. 

Sikitikia, ku-, to be sorry for, pity. 

Siku, day, days. 

Simama, ku-, to stand up, stop, be 
erect, cost. 

Simba, lion, lions. 

Similla ! simille ! similleni ! make 
way! get out of the way! 

Sindano, or shindano, needle, 

Sisi, we, us. 

Sisi sote, all of us. 

Sita, six. 

Sittini, sixty. 

Siwezi, / am not well. 

Socks, socks. 

Soko, masoko, market, bazaar. 

Soma, ku-, to read, perform devo- 
tions. 



353 



APPENDIX 



Soruali, trousers. 

Ssafi, or safi, pure, clean. 

Starehe ! don't disturb yourself, 
don't get up ! 

Sufuria, cooking pot. 

Sukari, sugar. 

Sumbuka, ku-, to annoy, to he an- 
noyed. 

Sumu, poison. 

Sunni, advisable, meritorious. 



Taa, lamp, lantern. 

Taajabu, ku-, to wonder, he aston- 
ished. 

Tafuta, ku-, to look for, seek, 
search for. 

Taka, ku-, to want, wish for, ask 
for. 

-tamu, sweet, pleasant. 

Tandika, ku-, to spread the table. 

Tanga, matanga, sail. 

Tangu, since, from. 

Tangu lini ? Since when, how long 
ago? 

Tangulia, ku-, to precede, go be- 
fore. 

Tano, or tanu, five. 

Taraja, ku-, to hope, expect. 

Tasama, ku-, to see, look for. 

Tatu, three. 

Tatua, ku-, to tear. 

Tawanya, ku-, to scatter. 

Taya, jaw, jawbone. 

Tayari, ready. 

Tazama, ku-, to look, observe. 

Tega, ku-, to set a trap, snare. 

Teketeza, ku-, to burn, consume. 

Tele, plenty, abundantly. 

Tembo, elephant, also palm wine. 

Tena, afterwards, again, further. 

Tende, date, dates. 



Tengeneza, ku-, to finish off, put 
to rights, fix. 

Thaifu, weak, infirm, bad. 

Thalathini, thirty. 

Thambi, sin. 

Themanini, eighty. 

Thuru, ku-, to harm, injure. 

Tia, ku-, to put, pour. 

Tissa, nine. 

Tissini, ninety. 

Toa, ku-, to put out, blow out. 

Toka, ku-, to go or come out or 
away from, go free. 

Tokosa, ku-, to hoil, cook by boil- 
ing. 

Tombo, quail. 

Tone, matone, drop. 

Toroka, ku-, to run away from a 
master or home. 

Tota, ku-, to sink, he drowned. 

Tu, only, merely, only just. 

Tufe, ball. 

Tumaini, ku-, to be confident, 
hope. 

Tumbako, tobacco. 

Tumbo, matumbo, stomach, belly. 

Tunda, matunda, fruit. 

Tunza, ku-, to care of, look after. 

Tupa, matupa, file, bottle. 

-tupu, bare, empty. 

Twaa, ku-, to take. 

Tweka, ku-, to raise, take up. 

Twiga, giraffe. 

U 
Ua, ku-, to kill. 
Ubau, mbau, plank. 
Ubishi, joke. 

Uchawi, witchcraft, black magic. 
Ufu, death, the state of being 

dead. 
Ufungu, relatives. 



354 



SWAHILI-ENGLISH VOCABULARY 



Ugali, porridge. 

Uguza, ku-, to take care of a sick 

person. 
Uhuru, freedom. 
Ukucha, kucha, nail, claw, hoof. 
Ule, that, yonder. 
Ulimi, ndimi, tongue, heel of a 

mast. 
Uliza, ku-, to ask, inquire of a 

person. 
Uma, nyuma, a spit, fork, azvl. 
Uma, ku-, to bite, sting, hurt, 

ache. 
-ume, male, strong. 
Umeme, lightning. 
Una, you have, thou hast. 
Una nini? What is the matter 

with you? 
Unene, stoutness, thickness. 
Unga, Hour, powder. 
Unguja, Zanzibar. 
Upana, width, breadth. 
Upande, pande, a side, part. 
Upanga, panga, sword. 
Upele, pele, large pimple. 
Upepo, pepo, wind, cold. 
Upesi, quickly, lightly, fast. 
Upindi, pindi, bow. 
Usiku, night. 
Uvuli, shade, shadow. 
Uwingu, mbingu, heaven, sky. 
Uza, ku-, to sell. 
Uzuri, beauty, fineness, ornament. 

V 
Vema or ema (pron. yema), well, 

very well. 
Viberiti (plur. of kiberiti), 

matches. 
Vilevile, just those things, in like 

manner. 
-viva, idle, dull, slow. 



Vua, ku-, to undress, to take 

across a river, to fish. 
Vuke, steam, vapor, sweat. 
-vungu, hollow. 
Vunja, ku-, to break, ruin, spoil, 

change a piece of money. 
Vuta, ku-, to draw, pidl. 

W 

Waka, ku-, to blase, burn up, burn. 

Wake, or wakwe, his, hers, its. 

Wako, thy, your. 

Wala — wala, neither — nor. 

Wale, those yonder. 

Wall, cooked grain, especially 
rice. 

Wali, governor. 

Wana, they have. 

Wanda, ku-, to have, hold. 

Wanda, nyanda, finger, a finger's 
breadth. 

Wangu, my. 

Wao, they. 

Wapi? Where? Which people? 

Waraka, nyaraka, letter. 

Washenzi, wild people, uncivilized 
people. 

Wasi, rebellion. 

Watu (plur. of mtu), people. 

Wawili, two, tzvo persons. 

Weka, ku-, to place, lay, keep, de- 
lay. 

Weye ! you ! it is you ! 

Weza, ku-, to be able. 
siwezi, / a sick, I cannot. 

-wili, or bili, two. 

Winda, ku-, or winga, ku-, to hunt. 

Wino, ink. 

-wivu, jealous, ripe. 

Wongo, falsehood, lie. 

Wote, all, both. 



355 



APPENDIX 



Yabis, or yabisi, dry, solid. 
Yakini, certainly, certainty, it is 

certain. 
Yamkini, possibly. 
Yayi, mayayi, egg. 
Yule, that, that person. 



Zaa, ku-, to bear, breed, bear fruit. 
Zaidi, or Zayidi, more. 
Zaiiwa, ku-, to be born. 
Zamani, times, long ago, formerly. 
Zayidi, more. 

-zima, sound, whole, healthy, com- 
plete. 



Zima, ku-, to extinguish, put out. 

-zito, heavy, difficult, severe, sad, 
clumsy. 

Zua, ku-, to pierce, bore, invent. 

Zulia, ku-, to invent, to lie, tell 
falsehood. 

Zulu, ku-, to be crazy. 

Zumbua, ku-, to find. 

Zunguka, ku-, to go round, sur- 
round, revolve, wander. 

Zungusha, ku-, to make to go 
round, to turn. 

-zuri, fine, beautiful, good, hand- 
some. 

Zuzuka, ku-, to be bewildered, to 
lose one's head. 



INDEX 



Aberdare Mountains, 5, 9, 301. 

Abyssinia, 211. 

Ainsworth, H. M. Commissioner, 

272. 
Albert Nyanza, 93. 
American Museum of Natural His- 
tory, collecting specimens for, 
25-26. 
Americano, 7. 
Antelopes, 16. 

characteristics of, 152-153. 

diminishing herds of, 154. 

habitat of, 153. 

Hunter's, 16. 

roan, \6off. 

sable, 165-166. 
Arabia, 32, 184. 
Asgar, 36, 37, 39. 
Asiatic elephant, 52, 53. 
Askaris, 22. 
Athi Plains, 2, 197. 

game on, 2. 

hunting on, 4, 82, 169. 
Athi River, 90, 154, 237. 

B 

Baboons, 9. 

destructiveness of, 222. 

habits of, 221. 
Baker, Sir Samuel, 88. 
Bantu race of negroes, 245. 
Baringo, Lake, 8, 124, 237. 

district of, 174. 



Barker, Mr., 81. 
Barnet, Mr. and Mrs., 8. 
Black snake (poisonous), 234. 
Bongo, 6, 9, 16. 

British East Africa, climate and 
topography of, i. 

diminishing game of, 300, 303. 

game laws of, 13-19. 

hunting grounds in, 2, 5-12. 

rainfall in, 2. 

scanty population of, 254. 

seasons in, 13. 

variety of game in, 302. 
Buffalo, 6, 9, 12, 15. 

appearance of, size of, etc., 104-105. 

Cape, habitat of, 103, 106. 

Congo, Abyssinian, Senegambrian 
and gray, 103. 

habits of, 106. 

hunting of, 107, 109. 
Bush buck, 6, 9, 12, 17, 180. 
Bush pig, 9. 

giant, 222,. 

habits of, characteristics of, etc., 
222. 
Bustard, giant, size of, habits of, etc., 

239- 
smaller species of, 240. 



Cape buffalo, 6, 9, 12, 15, lo^ff. 
Cape Colony, 167, 173, 201. 
Caravan, almost lost, 197^. 
Central Africa, 113, 181. 
Chameleon, 235. 



357 



INDEX 



Cheetah, or hunting leopard, 35, 122. 

characteristics of, habitat of, 123. 

encounters with, 124, 126. 

food of, 123, 128. 

size of, habits of, etc., 128. 

wonderful eyesight of, 126. 
Colbus defassa, new subspecies, 

Collyer, Mr. C, 8, 273. 
Colobus monkey, 6, 9, 17. 

characteristics of, 219. 

habitat of, 218. 

habits of, 218, 220. 

white, 219. 
Congo Free State, 20. 
Crane, crested, 244. 
Crocodile, 6, 8, 9, 235. 

kills rhino, 235. » 

man-eater, killed, 237. 

missionary killed by, 236. 

precautions against, 238; 

skin of, 238. 

D 

Dead thrown to wild beasts, 117, 215. 

Denby, Colonel, testimony of, 267. 

Dik-dik, 17, 180. 

Donga, 45- 

Dress of natives, 246, 247, 249, 250, 

253, 260. 
Ducks, wild, 243. 
Dugmore, Mr. Radcliflfe, 277. 
Duiker, blue, 17. 

Harvey's, 16. 

Isaac's, 17. 



Eglon, Mountain, 10, 301. 

Egret, 17. 

Eland, 2, 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 16. 

description of, 156. 

domestication of, 160. 

flesh of, 159. 

habitat of, 154. 

habits of, 154-156, 158. 

hunting of, 157, 159. 



Elephant, 9, 12, 15. 

combat of, with rhino, 72,. 

encounters with, 59, 62, 66. 

eyesight of, 66. 

food of, 54. 

habitat of, 55. 

habits of, 53, 60, 71, "jt,. 

native hunting of, 71. 

tracking of, 56-59. 

two species of, 52. 
Elmenteita, Lake, 206, 214, 240. 
Engimma, 217. 

Expedition, first to East Africa, 25, 
48, 62-66, yy, 133, 137, 143-146, 
185, 204. 



Fish eagle, 16. 

Flamingo, 237, 244. 

Fort Baringo, 174. 

Fort Hall, 6. 

Foster, Honorable John W., testi- 
mony of, 267. 

Funza, method of attack of, pre- 
cautions against, 3. 



Game birds, quality of flesh of, 238. 
Game laws, 13-19. 
Gardomurtu River, 83. 
Gazelles, description of, habits of, etc., 
188-191. 

Grant's, 2, 6, 9, 12, 16, 17, 197. 

meat of, 190. 

Peter's, 17. 

Soemmerring's, 17. 

Thomson's or " tommy," 2, 6, 9, 
17, 128, 189. 

Waller's, 16, 17. 
Geese, wild, 9, 243. 
Gelder, Mr. Herman, experience of, 

with rhino, 149. 
German East Africa, i, 74, 104, 133, 

153, 154, 174- 
Giant bustard, 239. 



358 



INDEX 



Giraffe, 2, 7, g, 12, 15. 

characteristics of, habits of, size of, 
etc., 75-77, 80, 82-83, 86. 

combat between lion and, 80. 

habitat of, 66-67. 

hunting of, 'JJ, 83. 

lack of voice in, yj. 

peculiar gait of, 76. 

two species of, 85. 
Gnu, white bearded, 39, 167. 
Gojito Mountains, 62. 
Government officials, commendation 

of, 272. 
Guas Ngishu Plateau, 15, "JT, 86. 

climate of, 10. 
Guaso Narok, 7, 9, 135. 

eland hunting on, 159. 

swamp on, 8. 
Guaso Nyaro, 7, 135, 177. 
Guinea fowl, 9, 242. 

H 
Hartebeest, 2, 4, 6, 9, 10, 11, 35. 

characteristics of, 192. 

Cook's (Coke's), 6, 9, 16, 17. 

diminishing numbers of, 197. 

first specimen of, I93#- 

food of, 196. 

hated by settlers and hunters, 195. 

Jackson's, 9, 16, 17. 

meat of, 196. 

Neuman's, 15, 16. 

size of, habits of, etc., 194, 197. 

speed of, 195. 

where found, 193. 
Headman of safari, 28. 
Heron, 124. 
Hippopotamus, 6, 8, 9, 12, 16. 

characteristics of, habits of, etc., 
87-90, 91, 94, lOI. 

destructiveness of, loi. 

first experience with, 90. 

geological distribution of, 87. 

habitat of, 87. 

method of escape of, from hunters, 
89. 



Hippopotamus, names of, 88. 

photographing, 96. 

shooting, 97^. 

size of, 88, loi. 

two species of, 87. 

white, 88. 
Hornbill, 244. 
Hunting grounds, 2, 12. 
Hyenas, 9, 12. 

description of, habits of, etc., 212- 

215- 

howl of pack of, 216. 

increase in regular hunting grounds 

of, 215. 
man-eating, 213, 215. 
ravenous appetite of, 213. 
spotted, 212. 
striped, 211. 

I 

Iguana, 234. 
Impalla, 6, 12, 16, 17. 

flesh of, 183. 

habits of, 181-183. 

size of, color of, etc., 180. 
Ito, Marquis, testimony of, 269. 



Jackal, 9. 

Johnston, Sir Harry, address of, to 
Basogas, 271. 
government report of, 270. 

K 
Kanga, 242. 
Kedong Valley (southern), 8. 

encounter with rhinos in, 141. 
Kenia, Mt., 6, 35, 55, 201, 220, 223, 
301. 
hunting buffalo on, 109. 
Kenia-Laikipia region, 154. 
game in, 9. 



length of, 5. 
return route 

8-9. 
route to, 6. 
tour of, 5. 



from Rumuruti to. 



359 



INDEX 



Kericho, 12. 
Kijabe, 11. 

hunting near, 140, 
Kikuju, homes of, 251. 

native tribe of, 117, 157, 251. 

ornaments of, 253. 

polygamy among, 251. 

wars with Masai and, 253. 

weapons of, 252. 
Kilimanjaro, Mt., 12, 188. 
Kilima-Njaro, 218. 
Kisii country, 12, 66. 
Kisumu, 12. 

Ki-Swahili language, adjectives in, 
309. 
comparison of, 322. 

conditional sentences in, 318. 

expression of time in, 321. 

extent of use of, 307. 

forms of greeting in, 328, 329. 

interrogatives in, 310, 320. 

narrative tense in, 325. 

numerals in, 320, 322. 

objective prefix in, 317. 

passive form of verb in, 325. 

personal and possessive pronouns 
in, 320. 

personal prefixes in, 310. 

plurals in, 312. 

possessive case in, 312. 

prepositions in, 326. 

pronunciation of, 308. 

reciprocal form of verb in, 330. 

tense prefixes in, 310, 312. 

usefulness of, 20. 
Kiu station, 175. 
Kivi rondo, 260. 
Kivu Lake, 68. 
Klipspringer, 17. 
Kob, Thomas's, 16. 
Kolb, Dr., 146. 
Koma Rock, 82. 
Kongoni, 194. 
Kudu (greater), 8, 15, 16. 

habitat of, 173. 

hunting, 175. 



Kudu, size of, habits of, etc., 174. 
Kudu (lesser), 4. 



Laikipia Plateau, 5, 7, 8, 27, 83, 131, 

138, 141, 159, 178, 187, 202, 242. 
Lake Baringo, 8, 124, 237. 
Lake Elmenteita, 206, 214, 240. 
Lake Hannington, 185, 193, 237 
Lake Naivasha, 2. 
Lake Nakuru, 208. 

game preserve for hippos, 94. 
Lake OI-Bolossat, 9. 
Lake Rudolph, 201. 
Lake Tanganyika, 149. 
Lang, Mr. Herbert, 25, 65, 66, 78, 234, 

242. 
Lawrence, Lord John, testimonial, 

268. 
Leopards, 6, 9, 12. 

black, 114. 

habitat of, 114. 

habits of, 116. 

hunting, 122. 

man-eating, 116. 

trapped, danger from, 119. 

traps for, 118, 119. 
Liberian or pygmy hippo, 87. 
Licenses, 14. 

cost of, 23. 
Li Hung Chang, testimonial of, 269. 
Limpompo River, 160, 173. 
Lions, 2, 6, 9, 10, II, 197. 

cowardice of, 30, 44, 45. 

dangers of hunting of, overesti- 
mated, 43, 44. 

description of, 30. 

encounters with, 36, 39, 45^, 49. 

fight between buffalo and, ^3. 

first encounter with, 49. 

food of, 33, 169, 205. 

habitat of, 32. 

habits of, 33, 34, 41, 51, 169. 

hun'mg for, along watercourses, 
40. 
on horseback, 36-38, 39-40. 



360 



INDEX 



Lions, man-eating, 41, 47. 

manes of, 41. 

native hunting of, 50. 

roaring of, 45. 

size and weight of, 31. 
Lizards, 235. 

Loita Plains, 8, 10, 11-12, 36, 45, 154, 
168. 

M 

Malarial fever, 3, 12. 
Marabout, 17. 
Masai, 7, 8. 

character of, 255. 

El-Moran, 258#. 
. homes of, 257. 

occupation of, 257. 

Semetic origin of, 256. 
Matchakos, i. 

Matchakos native reserve, 15. 
Mau Escarpment, 2, 11, 232. 
Maungu, TJ. 
Mesopotamia, 2fl. 

Missions, adverse criticism of, rea- 
sons for, 264#, 271. 

great need of, 263. 

" mission boys " and, 273. 

opinion of officials about, 273. 

testimonials of prominent men 
about, 266#. 
Monkeys, 6, 217. 
Morrison, Mr., adventure of, with 

buflfalo, 112. • 

Mosquitos, 2, 12. 
Mt. Kenia, 201, 220, 223, 301. 
Mozambique, British Consul at, tes- 
timonial of, 269. 
Music, native, 167. 
McKinley, President, testimonial of, 

266. 
McMillan, Mr. W., 115. 

N 
Nairobi, 2. 
Naivasha Plateau, 9. 
leopard hunting on, 120. 



Nakuru, 9. 
Natives, 26, 245. 

character of, 247, 250, 251, 256, 260, 
262. 

dress of, 246, 247, 249, 250, 253. 

generally poor trackers, 58. 

homes of, 246, 249, 251, 254, 257. 

occupations of, 248, 249, 250, 257, 
259, 260. 

ornaments of, 247, 253. 

weapons of, 250, 252, 259. 
Northern Game Reserve, 18-19. 
Nyando Valley, 193. 
Nyssaland, 153, 154, 166. 

O 

01-Bolossat, Lake, 9. 
Orange Free State, 32. 
Orbi, 17. 
Oryx, 7, 183. 

characteristics of, 184. 

description of, 184. 

habitat of, 184. 

habits of, 185. 

hunting of, 185. 
Oryx beisa, 6, 9, 16, 17. 
Oryx call Otis, 16, 188. 
Ostrich, 241. 

nest of, found, 242. 

size of egg of, 242. 
Outfit: clothing, 291. 

firearms, 294j^. 

provisions, 290. 

tents, 288#, 293. 

utensils, etc., 293. 
Owls, 16. 
Ox wagons, 11. 



Paa, 17. 

Palla. See Impalla. 
Panther, 114. 

Partington, Mr. H. B., 272. 
Partridge, 9. 

Percival, Mr., experience of, with 
rhino, 148. 



361 



INDEX 



Peters, Dr. Carl, 44, 73. 
Photography, difficulty of photo- 
graphing wild animals, 275. 
outfit for, 279/F. 
Polygamy, 248, 250, 251, 254, 258. 
Porters, 24, 26. 
Portuguese, East Africa, 104, 112, 

153- 
Posho, 24. 
Puff adder, appearance of, 227. 

deadly bite of, 228. 

method of striking of, 228. 

photographing, 229^. 

Uganda, 228. 
Python, characteristics of, 230. 

distribution of, 230. 

first encounter with, 

habits of, 231. 



232. 



Quail, 243. 



Q 



R 



Rainfall, 2. 

Reed buck, 12, 17. 

Reserves, game, 15, 17-20. 

Rhinoceros, 2, 6, 7, 9, 11, 16, 27, 197. 

black, habits of, 131. 

courage and ferocity of, 143, 147, 
148. 

curious horns of, 131, 132. 

first encounter with, 143. 

five species of, 130. 

good eyesight of, 136, 139. 

great strength of, 136. 

protection against, 150. 

scent of, 140. 

white, 130. 

Rifles, Express (.577), 60, 67, 

145, 148. 

Mannlicher (6.5 m.m.), 67, 120, 
170, 190, 232. 

Mauser (11 m.m.), 38, 61, 163, 237. 

Winchester (.50), 49. 

Winchester (.405), 78, 157, 207, 
233. 240. 



79, 



Rift Valley, 9, 15, 193, 204, 208, 224. 
Rinderpest, 104, 257. 
Ringler, Mr. G., TZ- 
Roan antelope, 12, 16. 

description of, 164. 

habitat of, 160. 

habits of, 164. 

hunting, 161. 
Roosevelt, Colonel, 69, 94, 115, 126, 
132. 

address to Camp-Fire Club by, 299. 

advice to hunters by, 304. 

experience of, with hippo, 92. 

testimony of, 266. 
Roosevelt, Kermit, 166. 
Routes of travel, hints on, 298. 
Rufijii River, 92. 
Rumuruti, 8. 
Ruwenzori Mountains, 68. 



Sable antelope, i, 16. 

appearance and size of, 165. 

characteristics of, 166. 

habitat of, 165. 
Safari, 20. 

day's march of, 26. 

expense of, 21-23. 

food supplies for, 24. 

outfitting of, 21. 

porters of, 26. 
Salutation, native form of, 328, 329. 
Sambtiru country, Tj. 
Schillings, Mr. C, 147. 
Schmidt, Mr. C. E., experience of, 

with hippo, 92. 
Scorpions, 235. 
Seasons, 13. 
Selous, Mr. F. C, 10, 31, 112, 167, 

173- 
experience of, with elephant, 68, 70. 
Seringetti Plains, 12, yj. 
Serval, 9. 

Shimba Hills, i, 165. 
Shulalongkorn, His Majesty, King 

of Siam, testimony of, 269. 



362 



INDEX 



Sick given to wild beasts, 117, 2 

instance of, 262. 
Sitatunga, 16. 
Sleeping sickness, 12. 
Smith, Mr., experience of, 

wounded lion, 43. 
Snakes, 234. 
Snipe, 243. 

Somaliland, 174, 184, 201, 211. 
Sondo River, hunting hippos on, 
Sotik Plains, 8, 10, 35, 36, 43, 
154, 216. 

hunting cheetahs on, 126. 

hunting eland on, 157. 

hunting gnu on, 170. 

tour of, 11-12. 
South Africa, 32, 104, 113, 153, 

160, 166, 181, 184, 201. 
Southern Game Reserve, 17, "JT. 
Spoor, 58, 158. 
Steinbuck, 17. 
Suni, 17. 
Swahili, characteristics of, 245. 

character of, 247. 

coast tribe of, 245. 

customs of, 246-248. 

dress of, 247. 

houses of, 256. 

language of. See Ki-Swahili. 

marriage customs of, 248^. 

method of producing tembo 
by, 248. 

occupation of, 248. 



Tana River, 6, 154, 237. 

Taxidermy, hints on, 283^. 

Tembo, 248. 

Tick bird, 134. 

Ticks, 3, 134. 

Thompson, Sir Augustus Rivers, 

timonial of, 268. 
Topi, 12, 16, 17, 127. 
Tracking, elephant, 56-59. 

giraffe, 82-83. 
Trade goods, 7. 



15. 



with 



94- 
132, 



154, 



used 



tes- 



Tragelphus tiaderi, 180. 
Trap, leopard, 118. 
Tsetse fly, 161. 

U 

Uganda, hippos and buffaloes banned 

in, 93, III. 
Uganda Railroad, i, 47, 48, 77, 175, 

160, 188. 



Van Riebeck, 87. 
Victoria Nyanza, 2, 161. 

climate near, 12. 
Voi, I. 
Volcanoes, extinct : Longonot and 

Suswa, 208. 
Vulture, 16. 

w 

Wakamba, goat-skin clothing of, 250. 

native tribe of, 250. 
Wallace, General Lew, testimonial of, 

268. 
Wandorobo, jungle people, 22- 

manner of life of, 259. 
Wanika, occupation of, customs of, 

etc., 249. 
War dances, 29. 

Warren, General Sir Charles, testi- 
monial of, 268. 
Wart hog, 9, 12. 

appearance of, habits of, etc., 224^. 
Wateita, 249. 

homes of, 250. 
Water buck, 6, 9, 16. 

description of, 176. 

habits of, 177. 

new subspecies of, discovered, 177. 
Wild ducks, 243. 
Wild dogs, 6. 
Wild geese, 9. 
Wildebeest or gnu, 6, 10, 11, 16, 17, 

197. 
description of, 167. 



363 



INDEX 



Wildebeest or gnu, habits and char- 
acteristics of, i68, 171. 
hunting of, 169. 
vitahty of, 169. 
where found, 167. 
Women, dress of, 246, 249, 250, 260. 
position and rights of, 251, 254_^, 
263. 



Zambesi River, 68. 
Zebra, 2, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 16, 
200. 



197, 



Zebra, attempts at domestication of, 
209. 

Grevey's and Burchell's differ- 
ences in size of, color of, etc., 
201. 

habits of, 203#. 

hunting of, 206. 

mountain, 201. 

speed of, 206. 

stampede of, 208. 

voice of, 203. 

where found, 202. 



(1) 



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